10/22 steel gun - challenge level broke-ass dude

NCLivingBrit

NCLivingBrit

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Ok so I have a Ruger 10/22 youth model in an adult stock that I traded for yesterday. I am, on an almost zero budget (at least until I find work) going to try and tinker it up a bit to be competitive.

It's already got Williams fibre optic sights on it so that's a plus and it came with enough mags, but like most 10/22s the mag release is awful, the trigger is nothing special and the charging handle is dinky.

Charging handle is probably going to be one of those bolt on plastic bits, since the cheapest replacement I can find was $50-60.

Mag release can be polymer and ideally big for my fat fingers.

The trigger is where it gets expensive. Any recommendations for reasonably priced parts for the essentials? I'm going to need an auto bolt reelase too but those seem pretty cheap.

Eventually the stock will be swapped out, but the standard stock is fine for now.

Suggestions? And anyone with used parts to trade, I have ammo and such squirreled away :)
 
Here's what you can do on the cheap:

1) google how to do the auto bolt release mod for free. Just a file a little bit of time, and it'll be perfect.
2) You can do a JWH Custom charging handle for $25 or a Tactical Inc for $30.
3) You can probably find a used Hogue stock for $50, but the OEM one is fine for now.
4) Trigger - I would save my money until you can afford the Kidd Trigger job kit - $100. If you buy anything else you will just be wishing you had the Kidd. Don't bother with the BX trigger.

You can be plenty competitive with your current setup, because you don't have to reload and hopefully won't need to use your charging handle during the course of fire. Trigger will help tremendously though.
 
For the charging handle, I would check out the Spartan from Tandemkross. I have one and I love it!

https://www.tandemkross.com/Spartan...g-Handle-for-Ruger-1022-by-RimEdge_p_249.html

For the mag release, there are several on ebay that are not that expensive. Here is one I found for under $20:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-Custo...706385&hash=item3f72bbafe5:g:eIIAAOSwo4pYasz2

And as for the trigger you could upgrade to the Ruger BX Trigger for probably around $60-70 but personally I would save a little longer and buy the Kidd "Trigger Job". It is by far one of the best drop in kits. For the auto bolt release you have two options...either modify the one that is in it (there are videos on youtube and all you need is a dremel or file) or you can also order one from Tandemkross or include it with the Kidd trigger on their website.

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Tri...r-Sear-Disconnect-and-Trigger-blade_p_95.html

https://www.tandemkross.com/Guardian-Bolt-Release-Plate-for-1022_p_80.html

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask!
 
NCLivingBrit said:
Ok so I have a Ruger 10/22 youth model in an adult stock that I traded for yesterday. I am, on an almost zero budget (at least until I find work) going to try and tinker it up a bit to be competitive.

It's already got Williams fibre optic sights on it so that's a plus and it came with enough mags, but like most 10/22s the mag release is awful, the trigger is nothing special and the charging handle is dinky.

Charging handle is probably going to be one of those bolt on plastic bits, since the cheapest replacement I can find was $50-60.

Mag release can be polymer and ideally big for my fat fingers.

The trigger is where it gets expensive. Any recommendations for reasonably priced parts for the essentials? I'm going to need an auto bolt reelase too but those seem pretty cheap.

Eventually the stock will be swapped out, but the standard stock is fine for now.

Suggestions? And anyone with used parts to trade, I have ammo and such squirreled away :)
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Also checkout Brimstone Gunsmithing. They have some options for trigger work where you send your factory trigger in to them.
 
I found a Volquartsen hammer bundle with an auto bolt release but you can easily modify the stock release with a Dremel or a small file. The VQ hammer made a big difference in the trigger pull for not much money, BUT keep your factory trigger return Spring since many of us find that the lighter spring that comes in the kit will not reliably reset the trigger. I think I paid less than $40 for the bundle but that was 7-8 years ago.
 
Thanks for all the info fellas. I'm going to file my own bolt release. I've done it once before back in the day but I used a Dremel and buggered it up right proper.

I found a mag catch I like for a small sum, the rest it seems can come later.
 
