What Did You Do In The Garage Today?

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We need a thread for all those little things we do that don't get their own thread. Pictures are good but not necessary.
 
Got in the truck, backed it out into the driveway, closed the door. Came back later, opened the door, pulled inside and shut it off...... OH! I did look at the 6 leaves on the floor but decided to leave them for another project.... Sorry, no pics..
 
Yesterday, I tore down my Husqvarna 359 saw for several reasons. It's a GREAT saw with lots of power but it has developed a couple of issues.

The original 20" bar is worn out. Time for a new one. Going with a 24" Husky bar and ordered 3 Oregon 3/8-.050 (84link) full chisel chains for the 24" bar. This has not arrived yet.

One thing that bugs me was that if you leave it sitting, a puddle of bar lube would form under it. I found a post online somewhere that addresses this issue. It seems the rubber tube that feeds the little oil pump can shrink a little and cause this lube on the ground problem. The solution is to remove the bar, clutch, pump gear and pump to access this tube.

This video show a little of the process. He used super glue and a new tube, but I read of many folks reusing the tube with RTV.



[video=youtube;2Okolp2kKrQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Okolp2kKrQ[/video]




I began by removing the bar and chain, then I removed the spark plug and rotated the engine until the piston was down. I stuffed some rope in the cylinder and rotated the engine clockwise until it stopped. Then I used two adjustable wrenches to remove the clutch, it just turns off once loosened.

Then the assorted other stuff is just removed to get to the leaky tube. Once I had it out, I cleaned it well with brake cleaner and cleaned the hole that it sits in in the oil tank. I then used some black ultra RTV on the connection making sure no excess goes into the tank, and put it all back together (except the bar/chain).

While I had it on the bench, I decided to open up the muffler a bit. These Etech saws have a catalytic converter like a car, I kid you not.... These cats will cause the saws to get very hot under hard extended use. May articles online address this by cutting a 3/4" hole in the side of the muffler before the cat part, and making a little deflector just like the factory exit. It was really easy and after tuning the saw it is said it will gain around a 1000 rpm and more torque everywhere. Many report it feels like a complete animal, we will see....it already has tons of power but with the new longer bar it's a good mod.

Here is a good set of pics/description on the muffler mod. I used sheetmetal to make my deflector instead of this guys pipe but same same. I used just a little hi-temp RTV under my deflector and steel rivets to attach it to the muffler. I cannot wait to get the new bar on it and here this opened up exhaust.
 
Put more ammo that I got yesterday on my gun shelves (where I keep parts and ammo, pics of garage to come)
 
Worked on my Yamaha Champ 100. Needed a tire fix, gas tank gasket, and a battery charge. I wish those little batteries lasted longer
 
I put new LED headlight bulbs, LED position (marker) light bulbs and new 6k lumen LED driving lights on my motorcycle. I tried posting pictures but it keeps telling me that the file is too big.
 
Started cleaning up my D60/14 bolt axles. D60 will be getting hi-steer arms and crossover steering and the 14 will be converted to disk brakes before they go under my K5
 
Does it have to be personal projects or can it paying gigs?

If it's paying gigs I tore down a Ford 9" to find out why it was making noise. I found it to be full of dirt and the gear not set up properly. Destroyed itself in less then 100 miles.
 
Apparently I was good this year...really good, Santa was extra nice to me.
So tonight I spent time placing my HUGE tool chest in the right spot and starting to fill it with the mechanics tool kit that was also a Christmas gift.
I spent so much time organizing the chest, getting everything how I wanted, making a list of more I needed for when I am out tomorrow.

I was in the garage piddling...man it rules.
 
spittinfire;n26191 said:
Does it have to be personal projects or can it paying gigs?

If it's paying gigs I tore down a Ford 9" to find out why it was making noise. I found it to be full of dirt and the gear not set up properly. Destroyed itself in less then 100 miles.

Pics? Just curious what it looked like. ....

DS
 
DirtySCREW;n27278 said:
Pics? Just curious what it looked like. ....

