1937 Dodge D5 Sedan
- Thread starter Sharps40
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OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Much to do starting tomorrow.....back to front again. Align the engine/trans up/down, left/right and forward/back. Check fit and potentially modify the Power steering pump bracket, fabricate the trans cross member, repair the frame x member where it was cut out to fit the ginormous other GM transmission, trim and drill the motor mounts, install the frame brackets for the motor mounts, etc.....prolly a couple days with everything still sitting or hanging on chains and jacks and such.....but, great progress. Couldn't have done it without help from GoodWife! Feels real good to have all that heavy iron off the stand where it could have fallen and sitting in better security between the frame rails.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
A full day today. Temporary brace for the transmission, no more jack support, everything taking its weight and I don't have to rely on hydraulics to hold it all up.
Hours spent measuring and aligning engine/trans to frame and rear but its all within 1/16" any way i measure it. Trans will need a stiffer brace but for now, this gets me centered and allows me to shove the engine back once I bring its nose down some more.
Yard work and vet visit tomorrow but Fri and Sat should be trimming the motor mounts to drop the front of the engine down several more degrees.
So, I have left to right figured out. Next is up down and then finally, front to back. After that, more measuring and selection of distributor and exhaust system. Then steering and brake and suspension and wiring and fuel plumbing and.....
She's coming along.
A full day today. Temporary brace for the transmission, no more jack support, everything taking its weight and I don't have to rely on hydraulics to hold it all up.
Hours spent measuring and aligning engine/trans to frame and rear but its all within 1/16" any way i measure it. Trans will need a stiffer brace but for now, this gets me centered and allows me to shove the engine back once I bring its nose down some more.
Yard work and vet visit tomorrow but Fri and Sat should be trimming the motor mounts to drop the front of the engine down several more degrees.
So, I have left to right figured out. Next is up down and then finally, front to back. After that, more measuring and selection of distributor and exhaust system. Then steering and brake and suspension and wiring and fuel plumbing and.....
She's coming along.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
It don't look like much but one more big job tackled. Spent the morning on the Passenger Side, working positions for the lower motor mount bracket. Made up a drill jig and lots of measuring and found I could decrease the engine angle from 10 degrees to 5 degrees by dropping the front end about 1/2".....this put the motor mount bracket bolts just above the bottom of the arch in the front frame. I'll increase the bolt diameter later and sleeve the boxed portion of the frame to prevent pinching when the bolts are torqued. Probably also add an external plate and weld it all once finalized. Still need to trim this side and pretty it up but tomorrow I'll use the drill jig (indexed off the lower and now unused shock bolt hole) to set the Drivers side lower motor mount bracket.
The brackets are set 1/2" further back than the motor mount center line as we have enough room to scooch the motor back. Should still allow us choice of large or small cap distributor and gets the crankshaft triple pulley off the steering rack and out of the radiator.
In any event, the newly installed PS motor mount is taking weight and we should be 75% done with the installation by lunch tomorrow. After that, I'll clean up the mounts for aesthetics and figure out how to elevate the power steering pump brackets we acquired from Alan Grove in order to clearance the steering pinion.
Last step will be to check the angle at the tail of the trans and see if it needs to go up or down any.
Progress.
PS....we still had time to spread 3 cu yd of rocks in the front yard! Retirement is grand!
It don't look like much but one more big job tackled. Spent the morning on the Passenger Side, working positions for the lower motor mount bracket. Made up a drill jig and lots of measuring and found I could decrease the engine angle from 10 degrees to 5 degrees by dropping the front end about 1/2".....this put the motor mount bracket bolts just above the bottom of the arch in the front frame. I'll increase the bolt diameter later and sleeve the boxed portion of the frame to prevent pinching when the bolts are torqued. Probably also add an external plate and weld it all once finalized. Still need to trim this side and pretty it up but tomorrow I'll use the drill jig (indexed off the lower and now unused shock bolt hole) to set the Drivers side lower motor mount bracket.
