It's here!!! My new precision rifle...

So I know this fits the shape of the end of the bolt... What's it for..? Nothing in the manual (which sucks btw)...

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bigfelipe said:
Ordered it Sunday. LGS called today when it was delivered...

Tikka T3X TAC A1 .308 with a Vortex Viper PST Gen2 5-25x50 scope...

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Thanks to @Matt.Cross for the scope mount to get me going while I decide on a permanent solution...

Bipod and ammo come tomorrow...
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I like it. Question, decisions and finished product in about 72 hours. No dicking around. Well done.
 
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CHRIS_WNC said:
Decoker of some sort? To take the tension off the firing pin and let the bolt be taken apart.

CHRIS
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@bigfelipe I think its meant for bolt disassembly. I have tried to take mine apart and the bolt handle is so tight I can't get it out of the dovetail and I'm afraid to hammer on it lol I can get the tension off of the firing pin assembly but I can't get the handle to slide out of the bolt. It's almost like its press fit in there. All the videos on YT show a stainless handle coming right out but ours is coated so I'm not sure if thats the difference in coming out easy or not. Also if you decide to go with a vertical grip the MDT fits you just need a different screw than the one that come with it. IIRC its an M6-1.0x40 bolt. I got one at lowes and it fit just fine.
 
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bigfelipe said:
Dunno about that one but I will most likely change the bolt handle out...
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I know it looks odd, but sweeping it back puts it closer to the web of your thumb for easier and faster manipulation. It's understandably not everybody cup of tea though.:)
 
Grim said:
Congrats!!! Any idea on what type of ammo you intend to run?
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I don't. I ordered a handful of different rounds I found available at reasonable prices. Some hunting, some plinking, some match. Couldn't find much match grade at acceptable prices right now.

I'm on notification lists for some Federal, Hornady, and Privi Partisan match-grade stuff.

I'll start reloading for it soon too as soon as I get a chance to get everything together. I don't have any components for .308 or dies yet.
 
bigfelipe said:
I don't. I ordered a handful of different rounds I found available at reasonable prices. Some hunting, some plinking, some match. Couldn't find much match grade at acceptable prices right now.

I'm on notification lists for some Federal, Hornady, and Privi Partisan match-grade stuff.

I'll start reloading for it soon too as soon as I get a chance to get everything together. I don't have any components for .308 or dies yet.
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Targetsportsusa.com will be a good source for match ammo. Buy it by the case to prevent load variation.

I shoot Federal Gold Medal Match 175gr. for my .308s.
 
Finally got to shoot my Tikka today. Man that joker is slick as snot... It's going to take me some time to figure out the right way to set it up, length of pull/scope placement/comb height/etc...

Then I have to figure out how to make sure the scope is level and plumb to the rifle...


But I tell you what, it was a blast shooting 6" plates at 300yds today after a redneck eyeball sight-in...

Looking forward to learning more and stretching it out further...
 
bigfelipe said:
Then I have to figure out how to make sure the scope is level and plumb to the rifle...
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I would recommend an adjustable parallel. With the rings only just loose enough to allow the scope to turn, place the adjustable parallel directly underneath the turret portion of the scope and adjust the parallel height until the scope will no longer wiggle in rotation. Then tighten the rings and remove the parallel. You can't get a scope any more level than that.

https://www.shars.com/adjustable-parallel-set

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bigfelipe said:
Then I have to figure out how to make sure the scope is level and plumb to the rifle...
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the Arisaka leveling tool is slick. Or, get a cheap set of feeler gauges. Set your scope in the rings just loose enough to turn. Level with feeler gauges between bottom of the erector and top of rail, tighten rings, remove gauges. Bazinga.
 
bigfelipe said:
figure out how to make sure the scope is level and plumb to the rifle...
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1) Check the shoulder fit, meaning when a rifle is shouldered for a particular shooter it may or may not be completely vertical.
General consonance is to set the rifle vertical ( small bubble across receiver, etc ) and set scope level to the rifle.
An example, if a rifle - scope is setup for vertical and shouldered by the shooter and is actually canted Right or Left, then at longer ranges it will make a difference.

2) With the rifle set at the shooters shouldering position ( example, in a rest ) , use a Plumb Bob to align the scope Vertical Subtension to the Plumb Bob line.

A quick review, I think the following explains it and it looks like the user is setting up his rig ( rifle & scope) to both being Vertical.

 
Get the arisaka level kit or the one Matt cross posted. They work similarly. I used the bubble levels and it’s a pita imo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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YeeHaa said:
1) Check the shoulder fit, meaning when a rifle is shouldered for a particular shooter it may or may not be completely vertical.
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In my never very humble opinion, leveling the scope to your “natural” hold, or a particular shoulder, is only a good idea in very limited circumstances.

If all the shooter will ever do is shoot/set up the exact same way every time, then go for it. For example, if it’s strictly a bench rest gun, or you’ll always shoot prone.

