Any well pump experts on here??

I'm no expert, but I replaced mine a few years ago after hours of Google-Fu. Still going strong.
 
What do you want to know? I'm no expert, but I've dealt with some well issues.
 
I'm no expert but I have some experience. As suggested above post 'em up.
 
I replaced my well pump in October. Was shot, for sure. Since then, I have had intermit volume/pressure issues. The well people came back and said "your switch is good, it's low volume in your well." They did not check out anything else. I have had low volume before, it always gets silty and sandy. What's happening is, occasionally, 3 or 4 times a week, the volume/pressure will just plummet, according to the pressure gauge < 20 (somewhere between 14-20), where it normally runs 40-42. After not using water for a few hours, it'll be just fine. The quality of the water is fine. This started acutely, not gradually where I think it would be a volume issue.

So...how to tell volume vs pressure, and where on the line should I suspect is, well, suspect?
 
When you say "I have had low volume before, it always gets silty and sandy", was that before the pump replacement or after? If the new pump is hanging a little higher than the old pump you could be running out of water before you get into the sedimentation - which is ok, it's better for your pump impellers.

If you really are pumping your well dry you should consider one of these to protect your pump: https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-FSG2J24M4CP-Pumptrol/dp/B000FKBY8W
 
Last edited:
Also these are clues your well guy is correct: "This started acutely, not gradually" and "After not using water for a few hours, it'll be just fine".

What is the recharge rate stamped on the well casing tag?
 
My well doesn't produce enough to service my household, so I installed a 1000-gallon above ground tank and a timer to fill it twice a day. I am using this to protect the well pump: https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/cycle-sensor-pump-monitor

and the low-pressure switch above to protect the house pump if I run the tank dry.
 
Cape Fear said:
Also these are clues your well guy is correct: "This started acutely, not gradually" and "After not using water for a few hours, it'll be just fine".

What is the recharge rate stamped on the well casing tag?
Click to expand...

Yeah, not sure. I am not sure where to find this.

Would/could it be low volume with such low pressure on the gauge? I would think (and that is dangerous) that if the water ran out and the pressure was normal, it would be a volume issue?

Also, if it is volume, why would it used to be silty, but now quality be OK? When it would be silty that was before this (our second) pump. But even as recently as the summer if we used too much water we would get the silt in the toilet.
 
Last edited:
Chuckman said:
Yeah, not sure. I am not sure where to find this.
Click to expand...
Here is a pic of mine, it was glued to the well casing but it came off. Note 1/2 gpm recharge rate (YIELD), I don't think I'm even getting that.
IMG_20191205_120003-L.jpg

Chuckman said:
Would/could it be low volume with such low pressure on the gauge? I would think (and that is dangerous) that if the water ran out and the pressure was normal, it would be a volume issue?
Click to expand...
I don't know if we're comparing apples to apples. When you say "volume" I'm thinking the volume of water in the well is too low for the pump to do its job. IOW there is not enough water in the well to pump. I *think* you're instead referring to flow rate (ie. the amount or "volume" of water moving through the pipes)?

Chuckman said:
Also, if it is volume, why would it used to be silty, but now quality be OK? When it would be silty that was before this (our second) pump. But even as recently as the summer if we used too much water we would get the silt in the toilet.
Click to expand...
If the old pump was hanging at the very bottom of the well, when you pump the well dry you'll be pumping up sediment. If the new pump is hanging 10' higher you'll run out of water at the pump before you stir up the sediment.
 
I occasionally have a problem with sediment, usually after it's rained a lot over a period time or if there's snow/ice on the ground for a week that's melting slowly. You can see it in the toilet tanks and when flushing the water heater - if it's really bad you can see it in the running tap. It's way more than a traditional semi-permeable filter could handle unless you wanted to change it out weekly. I just picked up one of these but haven't installed it. (rusco spin down filter)

 
Brian K said:
I occasionally have a problem with sediment, usually after it's rained a lot over a period time or if there's snow/ice on the ground for a week that's melting slowly. You can see it in the toilet tanks and when flushing the water heater - if it's really bad you can see it in the running tap. It's way more than a traditional semi-permeable filter could handle unless you wanted to change it out weekly. I just picked up one of these but haven't installed it. (rusco spin down filter)

Click to expand...

