M1 Garand gurus...

1911gobang

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So my son got a CMP Garand from his mom for Christmas. Is there something about the gas port system with modern ammunition that could be an issue? Any other items of interest about it that I should know about?


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From what I have read the modern ammo burns hotter And can erode the gas port. But there is a company that makes a adjustable plug so you can shoot modern ammo. Not sure who makes it tho.

They do make ammo just for the M1. CMP sales surplus ammo too.
 
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Modern 30-06 loads especially hunting rounds tend to operate at a pressure curve that may/will damage op-rods.

There are garand specific options available, use them. Or get a different gas plug.

I'd suggest a cheap single stage and handloading, if you don't already. 30-06 is a round where the savings are real once you have brass.

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As Beef15 said the pressure from hunting rounds can/will bend the op rod.
That is a very expensive thing to happen.

He will need an en-boc clip also.
Where is he located?
If he is close I'll give him some clips and ammo.
 
There are a couple of ammo makers making the .06 ammo specifically for the Garands and the boxes are marked that way.

Another option is to order the surplus ammo from the CMP. Not sure what they are currently offering, but I bought 360 rds in 2 .50 cal ammo cans a couple of months ago.

https://estore.thecmp.org/?cat=AMC
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As Beef15 said the pressure from hunting rounds can/will bend the op rod.
That is a very expensive thing to happen.

He will need an en-boc clip also.
Where is he located?
If he is close I'll give him some clips and ammo.

Fayetteville


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Get him a high volume gas plug:

https://www.creedmoorsports.com/product/m1hvgp/Parts-and-Accessories

For $20, it is cheap insurance against hot rounds. That being said, the comments about ammo above are correct. The CMP is currently out of surplus ammo, but you can still find it at gunshows, but at a premium. You can buy Garand specific commercial ammo, but it is hard to find and pricey. The best thing to do is simply buy a simple hand press, a set of dies and reload for it. There is a ton of good load data online and it is not difficult to do.
 
That's the plug you want "SCHUSTER". As stated its the pressure curve on the Operating Rod that can be damaged. The preWWII load was the M1 .30 cal Ball 174 gr FMJ with 9 degree boat tail at 2600fps. It was changed early in WWII to the M2 .30 Ball 150gr FMJ at 2805 fps. Two other loads used in the Garand were the 168 gr AP bullet and M72 172gr FMJBT Match.

Schuster adjustable plug replaces standard plug
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CD
 
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Thanks guys...we’ll get the parts ordered next week.

I have 20k+ rounds reloading experience, so that’s the route we’ll go for ammo supply. May buy a couple hundred rounds just for having brass.

We shot it onesie style yesterday. That boy was grinning like a horny hillbilly at a family reunion...


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Also get him a complete spring kit and replace the springs in it.

Do you think you need to replace the springs when buying one just reworked from CMP? Asking b/c I only did the plug on mine and assumed the springs were good they used...
 
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Do you think you need to replace the springs when buying one just reworked from CMP? Asking b/c I only did the plug on mine and assumed the springs were good they used...

You don't HAVE to. Generally, they will function just fine with the springs that are in it from the CMP. But CMP assembles and repairs these guns with existing surplus stock, so the quality and lifespan of those springs can vary somewhat. You may get 70 year old springs mixed with new springs, but you do not know. I generally do not replace mine until there is a problem. Others replace them right off the bat as a preventative measure just to avoid a potential problem. If you only shoot it periodically, you may not want to replace them preemptively. However, if you are going to shoot your rifle a lot, like in frequent competitions, then I would recommend replacing them just so you know they are good and (probably) will not malfunction during a competition or some other inopportune time.
 
Do you think you need to replace the springs when buying one just reworked from CMP? Asking b/c I only did the plug on mine and assumed the springs were good they used...

The springs could be new could be used from 1950's. It's just cheap insurance I don't throw away the old springs but keep them operated. The op rod spring, if it's over 21" it's done and needs to be thrown out. I think it's 21" so just double check that.
 
Thanks guys...we’ll get the parts ordered next week.

I have 20k+ rounds reloading experience, so that’s the route we’ll go for ammo supply. May buy a couple hundred rounds just for having brass.

We shot it onesie style yesterday. That boy was grinning like a horny hillbilly at a family reunion...


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Just a reminder IMR 4895 is the powder you seek for correct pressure curve. H4895 used to be surplus IMR 4895 but got reformulated.


CD
 
I learned the hard way with my first M1 that I got for about $65 back in the '60's that you need to feed them what they want. I stripped the op rod off it one time shooting some warm loads of IMR 4350. Op rods, bolts, and about anything else you wanted were readily available and inexpensive there for a while, so the lesson cost me very little. I use IMR 4064 and IMR 4895 with 150 grain bullets loaded to about 2,700 f/s for all my 30/06 military rifles and have had no problems in many years.
 
