Workbench - First woodworking project.... questions!

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I saw a post by @drypowder in @HMP 's workbench thread a little while back. dry posted this video of a nice looking DIY workbench.


I've seen it before and was going to try it out. He has a more detailed description of parts here too: https://diyforknuckleheads.com/build-workbench/

It seems pretty straight forward. While I don't have a Miter saw for nice, easy 45* cuts, I should be able to figure it out.

However, I am a bit confused about how he does the legs. He describes it at the 1:15 mark in the video.

He puts two 2x4's (Aussie equivalent) together and then cuts a "checkout" on one of them. Then does another "checkout" on the other. This leaves about half a 2x4's width to secure the legs to the top. I get that the top rests on the legs now, but it seems like he removed a lot of material to secure the top and legs together. Especially since he puts two bolts and 3 screws into the now smaller part of the 2x4. Shown at the 6:55 mark in the video.

Being a complete beginner (level 0), I wonder if this matters at all?
Also, why not use a 4x4 instead of attaching two 2x4's together?
Lastly, will the top be strong enough to secure a vise too?


Thanks!
 
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You'll be gaining load strength ( weight going down onto the leg) setting the top 2x4 onto the leg like that. the joint in America is called a half-lap. The fasteners are just holding the pieces in place.
and there will not be any shear load onto the bolts.

If you used 4x4 you'd have to cut that ' half-lap" joint into the top of the leg.

If you are able to get 2 bolts of the bench vice onto the Top stretcher thru the ply top. yeah. it will hold a vice no problem. Watch that the vice handle does not hit the edge of the top when screwed all the way in.
You could also add a piece or two of 2x4 under the top at the vice location to bolt thru too.
 
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You'll be gaining load strength ( weight going down onto the leg) setting the top 2x4 onto the leg like that. the joint in America is called a half-lap. The fasteners are just holding the pieces in place.
and there will not be any shear load onto the bolts.

If you used 4x4 you'd have to cut that ' half-lap" joint into the top of the leg.

If you are able to get 2 bolts of the bench vice onto the Top stretcher thru the ply top. yeah. it will hold a vice no problem. Watch that the vice handle does not hit the edge of the top when screwed all the way in.
You could also add a piece or two of 2x4 under the top at the vice location to bolt thru too.
I see I'm not needed here.

One thing, You don't really need to do a 45 degree mitered top rail, a butt joint will be as strong. Just put the long piece at the front for aesthetics sake.
 
Awesome, thank you guys! I really appreciate it!

Half-lap, got it! That would explain the futility of searching for "checkout", lol.

Another newb question, why do 4x's warp and rack and the 2x4's won't? .... also what does "rack" mean? :D

Should I build this thing out of cedar?! ;)
 
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Awesome, thank you guys! I really appreciate it!

Half-lap, got it! That would explain the futility of searching for "checkout", lol.

Another newb question, why do 4x's warp and rack and the 2x4's won't? .... also what does "rack" mean? :D

Should I build this thing out of cedar?! ;)
2X4's do warp as much or more than 4X4's. The difference is that 2 2X4's stacked together will hopefully warp in different directions cancelling each other out.

The warpage of a 4X4 in a 3' span will be negligible so don't sweat it.

Racking is a spiral warp, or a twist.
 
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For an improvement on that design you could extend the edge banding 1/4" above the table top and cut piece of hardboard to fit inside it. That is for when you booger up the surface and you can just cut a fresh top and lay it in.
 
My first suggestion is find another video. There are a ton out there. All good advice given here in previous replies.
 
My first suggestion is find another video. There are a ton out there. All good advice given here in previous replies.
There are definitely a lot of videos out there. This one seemed to be fairly straightforward and a nice bench when done. Do you have any other suggestions for videos to look at?
 
There are definitely a lot of videos out there. This one seemed to be fairly straightforward and a nice bench when done. Do you have any other suggestions for videos to look at?

I'm sorry man. I totally missed your question.

This is the holy grail of work benches it seems. Most are made from Paul Sellers design from what I understand. I will say he is an amazing craftsman even if you don't build his bench, you can learn a ton from him. I like that he seems down to earth. You don't need a $1000 dollar set of Japanese chisels, this $13 set from Aldi will do the trick.

https://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork/search?query=work+bench
 
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I'm sorry man. I totally missed your question.

This is the holy grail of work benches it seems. Most are made from Paul Sellers design from what I understand. I will say he is an amazing craftsman even if you don't build his bench, you can learn a ton from him. I like that he seems down to earth. You don't need a $1000 dollar set of Japanese chisels, this $13 set from Aldi will do the trick.

https://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork/search?query=work+bench
Wow, Paul is a true artist and craftsman! I spent way too much time watching a bunch of his videos! I watched his original bench video set, the newer bench videos and several others. I think his bench, which is amazing, is a bit out of my time and skills at the moment. Maybe if I can not bugger up this other one, I can try something that cool! Heck I don't have enough or high quality enough clamps to even do the first glue stage, lol!

