Destroying a classic, Remington Sportsman 48 tactical.

Do you have a flush cutting saw? Saw for cutting off dowels/pegs.
If so, the tape the stock and use the saw while pressing it to the stock couture.

I am thinking that’s similar to one of these Japanese wood saws? No, I certainly don’t. I have an angle grinder though, does that count? :D

I don’t really have any woodworking tools. It’s all done with one rasp, files, sand paper and blocks. o_O EDIT: and two wood chisels from Harbor Freight, one of them with a good nick from hitting a nail at some point.
 
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I am thinking that’s similar to one of these Japanese wood saws? No, I certainly don’t. I have an angle grinder though, does that count? :D

I don’t really have any woodworking tools. It’s all done with one rasp, files, sand paper and blocks. o_O EDIT: and two wood chisels from Harbor Freight, one of them with a good nick from hitting a nail at some point.


That is how wood working got done back in the day. Worked then, still works now. Just a little time consuming.
And the chisel is easy enuff to fix. ;)
 
That is how wood working got done back in the day. Worked then, still works now. Just a little time consuming.
And the chisel is easy enuff to fix. ;)

Yep. Sloooooooow and steady. Of course I say that but it didn’t occur to me to use masking tape until after I put a couple of gouges in the stock with the rasp. I is not too bright.

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A little more...

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Done. That’s as good as I can get it.

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I’m not to sure but I’m betting this rescue is gonna give you a special bond with this old girl and you two will have a long and fun relationship. Putting the work in to her like you have may not make her perfectly restored like new but it sure makes her yours!
 
Yep. Sloooooooow and steady. Of course I say that but it didn’t occur to me to use masking tape until after I put a couple of gouges in the stock with the rasp. I is not too bright.

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A little more...

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Done. That’s as good as I can get it.

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Live and learn. Lessons you will never forget.


I’m not to sure but I’m betting this rescue is gonna give you a special bond with this old girl and you two will have a long and fun relationship. Putting the work in to her like you have may not make her perfectly restored like new but it sure makes her yours!


Absotoothly!!! ;)
 
Now pick your finish and get some high grit wet/dry sand paper (after you finish all the other sand paper grades) and thin the finish down and wet sand it in. Done slowly will produce some amazing results.
 
As to finish I’m not to sure I wouldn’t just go with raw linseed oil ... keep on rubbing it in a bunch of times and let in seep deep into the older wood giving it a good drink and letting it take a more natural color. Raw linseed oil is what use on my mil-surps ... especially M1 Garands and Carbines ... and then top it off with Johnson Paste Wax a few weeks after the linseed oil has taken in and given the wood a full color.C9BE2103-9FA4-4244-B270-54B577C11746.jpeg

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Now pick your finish and get some high grit wet/dry sand paper (after you finish all the other sand paper grades) and thin the finish down and wet sand it in. Done slowly will produce some amazing results.

Yes, that would be the right way to do it. I just went with wet 320 and denatured alcohol.
I am cheating and using a dark stain to hide some of the flaws.

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As to finish I’m not to sure I wouldn’t just go with raw linseed oil ... keep on rubbing it in a bunch of times and let in seep deep into the older wood giving it a good drink and letting it take a more natural color. Raw linseed oil is what use on my mil-surps ... especially M1 Garands and Carbines ... and then top it off with Johnson Paste Wax a few weeks after the linseed oil has taken in and given the wood a full color.View attachment 196784

View attachment 196785

You made me Google it, I wasn’t even aware that there was such a thing as raw/unboiled linseed oil.
BLO is what I bought yesterday and was planning in using. Is there enough of a difference between the two to matter for this project?
 
I use boiled linseed oil on most stocks I refinish (shotguns, mil-surp, rifles, handgun grips, furniture).
Rub in wet and keep doing it until you get the finish you want.
I'm doing a 22 rifle now and I'll prob do 10 to 15 coats, maybe more.
 
You made me Google it, I wasn’t even aware that there was such a thing as raw/unboiled linseed oil.
BLO is what I bought yesterday and was planning in using. Is there enough of a difference between the two to matter for this project?


Raw is exactly what it says. Raw. Takes a long time to dry. Boiled has additives to make drying faster. How much patience you got.
 
I use boiled linseed oil on most stocks I refinish (shotguns, mil-surp, rifles, handgun grips, furniture).
Rub in wet and keep doing it until you get the finish you want.
I'm doing a 22 rifle now and I'll prob do 10 to 15 coats, maybe more.


So how come we ain't seeing no pictures of this project??? Or have you posted them and I didn't see them?
 