If you’ll ever shoot different positions - bench, prone, kneeling, sitting, from a stand, from a stage prop, etc - then leveling the scope to the rifle base is the better option. It’s much easier to remove cant from the rifle when you engage than trying to ensure the same shoulder pocket position.
 
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Zbizzle911 said:
Get the arisaka level kit or the one Matt cross posted. They work similarly. I used the bubble levels and it’s a pita imo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Tim said:
In my never very humble opinion, leveling the scope to your “natural” hold, or a particular shoulder, is only a good idea in very limited circumstances.

If all the shooter will ever do is shoot/set up the exact same way every time, then go for it. For example, if it’s strictly a bench rest gun, or you’ll always shoot prone.

If you’ll ever shoot different positions - bench, prone, kneeling, sitting, from a stand, from a stage prop, etc - then leveling the scope to the rifle base is the better option. It’s much easier to remove cant from the rifle when you engage than trying to ensure the same shoulder pocket position.
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Yup, well,,,


I don't know how a shooter will or will not shoot over a period of time meaning standing with rifle shouldered, bench or prone.

It does seem relevant ( to me ) to cover the bases set a rig up to be shouldered and for prone or bench shooting have a level mounted to the scope tube and make sure that is level in those positions.
Yes, one would have to introduce whatever cant when shooting prone or bench, or whatever.

Frankly, for up close and personal to moderate ranges one can set a rig up by "E y E" and be real Close, and that is with NO leveling tools and you'll be fine.

Also, I would get rid of bubble levels that have a frame or base ( and Have ) and just use a RAW Vial, as in the picture.
I have found that levels sold for scope vertical setup~s are inaccurate and have found using a raw vial across the pic rail works fine.

So for just setting a scope to vertical one needs a weighted string ( Plumb Bob ) and if yah want the rig vertical, use an unframed vial.

I offered viable option~s which work and I'm not selling anything.


Bubble level vial.jpg
 
The wedge devices do work and the following is a PSA for the rest of you / us.

Some to many read threads, such as this one, to get more understanding & insight for the subject at hand.

I did not previously mention the following because the OP has his rig & hardware and can see if there are or would be limitations.

I'm posting the following for the rest of you.

Many,,,,,,,,, years ago I to also used this Wedge Method ( tool~s ) and at times in conjunction with other devices to set a scope to level whether it was in a cantilevered mount or mounted directly to a receiver.

At the time I was swapping scopes, etc, etc, and several times I found that the Wedge device could not be used because of mechanical interference.

Mainly, this interference was introduced when scopes with a “Purge Button” was on the bottom of the turret hub, and while many scope turrets do not extend past the bottom of the turret hub, at times the turret knurling does and could limit the use of a wedge device.

A few notes on a string or Plumb Bob.

Some have stated that carrying around a string is a pain.

Fact of the matter is all that needs to be done is to use a “Known Vertical” reference.

This could be just leveling a square target and referencing the edge.

Concerning cant, a rifle barrel doesn't have or know an up position until a targeting device is zeroed to a position of choice. This is how the 45 degree BUIS work.

Bubble levels marketed for rifle / scope setup;

I'll add that using scope bubble levels proved just as frustrating because I found several that were not accurate.

Why ?

For what ever reason I believe the vial~s did not seat properly in its fixture so when used with setting up a rifle it would off.

How do I know?

I put a RAW bubble vial ( not mounted in a fixture ) across the rail while using a level in a fixture ad you can see many times the bubble in the fixture did not match the raw vial.

Bottom line, in this case, which ever method you want to use ( there are a few more as well ) you obtain positive results to enable you to shoot with confidence.


Safe Shooting
 
bigfelipe said:
Finally got to shoot my Tikka today. Man that joker is slick as snot... It's going to take me some time to figure out the right way to set it up, length of pull/scope placement/comb height/etc...

Then I have to figure out how to make sure the scope is level and plumb to the rifle...


But I tell you what, it was a blast shooting 6" plates at 300yds today after a redneck eyeball sight-in...

Looking forward to learning more and stretching it out further...
Click to expand...


I have not read the reply's to this question but this is the most accurate way that I have found to make sure everything is straight.

Get a set of parallels and have one set on the bolt raceways. Use this as a flat so that you can level or plum the action. Get the scope where you think it is level. Then around 50 to 100 yards away place a string with a weight on the bottom and hang it off of something. With the action level look and see if the vertical line is on the string. Then once you have that lined up, run the elevation turret and see if it travels off the string. Adjust accordingly.

You will find that a lot of scopes are wayyyy off from the level of the turret. And you will find that some scopes will track left and right when you think the vertical line is straight. It will make you pull your hair out.

I have had a few scopes where I had to either set the scope up for hold over or dialing since the reticle was canted from the turrets. I was told by a few companies that the scopes will pass quality control with a 5 degrees or less alignment between tracking and the reticle.
 
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