Polymer Frames

I'm interested in this one, as well.
 
Today, I was finally able to spend some quality time on this build. Including a dremel, here are my supplies:




Using a dremel and files, I was able to level the polymer to the jig. I took my time and it was a 35 minute job.






Begin sanding with 600 grit.



Smoothed rough edges with diamond files and 1000grit and wd40. Holes drilled and bits were provided, BUT I used a 3mm bit for the small holes because the kit contained a 7/64 bit and people complained it was too small for the pins. The 3mm worked perfectly and the pins are a perfect fit.







Completed a function test on the trigger and something is not right. It squeezes and fires, but feels incomplete.




I saw this video on YouTube and this explains and corrects my trigger problem.




Finally, I ran into this problem.



I bent the slide release spring pretty bad, while inserting the slide release. A failed function check and I removed it. Tried reshaping it, and I couldn't make it work.
Didn't attempt to connect the upper because I didn't want to create or compound the problem.

Assembly Glock parts in this lower wasn't difficult, but they are a few things to know. The locking block has rails, and is provided in the kit with two tiny screws. You must remove the raised plastic on the rails in that area because the locking block will not fit. Everything fits tight, including the trigger mechanism. Highly recommend using a 3mm bit for the small 2 pin holes. Function check is your friend. Finally, be patient because it is a process and isn't a simple drop in kit.

Tomorrow, I will make the polymer adjustments to correct the trigger, Order a replacement spring, and will smooth out the rear slide area to prepare to fit the upper.

Total time working on this was 3hrs
 
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Today, I was finally able to spend some quality time on this build. Including a dremel, here are my supplies:




Using a dremel and files, I was able to level the polymer to the jig. I took my time and it was a 35 minute job.






Begin sanding with 600 grit.



Smoothed rough edges with diamond files and 1000grit and wd40. Holes drilled and bits were provided, BUT I used a 3mm bit for the small holes because the kit contained a 7/64 bit and people complained it was too small for the pins. The 3mm worked perfectly and the pins are a perfect fit.







Completed a function test on the trigger and something is not right. It squeezes and fires, but feels incomplete.




I saw this video on YouTube and this explains and corrects my trigger problem.




Finally, I ran into this problem.



I bent the slide release spring pretty bad, while inserting the slide release. A failed function check and I removed it. Tried reshaping it, and I couldn't make it work.
Didn't attempt to connect the upper because I didn't want to create or compound the problem.

Assembly Glock parts in this lower wasn't difficult, but they are a few things to know. The locking block has rails, and is provided in the kit with two tiny screws. You must remove the raised plastic on the rails in that area because the locking block will not fit. Everything fits tight, including the trigger mechanism. Highly recommend using a 3mm bit for the small 2 pin holes. Function check is your friend. Finally, be patient because it is a process and isn't a simple drop in kit.

Tomorrow, I will make the polymer adjustments to correct the trigger, Order a replacement spring, and will smooth out the rear slide area to prepare to fit the upper.

Total time working on this was 3hrs

Very interesting! And thanks for the write up John
 
Very interesting! And thanks for the write up John

I hope this will be helpful to everyone. It is definitely a learning process for me. I have a complete G19 and plan to do a second build on their compact frame, which has metal rear frames.

These kits are driving the crazy increase in Glock's uppers and parts.
 
Thanks for the post. Good stuff to know. Keep em coming!
 
I highly recommend the PF940c frames. They are a complete redesign from the G17 frames and they seem to have fixed all of the teething issues the 17's had. The rear frame rail is stainless and it comes with a pin for the front locking block instead of a set screw. The new design incorporates a bunch of stuff people pay big money to have customized on their factory Glocks. Double undercut trigger guard, bigger beavertail, Pictinanny rail, scooped and relieved mag release. From what I can tell, they are ESP and CCP legal for IDPA too.
 

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I highly recommend the PF940c frames. They are a complete redesign from the G17 frames and they seem to have fixed all of the teething issues the 17's had. The rear frame rail is stainless and it comes with a pin for the front locking block instead of a set screw. The new design incorporates a bunch of stuff people pay big money to have customized on their factory Glocks. Double undercut trigger guard, bigger beavertail, Pictinanny rail, scooped and relieved mag release. From what I can tell, they are ESP and CCP legal for IDPA too.

Very nice. I ordered that frame, last night.
 
ok, I just ordered one from brownells, smooth, probably will just put a talon grip on it since I know I like those.

use code LDD for $10 bucks off and free shipping (~18 bucks off) came to 139
 
S0zsLcL.jpg
I have built both the 940 and the 940c. As you can see in the pic I dont use the fwd rail screws in the frame. Had some problems trying to use a Zev Fulcrum trigger kit in the full size that made it go full auto on me when the trigger should be in reset. NOT GOOD. Put in a stock trigger with a 3.5 connector and 4lb springs to correct the problem. Has some problems with it not wanting to go fully into battery sometimes which required some more sanding & polishing. Finally I added a 19lb recoil spring and it runs great. The compact had some issues with the steel rear rails not being bent exactly straight. Had to bend them down and do a small amount of filing on both them and the front rails to align everything just right. I bought the slides from P80 and as you see a comparison between a stock G19 slide and the P80 slide that there was a little quality control issue with the machining of the slide. No clearance for the safety rod hole next to the striker pin hole. Their customer service was good and when I sent them this pic they immediately sent me out a new slide. IMG_0274.JPG IMG_1120.JPG IMG_1073.JPG
 
With diamond flat and round files, I was able to fit the upper G22 fairly easy. Once I could slide the upper backwards on the lower rear slide, I knew I was really close.