The brackets are set 1/2" further back than the motor mount center line as we have enough room to scooch the motor back. Should still allow us choice of large or small cap distributor and gets the crankshaft triple pulley off the steering rack and out of the radiator.
In any event, the newly installed PS motor mount is taking weight and we should be 75% done with the installation by lunch tomorrow. After that, I'll clean up the mounts for aesthetics and figure out how to elevate the power steering pump brackets we acquired from Alan Grove in order to clearance the steering pinion.
Last step will be to check the angle at the tail of the trans and see if it needs to go up or down any.
Progress.
PS....we still had time to spread 3 cu yd of rocks in the front yard! Retirement is grand!
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Motor is approaching 75% installed. Finalizing motor mounts out front. Accessories bolted on and drive pulleys aligned, much creative cutting and drilling of the good quality Alan Grove accessory mounts to get them to fit in the space available.....damn, Bessy got a narrow frame. Some wiring and waiting the Dizzy, exhaust manifolds but should all fit good....even got room for steering now.
Motor is approaching 75% installed. Finalizing motor mounts out front. Accessories bolted on and drive pulleys aligned, much creative cutting and drilling of the good quality Alan Grove accessory mounts to get them to fit in the space available.....damn, Bessy got a narrow frame. Some wiring and waiting the Dizzy, exhaust manifolds but should all fit good....even got room for steering now.
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OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Tossed the nose back on and started lining it up. 2.5" or more clearance between water pump and radiator. So, will still use a pusher fan, but may be room for a metal one. Almost time to order all the steering and radiator...another week or two.
Tossed the nose back on and started lining it up. 2.5" or more clearance between water pump and radiator. So, will still use a pusher fan, but may be room for a metal one. Almost time to order all the steering and radiator...another week or two.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad.
1 motor mount completed. Added crush sleeves for the bolts and a plate to weld in to reinforce where the holes were for the various flathead and Ford inline once sat. Plate and mount will get perimeter welded.
Off to finish the drivers side then to the trans mounts.
Exhaust manifolds should be here in a day or so.
1 motor mount completed. Added crush sleeves for the bolts and a plate to weld in to reinforce where the holes were for the various flathead and Ford inline once sat. Plate and mount will get perimeter welded.
Off to finish the drivers side then to the trans mounts.
Exhaust manifolds should be here in a day or so.
Nice work, Sharps! Must be satisfying to see things moving along now.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad. Fuel pressure regulator and gauge is in. Will run the big fuel injection style filter to keep the system clean and initially a second at the tank since the tank cleaning never cleans out all the old junk.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Getting ready for the final big push on the mechanical parts.
Called Walker Radiator in TN....Ordered a brass radiator with auto trans cooler. Will sort the fan once we see how it fits and what the clearance is.
Ordered the steering u joints, stainless tilt column and stainless and mahogany Banjo Steering wheel.
A few odds and ends needed to button up the motor like spark plug boots, throttle/kick down bracket, chrome trans inspection cover, etc.
Once the steering is in the last big job will be to set up the brake master and power booster, we have three options for brakes. Firewall, frame or under dash mount.
Getting ready for the final big push on the mechanical parts.
Called Walker Radiator in TN....Ordered a brass radiator with auto trans cooler. Will sort the fan once we see how it fits and what the clearance is.
Ordered the steering u joints, stainless tilt column and stainless and mahogany Banjo Steering wheel.
A few odds and ends needed to button up the motor like spark plug boots, throttle/kick down bracket, chrome trans inspection cover, etc.
Once the steering is in the last big job will be to set up the brake master and power booster, we have three options for brakes. Firewall, frame or under dash mount.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Starting the mock up of steering shafts while we await arrival of the parts. In bound is a double u-joint, a single u-joint, a support bearing for the double joint, Stainless Steel tilt steering column and a Mahogany and Stainless steel Banjo steering wheel. The column has 5 position tilt, turn signals, horn, etc. Its looking like the shop set the hole for the steering column too high in the firewall. May have to patch that one/use it for wiring input and cut a new hole lower (black tape) for the column. Angles look good. Plenty of clearance on the motor mounts and power steering pump. The toughest angle will be at the firewall and I suspect it'll be well under the maximum of 35 degrees. This first wag shows us somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 degrees. Measurements will be more accurate one I have all the parts and start the install later this week.
