Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24 review

11B CIB

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I got interested in the LPVO’s recently after having some time with the Mercon Mk1 1-6x and a Steiner PX4i 1-4x. I wondered just how accurate these online reviews were, since my experience with the former seemed to drastically differ from a paid reviewer (surprise surprise), so I wanted to see how it compared to something in the sub $5-600 range. Side note, the Mercon was VERY clear from 3-6x and was very similar to the Vortex Razor HD II in terms of the large wall-to-wall sight picture at 6x. My other gripes were too glaring for me to trade off the bad for the good.

Moving on, the Strike Eagle (16.5oz) is just under the upper end of the weight range I feel is ideal. With the Vortex SPR mount (6.7oz), 23.2oz is fairly hefty for the type of rifle I envision this optic on. The Aero Precision Mount is right around 3oz and is a lighter weight alternative, getting in under my high water mark of 20oz.

A cursory inspection shows that the finish is even and in good shape, I don’t see any floaters or imperfections in the glass, the adjustment knobs have good tactile clicks with 1/2 MOA increments (not a precision scope, so this is not surprising), and the illumination dial is stout enough that it likely won’t turn on and die in a rifle case. Underneath the windage cap there’s a holder for a spare battery which is convenient:

Vdz9vJB.jpg


You can see the little slot on the elevation turret at the 10 position. This is for a screwdriver to rotate the number dial around to match the 0 with the reference mark on the threads. This is a simple solution and I have to say, it’s a little awkward to perform. I like Vortex’s spring loaded “lift to disengage” return to zero turrets like on the Viper 6.5-20x platform.

Mounted:

kGVOkoc.jpg


Range time

I wanted to use off the shelf ammo with this review so my handloads wouldn’t skew the results. I first zeroed it at 100 yards for the benchmark test then zeroed at 50yds because the manual had a 50/200yd zero with a 1st holdover drop for 300yds.

At 100 yards, the center dot is still a decent size that it’s not blocking the target. Your POA is easily repeated. Based on the first photo, I’ll bring up the illumination. Vortex claims 150 hours of battery life but doesn’t specify at what strength, from 1 to 11. Once again, illumination on this LPVO was an issue. Even at 11, in full sun, it was enough to give you some contrast from the target but it wasn’t enough. The low settings 1&2 were pretty useless even in the dark of night.


Targets at 100 yards:

1x:
BXe7yXD.jpg


4x:
2Xa9XhW.jpg


8x:
F764t1k.jpg



There was a small amount of distortion/light bending on 1x, but not nearly as significant as I was expecting. I have experienced more distortion on higher priced LPVO’s without a doubt. The “ring” in the optic coupled with the 4 MOA dot make a decent quick kill reticle for close quarters work but the body of the scope that projects around the ocular lens can obstruct the shooters view. I found it best to use both eyes open to mitigate that, but not everyone based on their vision can do this.

As to be expected, 8x has got some haze to it that is unavoidable (thus far) in 1-6/8x magnification entry level scopes. It is sufficient for positively IDing targets and making kills (on paper, people, or deer/hogs) at 300 yards (maybe further, my range maxes out at 300)

It doesn’t have a raised bump or integrated throw lever, and it really needs an aftermarket one, if only to help with quick adjustments without having to look.

I zeroed at 100yds like I previously mentioned with good results:
AQF1j8J.jpg


The BDC2 reticle in the scope is designed for use with 77gr bullets. It also says the 50/200 zero is ideal and the hash marks will translate to the prescribed yardage. I rezeroed at 50 yards and moved a target to 200yds and aimed directly at a POA reference made from target pasters.

Two things became apparent. At 200yds, the reticle is now too large for precise shooting. I fired two three round groups, with a brief pause due to a gust of wind really rocking the paper. The groups were high by about 2”. The wind pushed my second group a tad but all in all, I was pleased with my shooting.

I repeated the previous paragraph at 300 yards. This was tricky.

5UgePq9.jpg


As you can see, the center dot in the reticle and the crosshairs are substantially larger than the POA reference. Based on the manual, with the 50/200 zero, the first stadia line should be on the money. I knew center POA/POI ended up high at 200, but I wanted to do it by the book and not the Kentucky method.

