Paper Targets, what do you like?

JBoyette

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What are your favorite paper targets?

Why are they your favorite?

What kind of use "zeroing hunting rifle", "self defense training", "competition practice" etc do you do with these paper targets?

Thanks
 
For zeroing I like grid squares. Makes adjustments from the bench with a spotting scope easy. No need to guesstimate how many inches off you are.

For self defense training good old fashioned B-27s work.

Competition practice and general range time I probably shoot more steel than anything these days.
 
I like the standard Champion zero target for zeroing a rifle. For the rest of my paper shooting I like the shootnsee sticker type deals on cardboard.
 
For handgun practice I like a blank silhouette or even just a large blank sheet of white paper. Visible markings on the paper are a distraction. light markings that can be seen with the target in hand are fine.
 
shoot and C stick ons, very rarely when I'm sighting in or verifying zero. Otherwise, steel rules my world.
 
I'm pretty much with @rantingredneck and @Ikarus1 . I use a 1" grid or 1" ring pattern to zero. I did shoot a variety of paper for handgun, but now I prefer steel, mostly because it keeps me from focusing on the group and lets me practice hitting what I am aiming at as rapidly and efficiently as possible.
 
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For a scoped rifle I like a four inch square with a 1" thick black border. Aim at the corners, it is very precise for me, good enough rifle/load could get 4-8 groups out of one, range dependent. It's not awful for irons/dots with a handgun or rifle.

For competition I shoot USPSA/IPSC targets mostly, because that is what I'll shoot in matches. For the pure accuracy work dots, usually 2".

SD/HD usually USPSA because it's up already. I have a pile of F-TQ19ANT-A targets I like for less experienced shooters, if they're not on their game it allows me to point out they may not have hit where they wanted but still something vital. Also that there is more to stop a threat than heart and lungs. If they're feeling good they can challenge themselves with the head or small bullseye.
 
At indoor ranges when I am just doing basic marksmanship type stuff I enjoy the targets that have 5 small bulls eye style targets. Allows me to shoot more, at smaller areas, between target changes.

At outdoor ranges I enjoy silhouette style targets to work on movement and vital area shooting and less on the pinpoint accuracy. I also like playing a game with myself, and at times with those I am with, where I have them call my targets...like "Left hand...Right hand...Heart...Head...Right shoulder and Left shoulder" so I practice quickly picking individual places on the body to shoot. Not because I plan on shooting someone in the leg, or shooting a pistol out of a hand or anything silly, but to keep myself from getting lazy and just shooting at one fixed point.

For zeroing, as mentioned above, I like the grid square style so I know its up 2 inches right 1 inch as opposed to "Up a bit and to the right some". I really hate zeroing.
 
It depends on what type of shooting I am doing. I shoot a lot of B8, IDPA cardboard, stick on dots etc.... Then there are drill specific targets that I shoot. The range I go to give you a B27 target with your range fee. I don't shoot them but bring them home and with a set of markers turn them into these. I shoot the casino drill with them at 7 yards. I try to vary the targets so I don't get bored and I am not gaming the drill.

DT-2A_N.jpg
 
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Walmart paper plates....mostly cuze I’m a cheap ass,

I do have a pile of the VTACs that I use

or the one above

I'm sure others have tried as well, but sexytargets.com is not a valid website. I had just made sure all my ink was brand new.
 
When shooting pistol, I just take a piece of plain copy paper and trace out a dime with a sharpy and fill it in and shoot it from ten yards. Then when you can hit that regularly,then aim for the edge of the paper. It should look like a scalloped edge all around the outside. I'm of the school of, aim small miss small. Once you can do that, you can easily hit any larger target right where you want it to go at longer distances. The advantage of shooting a small target at short distance is that you get instant feed back. Rifle, same thing just at a longer distance. ? Use small and reactive targets, you get positive feed back for doing it the right way.
 
IDPA silhouettes, and paper plates.
 
For zeroing I like a grid with several aiming points. What I avoid are black ink. It's tough to see black crosshairs against a black block or circle, especially at distance.shot_1553990768738.jpg
 
For zeroing and accuracy testing- grid squares. For muzzleloading practice, the shape of our targets. For centerfire- zeroing and testing- grid squares. For general centerfire shooting, depends on what gun. I enjoy plates with handguns. Rifles- depends on the distance.
 