I need to pick one of those up if it works with powder fine sediment as well. Our sediment is mostly a super fine shale that’ll clear a 10 micron filter.
 
Cape Fear said:
Here is a pic of mine, it was glued to the well casing but it came off. Note 1/2 gpm recharge rate (YIELD), I don't think I'm even getting that.
IMG_20191205_120003-L.jpg

I don't know if we're comparing apples to apples. When you say "volume" I'm thinking the volume of water in the well is too low for the pump to do its job. IOW there is not enough water in the well to pump. I *think* you're instead referring to flow rate (ie. the amount or "volume" of water moving through the pipes)?

If the old pump was hanging at the very bottom of the well, when you pump the well dry you'll be pumping up sediment. If the new pump is hanging 10' higher you'll run out of water at the pump before you stir up the sediment.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look for that picture, I don't think I've ever seen one. I agree with you I think we are not speaking the same language, you are correct, and talking about the amount of water actually coming out of the faucet.

When the amount of water coming out of the faucet is nil, the reading on the pressure gauge beside the holding tank in the crawl space is under 20, couple hours later the amount of water coming out is just fine and the pressure is back up to 40.

Also when the water coming off faucet is so little, I can turn on a spigot on the top of the well and water comes out of that fine.
 
Is the well under the house too or just the bladder tank?

1' water = .43 psi so a 40' column will give you 17psi. It is possible your <20 psi is coming from the water in your pipes and not from your pump? I'm grasping here.

I'm just thinking 2 things - if you've pumped the well dry in the past, that's probably happening now, and you may be in danger of burning up your new pump.
 
Cape Fear said:
Is the well under the house too or just the bladder tank?

1' water = .43 psi so a 40' column will give you 17psi. It is possible your <20 psi is coming from the water in your pipes and not from your pump? I'm grasping here.

I'm just thinking 2 things - if you've pumped the well dry in the past, that's probably happening now, and you may be in danger of burning up your new pump.
Click to expand...

Well is in front yard; bladder tank in the crawl space.

That's what I am wondering; if the volume in my well is OK, but something is amiss in between the well and downstream of the pressure gauge.

When the water drops off, we do not use it, at all, and let it "recover." I am concerned about the pump, too, but still curious if this is a well water volume issue as to a) why this is a sudden and not gradual problem, and b) if the pump is in the same place why no silt now like before?
 
I'd bet the pump needs to be lowered. The pump should be well below the static line but nowhere near the bottom. Did you change the riser pipe when installing the pump, a few feet can make a difference.
 
Last edited:
Chuckman said:
Well is in front yard; bladder tank in the crawl space.
Click to expand...
Is there a significant elevation drop in the front yard? I'm looking for enough water column to produce the pressure you see on the gauge. Also note, the cheap gauges you commonly see aren't dependable. A good gauge will cost you $50-$100. Most people don't buy them and opt for the $6 gauge. You might not really have 20 psi at the tank.
Chuckman said:
That's what I am wondering; if the volume in my well is OK, but something is amiss in between the well and downstream of the pressure gauge.
Click to expand...
I am only guessing here, but I'm thinking when you open the spigot on the well head the water you see is just backfeeding from the house plumbing. Of course it won't do that for long if all the faucets are closed, with no way for air to get in the lines. It will create a vacuum.
Chuckman said:
When the water drops off, we do not use it, at all, and let it "recover." I am concerned about the pump, too, but still curious if this is a well water volume issue as to a) why this is a sudden and not gradual problem, and b) if the pump is in the same place why no silt now like before?
Click to expand...
The pressure recovery being only a matter of time makes me think it is a dry well. Waiting for it to recover is all you are doing.

If the well is pumping dry it will be a sudden problem, not gradual. There is enough water in the well for the pump to work until there isn't, then that's it.