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I checked Volquartsen and Kidd for a few parts and ending up placing a small order with Kidd for just about $50. Got a new bolt handle and rod, extractor and a buffer. Not huge upgrades, but it seems like several people recommended a new extractor in my thread. IIRC Kidd's bolt handles and rods were cheaper than Volquartsen's by a decent amount. Good luck with the build and the job hunt. I feel your pain.
 
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First two posters are top local rimfire steel shooters, so you can probably stop reading after those posts, lol. But here's my opinion anyway:

For steel challenge the most important thing is reliability, imo. Then, it's the trigger. Then, the balance/weight.
Accuracy is the least important, which is why I can only shake my head when people drop 150-200 on heavy bull barrels. Don't do that. It's pointless. They swing too slow. Most of the cheap ones aren't really much more accurate than a stock tapered, and many less so. Aluminum/lightweight barrels are a different story.
The stock barrel is plenty accurate, and can be made more accurate fairly cheaply.
Another downside to many aftermarket barrels is a tight target chamber. You do NOT want this. This is the opposite of what you need. You do not need or want what is required to make your rifle a "tack driver". You need a rifle that cycles really fast and really reliably with cheap .22 ammo, and is as accurate as the stock rifle.

-So first thing I do is take gun apart and debur and polish anything in the bolt/receiver interface that is less than smooth. That usually means the entire bolt and the entire inside of receiver. I also check that the chamber is clean and clear and that the ammo I plan to use easily is chambered and extracted.
-Then, I replace the trigger. I go straight to the Kidd drop in kit, because experience has taught me I will be happy with this and it works.
-Then, the extractor (I just order it with the trigger). The stock one will last a couple thousand rounds, ime. You can then take it out and sharpen the claw and get some more life out of it. But just cut to the chase now before it screws you in a match, which it will.


This is just what I learned with several different 10/22's, as a bare minimum to compete with one. If your gun runs without hickups then you will place based on your shooting skill. You can buy better shooting skills, unfortunately. When you start getting better at it, you can start to customize how you feel you should to improve the feel of the gun.

Such amazing little guns. Of course, you can spend thousands on nice race gun clones, too. Nothing wrong with that, just depends on budget. I've had good luck with stock guns with a little elbow grease.
 
I came here to recommend a Kidd extractor and drop in trigger kit as well as polishing the bolt and interior of the receiver. But NKD and others beat me to it. The extractor is extremely important, and I wouldn't bother trying to sharpen it just because it is easy to put the wrong angle on it or create a burr. The extractor only costs about $11 or so. Power Custom makes a good one. Volquartsen makes a good one. Kidd makes my favorite one.

I wouldn't worry about a charging handle. Best case is to get your rifle running right and then it won't be an issue.

The most important thing you can do is to go ahead and attend the matches. My humble advice (for the long term) is to do that and see what equipment other people have. If you're going to the one at DPRC, you'll be hard pressed to find a kinder group of folks. Ask what others are using and often they'll let you try out their guns. This will give you a good idea what you might want to do down the road.

A couple weeks ago I picked up a bone stock Ruger and shot a few timed strings. It was about 0.3 seconds slower per string than my super duper flat top Tactical Solutions race gun. To reiterate what NKD was saying above, it's more about the bowman than the arrow.
 
I've seen the polishing receiver and bolt mentioned several times. Are there any good write ups or youtube videos worth checking out? I've always just shot them into submission :-D

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Geerubb said:
I've seen the polishing receiver and bolt mentioned several times. Are there any good write ups or youtube videos worth checking out? I've always just shot them into submission :-D

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
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That's actually the best way to do it!

I just have a close look at the areas, figure out what needs to be flatttened out, and go to town with various tools/grits, then flitz and a dremel. The area where the bolt rides gets special consideration. I also radius the bottom back of the bolt a bit.

But shooting it a lot does much the same thing. I just like to get out of the gate a little bit ahead with smoothing things out. Some don't need it at all. But I would probably do it anyway. The few that I have done all ran noticeably better after doing it.

Of course, a Tacsol/Kidd/VQ is going to be sweet out of the box most likely.
 
Geerubb said:
I've seen the polishing receiver and bolt mentioned several times. Are there any good write ups or youtube videos worth checking out? I've always just shot them into submission :-D
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This one is decent. Of course, I wouldn't polish the hammer though, just go ahead and replace it.

 
Studentofthegun said:
This one is decent. Of course, I wouldn't polish the hammer though, just go ahead and replace it.

