10/22: build, buy, or buy then mod?

[maven]

Need some advice from the rimfire gurus. embarrassed to say i dont have a long gun chambered in .22

I'd like to buy or build something that is fun to shoot and accurate. The more I read up on the 10/22s i get the impression that if you want to make it a decent stick you have to mod half gun. Ruger has a few models that are a little bit more in price and marketed as "target" guns. Are these any good or will they still require some work to get them tuned?

So what say you? Better to start from scratch or buy one and mod or buy a model gtg out of the box? Or go with a different setup all together? Marlin? AR style rimfire?

 

[amnesia]

Studentofthegun Chilly636

 

[maven]

i have a non threaded Stainless E.R. shaw bull barrel for sale for 75$ if you want it...

Im guessing that puts you in the build camp.

Thanks, ill keep that in mind. If i do go the build route ill likely get a barrel that is threaded. the idea of a can on long semi auto 22 gets me all hot and bothered.

 

[slow is slow]

What is the intended use? Seeing that this will be your only long gun in .22, (hopefully first of many) I would say that a 10/22 would be a great gun to start with. Just buy what you like whether wood, laminate, or plastic stock. I would get one with a threaded barrel for future flexibility. I'd also recommend an iron sights model since you can add a scope easily, but much harder to add iron sights to a model that didn't come with them. If down the road you decide you want to turn it into a tack driver or a steel challenge gun, there is enough aftermarket support to make it into whatever you can dream. Save the money for upgrading until you've put a case through it.

 

[maven]

i have a non threaded Stainless E.R. shaw bull barrel for sale for 75$ if you want it...

Im guessing that puts you in the build camp.

Thanks, ill keep that in mind. If i do go the build route ill likely get a barrel that is threaded. the idea of a can on long semi auto 22 gets me all hot and bothered.

if you go with a buy stock and mod, what is your short list for parts that get upgraded?

 

[maven]

i want it to be a bench/target, "one ragged hole" rifle that is fun for seasoned and new shooters alike. ive got a scope waiting to go on something so I want to build a rifle that will be pretty accurate.

 

[slow is slow]

If it's just a target rifle and nothing else, I might would look at some of the heavy barreled 10/22s. You can get one stock and drop a better trigger in it and be pretty accurate. For more money you could look at one of the kidd or magnum research models. I would say in the long run it would be cheaper to go ahead and buy a kidd instead of buying a stock 10/22 and replacing most of it with kidd or other aftermarket parts if that's the direction you feel like you might go. If you want ultimate accuracy get a cz 455. They have one called the varmint precision trainer that I'd love to get my hands on. But all of my cz .22s are absolute tack drivers.

 

[DirtySCREW]

KIDD .....that is the absolute best. PERIOD.

I have a Kidd bull barrel on my "bench" rifle. I built it cause I wanted to start entering .22 competitions. ..then the 22 market crashed and you couldn't get a box of 22s to save your life. I have a Volquartsen trigger kit I still have to install to get it to the one hole ragged that I want to....and you described. I also changed out my stock for a Boyds laminate stock.

DS

 

[DirtySCREW]

DS

 

[maven]

i have a non threaded Stainless E.R. shaw bull barrel for sale for 75$ if you want it...

Im guessing that puts you in the build camp.

Thanks, ill keep that in mind. If i do go the build route ill likely get a barrel that is threaded. the idea of a can on long semi auto 22 gets me all hot and bothered.

will do, thanks for the intel!

 

[maven]

DS

this is a 10/22 you built from scratch or bought modded?

love that stock.

 

[maven]

If it's just a target rifle and nothing else, I might would look at some of the heavy barreled 10/22s. You can get one stock and drop a better trigger in it and be pretty accurate. For more money you could look at one of the kidd or magnum research models. I would say in the long run it would be cheaper to go ahead and buy a kidd instead of buying a stock 10/22 and replacing most of it with kidd or other aftermarket parts if that's the direction you feel like you might go. If you want ultimate accuracy get a cz 455. They have one called the varmint precision trainer that I'd love to get my hands on. But all of my cz .22s are absolute tack drivers.

thoughts on the Ruger 10/22 - model 1262?

is the cz inherently more accurate because its a bolt gun?

 

[Wahoo95]

Add a KIDD barrel and decent trigger. OR, buy a Fedderson Ridge Runner which is ready to go out the box.

I'm actually in the process of setting up a 10/22 now strating with a stock carbine. Initial changes will be the stock, barrel, and trigger. Next phase will be swapping or modifying the bolt. Im going with a Magpul stock for the adjustability so my girls can shoot it. I'm adding a KIDD Lightweight barrel and a KIDD trigger kit.