So how come we ain't seeing no pictures of this project??? Or have you posted them and I didn't see them?
I had a boat also :(

I just don't post pics of what I may or may not have, sorry.
 
I am thinking that’s similar to one of these Japanese wood saws?
Not that you need it anymore, but yes, similar. The main difference in the flush cut saw is that there is no set to the teeth. "Set" is a slight bend away from the plane of the blade; alternate teeth are bent away, one right, one left, etc. This makes the saw kerf slightly wider so chips can be carried out of the kerf and the blade won't bind in the cut.

The flush cut has no set, so it lays very flat on the surface of the surrounding wood and the teeth won't scratch the wood you ain't cuttin'. It's usually a thin blade, too, so you can flex it flat. It's great for lopping off dowels & plugs, or fitting butt plate spacers!

Looking good. Which means you're blowin' it! Rule #1: never get good at a job you don't wanna do a lot. :)
 
Not that you need it anymore, but yes, similar. The main difference in the flush cut saw is that there is no set to the teeth. "Set" is a slight bend away from the plane of the blade; alternate teeth are bent away, one right, one left, etc. This makes the saw kerf slightly wider so chips can be carried out of the kerf and the blade won't bind in the cut.

The flush cut has no set, so it lays very flat on the surface of the surrounding wood and the teeth won't scratch the wood you ain't cuttin'. It's usually a thin blade, too, so you can flex it flat. It's great for lopping off dowels & plugs, or fitting butt plate spacers!

Looking good. Which means you're blowin' it! Rule #1: never get good at a job you don't wanna do a lot. :)


Rule not 1 is: never let others know you are good at what you don't want to do for them. ;)
 
Does yours have the recoil bearing plate? Number 62 in this diagram. Mine is missing. I need to measure the stock to see if it actually had one.

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I found the 11-48, they are always the last place you look! Also found my grandfather's Fox double barrel 12 ga. and his Lefever double barrel 20 ga. that I had forgotten about.

The best I can tell, it does not have that piece. You can't see it from any angle that you look at it.

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You made me Google it, I wasn’t even aware that there was such a thing as raw/unboiled linseed oil.
BLO is what I bought yesterday and was planning in using. Is there enough of a difference between the two to matter for this project?
I actually use both but I like Raw Linseed because it actually will give a more reddish, for lack of a better word, patina look as it ages and oxidizes. It is just my personal taste.

It also is slow drying but that allows the oil to be drawn deep into the wood ... very nice for older dry wood ... especially since I wipe down the wood with mineral spirits 3 or 4 times after any sanding or such before I start to apply the finish. You don't have to let it dry 100% between coats but it took me almost a week of rubbing in the Raw Linseed ... one AM coat and one PM the first 4 or 5 days ... and the let it dry 3 or 4 days before a couple coats of the floor wax (Johnson Paste Wax).
 
I actually use both but I like Raw Linseed because it actually will give a more reddish, for lack of a better word, patina look as it ages and oxidizes. It is just my personal taste.

It also is slow drying but that allows the oil to be drawn deep into the wood ... very nice for older dry wood ... especially since I wipe down the wood with mineral spirits 3 or 4 times after any sanding or such before I start to apply the finish. You don't have to let it dry 100% between coats but it took me almost a week of rubbing in the Raw Linseed ... one AM coat and one PM the first 4 or 5 days ... and the let it dry 3 or 4 days before a couple coats of the floor wax (Johnson Paste Wax).

Do you rub it with a cloth or something between coats or just pile them on?
 
Do you rub it with a cloth or something between coats or just pile them on?
Personally I soak a rag and wipe it on kinda heavy, let it soak for a few minutes then go back over it with smooth passes to make sure the oil is evenly spread over the entire stock and then put it aside to dry. You’ll see the wood slightly darken with each application up to a point and then know. After that I use the paste wax while others use Boiled Linseed and others just leave it with as the Raw Linseed is.
 
Do not leave your linseed soaked rag in a pile on the floor. Possible spontaneous combustion could happen.
When you are done wiping with them, open them up and lay flay on a rock, gravel patch or hanging from a line somewhere.
 
Do not leave your linseed soaked rag in a pile on the floor. Possible spontaneous combustion could happen.
When you are done wiping with them, open them up and lay flay on a rock, gravel patch or hanging from a line somewhere.


