.357 mag reloading

Trevillian

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Just picked up my first .357 revolver a Smith 686 Ssr with 4" barrel.

Time to reload.

Looking for favorite recipes, usual projectiles, weight, etc. I don't cast my own "yet". But I don't even know the "usual" weight or style for this caliber.

I have a full setup for the Dillon 550 just have to swap it in.

For powder, I for sure have some Win 231 and Bullseye. Anything else I should try to pick up?

I'm thinking I'm going to load .38 power loads in .357 cases. Pros, cons, etc?

Drop some knowledge on me as I begin my research:)
 
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I like 2400 for full power loads but rarely shoot many of them. I generally use Unique or 231 with 125 grain lead/coated bullets for general plinking. The data in loading manuals should give you several choices for loading 357 down to less awesome levels. Find the bullet you want, find the speed you want it to go, and use the 357 data for that combination. I very rarely shoot 38 Special cases in my 357 Magnum firearms.
 
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I go with Unique, Red Dot or Clays for non-magnum ammo. Usually 125 or 158 grain cast lead. Check for cowboy action data if you want easy shooting.
I found the 105 g bullets did not give consistent ignition without filler. Usually small ball of cotton stuffed into case on top of powder.
Never tried Trail Boss.
CF
 
I have had inconsistent ignition with 105 grain lead bullets and Trail Boss but have been very pleased with that powder with heavier bullets.
 
I highly recommend Hytek Coated Bullets from Brazos, SNS Casting or Missouri. Clean and Accurate and much cheaper than Jacketed. You can run them as hot as jacketed if you so desire.
I prefer Universal for everyday .38/357 shooting, Bullseye or Tightgroup for wadcutters and H110 for the heavy stuff.
 
Standard bullet weights are 110-180, with 125/158 being the most common. I use Unique with my cast bullets. For full magnum loads look at 2400, H110/W296 (same powder just sold by two companies). I would suggest you start at the mid level loads starting out and working up. As a reloader you have full control on what you want the load to do.

CD
 
Stick to the manuals and work your own loads up, but...

My favorite 357 load is a 158gr cast semiwadcutter over 6gr Unique. This load has more balls than a 38 but is easy shooting.

In 38special, I like the same bullet over 4.2gr W231. If I remember correctly, this is a full charge, but I only shoot it from stout guns or as a defensive/woods load from an airweight.

That's 99% of what I load in these cartridges. My full magnum loads would be around a full charge of 2400 and a 158XTP. I didn't like H110 in 357, but love it in 44mag.
 
I don't remember the powder charges, but I use titegroup in 38 special cases with 158gr semi wadcutters, and Hornady H-110 with 158gr JHP's in 357 cases.

The wadcutters I load up to around 800-900 FPS, and the JHP's to about the midpoint of the chart in the Hornady load book. Both loads have done very well for me.
 
My favorite bullets for revolvers are Zero JSP bullets. They can be loaded as hot as you want, and also work well in my lever rifles in the same caliber. Prices are good, for jacketed bullets (less than 10 cents per). I've also used Hitek coated bullets from Bayou, for softer shooting loads.

For powders, I like 2400, or H110 for full throttle loads. If your gun has 6" or longer barrel, then you might consider 300-MP. The H110/W296 requires magnum primers, 2400 and 300-MP work best with regular primers. For good mid-range loads, I like BE86 the most, it is not case position sensitive like a lot of non-magnum powders are. For lighter loads, Clays or Trailboss.
 
You didn't ask about dies, but for crimping 357mag, I really recommend the Lee collet style die (not the normal factory-crimp die). This die does not depend as much on consistent trim lengths as regular roll-crimp dies do. The only downside is that it won't work with 38spl brass, and they don't make a collet die for 38.
 
I've been doing the .38 loads in .357 cases for about 35 years... It keeps that hard fouling ring from forming in chamber in the space between where a .38 ends and the length off a .357.

I use 3.4 gr of W231 (with a standard primer) under a 158 or 125 gr bullet as a target load. I've used lead SWCs and and the 125 grBlue Bullet RNs. It's a great popgun load. Very accurate in my gun.

5.1 gr of W231 is a good full .38 load.

About 13 gr of 2400 (with a magnum primer) under a 158 gr jacketed SP was my 'normal' full .357 load. Start at 11 and work up, looking for any primer cratering, etc.

I've been using these loads for about 35 years in an original S&W 586 6", most of my brass is that old too!

Roll crimp if there is a groove, very slight taper crimp on Blue Bullets
 
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You didn't ask about dies, but for crimping 357mag, I really recommend the Lee collet style die (not the normal factory-crimp die). This die does not depend as much on consistent trim lengths as regular roll-crimp dies do. The only downside is that it won't work with 38spl brass, and they don't make a collet die for 38.


I have a Dillon carbide set. Not sure what type of crimp it uses. Haven't even pulled em out of the box yet. I use a Lee roll crimp die for my other calibers. But that is good info, I will look into one, thanks.
 
Standard bullet weights are 110-180, with 125/158 being the most common. I use Unique with my cast bullets. For full magnum loads look at 2400, H110/W296 (same powder just sold by two companies). I would suggest you start at the mid level loads starting out and working up. As a reloader you have full control on what you want the load to do.

CD
Right. Thanks.



I've been reloading for just 4-5 years. So always appreciate any and all advice.

I always start from near the bottom up with any load. I'm after just two loads for each caliber usually. One as cheap/accurate as I can get it while matching POA of the other for plinking. Then a "premium" load with a nicer projectile for pure accuracy and/or hunting.

Never cared about how hot or fast I can get a load. Consistent and accurate are my goals.

Any loads offered up here I will use as a reference point. As I work to and past that point I take note that others had good luck there. Then keep doing my own work ups. To many variables for one load to work for every user:)

Keep the info flowing. It's much appreciated gang:)
 
Right. Thanks.



I've been reloading for just 4-5 years. So always appreciate any and all advice.

I always start from near the bottom up with any load. I'm after just two loads for each caliber usually. One as cheap/accurate as I can get it while matching POA of the other for plinking. Then a "premium" load with a nicer projectile for pure accuracy and/or hunting.

Never cared about how hot or fast I can get a load. Consistent and accurate are my goals.

Any loads offered up here I will use as a reference point. As I work to and past that point I take note that others had good luck there. Then keep doing my own work ups. To many variables for one load to work for every user:)

Keep the info flowing. It's much appreciated gang:)
My log books are at home but all within reloading manuals. What type of gun are you shooting out of. 2" Smith J frame , 5" Coonan or 20" Marlin 1894? (revolver, semi auto or rifle). Accurate loads are going to be what your gun likes however. What are you looking at poking for hunting? I deer hunt with a TC Contender 10" in .357. IIRC my load for the TC consisted of a Hornady 158 XTP under H110, never was lucky enough to be in the right place/time carrying it however. The TC has killed several gray squirrels with some reloads in .357 cases using Speer shotshells with #6 under a dose of Unique. That TC barrel is one of the older Hot Shots barrels that has a choke that stops projo spin. Can keep a 6" pattern at 15 yds firing those shotshells. My plinking load is a 158 gr LSWC under Unique.

CD
 
My log books are at home but all within reloading manuals. What type of gun are you shooting out of. 2" Smith J frame , 5" Coonan or 20" Marlin 1894? (revolver, semi auto or rifle). Accurate loads are going to be what your gun likes however. What are you looking at poking for hunting? I deer hunt with a TC Contender 10" in .357. IIRC my load for the TC consisted of a Hornady 158 XTP under H110, never was lucky enough to be in the right place/time carrying it however. The TC has killed several gray squirrels with some reloads in .357 cases using Speer shotshells with #6 under a dose of Unique. That TC barrel is one of the older Hot Shots barrels that has a choke that stops projo spin. Can keep a 6" pattern at 15 yds firing those shotshells. My plinking load is a 158 gr LSWC under Unique.

CD

Good point. I'll edit my OP too.

I'm loading for a Smith 686 ssr. It's either a 4" or 4.5" barrel.

Not planning to hunt but plan to work up a load to carry as a woods companion.

Contenders are awesome. A friend hasone with several barrels, makes me jelly lol.
 
You are not getting 4028 fps, I can guarantee you. Probably had the chrono too close to the muzzle.
 
This thread had me looking through some of my chrono data. Check out these pissin hot loads from my 686. The spread isn't so good though.
View attachment 215323

I would like to know the powder and charge that got a 158 grain bullet to 4,028. I assume the 4,028 is feet per seconds. I would take those loads and shoot them out of my Winchester M92 the next time I went elk hunting. I might even consider using that same combination if I ever went after coastal brown bears in Alaska.
 
It says right there, 4028fps. Its a pretty long barrel.
So your saying your pushing a 158g projectile to speeds that are the realm of just a very few .17-.22 caliber varmit rounds? Out of a pistol case?

Dude... Your teasing us right;)
 
H110 for heavy magnum loads, Unique for plinking.

I shoot 000s of .38s out of my .357s using WST powder, 231 or Bullseye is fine too for light loads.

Unique is very versatile in .38 and .357, I have several pounds and loads across the spectrum.

I won't publish my max end 180 gr Ruger loads but they are hammers with XTPs and LBTs using H110.
Gotta get the new chrono out and clock these from my 4" GP100 and 6.5" Blackhawk.
 
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