 

[DirtySCREW]

this is a 10/22 you built from scratch or bought modded?

love that stock.

Bought and modded. I bought a stock wood 10/22 from Dicks Sporting goods, sold the stock to @Snal , & sold the stock barrel to someone else. I bought the KIDD barrel after a lot of research and also bought the Boyds stock. It has a BSA Sweet 22 scope on her. I just have to put that Volquartsen kit in and she'll be a tack driver. Just wished I would have gotten a threaded barrel!!

Get the threaded barrel. ..or have buyers regret!

DS

 

[slow is slow]

If I was going to buy another 10/22 for target work, that's the one I'd start with. I've never felt ruger's 2 stage target trigger. Only thing this model lacks that I would prefer is a threaded barrel, but that's an easy fix. And yes, I believe bolt guns are inherently more accurate due to fewer moving parts and more consistent bolt lockup.

 

[Wahoo95]

I would pass on the Target model. It's suffers frim some of the same chamber issues as the standard barrels. The LVT model is the only one I buy if I wasn't planning to tinker with it as it has a better barrel. The factory target barrel is great if you have the chamber recut.

Since I like to tinker and the 10/22 is super simple to work on I'd rather put a KIDD or Fedderson barrel on it.

 

[Jointdoc]

I have a CZ 455 with a threaded barrel and it will do one ragged hole all day long. I added a bipod and leupold 3-10 scope. Trigger is nice for a stock trigger.

That at being said, I also have a 10/22 takedown w threaded barrel that I just added a Magpul stock and Kidd trigger... just this weekend actually.

 

[7.62 Sam]

a plain ol Ruger with a KIDD trigger will get you by, this is one of those how deep is your pocket things ... they are addictive.
I have slicked up & modded many a 10/22. a few only have Ruger receivers everything else aftermarket. but the Tac Sol X ring guns have been looking good,the dual recoil system is slick,and have a different feel shooting suppressed .

 

[maven]

I would pass on the Target model. It's suffers frim some of the same chamber issues as the standard barrels. The LVT model is the only one I buy if I wasn't planning to tinker with it as it has a better barrel. The factory target barrel is great if you have the chamber recut.

Since I like to tinker and the 10/22 is super simple to work on I'd rather put a KIDD or Fedderson barrel on it.

What makes the LVT barrel different?

Even if you go with the LVT barrel model you would still want to slap a KIDD trigger in, right?

 

[Red Cent]

Definitely a new barrel or set back factory barrel and ream for "match" (bentz) chamber. To my knowledge, none of the factory has the tight match chambering.

Pin the firing pin. Generally removes flyers.

Slightly radius the back bottom of the bolt and add a dab of oil. The radius ensures smooth cocking and minimizes resistance.

Reduce headspace to .0425-.0428. They come from the factory with .055 headspace. 22 lr rim is .042.

Don't buy a "special" V block.

Pillar bed the action screw.

Glass bed the first 2" of the bull barrel. Since most any barrel you buy will be a slip fit, true the horizontals with the action and barrel when you bed it. All 10-22s experience "barrel droop" before fixed. Stabilize the barrel. Or have your receiver threaded and buy a threaded barrel. Or buy a threaded both. But glass the first 2" anyway.

Tie down the rear of the receiver. Economical way is to drill a hole through the stock lining up the hole with the back pin hole that holds the trigger group. Kits available.

Purchase a hammer/adjustable sear combo from someone:
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearc...djustable+sear

If you can do this buy the adjustable sear,
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...letus+hungwell

Put in a torsion spring for the trigger return. Remove and save the old one.

Don't mess with the main spring.

Go buy one box of every brand of ammo and find the one it likes. Don't spring for the +P loads. Some are longer than a LR and accuracy suffers. They make barrels chambered for the +P.

Mine does a fairly consistent 3/4" at 50 yards with CCI Mini Mags standard velocity. 'Course the 32x scope helps a little.

 

[two77]

Why are you determined for it to be a 10-22? A CZ 455 would cost you no more than buying the Ruger and then upgrading it. You might also look at the Savage if you want to save a few bucks.

 

[Errant_Venture]

Need some advice from the rimfire gurus. embarrassed to say i dont have a long gun chambered in .22

I'd like to buy or build something that is fun to shoot and accurate. The more I read up on the 10/22s i get the impression that if you want to make it a decent stick you have to mod half gun. Ruger has a few models that are a little bit more in price and marketed as "target" guns. Are these any good or will they still require some work to get them tuned?