If the old pump was sitting on the bottom of the well, a good well man would not have hung it there again. He would have raised it off the floor of the well. The new pump may be hanging higher than the old pump was.

If you are pumping it dry, and the pump keeps running while the well recovers, that ain't good.
 
Pink_Vapor said:
I need to pick one of those up if it works with powder fine sediment as well. Our sediment is mostly a super fine shale that’ll clear a 10 micron filter.
Click to expand...
I installed one of these Rusco spin down filters, bought a 250 mesh which I think is ~60 microns. I don’t know if they have a mesh to get you down to 10 microns.
 
Cape Fear said:
Is there a significant elevation drop in the front yard? I'm looking for enough water column to produce the pressure you see on the gauge. Also note, the cheap gauges you commonly see aren't dependable. A good gauge will cost you $50-$100. Most people don't buy them and opt for the $6 gauge. You might not really have 20 psi at the tank.
I am only guessing here, but I'm thinking when you open the spigot on the well head the water you see is just backfeeding from the house plumbing. Of course it won't do that for long if all the faucets are closed, with no way for air to get in the lines. It will create a vacuum.
The pressure recovery being only a matter of time makes me think it is a dry well. Waiting for it to recover is all you are doing.

If the well is pumping dry it will be a sudden problem, not gradual. There is enough water in the well for the pump to work until there isn't, then that's it.

If the old pump was sitting on the bottom of the well, a good well man would not have hung it there again. He would have raised it off the floor of the well. The new pump may be hanging higher than the old pump was.

If you are pumping it dry, and the pump keeps running while the well recovers, that ain't good.
Click to expand...

How do I know if the pump is running when the water is low?

If it's lack of water in the well, will digging a deeper well be beneficial?

Could it be a waterlogged bladder tank?
 
12151791 said:
I installed one of these Rusco spin down filters, bought a 250 mesh which I think is ~60 microns. I don’t know if they have a mesh to get you down to 10 microns.
Click to expand...
I'm already running a larger that the one in the vid 5 micron filter. I'll install the spin down upline of the filter. I've a 30 micron at the well head already.
 
Chuckman said:
How do I know if the pump is running when the water is low?
Click to expand...
The surest method is to put a clamp-on ammeter on one of the hot leads for your pump. Or open your switch and see if the contacts are closed or open. You can also try putting a hand on the discharge pipe at the well head, you may be able to feel a vibration from the pump.

If you do have an ammeter, the pump will draw less current if the well is dry than when it isn't. That's because the motor doesn't have to work as hard if it isn't pushing any water. Current draw increases as your well is drained, but then when it goes dry current drops suddenly. Say your pump normally pulls say 8.5A when everything is working properly. You check it when you're not getting any water and now it's pulling 6A. This means your pump is running (it's drawing current), but it's not pumping any water (current far below normal). No bueno.
Chuckman said:
If it's lack of water in the well, will digging a deeper well be beneficial?
Click to expand...
There are too many factors involved for me to answer that one. It's above my pay grade. There are procedures out there to increase yield by pumping high-pressure discharge into the well and cleaning out the old fissures or creating new ones. Or maybe they suck all the water out of the well real fast to clear the silt? I'm not that familiar with them.
Chuckman said:
Could it be a waterlogged bladder tank?
Click to expand...
It's doubtful, the most common symptom of a waterlogged pressure tank is short-cycling (pump cutting on and off frequently). If you open a spigot and stand beside the switch you will usually hear it click on and off every couple of seconds (or less!) if the tank is waterlogged. Short-cycling is VERY bad for your pump.
 
Last edited:
larryh1108 said:
I had a similar issue last year.
It turns out I needed a new water pressure regulator.
Been fine since.
Click to expand...
Larry do you have a well or municipal water? I don't have a pressure regulator at all.
 
Chuckman said:
Well is in front yard; bladder tank in the crawl space.

That's what I am wondering; if the volume in my well is OK, but something is amiss in between the well and downstream of the pressure gauge.