Starting the mock up of steering shafts while we await arrival of the parts. In bound is a double u-joint, a single u-joint, a support bearing for the double joint, Stainless Steel tilt steering column and a Mahogany and Stainless steel Banjo steering wheel. The column has 5 position tilt, turn signals, horn, etc. Its looking like the shop set the hole for the steering column too high in the firewall. May have to patch that one/use it for wiring input and cut a new hole lower (black tape) for the column. Angles look good. Plenty of clearance on the motor mounts and power steering pump. The toughest angle will be at the firewall and I suspect it'll be well under the maximum of 35 degrees. This first wag shows us somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 degrees. Measurements will be more accurate one I have all the parts and start the install later this week.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Long day, lots of progress.
Been thinking about your Dad, Pappy, all day while I struggled with installation of the transmission inspection cover. Each bolt i installed stripped the threads in the aluminum housing and wouldn't snug up. Cast about for new bolts, none, not even thread cutting versions. Couldn't find the right tap to clean out the holes, couldn't find the right tap for the next size up. Then I thought of Pappy's like new but 70 year old tap and die set. Dug it out and low and behold, a perfect new old tap in the correct next size up......5 minutes later all the mounting holes were drilled and tapped and the chrome inspection cover sitting neatly between the engine and transmission.
I measured the new all brass Walker 3 tube radiator with transmission cooler. 22 inches across. Measured the nose and it was 22 inches at the bottom tapering to 21 inches at the top. What to cut.....the cars radiator mounts or the new radiator itself......then i noticed, the shop had cut out the center brace in the nose. It fits in front of the radiator and when they removed it, for whatever reason, the top pinched in. So, I knocked in a piece of oak of the right length to see if it would spread, it did. So, a new center brace was made up and fitted in front of the radiator, including the original wiring clips to route the headlight and horn wires and we were in business. The new radiator slid right into place and looks grand. So, I spose its about time to button up the motor, wire it and hopefully soon, turn the key!
Long day, lots of progress.
Been thinking about your Dad, Pappy, all day while I struggled with installation of the transmission inspection cover. Each bolt i installed stripped the threads in the aluminum housing and wouldn't snug up. Cast about for new bolts, none, not even thread cutting versions. Couldn't find the right tap to clean out the holes, couldn't find the right tap for the next size up. Then I thought of Pappy's like new but 70 year old tap and die set. Dug it out and low and behold, a perfect new old tap in the correct next size up......5 minutes later all the mounting holes were drilled and tapped and the chrome inspection cover sitting neatly between the engine and transmission.
I measured the new all brass Walker 3 tube radiator with transmission cooler. 22 inches across. Measured the nose and it was 22 inches at the bottom tapering to 21 inches at the top. What to cut.....the cars radiator mounts or the new radiator itself......then i noticed, the shop had cut out the center brace in the nose. It fits in front of the radiator and when they removed it, for whatever reason, the top pinched in. So, I knocked in a piece of oak of the right length to see if it would spread, it did. So, a new center brace was made up and fitted in front of the radiator, including the original wiring clips to route the headlight and horn wires and we were in business. The new radiator slid right into place and looks grand. So, I spose its about time to button up the motor, wire it and hopefully soon, turn the key!
Still following...
I'll admit that I'm personally glad you decided to go against using the LSx. So much more classy in its current state.
Absolutely beautiful.
I'll admit that I'm personally glad you decided to go against using the LSx. So much more classy in its current state.
Absolutely beautiful.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Coming along. PS side all lines up pretty good. DS side where all the accident damage was repaired, not so much. Still looks decent but the shop didn't do any alignment or at least minimal prior to painting and then destroying the paint in the pack and ship process. She should look fine and go good but that still won't alleviate the shop from being ****ers.