So what say you? Better to start from scratch or buy one and mod or buy a model gtg out of the box? Or go with a different setup all together? Marlin? AR style rimfire?

i have a non threaded Stainless E.R. shaw bull barrel for sale for 75$ if you want it...

I still remember that nice .22 rifle of yours!

 

[Geerubb]

Just found a screaming deal on Tactical Solutions X-Rings for $588 - https://goo.gl/AcNkjF

Drop a new trigger in that and call it good.

 

[Wahoo95]

Just found a screaming deal on Tactical Solutions X-Rings for $588 - https://goo.gl/AcNkjF

Drop a new trigger in that and call it good.

I'd spend that money on a Fedderson Ridge Runner before a TacSol. They're nice but the accuracy can't compare to KIDD or Fedderson.

 

[slow is slow]

Definitely a new barrel or set back factory barrel and ream for "match" (bentz) chamber. To my knowledge, none of the factory has the tight match chambering.

Pin the firing pin. Generally removes flyers.

Slightly radius the back bottom of the bolt and add a dab of oil. The radius ensures smooth cocking and minimizes resistance.

Reduce headspace to .0425-.0428. They come from the factory with .055 headspace. 22 lr rim is .042.

Don't buy a "special" V block.

Pillar bed the action screw.

Glass bed the first 2" of the bull barrel. Since most any barrel you buy will be a slip fit, true the horizontals with the action and barrel when you bed it. All 10-22s experience "barrel droop" before fixed. Stabilize the barrel. Or have your receiver threaded and buy a threaded barrel. Or buy a threaded both. But glass the first 2" anyway.

Tie down the rear of the receiver. Economical way is to drill a hole through the stock lining up the hole with the back pin hole that holds the trigger group. Kits available.

Purchase a hammer/adjustable sear combo from someone:
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearc...djustable+sear

If you can do this buy the adjustable sear,
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...letus+hungwell

Put in a torsion spring for the trigger return. Remove and save the old one.

Don't mess with the main spring.

Go buy one box of every brand of ammo and find the one it likes. Don't spring for the +P loads. Some are longer than a LR and accuracy suffers. They make barrels chambered for the +P.

Mine does a fairly consistent 3/4" at 50 yards with CCI Mini Mags standard velocity. 'Course the 32x scope helps a little.

After reading this post, I've changed my mind, get the 455 off the shelf, replace trigger spring with yodave kit and enjoy the same accuracy.

 

[Studentofthegun]

As someone else has probably already said, a bolt gun is going to be the least expensive path to accuracy. Especially when it comes to a CZ or a Savage. You can build a 10/22 (and I think that's a better path than buying a target model. I echo what others have said if you go that route: suggest a KIDD barrel and KIDD trigger. The KIDD trigger kit is $105 and is really hard to beat.

I've pitted my CZs against several FrankenRuger 10/22s and the CZ almost always comes out on top. In only one instance was that not the case, and that fellow had $2k tied up in his rifle. A CZ with a Yo Dave trigger kit and a decent piece of glass (like a Muehler 8.5-25 x 44) is an awesome bench gun. That scope is about $175 if i remember right, and it is excellent. You can also opt for the Muehler 32x scope with the 30mm tube. It gathers even more light and is, in my opinion, a much better scope that the Weaver T36 that many people recommend.

If I were going to build a 10/22 it would probably end up costing me a lot more than simply buying a CZ and dropping in a trigger kit. The trigger kit is less than $20. I probably have one laying around somewhere. The CZ is going to be hard to beat. There's a reason they call it the "poor man's Anschutz". If you really want a semi-auto, go ahead and build a 10/22 and I suggest the KIDD parts I mentioned and the measures that Red Cent outlined above. Otherwise go with the CZ 452 or 455. I would suggest the 455 Varmint.

 

[maven]

Why are you determined for it to be a 10-22? A CZ 455 would cost you no more than buying the Ruger and then upgrading it. You might also look at the Savage if you want to save a few bucks.

im feeling the semi auto over the bolt gun. just want to squeeze whatever accuracy I can out of it.

 

[maven]

barrel length: 16.5" vs 18?

if i understand correctly, rimfire hits peak velocity at 16" or so. Any extra barrel length does more to noise abatement than accuracy.

If you could have only one, which would it be?

 

[dalek]

Would > 16" mean bullet slows down or it keeps spinning some more? Let me put this way: how long are the Olympic .22 barrels?

 

[Red Cent]

thOm, either. That flea at 100 yards will never know the difference. You are correct. 16" is sufficient for burning the powder. Old fashioned, I went for the 18".