Switch to 600 grit and finished with 1000 grit & wd40. Added additional lube to the connecting points on the slide.





For the first 10-15 racks, I had to tap the slide forward.


I was considering another round of light sanding, and then RACK. The slide now returns without assistance.

Total working time 60 minutes.
 
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@Partsfreak

Nice builds. I was fearful of using non OEM parts because I didn't have the confidence or experience. I also had a box of unused OEM parts, especially for compact Glocks.
 
I like it. Wish they would do a big group buy. I'll get one soon.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
S0zsLcL.jpg
I have built both the 940 and the 940c. As you can see in the pic I dont use the fwd rail screws in the frame. Had some problems trying to use a Zev Fulcrum trigger kit in the full size that made it go full auto on me when the trigger should be in reset. NOT GOOD. Put in a stock trigger with a 3.5 connector and 4lb springs to correct the problem. Has some problems with it not wanting to go fully into battery sometimes which required some more sanding & polishing. Finally I added a 19lb recoil spring and it runs great. The compact had some issues with the steel rear rails not being bent exactly straight. Had to bend them down and do a small amount of filing on both them and the front rails to align everything just right. I bought the slides from P80 and as you see a comparison between a stock G19 slide and the P80 slide that there was a little quality control issue with the machining of the slide. No clearance for the safety rod hole next to the striker pin hole. Their customer service was good and when I sent them this pic they immediately sent me out a new slide. View attachment 11726 View attachment 11727 View attachment 11725


I had similar problems with their g19 slide. The first one they sent me had a spot on the inside of the slide where the barrel hood contacted it really tight and would hang up. I put calipers on it and it was 3MM thicker than a stock slide. CS was great and they even told me to not take my sights off it, they would do it and send me a new slide. The second slide had the same machining error and this is how they installed the rear sight......They make great polymer products, but I can't recommend their machining.

 
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I had similar problems with their g19 slide. The first one they sent me had a spot on the inside of the slide where the barrel hood contacted it really tight and would hang up. I put calipers on it and it was 3MM thicker than a stock slide. CS was great and they even told me to not take my sights off it, they would do it and send me a new slide. The second slide had the same machining error and this is how they installed the rear sight......They make great polymer products, but I can't recommend their machining.



Whoa!! WTF!!!

Gun builders who don't know which way a rear sight goes are not likely to inspire a lot of confidence!
 
Yeah......I sent them a picture and politely asked for my money back. To their credit, I did get a call from one of the owners. I got the impression they don't actually manufacture the slides, but he did not come out and actually say that. My guess is a machinist with zero gun experience is making the slides to a spec and he was the one who did the sights. The return tag went to somewhere in CO and Polymer80 is in NV/AZ area, so who knows who actually did it.
 
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I had similar problems with their g19 slide. The first one they sent me had a spot on the inside of the slide where the barrel hood contacted it really tight and would hang up. I put calipers on it and it was 3MM thicker than a stock slide. CS was great and they even told me to not take my sights off it, they would do it and send me a new slide. The second slide had the same machining error and this is how they installed the rear sight......They make great polymer products, but I can't recommend their machining.

Wow. They cant install sights any better than machine work apparently.
 
Where are you or those building/ built glocks, where do you get the other parts

I was thinking a lone wolf blank for the slide
What's a good lower parts kit that won't break the bank
 
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Where are you or those building/ built flicks, where do you get the other parts

I was thinking a lone wolf blank for the slide
What's a good lower parts kit that won't break the bank

A few options for lowers:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/974065/glock-frame-parts-kit-glock-17-9mm-luger

Ebay has lower kits and uppers.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-KIT-G...%3A8031682515c0a860b4f09888fffaa59e%7Ciid%3A1

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Glock-22-GEN-...3A8031682515c0a860b4f09888fffaa59e%7Ciid%3A12

Also, gunbroker has lower kit and uppers.

I prefer to use OEM with this project.
 
Where are you or those building/ built glocks, where do you get the other parts

I was thinking a lone wolf blank for the slide
What's a good lower parts kit that won't break the bank
I am a Glock Armorer so I can buy everything but the slides direct from Glock at cost. Kits are available at alot of the aftermarket Glock online shops tho pretty resonable.
 
An "aggressive texture" frame is now available at Brownells: http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...ture-for-glock-19-23-32-black-prod105856.aspx

I plan to pick up a few around the 4th -- just want to make sure they aren't discounted for the 4th! :)

Also, Brownells also has other colors (some in-stock, some pre-order) including Coyote (brown), FDE, OD Green, and Grey.

Also, if you plan to buy any in bulk, Rainier Arms members get them (just standard Black Textured and ReadyMod)for $121.87 a pop.
 
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I highly recommend the PF940c frames. They are a complete redesign from the G17 frames and they seem to have fixed all of the teething issues the 17's had. The rear frame rail is stainless and it comes with a pin for the front locking block instead of a set screw. The new design incorporates a bunch of stuff people pay big money to have customized on their factory Glocks. Double undercut trigger guard, bigger beavertail, Pictinanny rail, scooped and relieved mag release. From what I can tell, they are ESP and CCP legal for IDPA too.
I like that!

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