Again, POI was high, this time around 6” over POA. This could be due to several factors (see below photo)

okzgMAT.jpg


My ammo could be moving faster than that which was used for the scope’s calibration but I’m leaning more towards my next guess.

Due to holding over versus dialing the elevation, my holds were likely inconsistent due to the thickness of the reticle compared to the the target

PART 2 (Short update about low light usage)

I wanted to do some night testing to see what worked and what didn’t.

Settings 1 & 2 were visible but only just so. I could see use on these settings when hunting and you don’t want the reticle messing with your visibility on target

Setting 1 in my garage
T2aeFG1.jpg


Settings 6/7 were good when used with white light when there’s a lot of reflected light
ta3XNA1.jpg


I read about the 1-6x Strike Eagle having some light spill out the front in the dark when on Setting 11... well, setting 11 in the dark would be blinding from the shooters perspective, and I think they added something on the inside to help mitigate light emitting from the front on the eight power model, because I could see the light when I put my eye close to the objective and made a point to seek it out, but otherwise it was on par with other large illuminated reticles I’ve used.



Overall thoughts:

This is a solid scope that’s backed by Vortex’s standard lifetime warranty. The intended user is someone who’s on a budget, and I don’t mean that negatively at all, or someone who wants a capable scope who isn’t living the Razor HD 2 lifestyle. For the price point, with a scope that isn’t cheaply made has to have a sacrifice somewhere and getting that extra bit of magnification in there, the clarity of the image does suffer. I’m not saying avoid the scope, but be aware when you are considering it and see if that’s an acceptable compromise.

These scopes do go on sale, and as of this posting was available online with a mount for $280. I believe at that price point what you get IS a good value, and I would feel fine recommending the purchase then. But for $500...I don’t think I could tell someone on the fence about it to make the buy. A higher quality 1-4 at the same price would be the better buy despite the lesser magnification.

Bottom line: while this scope may not be for everyone, it does have a place and will allow a lot of people to outfit their rifles without going over budget (especially if you buy it on sale!)
 
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Do me a solid please.

At 300yds dial on the dope.

At 1x, 4x and 8x shoot 10rnds for each magnifying setting on its own cardboard.

On that cardboard go 5 MOA with a + aiming section. Aim at the center of +

This will allow us to see the POI shift
 
Do me a solid please.

At 300yds dial on the dope.

At 1x, 4x and 8x shoot 10rnds for each magnifying setting on its own cardboard.

On that cardboard go 5 MOA with a + aiming section. Aim at the center of +

This will allow us to see the POI shift

I can give that a shot the next time I’m out there BUT the impact shift I was trying to demonstrate was based on Vortex’s instructions for their BDC reticle with the ammunition they specified, as this is not really a “dial it in” kind of optic.

I could’ve almost taken dead aim at 300 rather than using the hashmark. If I had put the center reticle dot on top of the target dot (like a number 8, not covering it up) I think it would’ve been closer than the

With 1/2 MOA adjustments and a 4 MOA center dot, 1x @ 300 yards won’t be the easiest.
 
Ah, now eventually you do plan to post part II of your... of your two part review, right? Hello? Hello? Yes?

0.jpg
 
I think it’s VERY telling that they went on sale for so cheap. $280 with a mount is nearly throw away $ when talking about optics. It’s a great deal for some definitely...but it tells me that aren’t getting traction in their initial target market. 50% discounts on current model products is not a great sign.

It’s either a sign of a tanking market in general or a product that isn’t being well received overall.

That is my completely unqualified, uninformed opinion.
 
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Ah, now eventually you do plan to post part II of your... of your two part review, right? Hello? Hello? Yes?

0.jpg

I already did when I wrote “updated”.

It’s in bold with PART TWO in the original post

It’s mostly low light stuff and overall thoughts.
 
I already did when I wrote “updated”.

It’s in bold with PART TWO in the original post

It’s mostly low light stuff and overall thoughts.

How in the heck did I miss that? :confused:

LMAO....
 
