Hot suppressor handling

NiceOldDouble

NiceOldDouble

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Don’t have a cover yet. Need to be able to more quickly remove a suppressor, instead of sitting there waiting for it to cool off.

What do folks like to use to remove a hot suppressor? Oven mit? Welding gloves?
 

Siicone mats


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Some version of this kind of blanket will be very handy:

Welding Blanket Fireproof | Heat Resistant Up To 1800°F | Flame Retardant Fabric Material Carbon Felt for Welders | Plumbers Cuttable (1, Large) https://a.co/d/7E1qsbm

Rated up to 1800°. That one is 12”x26”. Mine is 18” square, but I stopped after finding that one as an example.
 
@DrScaryGuy posted this deal in the shoutbox. I have two of these Mechanix mits and bags that are very nice. The price on these kits are great! $40 for a mitt, bag and cover. I think Mechanix is not making them anymore so some places have put them on clearance.

wetworxoutfitters.com

SUPPRESSOR KIT

admin388440
wetworxoutfitters.com wetworxoutfitters.com
 
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One warning about oven mitts. Some of them will leave residue on really hot cans.

There are a much of Silencer Shop customers out there that have cans that are partially silver thanks to the freebie mitts SS gives out.
 
BigWaylon said:
One warning about oven mitts. Some of them will leave residue on really hot cans.

There are a much of Silencer Shop customers out there that have cans that are partially silver thanks to the freebie mitts SS gives out.
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i have not had that problem. I do have melted carpet residue, but that's not from the SS mitt
that must be why the later versions took off the metal finish to the mitts
 
BigWaylon said:
Some version of this kind of blanket will be very handy:

Welding Blanket Fireproof | Heat Resistant Up To 1800°F | Flame Retardant Fabric Material Carbon Felt for Welders | Plumbers Cuttable (1, Large) https://a.co/d/7E1qsbm

Rated up to 1800°. That one is 12”x26”. Mine is 18” square, but I stopped after finding that one as an example.
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Are these good for transportation of a hot can too? Or only good for removal?
 
Squanchy said:
Are these good for transportation of a hot can too? Or only good for removal?
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As in wrap it up and stick it in a bag/box/etc? I’d assume so…but I rarely transport hot cans.

Shoot rifles first. Remove cans if needed. Stand them up vertical, with the opening over a crack in the table (if available). Let physics take over.

I transport all my rifle cans on their hosts. Pistol and rimfire cans go back in pouches.
 
BigWaylon said:
As in wrap it up and stick it in a bag/box/etc? I’d assume so…but I rarely transport hot cans.
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Yes, I have been doing your technique of putting the hot can over a crack in the table. But have been pondering a transportation method Incase I have to leave immediately and the can is still hot.
 
Carolinatlc said:
I keep a couple of these in my range bags. They also work well to slip over warm cans if I don't have time for them to cool fully before packing up.

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That looks like a great, and inexpensive, option that ought to work at least 95% of the time.
 
bigfelipe said:
How hot does a can get? I need to get out my laser thermometer and see...
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Depends on rate of fire and number of rounds fired. Not hard to get a centerfire rifle can up to 300°-500° after a mag or two.

Could double that with a little effort. Most people don’t shoot that much, that fast, though.
 
BigWaylon said:
Depends on rate of fire and number of rounds fired. Not hard to get a centerfire rifle can up to 300°-500° after a mag or two.

Could double that with a little effort. Most people don’t shoot that much, that fast, though.
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I'm thinking for normal gun nuts... Not f-tards...
At a match I may run 40-45 rds in a stage. I'm not running FA beta dumps...
 
NiceOldDouble said:
Don’t have a cover yet. Need to be able to more quickly remove a suppressor, instead of sitting there waiting for it to cool off.

What do folks like to use to remove a hot suppressor? Oven mit? Welding gloves?
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www.sigsauer.com

MECHANIX WEAR HEAT PAD

The solution to removing your suppressor when it's blazing hot.
www.sigsauer.com www.sigsauer.com

Also, a cover may be a good idea so you can put it on after shooting and transport it without melting your rifle bag. But shooting with it on is just going to make it get and stay hotter. I think they probably hurt more than help as far as shooting with a cover on the suppressor.
 
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I’m new to this game and simple. I keep welding gloves in my truck and one I my rifle bag.

Only time will be had to pull a hot can and roll is when I’m way late to get home from the range and the wife called. Too hot to stuff in the rifle bag. I pulled it and tucked it inside the glove, sat it on the floor of the truck and split.

A steel ammo can and welding blanket/glove has crossed my mind as a way to roll out in a hurry.
 
I always just let them cool on the gun. Lock the bolt open and the heat from the can will cause a wicking effect and draw cool air from the bolt down the barrel and into the can until the can reaches ambient air temps. I've never had to dump and run with a suppressor so haven't had the need for it. I would guess you need similar material to actually put the suppressor back in a bag to carry it out, but I'd be hesitant to put a 500 degree suppressor down in a bag with ammo, mags, other guns, basically anything that could be harmed by the heat.
 
bigfelipe said:
I'm thinking for normal gun nuts... Not f-tards...
At a match I may run 40-45 rds in a stage. I'm not running FA beta dumps...
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One mag in about a minute is going to have it smoking hot and will burn up the rockset if it attaches on a brake or FH. Also the 5.56 cans seem to get the hottest as they have the smallest endcap hole. Wasn’t trying to be a douche with the meltdown vid, hope you didn’t take it as such.
 
gunn24 said:
One mag in about a minute is going to have it smoking hot and will burn up the rockset if it attaches on a brake or FH. Also the 5.56 cans seem to get the hottest as they have the smallest endcap hole. Wasn’t trying to be a douche with the meltdown vid, hope you didn’t take it as such.
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As in burn the rocksett off so the brake will come loose?
 
barf said:
As in burn the rocksett off so the brake will come loose?
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Manufacturer states:

INCREDIBLE TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE (-350°F) up to 2,015°F

Now…what happens when it no longer resists?
Or does melting/dissolving not meet the definition?

Can’t imagine any normal scenario, other than a brutal full-auto torture test, where a can would go over 2000°.

ETA: but I also don’t use Rocksett on muzzle devices
 
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BigWaylon said:
Manufacturer states:

INCREDIBLE TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE (-350°F) up to 2,015°F

Now…what happens when it no longer resists?
Or does melting/dissolving not meet the definition?

Can’t imagine any normal scenario, other than a brutal full-auto torture test, where a can would go over 2000°.

ETA: but I also don’t use Rocksett on muzzle devices
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Ive never had to heat any thread locker to 2000 degrees to remove it. I know Loctite loses its strength at 500 degrees. I think Rocsett has a very low torque strength at any temp. When you get a can hot and dirty enough after a day of use, removing it to clean everything has broken my FH loose a couple of times. But this was an early M4-2000 and an SM-4. Those type mounts clogged up easy back then
 
BigWaylon said:
Manufacturer states:

INCREDIBLE TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE (-350°F) up to 2,015°F

Now…what happens when it no longer resists?
Or does melting/dissolving not meet the definition?

Can’t imagine any normal scenario, other than a brutal full-auto torture test, where a can would go over 2000°.

ETA: but I also don’t use Rocksett on muzzle devices
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Ok good info. I thought that claim sounded ridiculous. If it wouldn’t hold up to the heat of shooting suppressed, I doubt Surefire would include/recommend it for use on their muzzle devices.
 
gunn24 said:
Ive never had to heat any thread locker to 2000 degrees to remove it. I know Loctite loses its strength at 500 degrees. I think Rocsett has a very low torque strength at any temp. When you get a can hot and dirty enough after a day of use, removing it to clean everything has broken my FH loose a couple of times. But this was an early M4-2000 and an SM-4. Those type mounts clogged up easy back then
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Rocksett is water soluble, not heat soluble.
 
barf said:
Ok good info. I thought that claim sounded ridiculous. If it wouldn’t hold up to the heat of shooting suppressed, I doubt Surefire would include/recommend it for use on their muzzle devices.
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I’m not saying it won’t melt, or loosen. After all, it’s not melting when it drops below -350°F. I just don’t know what the definition of “resistance” is when they say that. And is melting/softening still allowable between those temps and the statement is still true.

I also think a can is gonna get warmer than the barrel threads.

But you also remove Rocksett by soaking it in water…so it’s not like it’s a fail proof substance.

Again, I don’t use it…or any threadlocker, on my muzzle devices. I’ve used a drop or two on tucked cans to hopefully not leave a threaded adapter on the barrel…but none of those are centerfire rifle cans so major heat isn’t really a factor.
 
BigWaylon said:
I’m not saying it won’t melt, or loosen. After all, it’s not melting when it drops below -350°F. I just don’t know what the definition of “resistance” is when they say that. And is melting/softening still allowable between those temps and the statement is still true.

I also think a can is gonna get warmer than the barrel threads.

But you also remove Rocksett by soaking it in water…so it’s not like it’s a fail proof substance.

Again, I don’t use it…or any threadlocker, on my muzzle devices. I’ve used a drop or two on tucked cans to hopefully not leave a threaded adapter on the barrel…but none of those are centerfire rifle cans so major heat isn’t really a factor.
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Yeah it’s definitely not fail proof. But it’s made to withstand heat, oil, etc. I think it’s removed/dissolved intentionally. Again, Surefire sends it with all devices and recommends it. If it held up in the GWOT I think it’s gonna hold up for us larpers.
 
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This is not directed at gunn24 in any way…just a general statement.

I’d be willing to bet a majority of Rocksett failures are caused by the same thing that results in paint/coating disasters…improper/insufficient prep work.
 
barf said:
Yeah it’s definitely it fail proof. But it’s made to withstand heat, oil, etc. I think it’s removed/dissolved intentionally. Again, Surefire sends it with all devices and recommends it. If it held up in the GWOT I think it’s gonna hold up for us larpers.
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Rocksett is high temp not high strength. If us larpers need something stronger maybe a Nordlock washer lol
 
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