+1 for the 25yd adjust zero red dot target @Button Pusher posted. Been using those for years, and I confirm my zero at 200 when I get a chance.

For general practice, I very much prefer steel but when I do use paper, it’s usually EZ2C targets with 5 bulls. I like the small aiming points and less replacing targets.
B5D7CE5A-3530-4398-B697-7368CED1F686.png

Secondarily, I like the game type targets like the battleship one. Excellent practice for 2 ppl and a lot of fun.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ESIUHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e0XiEbQKRA563
 
+1 for the 25yd adjust zero red dot target @Button Pusher posted. Been using those for years, and I confirm my zero at 200 when I get a chance.

For general practice, I very much prefer steel but when I do use paper, it’s usually EZ2C targets with 5 bulls. I like the small aiming points and less replacing targets.
View attachment 183347

Secondarily, I like the game type targets like the battleship one. Excellent practice for 2 ppl and a lot of fun.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ESIUHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e0XiEbQKRA563

I agree that game or drill specific targets are great for keeping things fun and engaging. It gets boring just shooting the same old paper target.
 
Walmart paper plates....mostly cuze I’m a

I do have a pile of the VTACs that I use

or the one above
I use paper plates too, from Dollar General. $2 for 80, and either use a sticky dot in the middle, or a circle made with a red sharpie I keep in my range bag. I’m cheap and admit it!
 
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With my eyes, something with a bullseye colored so the front sight of the gun I'm shooting stands out!

Or should I say that blurry dot between the notch of the rear sight. New specs should be in next week. I'm hoping that helps a bit!
 
For sighting I like the grid stuff also, and I've come to favor the 12x18" shoot n c grid target found on Amazon.

They're especially good for small caliber 22, (you can see the hit) and are fine for 100 yard work which is best I can do at my range.

For closer/handgun work I like the 8' shoot-n-c and the USPSA cardboards.
I have a bunch of steels hanging all over at different distances and sizes, from 3" to 12" and square.
Also 4" clays spread about in the clay holders that Academy sells. (I know not paper but in the same vein)
I like shooting playing cards also when we have guests.

I absolutely forbid any glass or plastic. If it won't bio-degrade or can be picked up. No.
 
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Since the topics is targets I thought I'd mention a source for free standing holders that cost nothing and can be easily found. Since it is getting into an election year, a great way to recycle all those signs left afterward is to use them as target holders. Target holders do, after all, have a fairly short life expectancy so getting a few of them to use is a great way to clean up the roadside and have some fun. I would recommend that you either paint over them or glue some plain cardboard or paper on top to make sure no one thinks you have a personal vendetta going on. They can normally take a lot of hits to the sign itself but the metal legs tend to get shot off more than one would think. Good luck!
 
For standard fun shooting, I buy construction and drawing paper from the dollar store and use red markers to draw dots or squares.

I'm cheap.
 
Most of my practice & competition targets are NRA highpower: SR1, SR, SR3, MR63, MR. I'll shoot these things to death and paste the holes over and over until you can't see the scoring rings any longer!

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As far as plinking, I'm not particular and will shoot on just about any paper target with an aiming point. I will confess that I am a target whore and will peel off partially used targets when I'm down at the shooting range. I'll find targets that only have a few shots on them, or even some with no shots at all, and re-purpose them with pasters. I have a mix of shoot-n-see, rimfire, benchrest, pistol, etc. all stacked up in the garage. I can remember the last time that I had to purchase targets for plinking.

Pasters are the key to getting a lot of life out of your targets
PASTER.png
 
I also use Splatterburst targets since my vision just keeps getting worse every year.
 
I prefer any large paper target if i am at Sportmans Lodge indoor range, i turn them around to the white side and draw boxes using a permanent black marker the size of a 20 round JHP box/or post it note on the top row. I draw circles a bit larger than a quarter in a second row. Then i draw a line of of crosses about 1.5-2 inches tall/wide. Finally on the last row i make little dots about the size of a pea. I usually shoot the first box from around 12 feet, if i am on, I back it up to about 25 feet. Shoot the rest of the boxes. reload.
Second row i repeat the process. But ill shoot them from about 12-15 feet. Whatever the first line on the floor is. I use that indoor range time for working on precision. Focus on front site coming back on target, pay attention to trigger press. Bigger the targets faster you go, smaller targets slowing down.

I only need one target for about 200 rounds this way.

V
 
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