HVAC AGAIN

Catfish

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@jjwestbrook

Imabout ta shoot this damned thing.

Tonight its giving a flashy red light (single blink) and running all the fans (blower and inducer) all the time. Does not respond to thermostat calls, had to pull the disconnect to stop it. When i did it peed out the drain line for about a minute. Power on, immediately starts fans again.

I may need that board we talked about over lunch?

Oh and... the code legend on my furnace door is not legible. Woo!
 
You got the make and model for unit?
How many/ interval is the red light flashing?
 
tis the Season brotha.

Get this... So I left my Cooling on through the last few weeks when it was brisk outside. House got down to 59 one morning.. I loved it.

The system didn't even turn on...

Skip to Friday, when things starting warming up and I could tell that the humidity in the house was higher than normal. Sure enough the temp started creeping up.

Yesterday morning, I could tell it was going to do the same and I went out to check the outside unit. The fan wasn't turning, the unit was on but humming and then would stop.

It was scorching hot on the components....

1. I knew it had to be: either the Capacitor, Fan Motor or worst the compressor failed.

2. But, the compressor would try to turn on.

Called my neighbor and he came over... replaced the capacitor with a 55 5 after checking failed connection and then the fan would start but the compressor wouldn't turn on.

Uh, oh.....

Compressors typically have a high-temp shut off switch. It got hot and would not "close" after cooling; but the system was trying to reboot it with a boost from the Capacitor and Hard Start. It literally wore out the old 45 5 capacitor over the last two days trying to get a boost to start the compressor.

We sprayed water for a long time on the unit and waited.... Finally I the compressor clicked on... The fan started and it was pulling hot air out under heavy load. in 1.5 hours you could see your breath.

Outdoor units are finicky.... I have learned over 19 years that it can be 4 variables on the outside unit and then any combination of them will be your problem.

Now the programmable thing you are talking about.. I have one too... and I don't mess with it..
 
I checked the high limit switch in the exchanger box and its closed (continuity) but my ohm meter isn't working right so i can't check resistance.

Is there a second switch at the burner? What's this thing? Its open if its a switch.

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More pics below with model data and board id numbers.
 

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Holy crap that was it. I pressed the reset on the flame rollout switch and she's alive again!!!

Odd thing is, that switch tripped while the A/C was running. Guess i better buy a new one huh?
 
New rollout switch can't hurt, and it's cheap and easy to install. Not saying it's your issue however.
Hope it keeps working for you.
 
@jjwestbrook

Imabout ta shoot this damned thing.

Tonight its giving a flashy red light (single blink) and running all the fans (blower and inducer) all the time. Does not respond to thermostat calls, had to pull the disconnect to stop it. When i did it peed out the drain line for about a minute. Power on, immediately starts fans again.

I may need that board we talked about over lunch?

Oh and... the code legend on my furnace door is not legible. Woo!
(You will not understand if outside Charlotte media area)
You know now what you didn’t do? You didn’t call Morris-Jenkins and bring it up gggggently.
 
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My TXV valve or some nonsense got clogged on a two year old unit. Cost 400 dollars to repair it.
That’s 80% of the time cutting corners on the install. Using silver solder and a high heat torch puts black soot into the pipe and it accumulates either in the thermal expansion valve or the reversing valve small tubes. Nitrogen purge thru the pipe while soldering eliminates soot contamination.

Gets worse every time a closed refrigerant component has to be replaced after that. Like a thermal expansion valve. Might take years to clog but it will happen.
 
Holy crap that was it. I pressed the reset on the flame rollout switch and she's alive again!!!

Odd thing is, that switch tripped while the A/C was running. Guess i better buy a new one huh?

It would be extremely odd if it happened in cooling. It’s not in the cooling electrical circuit. I would run it in heat and see if it opens the switch again.
 
(You will not understand if outside Charlotte media area)
You know now what you didn’t do? You didn’t call Morris-Jenkins and bring it up gggggently.


I don't know which commercials I hate worse, Morris-Jenkins or that damn woman from Randy Marion..................

.
 
I don't know which commercials I hate worse, Morris-Jenkins or that damn woman from Randy Marion..................

.

I can tell you that Jennifer is like a size 0 and looks better in person. So I can handle seeing her on tv.
 
I do the yearly thing with the company that originally installed the HVAC.
They come out twice a year and clean and check everything. Plus, if you develop a problem between visits, they come out and fix it. It came in handy this past winter. Talking to the tech, I found that the guy that came in the spring didn't really do a thorough job. He no longer works for them. They did over a grand worth of work. Free. To me the couple hundred it costs yearly is worth it.
 
Strip heat with individual thermostats for your heat and window unit ac's for your cooling work just fine in any modern enery efficient dwelling . The ac's are assembled under controlled conditions, not plumbed up by inexperienced techs. When a ac fails any tech can unplug and replace the unit for a minimal fee. The HVAC's have a place but not in a residential setting if cost and relaibilty are a concern.
 
Strip heat with individual thermostats for your heat and window unit ac's for your cooling work just fine in any modern enery efficient dwelling . The ac's are assembled under controlled conditions, not plumbed up by inexperienced techs. When a ac fails any tech can unplug and replace the unit for a minimal fee. The HVAC's have a place but not in a residential setting if cost and relaibilty are a concern.
Go into one of those factories , I highly doubt you get controlled conditions.

I'd wager it's close to the same as a field tech assembly.
 
Go into one of those factories , I highly doubt you get controlled conditions.

I'd wager it's close to the same as a field tech assembly.
Lol, at least I can get rid of the trouble by a visit to any ac vendor or piss money away hoping one can find a competent tech that will actually fix the problem. Too many scammers out there taking advantage of the unknowledgeable.
 
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Strip heat with individual thermostats for your heat and window unit ac's for your cooling work just fine in any modern enery efficient dwelling . The ac's are assembled under controlled conditions, not plumbed up by inexperienced techs. When a ac fails any tech can unplug and replace the unit for a minimal fee. The HVAC's have a place but not in a residential setting if cost and relaibilty are a concern.

What is Strip heat? I tried the google thing but came up with a mix of things.

As far as A/C we use a window unit. Have for years. Just bought a new one this year. A LG "duel inverter". Very quite compared to the ones years past.
 
@Bailey Boat ill be shopping for a major system upgrade soon. If you think your guy is the beez neez maybe I should have him give me a quote?
 
What is Strip heat?t.

Electric. I may be wrong, but it would be similar if not the same as the aux./emergency heating in a heat pump system.


usually in a heat pump it's labeled Aux or Emer heat. as a Heat pump loses the ability to transfer heat below about 40 deg. OAT.
In a standard AC unit. It will have Heat strips for the heat side of the system.

Same Same. just labeled differently for what system requires.
 
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