Or do what I do with all rags with any kind of finish/solvent in them. Takem outside and throw in the fire pit. Toss in a match and problem solved. :)
 
No pictures but a couple of things:
- I like the BLO finish so far. I apply it in thin coats and it dries quickly, allowing me to do it twice a day. In addition it's clean and it even smells good (at least it doesn't smell bad).
- Recoil pads are expensive! I wasn't really planning on replacing it until you jerks made me fix the stock properly and all pretty, and now I have to. I need a 1" pad that can be ground to fit since the stock is not standard. Anyone has any recommendations?
- I haven't even shot the gun yet, I sure hope that it runs otherwise it's going to be a lot of wasted time.
 
So I finally got the nerves to get the hacksaw out and trim the barrel!

Ok, not really. I have a friend who has a really nice shop and likes to tinker with guns. So we cut the barrel about one inch behind the Cutts on the bandsaw then chucked the barrel on the lathe.

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The live center was just used to help center the barrel, then as a safety if SHTF.
A quick dip in ospho blue and it was good to go.

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Then we removed the mounting ring for the Cutts from the barrel stub. The stub went in the lathe and was bored out to about .780"
The idea was to thin it out so it would heat up quicker without touching the inside diameter of the mounting ring (.800")
Heat it up to a dull red and it popped right off, I did crush the barrel stub in the vise though. No big deal...

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The silver solder looks more like brass to me but I know that there are multiple different kinds with different melting points, so who knows?

And the mounting ring ready to be reused:

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I did a mock assembly. It looks nice enough.

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EDIT: the lighting makes it look like the forearm and stock are two different colors. They are not.


Yeah the light is reflecting directly to the camera from the forearm and more at an angle on the stock. Still looks awesome.

I get that you don't like wood working but like I said before. It don't stop you from being good at it. I really like the look of the spacer on the butt plate and that is a great job on the patch.

You spurred me into starting on a project I have been putting off. I will post about it soon. Change the title. Destroying to Rescuing. ;)
 
What mag tube extension you going with?

Not sure yet. It has to be a +1 or +2 because I cannot clamp it to the barrel (barrel moves under recoil). I would like to find a blued one to match the receiver and barrel. Ultimately it will be whatever is cheap and available.
 
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Against my better judgement I decided to re-attach the recoil pad that came with the gun. It needs a little touch up but could be made to fit quite nicely. Mostly I wonder if a brand new one would look out of place on that gun? This one kinda matches the “well used but not abused” look. What do you guys say? Yay or nay?
 
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Against my better judgement I decided to re-attach the recoil pad that came with the gun. It needs a little touch up but could be made to fit quite nicely. Mostly I wonder if a brand new one would look out of place on that gun? This one kinda matches the “well used but not abused” look. What do you guys say? Yay or nay?
Meh, serviceable, might clean up & be fine. It looks like the "grid" is collapsing a little bit; can't tell if the rubber is getting brittle, but it seems like it may be closer to the end of its service life.

And, after all... you've come this far... ;)
 
View attachment 197988

Against my better judgement I decided to re-attach the recoil pad that came with the gun. It needs a little touch up but could be made to fit quite nicely. Mostly I wonder if a brand new one would look out of place on that gun? This one kinda matches the “well used but not abused” look. What do you guys say? Yay or nay?
TO ME it matches well ... the shotgun itself looks period correct and putting a new one would look out of place. Personally I’d take it off and wash it with sudsy Dawn dishwashing detergent, spray it down good a couple times with a protectant/dressing (car type stuff) and put it back on the old girl ... and change the title from “destroying” to “saving”.
 
Not sure yet. It has to be a +1 or +2 because I cannot clamp it to the barrel (barrel moves under recoil). I would like to find a blued one to match the receiver and barrel. Ultimately it will be whatever is cheap and available.
Check out the Choate. They are blued and I think would match nicely. Let me get a pic of the one I have on my mid 80s Winchester Ranger 120 Youth.
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Meh, serviceable, might clean up & be fine. It looks like the "grid" is collapsing a little bit; can't tell if the rubber is getting brittle, but it seems like it may be closer to the end of its service life.

And, after all... you've come this far... ;)

I think the collapsed spot was due to something pushing against that spot while in storage. The pad is still soft and is not falling apart. It is nearing end of life but I won’t be shooting three guns matches with it so...

TO ME it matches well ... the shotgun itself looks period correct and putting a new one would look out of place. Personally I’d take it off and wash it with sudsy Dawn dishwashing detergent, spray it down good a couple times with a protectant/dressing (car type stuff) and put it back on the old girl ... and change the title from “destroying” to “saving”.

I will at least keep it until I get a chance to put a few rounds through it. The look is really growing on me. We’ll see.
 
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