I learned the hard way with my first M1 that I got for about $65 back in the '60's that you need to feed them what they want. I stripped the op rod off it one time shooting some warm loads of IMR 4350. Op rods, bolts, and about anything else you wanted were readily available and inexpensive there for a while, so the lesson cost me very little. I use IMR 4064 and IMR 4895 with 150 grain bullets loaded to about 2,700 f/s for all my 30/06 military rifles and have had no problems in many years.
Holy crap :eek: I bet that woke you up when it zinged by your ear...
 
If my memory serves, the op rod spring should have a min uncompressed length of 19" and a max uncompressed length of 20.25"
 
Holy crap :eek: I bet that woke you up when it zinged by your ear...
It did not leave the rifle but did strip out of the channel and off the bolt. I was able to put it back together so that it worked but did get a new rod and a new bolt. The rod was messed up a little.
 
Aftermarket gas screws aren't needed for most commercial ammo.

Remington 150gr core lokt is a safe and accurate load for target or hunting use.

Also any aftermarket screws are illegal in any cmp competition.
 
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So my son got a CMP Garand from his mom for Christmas. Is there something about the gas port system with modern ammunition that could be an issue? Any other items of interest about it that I should know about?


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I picked up an M1 Garand from the CMP South store a couple weeks ago. The gentleman behind the counter said that most commercial ammo with bullets 150 grains or less will work. He also said, "DO NOT use any Remington Core-Lokt ammo!"

I tried a box of Federal M1 Garand ammo. It chronographed at 2496FPS 8 round average and the extreme spread was 140FPS. I'm glad I bought only 1 box.

I loaded 150gr FMJBT Hornady bullets on top of 45 Grains of H4895. 2502FPS average with extreme spread of 47. I'll stick with that load until I can do a ladder test.
 
A bit dated, but still a good read
http://www.guns.com/2011/08/16/the-...d-diet-or-what-to-feed-your-m1-garand-part-i/

Quite simply:
don't shoot commercial ammo through your M1 unless it's "Garand safe" or without the use of an adjustable/ported gas plug. To do so will accelerate wear and eventually damage the rifle.

The M1 Garand was designed to handle a specific port pressure, not a specific bullet weight, so forget the "commercial ammo 150gr and under is OK" advice. The M1 will easily handle the original .30cal M1 ball ammo (which fired a 174gr bullet), M2 AP ammo (which fired a 165gr bullet) and M72 match ammo (which fired a 173gr bullet)... all of which are heavier than 150gr but loaded to a specific pressure curve which was safe for the gas system.
 
while I don`t suggest it, I shot many a 180gr Federal Hi-shok and Remington core-lokt in a Garand growing up, even killed my first deer with one using the Federals. Never had an issue.


Mid-late 1980`s I got hold of 2 cases of French milsurp 30-06(search the net...that stuff was H O T) intended for machine guns supposedly. After 1 op-rod and 2 broken stocks that ammo found a new home. The second broken stock broke at the wrist and the barreled action hit me in the forehead. My shooting buddy was laughing his arse off after I shot it, as i stood there with part of the rifle in one hand, buttstock in the other, sling swinging in the breeze.
 
I recall one year at Camp Perry I was shooting the JCG match (unlimited class) using my NM M1 chambered in .308WIN. Of course, when I get to the firing line I realize that I had put a couple boxes of M72 (.30-06) match ammo in my shooting stool instead of M852 match ammo (7.62mm). :mad:

At the last minute someone gave me 2 boxes of Hornady .308, 168gr super-performance ammo. I shot the match with it and the rifle digested the ammo, but man-o-man, that ammo was HOT. Never, ever again...
 
I picked up an M1 Garand from the CMP South store a couple weeks ago. The gentleman behind the counter said that most commercial ammo with bullets 150 grains or less will work. He also said, "DO NOT use any Remington Core-Lokt ammo!"

I tried a box of Federal M1 Garand ammo. It chronographed at 2496FPS 8 round average and the extreme spread was 140FPS. I'm glad I bought only 1 box.

I loaded 150gr FMJBT Hornady bullets on top of 45 Grains of H4895. 2502FPS average with extreme spread of 47. I'll stick with that load until I can do a ladder test.
He's an idiot..
150grn Rem Core-lokt is safe and matches M2 ball specs...
Impulse16.jpg
Pressure3.jpg


Even 180 core lokts are fine..
Impulse15.jpg

Pressure4.jpg
 
while I don`t suggest it, I shot many a 180gr Federal Hi-shok and Remington core-lokt in a Garand growing up, even killed my first deer with one using the Federals. Never had an issue.


Mid-late 1980`s I got hold of 2 cases of French milsurp 30-06(search the net...that stuff was H O T) intended for machine guns supposedly. After 1 op-rod and 2 broken stocks that ammo found a new home. The second broken stock broke at the wrist and the barreled action hit me in the forehead. My shooting buddy was laughing his arse off after I shot it, as i stood there with part of the rifle in one hand, buttstock in the other, sling swinging in the breeze.
the french isn't hot..it's M2 spec as there is no such thing as "machine gun ammo". The main issue with the French ammo is the brass was bad and it failed thru the case head most often wrecking the stock..
 
I am still shooting vintage 1943 ammo. It shoots great and is very accurate. It is also corrosive. Have to clean the crap out of them.
 
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