DS

I don't have any pictures. It basically looked like every other 9" except when you pulled it apart the preload everywhere was on the tight side but acceptable. When you looked at the bearings and races you could see wear that was not caused by preload but by dirt. These were all new parts when assembled before so I'm guessing they never washed the new case and all the dirt from casting got washed through the bearings. So it got new bearings, seal and ring and pinion.
The pattern on the gear wasn't horrible but sometimes gears just make noise, even when set up properly. Most of the time it's human error but sometimes it's just the gear.
 
Lawless;n24259 said:
Yesterday, I tore down my Husqvarna 359 saw for several reasons. It's a GREAT saw with lots of power but it has developed a couple of issues.

The original 20" bar is worn out. Time for a new one. Going with a 24" Husky bar and ordered 3 Oregon 3/8-.050 (84link) full chisel chains for the 24" bar. This has not arrived yet.

One thing that bugs me was that if you leave it sitting, a puddle of bar lube would form under it. I found a post online somewhere that addresses this issue. It seems the rubber tube that feeds the little oil pump can shrink a little and cause this lube on the ground problem. The solution is to remove the bar, clutch, pump gear and pump to access this tube.

This video show a little of the process. He used super glue and a new tube, but I read of many folks reusing the tube with RTV.



[video=youtube;2Okolp2kKrQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Okolp2kKrQ[/video]




I began by removing the bar and chain, then I removed the spark plug and rotated the engine until the piston was down. I stuffed some rope in the cylinder and rotated the engine clockwise until it stopped. Then I used two adjustable wrenches to remove the clutch, it just turns off once loosened.

Then the assorted other stuff is just removed to get to the leaky tube. Once I had it out, I cleaned it well with brake cleaner and cleaned the hole that it sits in in the oil tank. I then used some black ultra RTV on the connection making sure no excess goes into the tank, and put it all back together (except the bar/chain).

While I had it on the bench, I decided to open up the muffler a bit. These Etech saws have a catalytic converter like a car, I kid you not.... These cats will cause the saws to get very hot under hard extended use. May articles online address this by cutting a 3/4" hole in the side of the muffler before the cat part, and making a little deflector just like the factory exit. It was really easy and after tuning the saw it is said it will gain around a 1000 rpm and more torque everywhere. Many report it feels like a complete animal, we will see....it already has tons of power but with the new longer bar it's a good mod.

Here is a good set of pics/description on the muffler mod. I used sheetmetal to make my deflector instead of this guys pipe but same same. I used just a little hi-temp RTV under my deflector and steel rivets to attach it to the muffler. I cannot wait to get the new bar on it and here this opened up exhaust.

I put the new bar and chain on the 359 this afternoon and tuned the carb due to the new ported muffler.
Man it sounds good! It looks like an absolute beast with the 24" bar. Will snap a pic tomorrow.
 
Both axles and motor mounts in a toyota Seiena. Soldered 3 new stepper motors in a tahoe and traced a electrical drain to the security system in a Audi. Then the boss let me leave early!
 
Lawless;n32709 said:
I put the new bar and chain on the 359 this afternoon and tuned the carb due to the new ported muffler.
Man it sounds good! It looks like an absolute beast with the 24" bar. Will snap a pic tomorrow.

413057044.jpg
 
I found that my waterpump was seeping on my 7.3 PSD so I got a new lifetime warranty pump from Car Quest and new Gates upper and lower hoses from Oreilly. The upper I bought is the dual alternator model that runs outside the serp belt instead of through it and the lower had to be different too because the new pump came with the curved lower outlet instead of the straight one. I already had bought a new billet thermostat housing and 203* thermostat so I put it all together in one go.

The 203* Tstat is supposed to keep the engine closer to the optimum temp and increase mileage. I will report back if this turns out to be true.

I flushed the old coolant out 3 times to be sure none was left and installed Rotella ELC diesel coolant. This stuff is supposed to last 750K miles. We will see I hope LOL.

