Building ARs is FUN! (for the new folks)

A new AR is born. 😅

Not quite as it lacks optics. The poor thing can’t see. 😉 Nice build.

baltimoreed said:

Not quite as it lacks optics. The poor thing can’t see. 😉 Nice build.

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To be delivered in 2 days…

I think she’s ready for her debut at the family farm tomorrow. Plenty of room to dial her in and stretch her out.

Now she can see, up close and far away! I used offset iron on my build too.

Love all the content, ( NOOB here)This will be my first build of an AR. I am struggling with which barrel manufacturers to choose from. I am going to do a 16" 223 wylde and which BCG to go along with it.
Thank you all for the awesome insight on builds and parts.

Only barrel I that I didn't really like was a Olympic 16" HBAR 1:9. My only other 16" was a PSA which is a decent barrel. However only .223 Wlyde barrels I've used were Green River Mountain Barrels. All same 18" SS but with different twists 1:14, 1:6 and 1:5. Each a tack driver. All my BCGs are Mil Spec ie Colt, FN and Toolcraft.

I hope you guys don’t mind if I revive a slightly old thread… I am just about to buy my first AR and I am wondering whether I should buy a complete one or build one. Is there any advantage to building other than the fun of it?

The reason I’m asking is because I have plenty of mechanical experience, so much so that I really don’t enjoy building things anymore. So I have no desire to do it just for the fun of it. On the other hand, I don’t mind building it if there is and advantage, like it’s cheaper or somehow keeps me off the ATF radar.

Getting exactly what you want doesn’t apply to me right now because I really don’t know enough to know what I want. So far I’ve mainly been looking at Aero Precision and Palmetto State Armory.

Should I build or just buy one complete?

foscoe944 said:

I hope you guys don’t mind if I revive a slightly old thread… I am just about to buy my first AR and I am wondering whether I should buy a complete one or build one. Is there any advantage to building other than the fun of it?

The reason I’m asking is because I have plenty of mechanical experience, so much so that I really don’t enjoy building things anymore. So I have no desire to do it just for the fun of it. On the other hand, I don’t mind building it if there is and advantage, like it’s cheaper or somehow keeps me off the ATF radar.

Getting exactly what you want doesn’t apply to me right now because I really don’t know enough to know what I want. So far I’ve mainly been looking at Aero Precision and Palmetto State Armory.

Should I build or just buy one complete?

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Just build it man! Part of it is for the fun, but part of it is knowing exactly how it works. The getting exactly what you want and learning what that is comes with it too.
Buy a blank lower then start reading about the different triggers and then order one of those and just keep going.
I gave up doing a lot of mechanical stuff too. Used to do my own oil changes, brakes, etc. I got to a point where I like the convenience of paying someone else to do it. This is different.

@foscoe944

To me one of the biggest advantages of building is familiarity with the platform. Best way to really know it inside and out is to build one.

Second is to get it the way you want it. A lot of us tinker. We end up replacing so much that we have most of a second gun. Then a third and fourth... IF you knew what you wanted you could save a lot by getting the parts you really want the first time. However the process of building is how you find out what you want for a lot of us.

If you don't really want to have to build one just buy one that looks cool and enjoy it. I personally would choose aero over PSA but I have had really good luck with both.

If by "staying off the radar" you mean not doing a 4473, that's a separate question from build vs. buy. You could buy either a complete AR or a bare receiver private sale, and likewise when filling out a 4473.

Assuming the same quality of parts for an equal comparison, with enough effort it's possible to save money by building, but it won't be a big difference unless you get seriously lucky or make a compromise somewhere.

It sounds to me like you might be better off buying a complete gun and branching out from there. You can always choose to replace parts on it later on, or sell the whole thing and upgrade, or whatever. You could do a lot worse than an Aero Precision or a PSA premium grade rifle.

Do your homework, handle other shooter’s ARs, shoot others ARs, try to figure out your build before you start otherwise you’ll waste a lot of money buying parts, trying stuff only to find that you don’t like the look or the feel. I’ve built 4, working on a 5th, and they’re all different looking, Two are .22s and three are .45s. One of the .22s started out as a .300 blkout. Found out that I didn't like .300 Blkout. Love the AR platform in .22 and .45acp. Good luck on whatever you do.

I do end up tinkering with most of my guns and just about everything else because I’m pretty particular and want to get it just right for me. And I don’t doubt I’ll do the same with the AR. I just won’t know what to tinker with until I shoot it for a while.

This is bound to be a dumb question but here goes: are all parts from all manufacturers interchangeable? For example will any companies upper fit any other companies lower? Or if I bought say, a PSA gun and then wanted to change the hand guard, or trigger will any AR hand guard or trigger fit?

Some hand guards are designed to go with their matching upper but milspec lowers will work with milspec uppers. Ive only used a seekins upper and its lower and CNC lowers with dpms and midway stoner uppers with no problems.

Triggers are generally compatible as long as the pins are milspec diameter. Small parts in the upper & lower are pretty much compatible within the milspec realm. The BCG is interchangeable as long as your headspacing is ok (which it almost always will be). There are "commercial" buffer tubes with different dimensions from milspec, which is something to look out for, but not too common anymore.

The vast majority of aftermarket free-float handguards require installation of their own special barrel nut, and may require a lower profile gas block (and obviously won't fit over an A2 sight/gas block). That's a comparatively harder job to do on an AR, so it's easier to buy an upper that already has the type of handguard you want.

Don’t y’all hate it when you find a random detent pin and suddenly have a new rifle…

I was gonna start a new thread but realized this basically covered what I had to say, in that today I built my first lower on an aero m4e1 and love how convenient it is in regards to the bolt catch being screwed in, and also the option to screw in the rear detent. I've typically used psa lowers in the past, but after this build I probably won't go back. And also the built in trigger guard which is also nice. I've lost count to how many lowers I have either built myself or helped new people starting out. But I am sold on aero lowers going forward. Less than an hour to assemble the lower, slap on the upper and test fire 3 rounds. This particular upper came as a kit from PSA with a vortex strike eagle. I've decided to not mount the optic and let the end user decide if they want me to do it, or if they wanna take it somewhere to get it mounted and bore sighted

B00ger said:

Don’t y’all hate it when you find a random detent pin and suddenly have a new rifle…

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Totally. I'm in the process of rebarrelling a gun and changing the handguard. I took stock of my parts and it looks like I may as well build another at this point.

Ya'll have been super helpful! So, let me keep picking your brains.

I'm planning to get one with a 16" barrel, the shortest I can get without it being and SBR. I'm seeing carbine gas systems and mid-length gas systems on 16" barrels. The things I read about this only talk about why mid-length is better. Is there any reason why carbine length is better? If mid-length is so much better, then why do PSA and AP even offer carbine length on 16" barrels?

foscoe944 said:

Ya'll have been super helpful! So, let me keep picking your brains.

I'm planning to get one with a 16" barrel, the shortest I can get without it being and SBR. I'm seeing carbine gas systems and mid-length gas systems on 16" barrels. The things I read about this only talk about why mid-length is better. Is there any reason why carbine length is better? If mid-length is so much better, then why do PSA and AP even offer carbine length on 16" barrels?

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The mid length is a newer design if not mistaken. And you can go shorter than 16 just have to use a brace instead of a stock.

This page gives you a decent explanation on gas systems:

https://danieldefense.com/wire/whats-the-best-gas-system-for-an-ar15

To make a long story short, it's about properly balancing the equation of forces which cycles the action. There are several variables involved and the gas system length is one of them, as is the barrel length. If you don't have enough force, the action short strokes. If you have too much force, you get premature wear or malfunctions.

Mid length is a good compromise that works for most non-SBR barrel lengths, which is why it's popular.

Suppressors change the equation too, if you ever intend to run one.

foscoe944 said:

Ya'll have been super helpful! So, let me keep picking your brains.

I'm planning to get one with a 16" barrel, the shortest I can get without it being and SBR. I'm seeing carbine gas systems and mid-length gas systems on 16" barrels. The things I read about this only talk about why mid-length is better. Is there any reason why carbine length is better? If mid-length is so much better, then why do PSA and AP even offer carbine length on 16" barrels?

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The details might be a little mixed up here, but the carbine gas system was brought about with the introduction of the M4 and a 14.5" barrel. In that configuration, the system is just about right, if not a little gassy in favor of reliability. Maybe it was the CAR that brought about carbine gas, not sure.

Of course civilians wanted to get in on the M4 fun so manufacturers started offering them to genpop, but with the 16" barrel to work around NFA laws. The result was a rifle that was generally over gassed.

Along the way, some people realized that we could move to a gas system that was more optimized for the ubiquitous 16" barrel and the midlength was born.

I believe the carbine gas system on 16" guns sticks around mostly out of tradition and the desire to have an M4gery.

Under, over, or properly gassed has more variables that just system length, say port size for example, but I think the above is generally true.

If your going to get a 16" barrel go with the mid length.

Next thing for you to figure out is if you prefer a free floated handguard or a traditional style with a fixed sight block attached to the barrel.

If you want to run iron sights the FSB is the way to go. It's a good solidly mounted front sight. If you plan on running some kind of optic I would probably go for an upper with a free floated m-lok handguard.

You can always run backup irons on the free floated setup if you want. If you get the FSB type your pretty much locked into that design.

100% agree that if you're going irons only, get a FSB on your barrel and preferably a fixed rear or carry handle.

I think some optics can work nicely with a FSB. Red dots, Eotechs, Acogs, etc. These are two of mine. The tan Aero now wears an ADM mount and a fixed DD rear. Both of those builds are GTG.

Pinky787 said:

The mid length is a newer design if not mistaken. And you can go shorter than 16 just have to use a brace instead of a stock.

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I do want a stock instead of a brace.

C-doodle said:

If your going to get a 16" barrel go with the mid length.

Next thing for you to figure out is if you prefer a free floated handguard or a traditional style with a fixed sight block attached to the barrel.

If you want to run iron sights the FSB is the way to go. It's a good solidly mounted front sight. If you plan on running some kind of optic I would probably go for an upper with a free floated m-lok handguard.