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Thanks for that. Just threw together a mut/parts gun from left over stuff and the receiver is much rougher then my Stainless one. I'll have to do this and drop a Kidd in it.

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Studentofthegun said:
This one is decent. Of course, I wouldn't polish the hammer though, just go ahead and replace it.

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Good vid! None of that looks impossible.

I've just got done modding the bolt release. I've got a larger mag release on the way since it was within reach. I'd like a larger charging handle just because, I just plain don't like grabbing the teeny stock one :)

Polishing the bolt a little and cleaning the powder coat from inside the receiver seem doable. I will also be totally gutting the trigger group and scrubbing that sucker, the previous owner shot a lot of Golden Turds (and I got a bucket of em as part of the deal) so it's stripper frosted in there.

What ammo do y'all run in yours on the day typically?

Now if someone would kindly buy my Calico, I could get a Ruger 22lr handgun and some trigger bits......
 
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NCLivingBrit said:
What ammo do y'all run in yours on the day typically?
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Practice: Whatever I can get outside of Thunderturds and Goldenturds.

Match Day: CCI Standard or CCI High Velocity. Some others have had great luck with Blazer. The answer is: whatever runs best in your firearm.
 
Geerubb said:
Thanks for that. Just threw together a mut/parts gun from left over stuff and the receiver is much rougher then my Stainless one. I'll have to do this and drop a Kidd in it.

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Click to expand...

I also have a random parts gun now. I still need to steal the Kidd trigger kit out of it. Or buy another one and get the "parts bin gun" put together well enough to be my loaner/backup rifle.
 
Studentofthegun said:
Practice: Whatever I can get outside of Thunderturds and Goldenturds.

Match Day: CCI Standard or CCI High Velocity. Some others have had great luck with Blazer. The answer is: whatever runs best in your firearm.
Click to expand...


I've got a couple bulk packs of Blazer in the stash, they're a few years old but they should still be ok. Im hoping to try the rifle out a bit tomorrow, I'll see how she runs.
 
"Studentofthegun, post: 199698, member: 37"It's more about the bowman than the arrow.
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Oh now I know I'm doomed ;)
 
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Definitely look up how to radius the lower back edge of the bolt. That smooths out the hammer reset and the whole cycling process. More reliable with standard velocity ammo for sure. Easy to do yourself. Even if you don't do it, keep the hammer face or that bolt edge lubed.
 
JimP42 said:
Definitely look up how to radius the lower back edge of the bolt. That smooths out the hammer reset and the whole cycling process. More reliable with standard velocity ammo for sure. Easy to do yourself. Even if you don't do it, keep the hammer face or that bolt edge lubed.
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I was just debating trying that. I've done some pretty extensive (and horrific) bolt modification back in my Bubba SKS days but this time I know, more or less, what I'm doing. And no Dremel.
 
Daleo8803 said:
Ok I'm stupid. What does the auto bolt release do? And why is it so recommended? Thanks ;)
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Whenever you have to insert a fresh magazine when the previous magazine has run dry, it is a two handed operation to get the bolt to close. You have to pull back on it and simultaneously hit the release. Kind of inconvenient.
 
Daleo8803 said:
Ok I'm stupid. What does the auto bolt release do? And why is it so recommended? Thanks ;)
Click to expand...

The Ruger 10/22 standard bolt release is a bit different than most semi-autos. Normally you would have to pull back on the charging handle then manipulate the bolt catch (which is fiddly) to get the bolt to fall forward. The auto-release mod makes it work like most of the semi rifles, in that pulling back on the charging handle unlocks the bolt and allows it to fall forward.
 
NCLivingBrit said:
I was just debating trying that. I've done some pretty extensive (and horrific) bolt modification back in my Bubba SKS days but this time I know, more or less, what I'm doing. And no Dremel.
Click to expand...

No Dremel!
Sandpaper on a flat surface. Keep the back edge even and square to the sides, but with a curve to push the hammer when it cycles instead of slamming into it.
 
Ok so did some informal plinking/"does this gun run?" testing yesterday.

100rds mixed of aimed fire and mag dumps was all I had time for, but it shoots where I aim it, the sights show up like beacons and other than a couple of malfs in a row it ran fine. Since it's still dirty in there with Golden Turd Residue I'm guessing it will run even better once I sluice it out.

