Wheels spacers - good or bad or what?

HMP

HMP

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Considering a set of Honda wheels for the MR2, it's just hard finding a modest looking wheel that's strong and fairly lightweight in 5x114.
The 1st gen S2000 wheels fit the bill...BUT the offset is all wrong, In stock form they look way too sunken in on my chassis (from pics Ive seen online).

People are running 25-30mm spacers on the back to push them out, about 10mm on the front.
Ive never messed with spacers, so this is new territory for me.

Im in need of new tires for the stock wheels, as theyre older and sat for a long time.
It's a old size - 14" lol
Tires are not plentiful, and what there is it's not higher performance tires and the cost is a bit ridiculous.

So that's why I was thinking about changing wheel set up to a 16 with many more tire options

What are the consequences of spacers? I did a quick check on ebay, but I dont know what 'quality' spacers are or what to look for etc
 
My assumption is they are not good for your bearings, and in extreme cases are bad for the axel itself.

Modern cars are approaching a “hyper design” level where everything is streamlined to be just good enough in an effort to save weight and gain mileage—or to cost as least as possible to produce. So messing around with any of it throws the intended use out of whack, thus changing the anticipated lifespan curve.
 
9outof10mms said:
My assumption is they are not good for your bearings, and in extreme cases are bad for the axel itself.

Modern cars are approaching a “hyper design” level where everything is streamlined to be just good enough in an effort to save weight and gain mileage—or to cost as least as possible to produce. So messing around with any of it throws the intended use out of whack, thus changing the anticipated lifespan curve.
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Absolutely agree. Not good on axles bearings even steering components.

I'm needing tires soon Found a set of wheels with a chevy 8 lug pattern which is different than ford 8 lug . Ran spacers on a 6 lug chevy ONCE. never again. Went through both front bearing assembly which was way more the cost than I saved on tires
 
When I worked as a buyer at CarMax if we bought a car that had wheel spacers or had a rim or tire size that was more than 2” larger than factory we would kick it to wholesale immediately and it did not pass our checks.


The reason is exactly what @9outof10mms said. The increased wear caused by the heavier rims or tires or the increased stress of having the rims further out causes significant enough wear that the extended warranty company we used would not warranty the cars.
 
What the other replies have said is true, but if the wheels you want to use are offset too far to the inside and the spacer brings the effective offset back to where it was in the first place (or close), then you should be OK. The relationship of the contact patch to the bearing/axle is what matters, it doesn’t matter (within reason) how this is accomplished.
 
Red Marley said:
What the other replies have said is true, but if the wheels you want to use are offset too far to the inside and the spacer brings the effective offset back to where it was in the first place (or close), then you should be OK. The relationship of the contact patch to the bearing/axle is what matters, it doesn’t matter (within reason) how this is accomplished.
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I would worry about rubbing inside with that scenario. But the math is sound.
 
Even in that scenario there is still stress on the bearings because the spacers are still taking the weight and not the wheel. Hence the correct offset for the right application

That's my thoughts anyway
 
Well Im not trying to destroy parts just because of tire selection.
I'll just wait, keep saving, and find something that'll work.

I dont want large wheels (which seem to be so popular these days), just something with more selection, a 16 or 17"
 
HMP said:
@Majicmike I think stock is +35
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Let’s do it the old fashion way. When you have one off, run a straightedge across the rim and measure to where it mounts. I’ll do the same so we can see what we are working with. This is a set of 7x16 Elile’s that came off a 2010 Camry ( 5x114. I was going to put them on my XB when when it got hit in the rear I didn’t care anymore
 
I tend to agree with @Red Marley if you're bringing the overall width back to about stock the forces on the bearings should be about the same as factory. Not a physicist or engineer.

Going wider will increase bearing load spacer or wheel offset. Wheel bearing checks and maintenance should be regular anyway so not a major concern of mine. I'd worry more about having another mating surface which is another potential for loosening, and I wouldn't worry a lot about that.
 
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Not a fan of spacers but a thin one isn't horrible.Be sure that you have enough threads to tighten the lugnut safely.A frequent check of wheel torque isn't a bad idea either.
 
You would also need longer wheel studs and that would put me into just biting the bullet and finding the correct wheels for your car.
 
Wheel spacers usually aren't a big deal, just keep them an inch or less..... but for the tire sizes/availability... 16" all day long.
 
Beef15 said:
I tend to agree with @Red Marley if you're bringing the overall width back to about stock the forces on the bearings should be about the same as factory. Not a physicist or engineer.