Dalek, Olympians use peep sights and that long barrel gives them sight radius out the patoo. The decrease in velocity makes no difference to the shooter. They make screw on hollow tubes for precision rifles simply to get more sight radius.

 

[CZfool68]

i want it to be a bench/target, "one ragged hole" rifle that is fun for seasoned and new shooters alike. ive got a scope waiting to go on something so I want to build a rifle that will be pretty accurate.

CZ. Then you don't have to mod the entire gun. Maybe just the trigger if you are really going benchrest.

 

[CZfool68]

If it's just a target rifle and nothing else, I might would look at some of the heavy barreled 10/22s. You can get one stock and drop a better trigger in it and be pretty accurate. For more money you could look at one of the kidd or magnum research models. I would say in the long run it would be cheaper to go ahead and buy a kidd instead of buying a stock 10/22 and replacing most of it with kidd or other aftermarket parts if that's the direction you feel like you might go. If you want ultimate accuracy get a cz 455. They have one called the varmint precision trainer that I'd love to get my hands on. But all of my cz .22s are absolute tack drivers.

This man speaks wisely.

 

[CZfool68]

If it's just a target rifle and nothing else, I might would look at some of the heavy barreled 10/22s. You can get one stock and drop a better trigger in it and be pretty accurate. For more money you could look at one of the kidd or magnum research models. I would say in the long run it would be cheaper to go ahead and buy a kidd instead of buying a stock 10/22 and replacing most of it with kidd or other aftermarket parts if that's the direction you feel like you might go. If you want ultimate accuracy get a cz 455. They have one called the varmint precision trainer that I'd love to get my hands on. But all of my cz .22s are absolute tack drivers.

thoughts on the Ruger 10/22 - model 1262?

is the cz inherently more accurate because its a bolt gun?

Stock CZ barrels are pretty dsrn good. You 'd have to go aftermarket for the 10/22 to do better. IMO.

 

[CZfool68]

im feeling the semi auto over the bolt gun. just want to squeeze whatever accuracy I can out of it.

CZ 512. Looks aren't for everybody but mine shoots about as good as my CZ Bolts. My trigger is decent. Older ones had awful 10/22 type triggers. And there isn't a slew of aftermarket triggers for it like a 10/22. But out of the box it is very nice.

 

[Red Cent]

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[Red Cent]

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The first picture is a replacement for your trigger return spring. The second picture is the placement of the torsion bar,

Some make this spring with music wire but the 2" safety pin in mine is still working going on 5 years. Or go buy a Kidd

This will not remove the creep and grit feeling but it will require less pressure on the trigger to drag the sear across the hammer notch.

 

[NKD]

IMO,
-If wanting a pleasant 10/22 for shooting fun stuff, plinking, and rimfire challenge: a 10/22 with a Kidd Trigger and Kidd extractor. Done.

If you want better accuracy for the above stuff: send barrel and bolt to a place like CPC for rechamber and crown and bolt truing. For less than the price of a cheap bull barrel you'll have a much better and more accurate stock barrel while retaining the balance of the stock carbine.

If you don't mind spending money for above, cut to the chase and buy a Tacsol rifle.

-If looking for accuracy, get a CZ bolt gun. Or, shell out a G for a Kidd rifle.
No point in building a 10/22 for accuracy off the stock Ruger. The only thing Ruger you will be left with is a cheap crap receiver.



Or, buy a 100$ crap bull barrel and post all day about it "driving tacks, if I do my part" lolz. Just my snide and snarky thoughts on it!

 

[NKD]

Just found a screaming deal on Tactical Solutions X-Rings for $588 - https://goo.gl/AcNkjF

Drop a new trigger in that and call it good.

I'd spend that money on a Fedderson Ridge Runner before a TacSol. They're nice but the accuracy can't compare to KIDD or Fedderson.

Tacsol is a steel challenge type gun. They are super lightweight aluminum barrels.

Apples and Oranges. If one were shooting steel challenge (or anything besides benching it) a Feddersen or any other bull barrel is a handicap.

 

[maven]

lots of good intel in this thread. i do appreciate all of the input.

at this point im leaning heavily towards buying a fully assembled KIDD 10/22 and calling it a day. If Im only going to have one 22 long gun in the stable (for now) might as well get the best. this thread has repeatedly brought cries for KIDD.

 

[pirate]

IMO,

Or, buy a 100$ crap bull barrel and post all day about it "driving tacks, if I do my part" lolz.

Come on brother that's what 98% of us do....don't spoil it for us! I just enjoy shooting flea's off the back of tree rats with a 4x scope.