But, yeah, the v8 and multi carbs suits the original theme way more better. Looks more like a 19 year old fellas car back in the mid 60s. Almost selected a 283 or 327 but the base model 350 does more than either of those and costs 60% less. So, it still looks the period but 350 inches is better than less any day of the week.
But, yeah, the v8 and multi carbs suits the original theme way more better. Looks more like a 19 year old fellas car back in the mid 60s. Almost selected a 283 or 327 but the base model 350 does more than either of those and costs 60% less. So, it still looks the period but 350 inches is better than less any day of the week.
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OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Reproduction 1937 Ford Steering Wheel has been converted to 1937 Dodge. Trimmed Bessy's original horn button skin tio the right size. Gave it a buff. Glued it to the horn button of the replacement steering wheel. Like they were made for each other. Now if the damn FedEx will just get off their butts and stop carrying the steering column on the truck for the last 6 days and actually make a rural delivery! I'd like to finish the steering....only a few hours work once the durn truck gets here.
Reproduction 1937 Ford Steering Wheel has been converted to 1937 Dodge. Trimmed Bessy's original horn button skin tio the right size. Gave it a buff. Glued it to the horn button of the replacement steering wheel. Like they were made for each other. Now if the damn FedEx will just get off their butts and stop carrying the steering column on the truck for the last 6 days and actually make a rural delivery! I'd like to finish the steering....only a few hours work once the durn truck gets here.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
The flexalite black majic extreme electric fan with shroud was on sale on amazon. Regular $250, got it for $128. 15" s blade, reversible, adjustable fan controller, shrouded booted, not thru core mounted (brackets instead), 3300 cfm, soft start, and its sized perfect for the radiator of an 83 year old car. So......no metal fan, gonna give it a try.
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I can feel that thang already... can't wait fer the movie of the first crankin', with the volume turned up!
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Found the needed room by moving the cross brace and radiator forward 1 3/4 inches. Not sure I like the high mounted alan grove alternator bracket. Belt wrap on the water pump is about 25% of diameter so I installed a double alternator pulley. If it slips, I'll get or make up a passenger side alternator mount to try to get more wrap over the pump pulley.
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OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Progress on a lot of little things. Motor sitting in there and I really want to fire it off but it ain't like stickin one in a daily driver. So many little things to attend to first.
Rather than cobble together bits and pipes and elbows, I decided to go ahead and raise the radiator one inch. Got that half done today, finish it in the morning. No worries, plenty of room to get the radiator cap on and off and now the simple addition of a flexible lower hose (rather than a multi piece hose) will clear the fluid pipes on the power steering rack.
the steering column installed at the top and will finish locking it down at the firewall tomorrow.
Looks good, a 28 inch unit was the perfect length, stainless with tilt. Its centered on the gauge panel and running within 1/16 inch of true. I'll probably trim the lower end of the column shaft to ease the angles on the joints a bit but all are well under 35 degrees. The tightest clearance is 3/8 inch and so, none of the shafts or joints will bump into stuff.
Nearly a full day was spent fitting the steering wheel to the column. Everything is universal/generic fit which means, make it fit yourself. It all bolted up okay but there was no room for the horn button. I needed 2 milimeters so.....out came the hand tools and got the top of the shaft trimmed, the retention nut thinned and the adapter fitted for full spline contact. Also had to fix the horn contacts as they were too short and no continuity.......so, shorten some parts, lentghen others and I picked up 3.5 mm of room inside the horn button. Final assembly is pending and so is final test, but I am confident we'll have a horn button in the center of that pretty Steering wheel that sounds off when you want it to.
Found some down pipes for the exhaust manifolds, waiting on exhaust doughnuts to fit them up then perhaps modify a Chevy truck y-pipe so I can get a start on exhaust.
Looking at and modifying a battery box to sit on the passenger side frame behind the front wheel. Clearances look good but will require trimming the inner fender panel and making a heat shield.
