Finished up the muffler on my pea shooter today

wired

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Turned out pretty good

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Chinese Stainless steel "muzzle brake " turned down to fit in a 1" tube with an equally Chinese $9 solvent trap tube and ends. The gun is one that I had cut and threaded 1/2- 20 over 20 years ago . The rear cap is FIRMLY held on by a 1/2-20 to 1/2-28 adapter. Its built like a tank.

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It has an OEM front sight bonded to the tube with the tube clocked into position its 12 oclock straight up. I still need to make a tool to unscrew the core from the front. Once that gets done I can loctite the rear end cap in place with the front sight where it needs to be and call it a day.

I bought that gun back in '98 and it will run on just about anything. I run 45 grain CCI subs mostly and it cycle on those no problem with or without the can.
 
It has an OEM front sight bonded to the tube with the tube clocked into position its 12 oclock straight up. I still need to make a tool to unscrew the core from the front. Once that gets done I can loctite the rear end cap in place with the front sight where it needs to be and call it a day.

I bought that gun back in '98 and it will run on just about anything. I run 45 grain CCI subs mostly and it cycle on those no problem with or without the can.

No need for for subs in mine.
It will keep Federal bulk pack subsonic with the short bbl.
I prefer CCI standard velocity. It's movie quiet.
 
@wired is even quieter with shorter barrel or are you just looking to shorten the oal? I’ve often seen these super short marks and always wondered.
 
The CCI 45 grain "quiet" are really quiteer than any other .22LR Ive tried. Even standard velocity and my second favorite the Wincheser X subsonic. And yeah, cutting the barrel length down just helps with the OAL. You arent trying to get max velocity any more so the barrel length doesnt matter. 800-950 FPS is just fine.

My barrel isnt actually that short . It extends to the base of the first baffle in tht silencer core. almost 3 inches. Its cut like that for a silencer I built like 25 years ago that was an old school tube and sleeve packing type silencer that really was movie quiet but tht packing doesnt last long. 20 shots and it was starting to go and after 50 you had to replace the packing.

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I do think that before I am finished with this one I am going to cut out some of those baffles to give more interior volume.
 
I do think that before I am finished with this one I am going to cut out some of those baffles to give more interior volume.
I think I mentioned in another thread you could machine the internals to half their thickness and be just fine.

Another option would be to have half-baffles, similar to the GMT-300BLK:

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If you cut off the red sections, it would still leave four “scoops” to disrupt the air flow, but gain some volume:

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You could even consider removing the bottom portion of the other four. Cut ~1/3 of the baffle off, leaving eight alternating scoops shaped like a U at the bore.
 
That's what I was thinking. Thinning would be a real chore but removing a few or cutting in half would be easy.
 
Ive got two more to do . One is a 55 model mark I which I hate to cut up ...but I will. The other is a new stainless Mark 4 which I cant wait to cut up. Both will have tensioned non rotating tube suppressors.
 
Ive got two more to do . One is a 55 model mark I which I hate to cut up ...but I will. The other is a new stainless Mark 4 which I cant wait to cut up. Both will have tensioned non rotating tube suppressors.


How are you planning to accomplish the tensioning and stationary tube?
 
Its pretty simple. Machine a step on the original barrel and a step on the core insert. Machine the barrel with threads on the end and have the tube between the two. Then machine the barrel for threads a few inches long with a couple of ports machined with a flat end mill. On the bottom of the recessed area ahead of the barrel step cut a hole for a 1/8" plug that extends out 1/16" . Cut a 1/8" flat inside the the tube with a Dumont tool 1/16" deep . That will permanently index the tube to the barrel . Then install the front sight. Screw the core insert in to compress the tube between the core insert. Not redeveloping the wheel here.

Pretty common these days. This is a Sitarrio done the same way..

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It is. Its going to take a bit though as I dont have the gun I am using in my hands yet. Picked up a stainless Ruger Competition Mark 2 that I will be chopping up for an integral and I'm also going to do a Model H-A High standard with a blued silencer. That project is a little more involved because I am changing barrels so I dont maul the original but I do have an original NOS model B barrel that will sub in for the H-A barrel on the gun now ( Mumbo Jumbo ) . They only made a thousand H-A's . There is also an H-D Military in the works but maybe not til the end of the year.I have to find a replacement barrel for it too. The Ruger will be here in a few weeks.
 
i was thinking a high standard with the push button take down would make a nice host.
 
i was thinking a high standard with the push button take down would make a nice host.

I have a couple that I want to do sometime in the future. One is a G-380 which is HS's only centerfire gun and its only hammer model takedown and its a gun that was originally intended to be a OSS suppressed firearm but the war ended and the contract was cancelled so HS sold them as 5.5" 380's and they flopped. . Id prefer to find a spare factory barrel to chop even though mine is by no mean collector grade. Relatively rare gun but not that rare. Barrels are just hard to find. I also have a supermatic trophy that is going to get an integral at some point.
 
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I will be seeing a friend with a small collection of HS in a couple weeks, will see if he has any extra barrels.
 
Hey Mike...can you cut me one like this? :D

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