Big fan of Vortex above the Crossfire models. I have never liked the reticle of the StrikeEagle. Leave the center dot size, lose the dashed horseshoe, and reduce the bdc lines thickness. I understand the reasoning for the design but the average guy does not clear rooms.

Can’t believe they are selling at that price point. But even at that point I can’t get over the reticle. I suspect the 1-4 and 1-6 purchases didn’t influence future perspective buyers and a very soft AR market the last two years. From a marketing point I think selling cheap makes buyers think it is cheap (quality).
 
Good review and quite fair. Price/performance is the meat on the bone.
It's just such a low price point. I had the SE 1x6 and for the money it was good as well. Hard to find an entry scope suitable for say, 3 gun, that works, and has a great warranty.

Opinion: man I hate these clunky overdone lit up reticles. Doesn't need a donut, doesn't need the tree thingy. Give me fine crosshairs and an illuminated tight very bright center dot ONLY (Like a Steiner or Razor or PST). Then give me a simple BDC or basic hashes.

11B CIB , you should check out the 1-6x24 Viper PST. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.
 
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Good review and quite fair. Price/performance is the meat on the bone.
It's just such a low price point. I had the SE 1x6 and for the money it was good as well. Hard to find an entry scope suitable for say, 3 gun, that works, and has a great warranty.

Opinion: man I hate these clunky overdone lit up reticles. Doesn't need a donut, doesn't need the tree thingy. Give me fine crosshairs and an illuminated tight very bright center dot ONLY (Like a Steiner or Razor or PST). Then give me a simple BDC or basic hashes.

11B CIB , you should check out the 1-x24 Viper PST. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.

The reticle you bring up is 99% of whats offered.

I see these LPVO over 4x as hold over scopes. If a shooter is not holding at distance then a 1-4 is all they need. The 6x, 8x is to give a better fov for holds.
 
The reticle you bring up is 99% of whats offered.

I see these LPVO over 4x as hold over scopes. If a shooter is not holding at distance then a 1-4 is all they need. The 6x, 8x is to give a better fov for holds.


Better field of view? My Burris XTR II 1-8x narrows the FOV as the magnification increases. Can you fill me in on what you mean?
 
Better field of view? My Burris XTR II 1-8x narrows the FOV as the magnification increases. Can you fill me in on what you mean?

Great question.

So for a unit of measure reticle to work the value must have proper subtension to its correct value.

This is why a SFP optic's reticle only subtends at one setting, and a FFP optic is married to the FOV in the whole range of adjustment.

If i want to see a reticle with my shooting eye, it must be set to subtend at a size. For the hell of it we will call that size .1

Now if i have a SFP 1-4 and .1 is only .1 at 4x then at 1x .1 is now 4x as thick. Because the FOV has adjusted wider, but the reticle is fixed to only subtend at the narrow FOV.

This is why a LPVO up to 4x a unit of measure reticle is so damn fine its useless for anything faster then slow as hell. In context, the reticle needs to be pleasing to the eye at 4x and 1x.

"We see this conversation in this review on how "thick" the reticle is" the thickness = subtend value for all power settings based on FOV.

If I have a SFP 1-6, the FOV is narrower at 6x but my reticle is still .1. The .1 is thinner etched in comparison to a .1 for a 4x optic. The lines are both subtending .1 realitive to each optics FOV at the top end for a SFP and the whole range in a FFP.

Same is true for a 8x. That .1 is etched even thinner for the 8x fov. But still a .1 in value realitive to the FOV.

Now for a small test. If i had a FOV of 100ft wide at 100yds at 8x the 1. Valued in MIL.

Lets say i requested the manufacturer to restrict the FOV by 50%.

The reticle at 8x will still hold the value of .1 mil because its subtends. The retaliative image to my eye is twice as thick. Because the reticle is married to the FOV.

This is why when people buy a optic and want VXY reticle in a 5-25 and think, man thats great. Then go buy a VXY in a 2.5-10 and HATE IT

Keep in mind if that .1 is in MIL at 100yds it must mesurme out to .36"

The .36" is thick or thin based on how much FOV the optic has..
 
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The reticle you bring up is 99% of whats offered.

I see these LPVO over 4x as hold over scopes. If a shooter is not holding at distance then a 1-4 is all they need. The 6x, 8x is to give a better fov for holds.

So, out of 100 scopes in the price range of an SE 1-8, 99 of them has the reticle I want?

Can you give me a couple examples?
 
Great question.

So for a unit of measure reticle to work the value must subtend to is correct value.

This is why a SFP optic's reticle only subtends at one setting, and a FFP optic is married to the FOV in the whole range of adjustment.

If i want to see a reticle with my shooting eye, it must be set to subtend at a size. For the hell of it we will call that size .1

Now if i have a SFP 1-4 and .1 is only .1 at 4x then at 1x .1 is now 4x as thick. Because the FOV has adjusted wider, but the reticle is fixed to only subtend at the narrow FOV.

This is why a LPVO up to 4x a unit of measure reticle is so damn fine its useless for anything faster then slow as hell. Fine in context to be pleasing to the eye at 4x and 1x.

"We see this conversation in this review on how "thick" the reticle is" the thickness = subtend value for all power settings.

If I have a SFP 1-6, the FOV is narrower at 6x but my reticle is still .1. The .1 is thinner etched in comparison to a .1 for a 4x optic. The lines are both subtending .1 realitive to each optics FOV at the top end for a SFP and the whole range in a FFP.

Same is true for a 8x. That .1 is etched even thinner for the 8x fov. But still a .1 in value realitive to the FOV.

Now for a small test. If i had a FOV of 100ft wide at 100yds at 8x the 1. Valued in MIL.

Lets say i requested the manufacturer to restrict the FOV by 50%.

The reticle at 8x will still hold the value of .1 mil because its subtends. The retaliative image to my eye is twice as thick. Because the reticle is married to the FOV.

This is why when people buy a optic and want VXY reticle in a 5-25 and think, man thats great. Then go buy a VXY in a 2.5-10 and HATE IT

Keep in mind if that .1 is in MIL at 100yds it must mesurme out to .36"

The .36" is thick or thin based on how much FOV the optic has..




hmmmm.....I've always understood (and the manufacturer's seem to agree) Field of View to mean "x feet/yards/meters of width at y yards/meters of distance". All of your talk about subtend/reticle thickness, etc. doesn't have bupkis to do with that mathematical measurement.

It seems to me you're attempting to describe 2nd vs. 1st focal plane and it's relative impact on reticle subtension. An important thing to understand for sure, but it does not jive with the original statement of "The 6x, 8x is to give a better fov for holds."

I know you have a ton of experience, but I think this time you just have your verbiage crossed up. I'd hate for a newbie to conflate 'field of view' with subtension.
 
Good review and quite fair. Price/performance is the meat on the bone.
It's just such a low price point. I had the SE 1x6 and for the money it was good as well. Hard to find an entry scope suitable for say, 3 gun, that works, and has a great warranty.

Opinion: man I hate these clunky overdone lit up reticles. Doesn't need a donut, doesn't need the tree thingy. Give me fine crosshairs and an illuminated tight very bright center dot ONLY (Like a Steiner or Razor or PST). Then give me a simple BDC or basic hashes.

11B CIB , you should check out the 1-6x24 Viper PST. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.

I would love to get my hands on one to test for a few weeks. I think the VMR-2 reticle would be a much nicer option in the PST II

Thanks for the reply.
 
Tim

Of every one in this topic I am the only one who has designed a reticle for a manufacturer, and is still the best sold reticle for that brand for over 10 years.

Hmmmmm...

You might want to think about what i wrote. I am not talking from a point of view of a consumer.


I design $100K software installations, but I don't write the code.

I ain't mad at ya, I just think you're wrong. FOV is FOV and subtension is subtension, one has little to nothing to do with the other.
 
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I design $100K software installations, but I don't write the code.

I ain't mad at ya, I just think you're wrong. FOV is FOV and subtension is subtension, one has little to nothing to do with the other.