Front joints on the steering rack are installed, shaft fitted and a support bearing installed. Once the column is locked into position and I receive another support bearing, I'll make up the final shaft on the steering. Power steering hoses should be here in a day or so and I have already installed the 2 gallon per minute flow valve that will let us use the chevy power steering pump on a ford steering rack.
Still don't like the Alan Grove alternator mount. Nice piece but not much belt contact at the waterpump due to the high position of the alternator....but Old Bessy is sharp nosed and there just aint' much room on the passenger side. I've added double pulleys to double the belt contact and I'll try a longer belt. But if it slips I'll have to get jiggy cuttin up the existing mount and see what can be done to lower the alternator so as to wrap the belts across more of the water pump pully. I wish there was an idler pully I could modify, put on with a longer belt and so have more contact around the pump.
I can see the end.....lots of work but the jobs go fast and Ol Bessy ain't fighting me too much.
Progress on a lot of little things. Motor sitting in there and I really want to fire it off but it ain't like stickin one in a daily driver. So many little things to attend to first.
Rather than cobble together bits and pipes and elbows, I decided to go ahead and raise the radiator one inch. Got that half done today, finish it in the morning. No worries, plenty of room to get the radiator cap on and off and now the simple addition of a flexible lower hose (rather than a multi piece hose) will clear the fluid pipes on the power steering rack.
the steering column installed at the top and will finish locking it down at the firewall tomorrow.
Looks good, a 28 inch unit was the perfect length, stainless with tilt. Its centered on the gauge panel and running within 1/16 inch of true. I'll probably trim the lower end of the column shaft to ease the angles on the joints a bit but all are well under 35 degrees. The tightest clearance is 3/8 inch and so, none of the shafts or joints will bump into stuff.
Nearly a full day was spent fitting the steering wheel to the column. Everything is universal/generic fit which means, make it fit yourself. It all bolted up okay but there was no room for the horn button. I needed 2 milimeters so.....out came the hand tools and got the top of the shaft trimmed, the retention nut thinned and the adapter fitted for full spline contact. Also had to fix the horn contacts as they were too short and no continuity.......so, shorten some parts, lentghen others and I picked up 3.5 mm of room inside the horn button. Final assembly is pending and so is final test, but I am confident we'll have a horn button in the center of that pretty Steering wheel that sounds off when you want it to.
Found some down pipes for the exhaust manifolds, waiting on exhaust doughnuts to fit them up then perhaps modify a Chevy truck y-pipe so I can get a start on exhaust.
Looking at and modifying a battery box to sit on the passenger side frame behind the front wheel. Clearances look good but will require trimming the inner fender panel and making a heat shield.
Front joints on the steering rack are installed, shaft fitted and a support bearing installed. Once the column is locked into position and I receive another support bearing, I'll make up the final shaft on the steering. Power steering hoses should be here in a day or so and I have already installed the 2 gallon per minute flow valve that will let us use the chevy power steering pump on a ford steering rack.
Still don't like the Alan Grove alternator mount. Nice piece but not much belt contact at the waterpump due to the high position of the alternator....but Old Bessy is sharp nosed and there just aint' much room on the passenger side. I've added double pulleys to double the belt contact and I'll try a longer belt. But if it slips I'll have to get jiggy cuttin up the existing mount and see what can be done to lower the alternator so as to wrap the belts across more of the water pump pully. I wish there was an idler pully I could modify, put on with a longer belt and so have more contact around the pump.
I can see the end.....lots of work but the jobs go fast and Ol Bessy ain't fighting me too much.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Stainless tilt steering column is finally in....for the last time. Moved it left 1/2" to line the center up with the gauge panel. I suppose the factory column sat off center due to the 19" steering wheel. This one is 15" and the shift not only looks better, it makes a bit more room for brake and gas pedals and slightly eases the angles on the steering shaft joints.