When the water drops off, we do not use it, at all, and let it "recover." I am concerned about the pump, too, but still curious if this is a well water volume issue as to a) why this is a sudden and not gradual problem, and b) if the pump is in the same place why no silt now like before?
Click to expand...
In response to a) did someone nearby drill a new well recently?
 
I have a well.
A year ago I had a similar experience.... low pressure out of the blue.
When it was low, I checked every faucet to see if it had a slow leak.
I even replaced a toilet valve to no avail.
I finally called a plumber and he replaced my water pressure regulator and bladder (which I thought was a money grab).
I didn't crawl into my crawl space to see what he did so I trusted him even though I don't know many honest plumbers and had no referrals.
It's been fine since.
Does it really have one? I hope so but I took his word for it.
Maybe a plumber here can say for sure but it made sense.
 
Another thought.
When we bought our house 5 years ago, we had a house inspector.
When he measured the water pressure, he said it was 80# and it should be 40#
and I should have it set to 40#. I actually forgot about it until the plumber mentioned that is
was too high and he set it to 40# so there must be some kind of regulator.
 
larryh1108 said:
Another thought.
When we bought our house 5 years ago, we had a house inspector.
When he measured the water pressure, he said it was 80# and it should be 40#
and I should have it set to 40#. I actually forgot about it until the plumber mentioned that is
was too high and he set it to 40# so there must be some kind of regulator.
Click to expand...


That was more than likely the pressure switch which in a way acts as regulator for the system unless you have some weird setup. Usually located near the tank
 
Pressure switch sounds right. I do not know plumbing.
It was tight next to the tank. Could that give the issue the OP describes?
It fixed my similar issues when it was replaced.
 
larryh1108 said:
Pressure switch sounds right. I do not know plumbing.
It was tight next to the tank. Could that give the issue the OP describes?
It fixed my similar issues when it was replaced.
Click to expand...


What you described originally with high pressure which I would bet the inspector was just checking pressure in your bladder tank was bladder in tank starting to fail then and pressurising the back side making the tank pressure higher then once it gets waterlogged with pump short cycling or total bladder failure it will eventually lead to no pressure. Replacing the switch at the same time as bladder tank is usually cheap insurance since they are cheap and contacts wear over time. I had it happen on mine couple years ago and had to do the same.

What makes me think @Chuckman problem is a water level in the well issue is that after a few hrs of not using it that it comes back not likely if bladder tank issue. I would suspect like the others the pump didn’t get put back to same level in well if work was just recently done. Little more rare but can happen if someone else did something that lowered the vain of ground water he was pulling from. No expert but I would see if you could get someone to check water level in well and height of the pump then if need be drill a new well or storage tank option. Atleast another set of eyes to look at it.
 
I had a similar problem earlier this year. The PVC pipe thread to nipple fitting on the pump to water line had cracked. The pump had some age on it, so all of it got replaced.
 
Regarding your well’s depth and rate of flow, your county Division of Environmental Quality should have a record of the information from when it was permitted and drilled. One phone call to Chatham County resulted in my receiving my info within a few hours.

I too would suggest that you replace the pressure switch. It’s only about a $30 part and it takes less than 30 minutes to swap out. You’ll need some pipe dope or teflon tape, and a screwdriver for the electrical connections. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the pressure gauge while you’re at it.

Scott
 
Years ago, a buddy of mine had a similar situation. we went to change the pressure switch and found that the nipple it was on was 98% clogged with sediment. We replaced the nipple and everything was fine after that.

Just one more thing to think about.
 
cold1 said:
Years ago, a buddy of mine had a similar situation. we went to change the pressure switch and found that the nipple it was on was 98% clogged with sediment. We replaced the nipple and everything was fine after that.

Just one more thing to think about.
Click to expand...
@Chuckman this is good advice right here. It's been so long ago I forgot about it, but I had the same thing happen about 30 years ago. The sediment in the nipple would intermittently keep pressure against the diaphragm on the pressure switch and make it think there was adequate pressure on the line, so the pump would only run sporadically.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom