capaciters, diodes, and some DIY help

HMP

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Now that Radio Shack is gone - are there places to buy small capacitors and diodes locally?
As Ive mentioned in a few threads, looking at a car and, hopefully, will have it this week.
One issue it has is the tach doesnt work correctly - a common issue on Toyota vehicles from the era.
It's supposed to be a few capacitors to fix it, just unsoldering the old, soldering in the new.

Yes, I could order online, but I was curious if it was something I could pick up locally somewhere.

Next thing - how hard, really, would it be? Ive never messed with these sorts of things.
Only soldering Ive done is on wires
This is more like a circuit board situation
 
The soldering is easy. Get a temp adjustable soldering pen, a solder wick, and some solder/flux and have at it. Watch a YouTube video if you need to brush up on technique.
 
The soldering is easy. Get a temp adjustable soldering pen, a solder wick, and some solder/flux and have at it. Watch a YouTube video if you need to brush up on technique.

I have a dremel soldering iron, would that be ok?
I have flux (the wire cable stuff)
But Im not familiar with solder wick

It looks like I need to get 2 10 uF @35V capacitors
Any brick and mortars still around thatd sell that?
 
OH, and Ive found some videos, but, to be honest, Ive not yet watched any YET
 
I imagine the hardest part is getting the board out. Get a desoldering pump and be aware that some older boards used lead solder which you want to handle in a well ventilated with gloves area and still wash your hands after.
 
I have a dremel soldering iron, would that be ok?
I have flux (the wire cable stuff)
But Im not familiar with solder wick

It looks like I need to get 2 10 uF @35V capacitors
Any brick and mortars still around thatd sell that?

As long as the tip is fine. Solder wick sucks up the old solder when you heat it up initially so you can get a good clean connection.

Don't know about brick and mortar, but the interwebs has everything...
 
Now that Radio Shack is gone - are there places to buy small capacitors and diodes locally?
As Ive mentioned in a few threads, looking at a car and, hopefully, will have it this week.
One issue it has is the tach doesnt work correctly - a common issue on Toyota vehicles from the era.
It's supposed to be a few capacitors to fix it, just unsoldering the old, soldering in the new.

Yes, I could order online, but I was curious if it was something I could pick up locally somewhere.

Next thing - how hard, really, would it be? Ive never messed with these sorts of things.
Only soldering Ive done is on wires
This is more like a circuit board situation


When you get the parts together, bring it out to my place in Farmington and I'll either do it for you or show you how to do it. PM if you take the offer and we'll work out the details. I can provide a few forum references.
 
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I had to r&r the motors that spin gauges in my GMC (notorious for failing). I used a pump (think miniature turkey baster) for the desoldering.

If I can do it, you can too. They named Shakey’s Pizza after me. :(
 
Now that Radio Shack is gone - are there places to buy small capacitors and diodes locally?
As Ive mentioned in a few threads, looking at a car and, hopefully, will have it this week.
One issue it has is the tach doesnt work correctly - a common issue on Toyota vehicles from the era.
It's supposed to be a few capacitors to fix it, just unsoldering the old, soldering in the new.

Yes, I could order online, but I was curious if it was something I could pick up locally somewhere.

Next thing - how hard, really, would it be? Ive never messed with these sorts of things.
Only soldering Ive done is on wires
This is more like a circuit board situation
I haven't been in years, but you can try:
Charlie's Electronics
1111 Burke St
Winston-Salem, NC 27101
(336) 725-2543
 
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Be careful about both over heating and cold solder joints.
Clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol and a light brush.
No need to put a blob of solder.
Back in my early career I did a good bit of soldering to mil-spec. Parts that had to survive in the rough short life of a Harpoon missile in flight.
If I can do that without a formal class, anyone can. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
 
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I have a dremel soldering iron, would that be ok?
I have flux (the wire cable stuff)
But Im not familiar with solder wick

It looks like I need to get 2 10 uF @35V capacitors
Any brick and mortars still around thatd sell that?

If it's the dremel butane careful, they get super hot.
 
This does you absolutely no good to your original request, but I figured I'd reminisce down memory lane while I had the chance...

We had this place in Central Florida to go to: https://skycraftsurplus.com/
SkyCraft Surplus...aka: SkyJunk

Buckets and buckets of diodes, LEDs, potentiometers, meters, switches, wire of all gauges, and some surplus military crap for good measure. I'd spend hours in there gathering up pieces of junk as I devised mad scientist "things" in my head.

I don't know of anywhere else like it. It's where all the movie prop guys would shop when they came to town in Orlando. I know many vehicles kept alive from the parts purchased at that store.
 
Also doesn't help the OP, but one of my to do list items is to get an SMT rework station and stereo graphic microscope and then get back to designing and building electronic hardware. My goal is to build my own ham radio, but not just a simple transceiver. I want to build a high end one built upon a DSP processor.
 
Do you live in Winston HMP? Electronic Distributors on Brookstown was my go to. A word caution . Some newer electric circuit boards have very small micro diodes , caps. and resistors. Is there anyway for you to take cover/back off of the tach and throw a pic up here. I have repaired a few boards in vehicles and in most the component had lifted or had a cold solder joint , it did not need parts just some soldering.
 
Do you live in Winston HMP? Electronic Distributors on Brookstown was my go to. A word caution . Some newer electric circuit boards have very small micro diodes , caps. and resistors. Is there anyway for you to take cover/back off of the tach and throw a pic up here. I have repaired a few boards in vehicles and in most the component had lifted or had a cold solder joint , it did not need parts just some soldering.

look at this thread, please

https://www.mr2oc.com/63-interior-m...eter-stopped-working-replaced-capacitors.html
 
I had to r&r the motors that spin gauges in my GMC (notorious for failing). I used a pump (think miniature turkey baster) for the desoldering.

If I can do it, you can too. They named Shakey’s Pizza after me. :(

Boy, I miss that place.

.
 
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Those caps would be an easy replacement and are easy to find.
 
HMP, you need to get your amateur ticket and network. You'll have more soldering irons and parts coming at you than you'll know what to do with.

If you were closer I'd give you a hand with it.
 
I have 5 each 10 microfarad caps electrolytic but they are old stock. You really want some newer ones. I have many soldering irons and am located in western Forsyth county.
 
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Getting the board out will be the biggest issue

I can probably send you 2x 10uF 35V caps for free.

Any old cheap soldering pencil will do the job...25-40 watts... order off ebay/amazon. Use rosin core solder only (I can send you a piece of that too). Unless you're good at desoldering pcbs, I'd consider snipping the leads of the old (if it's leaded....photos would help) and soldering to the pigtails of the old.

While this is ugly, ugly is better than a bodged up PCB. I've made tens of thousands of solder joints, and it's not hard, but it does take a little (very) technique. Desoldering off a PCB is non-trivial for the first time. Solder wick and liquid ROSIN flux makes it easy but that stuff is not easy to find locally (and I don't have an extra tube of ROSIN flux to spot you)

Glad to help !
 
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I ended up buying a soldering iron yesterday on Amazon
I did NOT get the one recommended, and Im not trying to be a jerk to those who made a recommendation, but I saw something that was cheaper and says that it is temperature adjusting, so I thought it'd be ok

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SG8V1WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It'll be here tomorrow, along with some heat shrink tubing, and a radio.
:)

The PLAN, and sometimes plans dont work out, is to solder up a car stereo wiring harness with it, the heat shrink tubing, and the stereo
Then I have a 2019 era stereo to replace a 1991 cd/cassette deck - touchscreen, ipod/iphone control, bluetooth, cd/dvd
 
61CuuA7jAwL._SX679_.jpg
 
The solder should melt at about 370F depending on the type. You will need to get the board and part that hot, which means setting the iron hotter. Too hot and it will start lifting the copper traces. Try starting about 680 to 700F, give it time to heat but don’t press (put pressure) with the iron. Instead try to get good surface contact and add solder. Yeah it’s counter intuitive but it helps heat flow which is what you need.
 
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Getting the board out will be the biggest issue

I can probably send you 2x 10uF 35V caps for free.

Any old cheap soldering pencil will do the job...25-40 watts... order off ebay/amazon. Use rosin core solder only (I can send you a piece of that too). Unless you're good at desoldering pcbs, I'd consider snipping the leads of the old (if it's leaded....photos would help) and soldering to the pigtails of the old.

While this is ugly, ugly is better than a bodged up PCB. I've made tens of thousands of solder joints, and it's not hard, but it does take a little (very) technique. Desoldering off a PCB is non-trivial for the first time. Solder wick and liquid ROSIN flux makes it easy but that stuff is not easy to find locally (and I don't have an extra tube of ROSIN flux to spot you)

Glad to help !

Sage advice here, but I'll add a little. When I pigtail into existing leads, I bridge leads with thin gauge wire (wire wrap, to be exact) then fix the component to the board with hot glue or blue tac. Wrapping thicker gauge component leads to snipped ends is a pain.
 
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I looked at the thread you posted on the tach. There are 2 types of cap like that, radial and board mounted. You need the board mount (those look like Nichion caps). Check ED (Electronics Distributors/Norfolk Wire on the corner of Peters Creek and Brookstown).
 
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Ok - MORE HELP NEEDED
I hope some folks will check this thread, but Im in need of more help
I need to figure out a wiring harness for aftermarket stereo

I need to find a 14pin connector (female with pins inside) to 'build' an adapter...I have no idea where to start or how I would then get the wires into the plug.
This is a pain in the butt, had hoped to have ordered the correct thing, but apparently no.
And finding a harness pre-made is, it seems, non-existent.
 
I need to find a 14pin connector (female with pins inside) to 'build' an adapter...
A picture would be helpful, but I’ll hazard a guess that it’s either an Amp or Molex plug. The pins get crimped onto the wire and they snap into the plug. It takes a tool to remove the pins, but if you’re careful, you shouldn’t have to.

Mouser and Digikey are good places to buy pieces parts for things like this.
 
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