I didn't see the chisels from Aldi, but I did get three Lee Valley bevel edged chisels (1/4", 1/2", 1") that don't look like they were ever used from an in-law. Hopefully those will work well.
 
I did get three Lee Valley bevel edged chisels (1/4", 1/2", 1") that don't look like they were ever used from an in-law. Hopefully those will work well.

Look up Scary Sharp with sandpaper for chisels.. Very easy.
 
Found another great video. This guy has some nice equipment and put together a nice shop in his garage. A lot of comments talking about his production quality as well as the bench. Seems like it would be fairly difficult to build without all that equipment though, or very time consuming at the least. Still pretty cool! I am sticking with the knucklehead one for now though, lol.

 
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Found another great video. This guy has some nice equipment and put together a nice shop in his garage. A lot of comments talking about his production quality as well as the bench. Seems like it would be fairly difficult to build without all that equipment though, or very time consuming at the least. Still pretty cool! I am sticking with the knucklehead one for now though, lol.



That is his old shop... Jay is pretty good. Kind of an eclectic fella but I'd love to meet him one day.
 
I see I'm not needed here.

One thing, You don't really need to do a 45 degree mitered top rail, a butt joint will be as strong. Just put the long piece at the front for aesthetics sake.
Should have taken JR's advice. I tried doing the 45* cuts with a circular saw. Apparently I suck at them. Despite everything measuring correctly and all the angles looking good with the angle measuring tools I have, nothing fits together correctly, lol!

So back to get a couple more crooked 2x4's and doing butt joints as I should have in the beginning. ... or maybe to get a Miter Saw... nah. :p
 
Should have taken JR's advice. I tried doing the 45* cuts with a circular saw. Apparently I suck at them. Despite everything measuring correctly and all the angles looking good with the angle measuring tools I have, nothing fits together correctly, lol!

So back to get a couple more crooked 2x4's and doing butt joints as I should have in the beginning. ... or maybe to get a Miter Saw... nah. :p
Not sure of you're cutting angles or bevels but either way a speed square really helps. Use it as a guide against the bed of your circular saw.
71LUUPgHnlL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
Not sure of you're cutting angles or bevels but either way a speed square really helps. Use it as a guide against the bed of your circular saw.
View attachment 223405
I used that exact square! ;)
I think I am cutting bevels?? Still learning the terminology. 2x4 flat on the "4" side and cutting with the circular saw set at a 45* using the speed square as a guide. Had it clamped to the 2x4.
 
I used that exact square! ;)
I think I am cutting bevels?? Still learning the terminology. 2x4 flat on the "4" side and cutting with the circular saw set at a 45* using the speed square as a guide. Had it clamped to the 2x4.
Sounds like you're doing it right, man. If you scribe a straight line, set the saw bed to the correct angle and use the square as a guide, not much can go wrong. You're probably just being too hard on yourself.

It's a work bench...finish it and do some work on it...you'll appreciate it more then.
 
I agree with @LizardKing , sounds like you have the set up.
Try cutting a little slower and be mindful of not twisting the saw and keeping it flat against he wood.

Got pics of your set up?
 
Sounds like you're doing it right, man. If you scribe a straight line, set the saw bed to the correct angle and use the square as a guide, not much can go wrong. You're probably just being too hard on yourself.

It's a work bench...finish it and do some work on it...you'll appreciate it more then.
I wish I was just being too hard on myself! I tried to square up two corners from both the inside edges and outside edges. If I made them square, the beveled surfaces didn't sit flush against each other. If I made the beveled surfaces flush, then the opposite ends of the 2x4s were at least 2 inches farther apart then they should have been, lol! :oops:

I agree with @LizardKing , sounds like you have the set up.
Try cutting a little slower and be mindful of not twisting the saw and keeping it flat against he wood.

Got pics of your set up?
sawhorses.jpg
It is just a couple of collapsable sawhorses with a 2x6 clamped across them. Using the end of the 2x6 as a sacrificial piece when cutting the 2x4s. Nothing fancy!

Cut.jpg
Cut boards that I was proud of, at one point in time. lol!

However, I may get a couple more and give it one more try. I will go slower and make sure I am keeping everything straight. Maybe put another 2x4 next to the one I am cutting to help keep the saw flat? Or one on each side? Scrap pieces of course, just to make sure I am being as level/even as possible.
 
How far off were the cuts if just a little it maybe from the twisted lumber you mentioned and you just need to spring it back into place with clamps or screws. Just My experience the slower i try to make a cut the more curved it ends up being. If i go ahead and make it without forceing it it turns out better.
 
Perfect miters are hard to pull off, even with a good miter saw.

It's like an old boss said when he was watching a demo of some saw that cut 2 45%s. Now do it 3 more times and see if they meet up.
 
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Could I use a box joint for the 2x4 frame pieces? Like this:
BoxJointJig10-56aa2bf63df78cf772acef90.jpg

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-make-perfect-box-joints-3537042

I would have to do it with the circular saw and a chisel obviously, but would that be better/stronger than just gluing and screwing butt joints.
 
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