Tim,

On youtube you can find videos that explains the point i am making
 
@Tim

Here is some info to read.

https://www.targettamers.com/guides/rifle-scope-reticles/

And one more

https://www.leupold.com/leupold-cor...focal-plane-optics-vs-rear-focal-plane-optics

Cut to the chase from the leupold link:

Front Focal Plane
Because the reticle magnifies with your image(adjustment to the FOV), in a Front Focal Plane scope the Mil/MOA lines on the reticle will be accurate throughout the entirety of the magnification range. So, if you’re utilizing a Mil-based reticle, a Mil hash mark on the reticle will equal a Mil whether you’re at 5x or 25x magnification. This allows you to use accurate holdovers at any given point.

Rear Focal Plane
Because the reticle on a Rear Focal Plane scope always stays the same size, the subtensions will only be accurate on one specific magnification – typically your maximum magnification. So, again, if you’re using the same Mil-based reticle as above, you’d need to be on 25x for your Mils to be accurate for holdover shooting. Any less than that and you’ll have to do some quick math in order to get an accurate holdover point. At half-magnification, your Mil would really be two Mils, as your image has become half-size in relation to your reticle – which, again, never changes in Rear Focal Plane - refer to the graphic below.


2-FFP_Example.jpg

3-SFP_Example.jpg


Which focal plane you require depends entirely on how you’re going to be using your rig. A Front Focal Plane optic is ideal for a shooting style that we’ll call “hold-off” and is popular among long-range shooters. The concept is simple: You hold high for elevation and hold left or right to compensate for wind, using your Mil or MOA reticle appropriately. As your reticle grows with magnification to match your target, those holdover points don’t change. So if you’re hunting in open country or planning on regularly ringing steel from a prone position at significant ranges, having those firm hold-off positions is useful. The downside is that the reticle will not be as visible on low magnifications, so if you're shooting on 3x most often, the reticle will be harder to see.

Conversely, if you’re hunting thick country or in a situation where you’re likely to engage your target at a close-range, a Rear Focal Plane optic – which offers a large field-of-view and a bold, usable reticle at low magnifications – would serve you better. ( Because the reticle displaces more of the field of view)

Ultimately, there’s not a right or wrong answer to the focal plane debate. It’s about selecting the proper tool for the job, same as you evaluate your rifle and ammunition offerings before making a purchase. Take some time to consider what you’re going to be using your rifle for, and you can’t go wrong.
 
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Well, the Konus is some kind is circle dot and the SWFA is 1.5 power which is stupid for a second focal plane LPVO, imo.

So neither is really what I would be looking for, and prob not daylight bright dots either.


Those of us that shoot multigun have a pretty good idea what is available and what is not, but I do appreciate the suggestions.
 
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I would love to get my hands on one to test for a few weeks. I think the VMR-2 reticle would be a much nicer option in the PST II

Thanks for the reply.

I have one. If you come up near Pittsboro ever, you are welcome to borrow the upper it is on.

I think you’ll like it.
 
These are back in stock at PSA, $298 delivered with mount. I don’t “need” one but, I got one anyway.

Now to sell a new 1x4 Bushnell with a similar reticle I’ve had in my closet for ~6 months : )
 
These are back in stock at PSA, $298 delivered with mount. I don’t “need” one but, I got one anyway.

Now to sell a new 1x4 Bushnell with a similar reticle I’ve had in my closet for ~6 months : )
It’s showing $449.99 for me. Edit: I guess it helps if you put in the right code. Got one on the way!
 
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300 yds with CBC 77gr ammo. Only had a few rounds left from my initial box so I wanted to retest at distance with it.

And this is using my 16” Ultramatch Mod 2 barrel. Groups aren’t too bad for a 16” barrel and an 8 power optic if I do say so myself

S9D0KgL.jpg



Last time I was shooting a tad high. My POA was too small for the reticle, so I was basically guessing where the dot was in relation to dead center of the holdover.

This time I drew a much larger circle and was just a couple inches low.

The instructions say: “for most popular rifles and loads, the sub crosshairs will provide accuracy within 0-3” of your aiming point.”

Well....it does exactly what it says it will.

This is a scope designed for making hits/kills, NOT precision accuracy work. You could use this to shoot a hog or a deer, or even a bad guy, but I wouldn’t try to shoot a bad guy with a hostage, if that analogy makes sense
 
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