You can always run backup irons on the free floated setup if you want. If you get the FSB type your pretty much locked into that design.

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I want an M-LOK, preferably the same length as the barrel, so no FSB. And I'll put an optic on it. I might have those pop up sights on there just for backup.

I wouldn't rule out adding a suppressor, but that would be down the road. Does a mid length work ok with a suppressor? Would I just need an adjustable gas block?

Sounds to me like you've got a pretty good idea of what your looking for.

16" midlength with m-lok free float tube. Find one with furniture that you like and pick yourself a decent optic. You'll be ready for the range.

You shouldn't NEED an adjustable gas block but if you add a suppressor you may want one. you can always put one on later.

My opinion:

Get a 16" mid length with a 1/8 twist in a lightweight barrel profile.

foscoe944 said:

I hope you guys don’t mind if I revive a slightly old thread… I am just about to buy my first AR and I am wondering whether I should buy a complete one or build one. Is there any advantage to building other than the fun of it?

The reason I’m asking is because I have plenty of mechanical experience, so much so that I really don’t enjoy building things anymore. So I have no desire to do it just for the fun of it. On the other hand, I don’t mind building it if there is and advantage, like it’s cheaper or somehow keeps me off the ATF radar.

Getting exactly what you want doesn’t apply to me right now because I really don’t know enough to know what I want. So far I’ve mainly been looking at Aero Precision and Palmetto State Armory.

Should I build or just buy one complete?

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I think the main benefit (beyond “getting exactly what you want”) is just seeing how it all goes together. Somebody else mentioned familiarity, so pretty much that same thought.

I see you’re in Charlotte. If you wanna put a lower together without having to buy any tools, lemme know. I’ve never actually bought an assembled one.

NKD said:

My opinion:

Get a 16" mid length with a 1/8 twist in a lightweight barrel profile.

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Something like this would ne nice for some trial and error.
Not too expensive and if you don’t like it, take it off, sell, try a different barrel. This would give you a good lesson in assembling/disassembling an upper.

C-doodle said:

Sounds to me like you've got a pretty good idea of what your looking for.

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I didn't when I first posted, but I'm starting to now. It also seems that finding upper and lower kits with what I want is easier than finding one already assembled with what I want.

Nothing wrong with buying an upper and lower separately. Infact there's a good chance you will get a better deal that way.

Do you have a particular budget in mind?

There are some pretty decent deals in the BST here.

My budget is under $1,000 not including an optic. But of course, the more under the budget the better. I think I can build what I want from PSA for right about $600, which is way under budget. My understanding is they make good quality reliable guns so that's what I'm leaning towards. AP and Lead Star Arms are coming around $800-$900 for the same specs.

I did look at what's for sale used here on the forum. Nothing is jumping out at me as the right combination of price and what I want.

That ought to be enough money to get a PSA and have enough left over to upgrade your trigger and charging handle.

I really like the radian raptor charging handle.

My top choices for budget triggers are:
Single stage - CMC 3.5.
Two stage - larue tactical mbt-2s.

Might even have a little left for ammo.

C-doodle said:

That ought to be enough money to get a PSA and have enough left over to upgrade your trigger and charging handle.

I really like the radian raptor charging handle.

My top choices for budget triggers are:
Single stage - CMC 3.5.
Two stage - larue tactical mbt-2s.

Might even have a little left for ammo.

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I’d just buy a PSA kit that has the EPT…or buy an EPT after the fact. Spend the rest on ammo.

foscoe944 said:

I'm planning to get one with a 16" barrel, the shortest I can get without it being and SBR.

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You can get a 14.5 and have the muzzle device pinned/welded. If you really want it as short as possible and non NFA.

Question on lower receiver. Some have a complete trigger guard, some are missing a section, what gives, is it a manufacturing thing, just seems like more parts to need. I will have to check my PSA lower parts kit to see if the missing section is in there before I buy a lower receiver missing this section.
Seems like a violation of the kiss principle.

In the original design, the bottom of the trigger guard can be opened down at one end to allow for thick gloves. Later on, some manufacturers changed that to an integral guard which is just part of the receiver itself. In many cases the integral guard is wider than the original closed guard, as a compromise.

The separate part is cheap and easy to install. But it's up to you which one you prefer.

Chihuahua Floyd said:

Question on lower receiver. Some have a complete trigger guard, some are missing a section, what gives, is it a manufacturing thing, just seems like more parts to need. I will have to check my PSA lower parts kit to see if the missing section is in there before I buy a lower receiver missing this section.
Seems like a violation of the kiss principle.

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Never seen a PSA build kit that didn’t include a trigger guard.

As shackleford stated, its for the winter trigger guard. Most never use it but as a service rifle there are times you're in artic conditions. Also depends if you wear gloves or mittens. Even the enlarge trigger guards aren't big enough for mittens.

CD

ok, with the PSA lower parts kit, upper, BCG and charging handle i bought myself for Christmas and the Anderson lower i bought today at the gun show i believe i have assembled an AR.

only launched one detent and spring, found the spring. Luckily there where three in the kit., but this is offset by the fact that there was no disconnector spring. i used the trigger off of my first AR to remedy that.
Tomorrow we shoot,