It's all back together and that is one thing I can check off the list. Even though this 2002 only has 44K on it, the coolant, waterpump and hoses were all Ford stuff from the day it was born. At 15 years old, it was time to swap these parts out anyway.
 
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Well I have a long list that I need to do to my 2005 F-250 6.0. I got new shock to go all around, need to change oil, got to clean the misc crap out of the bed that gets up under the tool box, need to rotate tires, and just clean out the inside. I hope to get to it next week.

Or not.
 
Pad slapped a Sti, Mounted 2 tires and aligned a work van, two fan clutch jobs (95 cherokee and 06 Ram 2500) Pad slapped a charger that probably could've got me high if i'd sat in it long enough....dude wouldn't buy rotors despite the inside of one being ground half down....screw it. his problem. Tore down a Hyundai with a broken timing belt. and finally fired up an El Camino we've been going through. Open header cam break-in's for the win.
 
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Going riding tomorrow so I went over the bike one last time.
-lubed up the chain
-reinstalled the air filter
-released pressure in forks
-and made sure and removed the exhaust plug :)

Then tomorrow, I get to come back and wash it up...it'll be a muddy day at the track so the pressure washer is going to get a workout.
 
I'll be picking up an axle and converting the rig to 4wd. Lockers are in the plans as well. These things go nowhere in the snow out here.
 
Diablos said:
I'll be picking up an axle and converting the rig to 4wd. Lockers are in the plans as well. These things go nowhere in the snow out here.
What rig you converting brother? Your truck is already 4x4 aint it?
 
I welded up a few little things and started the tractor and let it run a little.
 


Rusty took us everywhere we wanted to go during the "Great Snow" last week. I did start hearing that dreaded chirping sound of a ujoint going out. Was just hoping it was not in the front shaft or axle.

Checked it out yesterday and thank goodness all up front were still solid and no slop or signs of "rust dust" coming out of them. The main driveshaft (transmission to rear end). Those were the ones with slop and one so bad you could see the needle brgs were gone.

Took it apart and I'd almost bet they were the originals.....and on a 1975 K15! Had Spicer USA on them and were non grease able.
(Put Spicer ujoints back in it...spicer still made in USA!)

Rusty is back up and running, more smooth than ever!
 
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Diablos said:
I'll be picking up an axle and converting the rig to 4wd. Lockers are in the plans as well. These things go nowhere in the snow out here.
Nope, I'll never need that. Famous last words...
 
mj1angier said:
Well I have a long list that I need to do to my 2005 F-250 6.0. I got new shock to go all around, need to change oil, got to clean the misc crap out of the bed that gets up under the tool box, need to rotate tires, and just clean out the inside. I hope to get to it next week.

Or not.
I bought my tires at sams club, let them rotate those heavy sob's
 
I completed the changeover to full LED lights on my bike. I put Evitek G6 3200/4800 lumen headlight bulbs. Changed the turn signal lenses from stock amber to clear and added 120 chip amber/white switchback bulbs and have 5" 60 Watt driving lights under the mirrors.
 

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I started a mechanical restoration on a 1941 Willys MB today for a customer. I have been turning wrenches for about 29 years now and this old jeep is teaching this old dog some new tricks. This is going to be a fun one I will post some pics monday.
 

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I did the Harpoon Mod on my 2002 F250. This mod is outlined here. It allows the tank to be filled completely and in my case added around 5 gallons of capacity without the spitting back and air problems I had before. I filled up today and it held over 33 gallons and was not completely empty although it was on E. Very nice!

 
Nothing this weekend because I was at Black Mountain OHV park. But now the bug has bitten me worse than before and I am pricing a lift and Magnum underdrive unit for my K5. I do have a set of spring bushings and new body mounts for her and the plan is to install them next weekend, after taking my youngun's shooting
 
Repaired a rusted frame on a friend's YJ. Plated with 1/8 steel. It was around where the steering box mounts so it was a PITA.
 