Now poking through my bits box for stuff to sell to get a Kidd trigger upgrade sooner rather than later.

And I never realise quite how blind I am until I shoot at something. New eyeballs might be my best bet for something other than piss poor performance.
 
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I have an extended charging handle you can have and I have more than one spare factory hammer on hand if you want to try a little home gunsmithing. Feel free to poke around in my parts box. Of course I gotta get your arse to a match first.....lol

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CrashTestDummy said:
I have an extended charging handle you can have and I have more than one spare factory hammer on hand if you want to try a little home gunsmithing. Feel free to poke around in my parts box. Of course I gotta get your arse to a match first.....lol

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Thanks! Yeah the heat is a big killer of the desire to go anywhere that isn't seriously air conditioned :)

As it wanes I become significantly more likely to appear. This way I avoid becoming a puddle of fat guy.
 
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NCLivingBrit said:
Thanks! Yeah the heat is a big killer of the desire to go anywhere that isn't seriously air conditioned :)

As it wanes I become significantly more likely to appear. This way I avoid becoming a puddle of fat guy.
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It'll be pretty nice in September. In July and August my tradition is to go up and shoot the 2 gun rimfire match in Boone. When it's 95 degrees here, up there it's in the mid to high 70's with a nice breeze.
 
Got the new magazine release in, going to find my sandpaper and stripper and work on the bolt and inside receiver next.

20170720_180254-1.jpg

I'm considering adding a little Magpul rail to the bottom of the standard stock so I can stick a handstop there and give myself a consistent hand placement. It's been a net benefit to me previously.
 
Just tried to get the bolt out and the buffer pin is in there too tight to get out with my lack of tools. Guess I'll have to go get a set of proper brass punches tomorrow, or sort through dozens of totes in the storage unit in 100+ heat. Neither sounds like fun.
 
NCLivingBrit said:
Just tried to get the bolt out and the buffer pin is in there too tight to get out with my lack of tools. Guess I'll have to go get a set of proper brass punches tomorrow, or sort through dozens of totes in the storage unit in 100+ heat. Neither sounds like fun.
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I'd suggest sorting through the storage unit late this afternoon. Then when you get home you have an excuse for a cold shower and cold adult beverages. :D

Where are you located? I have some punches you could use. Plus it shouldn't be too tight. Maybe a little penetrating oil. Place a piece of tape or something over the end to protect it a bit, and use a screw driver gently.
 
CZfool68 said:
I'd suggest sorting through the storage unit late this afternoon. Then when you get home you have an excuse for a cold shower and cold adult beverages. :D

Where are you located? I have some punches you could use. Plus it shouldn't be too tight. Maybe a little penetrating oil. Place a piece of tape or something over the end to protect it a bit, and use a screw driver gently.
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Thanks, I found a single punch and got it out. I'm in Kernersville.

Sanded the bolt, now I need to find the compound. I'm skipping the storage today, too damn hot and I've got baking to do.
 
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NCLivingBrit said:
Thanks, I found a single punch and got it out. I'm in Kernersville.

Sanded the bolt, now I need to find the compound. I'm skipping the storage today, too damn hot and I've got baking to do.
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I skipped the finishing compound step. Mine is pretty slick anyway. Lube it up and shoot it is my plan. It's a few hundered dollar 10/22 not a competition bench rest rifle for me so I figured shoot, shoot and repeat. Mine just needs to consistently function and be decently accurate. I am waiting on a couple more things, amd then I can finish it off.
 
CZfool68 said:
I skipped the finishing compound step. Mine is pretty slick anyway. Lube it up and shoot it is my plan. It's a few hundered dollar 10/22 not a competition bench rest rifle for me so I figured shoot, shoot and repeat. Mine just needs to consistently function and be decently accurate. I am waiting on a couple more things, amd then I can finish it off.
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I've got the compound so why not?

It's not like I haven't polished stuff less important.
 
NCLivingBrit said:
I've got the compound so why not?

It's not like I haven't polished stuff less important.
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Agreed. I just can't magine why it would need to be any smoother than it is. I've got a $2,000 with less polish on contact points that shoots just fine. Then again what the #*^+ do I know?
 
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