Going wider will increase bearing load spacer or wheel offset. Wheel bearing checks and maintenance should be regular anyway so not a major concern of mine. I'd worry more about having another mating surface which is another potential for loosening, and I wouldn't worry a lot about that.
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Im not considering having the wheels be extended beyond the body of the vehicle, just back to where it's close to flush with the outside of the body/fender like in stock configuration.
 
BowWow said:
Wheel spacers usually aren't a big deal, just keep them an inch or less..... but for the tire sizes/availability... 16" all day long.
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Well if Im doing a 30-35mm spacer that's about 1.25 or so of an inch, closer to 1.5" I guess
 
With 1.5 inch spacers.....you could be pushing your luck with bearing and tire wear....its hard to say for sure because it really just depends on the vehicle. An inch......you generally dont have to worry about anything.I have seen people use wheels with 2-2.5 inches less backspacing and tires might last 25k and bearings would last about 45k. You could try a Toyota forum to see if anyonenhas done similar.
 
I know it's quite common to run 1.25-1.5" spacers on Tacomas and 4Runners, but the key is that they MUST be hubcentric. They have a raised ring on the inside to ensure the spacers mount to the hubs exactly the way the factory wheels do and this eliminates any possibility of shifting/wobble. Even a little bit of wobble can end up shearing wheel lugs off.

A guy recently posted about his just barely dodging disaster with non-hubcentric here... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spacers-are-bad-mkay.625077/

Not sure if this makes a difference on your MR2 but thought I'd share since it's still Toyota.
 
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Big difference in a slip-on spacer and one that comes with its own lugs for the wheel to mount to.

As mentioned earlier, Jeep owners run them all the time. Spacer bolts to the hub, rim bolts to the spacer.

But, 99% of my mileage was trails...and there was a lot more to be concerned about than the wear the spacers might cause. :D
 
Majicmike said:
Let’s do it the old fashion way. When you have one off, run a straightedge across the rim and measure to where it mounts. I’ll do the same so we can see what we are working with. This is a set of 7x16 Elile’s that came off a 2010 Camry ( 5x114. I was going to put them on my XB when when it got hit in the rear I didn’t care anymore
Click to expand...

This is how you measure the back spacing. Back spacing and offset are not the same.

Offset is a plus or minus measurement from the centerline of the wheel compared to the mounting surface of the wheel. Google it.

.
 
AFFE6B37-E67E-49DC-8910-DE9B3BCC84D5.png
Gator said:
This is how you measure the back spacing. Back spacing and offset are not the same.

Offset is a plus or minus measurement from the centerline of the wheel compared to the mounting surface of the wheel. Google it.

.
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This serves the purpose needed. It’s harder to measure +/- offset. This simplifies it.
 
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For some reason I thought the MR2’s ran a slightly wider tire on the rear?

Anyway if you are thinking 16” diameter rims I’m thinking (only thinking which is DANGEROUS!) your going to be on a 45-50 series VR type tire BUT the width you can fit under the front fender without rubbing when turning will limit you. A to a 16” rim starts at a 7” width except for some rare ones. A 7” wide rim with a 45-50 profile tire will likely be your limit without modifying the fender well.

Also watch out for extra weight larger tire/wheel packages can add to the suspension especially with aftermarket rims. A couple pounds won’t change much but the more weight over spec out on the axle will add more load under acceleration and cornering along even braking.
 
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NCFubar said:
For some reason I thought the MR2’s ran a slightly wider tire on the rear?

Anyway if you are thinking 16” diameter rims I’m thinking (only thinking which is DANGEROUS!) your going to be on a 45-50 series VR type tire BUT the width you can fit under the front fender without rubbing when turning will limit you. A to a 16” rim starts at a 7” width except for some rare ones. A 7” wide rim with a 45-50 profile tire will likely be your limit without modifying the fender well.

Also watch out for extra weight larger tire/wheel packages can add to the suspension especially with aftermarket rims. A couple pounds won’t change much but the more weight over spec out on the axle will add more load under acceleration and cornering along even braking.
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Yes, the stock wheels on any year was a 6" in front and 7" wheel in the back

You can fit quite the wheel/tire under the front of her, up to a 225 wide
On my old one I ran 245 on the rear on a 7.5" 17

I agree with weight and would NOT ever choose a very heavy wheel/tire combo.
The S2000 wheels weigh about the same as stock, even though they are 2" larger diameter and 1/2 wider front and rear, that's why I was asking about them
 
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