I ran into a interesting one today. Customer brought their car in complaining that the parking, tail and dash lights would not cut off. This was a 2002 Honda civic with a 1.7l and auto trans. I will shorten this story because it took a while to figure out. Usually people bring their cars in because something doesn't work. This one was different because it would not quit working. I started by unplugging the switch to check it and with the switch unplugged the lights where still on. With the switch unplugged the lights where still on this should not have been possible according to the wiring diagram unless the multiplex control unit was bad. I ran all the tests on the unit and it tested fine. While the unit and the switch where unplugged the lights continued to burn. Ok so this should be impossible unless a wiring harness melted or wore through and shorted the wires to a power source so I inspected the wiring harness and found no issues. I was really scratching my head at this point so I decided to pull the fuses to anything that could feed the circuit. I pulled them and the lights still would not go out. This made no sense what so ever. Wiring is my thing and this was kicking my but so I though I had to have missed something. So I started rechecking the harness for damage as this was the only thing that made sense to cause this. I told myself I ws going to touch every inch of the harness looking for melted or chaffed wiring, I got into the dash and followed it with my fingers till I couldn't reach it any more and had to start taking the dash apart. I pulled out the instrument cluster and then went on to the climate control and the radio. When I pulled the radio I though I heard something rattle inside it so I shook it and heard it again. I looked in it with a flash light and there sat a dime laying across the circuit board right where the wiring harness plugs in. The dime was shorting the radio memory power back into the lighting circuit and keeping the light on. Turns out the peoples kid was feeding the cd player change. God I am glad I do not have kids!
 
Thanks for sharing that Short Fuse. I like to turn my own wrenches as much as possible but I have a lot of respect for what the professional have to know how to do. I do have one question, how do you bill out a job like that? I imagine there isn't a time table for removing a dime on a circuit board.
 
Thanks for sharing that Short Fuse. I like to turn my own wrenches as much as possible but I have a lot of respect for what the professional have to know how to do. I do have one question, how do you bill out a job like that? I imagine there isn't a time table for removing a dime on a circuit board.
It took a lot longer than normal to find that and luck played a role in it. On most jobs there is a labor guide that is used by most shops that lists a time each job is supposed to take. That is normally what the customer is billed. Electrical and diagnostics are different because so many different unexpected things like that can play in to it. Most jobs go as planned but there are jobs we lose on. Some jobs we beat the time and make a little more money and some we go over and lose some. Getting to know your tech and the shop can work out for you in the long run as people tend to get better deals if they are good customers or get worse ones if they are a pain in the ass. It really depends on the shop. I have worked for ones that would charge for every minute it took and others that try to make it fair for everyone and will take a loss on some wierd things like that. A good relationship with your local shop will pay off in the end as they know your cars history and yours. Friends always get treated better than strangers. It comes down to a bunch of different things if the tech can't figure out something simple that is common the shop loses. If the customer installs their own radio and burns the harness up it will probably cost more as that is purely on the customer and not the shop or it's employees skill level. We just try and keep it fair for both sides. The tech doesn't control how much your bill is, that is the owner or the service writer. Get to know them it will serve you well. I have customers that come and say Hi and others that do not give me the time of day. If I know you are a regular I might just fix a small thing that does not take long and not put it on your ticket. If you give me the how much longer look and act like I am cheating you then I will not go out of my way for you.
 
2 new batteries for the PowerStroke. Mine were getting weaker and weaker but they were 6 years old.

Got them from The Battery Shop in Clayton (really Wilson's Mills). These are Exide batteries that sat too long on the shelf and are taken back to Exide and ran on their high tech equipment to be charged and tested. The labels are stripped off and they are sold as no name.

The one in my tractor is from there and has been flawless. These batteries are $39.95 (with core) so I got two 875 amp group 65 batteries for $85.30 otd.

She spins so fast now it may break an engine mount ;)

The Battery Shop
142 Uzzle Industrial Dr.
Clayton NC 27520
919-934-2233
 
Organized a paint can full of nuts and bolts etc.
No, there wasnt paint in it when the hardware was lol
 
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