Spent the better part of a day chasing the electrical fault in the horn wire. Did a partial disassembly and tested each part of the horn circuit from top to bottom through all of its several connections within the button, hub and base. Finally found the main fault when tugging on the wires......bad crimp at the column base connector.....re-crimped and it works great now. I suppose I'll pull, check and crimp every wire on the new column now to make sure nothing else is loose. Sure is a lot of work on these universal fit parts but, satisfied in the end.
Oh yeah, the position of the wheel? Very nice! Gonna make for a smooth ride.
Stainless tilt steering column is finally in....for the last time. Moved it left 1/2" to line the center up with the gauge panel. I suppose the factory column sat off center due to the 19" steering wheel. This one is 15" and the shift not only looks better, it makes a bit more room for brake and gas pedals and slightly eases the angles on the steering shaft joints.
Spent the better part of a day chasing the electrical fault in the horn wire. Did a partial disassembly and tested each part of the horn circuit from top to bottom through all of its several connections within the button, hub and base. Finally found the main fault when tugging on the wires......bad crimp at the column base connector.....re-crimped and it works great now. I suppose I'll pull, check and crimp every wire on the new column now to make sure nothing else is loose. Sure is a lot of work on these universal fit parts but, satisfied in the end.
Oh yeah, the position of the wheel? Very nice! Gonna make for a smooth ride.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
She steers. A bit of movement in the flat bar that I used for a bracket on the one steering support bearing. Guess I'll have to remake it with a welded gusset. But no binding and the right hoses are on the way.....I ordered the wrong ones first time out. Been kinda trying figuring out what all parts the shop used, no list of parts, just look at em and guess mostly. Guessed wrong this time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Juc7CQNAgRU
She steers. A bit of movement in the flat bar that I used for a bracket on the one steering support bearing. Guess I'll have to remake it with a welded gusset. But no binding and the right hoses are on the way.....I ordered the wrong ones first time out. Been kinda trying figuring out what all parts the shop used, no list of parts, just look at em and guess mostly. Guessed wrong this time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Juc7CQNAgRU
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
No photos today but lots of work done. Took a break from all things motor to work on the front suspension now that much of the weight is on the car. Overall, front bumper dropped 1.75", measuring the body mounts at the cowl shows a 3/4" drop and the frame angle changed from 0 degrees/dead level to 1 degree down. All this with the removal of 1/2 coil from the front springs.
Still need to drop her more as the shocks indicated, at full extension they remain about 1/4 below the top mounting point. Also, the lower control arms leveled out from 21 degrees to 15 degrees down angle, we'll want them slightly down angled if not parallel to the ground with all the weight on, so a bit more trimming of the springs, perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 coil should do it in combination with the deeper of the two bottom spring mount points.
Bessy got mad at me for all the cutting today and she spit her drivers side coil spring at me while I was compressing it. Hit my knee and hurt a bit. Then she apologized and let me put the spring back in. Since there is another spring cut to do, I think I'll acquire a spring compresser to prevent launching one from under the car again. Bessy is okay, so is my knee.
Loosened up the top mounts on the suspension and roughly set the caster and camber. Wheels are about 1 degree in at the top and the top ball joint is slightly behind the lower now, sitting at an angle of about 3 degrees. Good enough till all the weight is on, final spring trim is completed, then recheck and readjust.
Set the tie rod ends at equal length and bolted them up. I had 2 inches of toe in so adjusted them equally to 3/16" toe in with the rubber on the rear of the tire equal distance from the frame rails.
So, pretty much set up as she needs to be for the first drive. Now have to go back to the steering wheel and get it straight up. By the way, nice rack on the car.....steering is quick, 1 full turn from center gets you hard left or hard right....should handle nicely.
Ordered the wrong power steering hoses, so, they go back and the right ones are on the way this week.
Finished up the steering column mechanical connections and made up a cover plate for the big giant hole the shop drilled in the firewall (in the wrong place I might add) when they were thinking about installing the steering. It looks fine and will be hidden below the brake system.
Brake system.....measurements indicate a floor mounted master and booster would fit, the pedal however, will not......engine and transmission position will interfere with the pedal stroke and preclude hiding the brake system below the floor board.
