10/22s

i love my 10/22s and can see stock and trigger changes but dont understand wanting a heavy barrel
Depends on the intended use. My Red 10/22 will be dropping weight and losing the optic and barrel. Going for a light weight rig for it.

The other is built for bench rest mainly. My next go is a cz457 bolt action for NRL22.
 
Ran my braced charger suppressed today. Hard to beat.
Ya know, especially if they get the brace issue tossed next month that’s a phenomenal idea. Been thinking a threaded 10/22 but I like your idea better.
 
Hard to beat the Charger or the 10-22 suppressed.
Really enjoy the Charger with a brace!

Hope they don't pass a new rule or law next month!
 
My 10-22 is pretty much stock except for a ghost ring rear sight and hi-viz front and of course the custom painted furniture. I shoot it every month in the DPRC rimfire match

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Aluminum tape bedding is in process. I have the receiver fit to the stock, sanded out the barrel channel to provide clearance, then made another 1.5” aluminum pad for a barrel supportI. Yesterday was windy but I was able to test the accuracy with the pad position for CCI SV and Norma Tac22. The position made a big difference surprisingly.

P1 was all the way out and then each one was 1.5” closer to the action. Both Norma and CCI had the best accuracy at P3 3” in from the end.

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Aluminum tape bedding is in process. I have the receiver fit to the stock, sanded out the barrel channel to provide clearance, then made another 1.5” aluminum pad for a barrel supportI. Yesterday was windy but I was able to test the accuracy with the pad position for CCI SV and Norma Tac22. The position made a big difference surprisingly.

P1 was all the way out and then each one was 1.5” closer to the action. Both Norma and CCI had the best accuracy at P3 3” in from the end.

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Good work! I have a couple 10/22 tape jobs. I’ve found adding some to the very rear where the trigger housing sits is a great improvement. It helps anchor the rear of the receiver. Just add a few little strips at a time (to fill the gap) until it’s good and snug. I also tape the sides in rear to eliminate side to side movement.

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Yep. I have a few strips in aluminum tape in mine too.

@Nebowictz What's the thing under your barrel? Looks like a chunk of cardboard sticking out. Wouldn't it be better to float it?
 
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My old (1974) updated, only the receiver and bolt are original. A donated walnut stock from a gun shop closing up. E.R. Shaw no sights barrel. Ruger BX trigger group (have the original metal group). Vortex 2-7x33 rimfire scope.
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Yep. I have a few strips in aluminum tape in mine too.

What's the thing under your barrel? Looks like a chunk of cardboard sticking out. Wouldn't it be better to float it?

It's strips of aluminum tape. So when I bid on the barrel at an auction I thought it was one of their newer .72" tapered barrels but it was actually one of their old discontinued pencil/factory profile barrel. Talking to one of Clark Custom's techs they were adamant about not floating the pencil barrels and they said the best way for their pencil barrels was to bed the receiver and support the barrel and test the position of the support starting at the end. Though it wouldn't hurt to test it out complete free-floated. I'll test that next time I head out.

I have been following the SuperStock thread from Rimfire Central. So using aluminum tape, I taped the back of the receiver till it was tight front to back, then I taped the side till it is tight side to side. Sanded out the barrel channel till it was free then layered 5-7 strips of tape for the barrel support and started testing the support positions. The position definitely made a difference. I used a torque wrench on the action screw each time I assembled/disassembled to make sure it was consistent.
 
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