More measurements indicate a completely hidden brake system under the dash may well fit. However, durn difficult to fill and service the system and leaves no room at all for heat and/or air conditioning.
So....cutting some pie plates to size and fiddling with tape and markers show the best location for the power brakes is the traditional one, up on the fire wall in the engine bay. Plenty of room there.
No photos today but lots of work done. Took a break from all things motor to work on the front suspension now that much of the weight is on the car. Overall, front bumper dropped 1.75", measuring the body mounts at the cowl shows a 3/4" drop and the frame angle changed from 0 degrees/dead level to 1 degree down. All this with the removal of 1/2 coil from the front springs.
Still need to drop her more as the shocks indicated, at full extension they remain about 1/4 below the top mounting point. Also, the lower control arms leveled out from 21 degrees to 15 degrees down angle, we'll want them slightly down angled if not parallel to the ground with all the weight on, so a bit more trimming of the springs, perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 coil should do it in combination with the deeper of the two bottom spring mount points.
Bessy got mad at me for all the cutting today and she spit her drivers side coil spring at me while I was compressing it. Hit my knee and hurt a bit. Then she apologized and let me put the spring back in. Since there is another spring cut to do, I think I'll acquire a spring compresser to prevent launching one from under the car again. Bessy is okay, so is my knee.
Loosened up the top mounts on the suspension and roughly set the caster and camber. Wheels are about 1 degree in at the top and the top ball joint is slightly behind the lower now, sitting at an angle of about 3 degrees. Good enough till all the weight is on, final spring trim is completed, then recheck and readjust.
Set the tie rod ends at equal length and bolted them up. I had 2 inches of toe in so adjusted them equally to 3/16" toe in with the rubber on the rear of the tire equal distance from the frame rails.
So, pretty much set up as she needs to be for the first drive. Now have to go back to the steering wheel and get it straight up. By the way, nice rack on the car.....steering is quick, 1 full turn from center gets you hard left or hard right....should handle nicely.
Ordered the wrong power steering hoses, so, they go back and the right ones are on the way this week.
Finished up the steering column mechanical connections and made up a cover plate for the big giant hole the shop drilled in the firewall (in the wrong place I might add) when they were thinking about installing the steering. It looks fine and will be hidden below the brake system.
Brake system.....measurements indicate a floor mounted master and booster would fit, the pedal however, will not......engine and transmission position will interfere with the pedal stroke and preclude hiding the brake system below the floor board.
More measurements indicate a completely hidden brake system under the dash may well fit. However, durn difficult to fill and service the system and leaves no room at all for heat and/or air conditioning.
So....cutting some pie plates to size and fiddling with tape and markers show the best location for the power brakes is the traditional one, up on the fire wall in the engine bay. Plenty of room there.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Ordered the next to last of the big parts. Brake cylinder/pedal and power booster is inbound, so is an exhaust head pipe that could work for us. Last big part to get is a drive shaft. So, walking
around the car and getting on to the littler stuff.
Got an idea for a stiffer and simpler steering bearing bracket. Started it today, will finish it this week.
Started pulling the wiring together for the front of the car, firewall forward. Some needs to be routed and connected before the brakes go in place on the firewall as the harness will run behind those parts. Pinned the wires for the steering column and hooked up those seven leads for turn signals, hazards, horn and ground. Laid in the 150 amp main fuse for the harness and got leads run for the alternator and starter. (awaiting the shifter so I can hook up reverse and neutral safety).
Finally finished up playing musical fan belts. Had to do many modifications to the Alan Grove bracketry on the front of the motor so it would fit a Dodge. As such, the recommended belt lengths were no longer suitable. Measuring around the pulleys yielded belts variously too short and too long. After a number of trips and belt exchanges, I've setteled on 39 inches for the power steering and 50 inches for the waterpump/alternator. Got pretty good contact around the water pump pulley, some adjustment remains in the brackets to take up any stretch after the run in and I think it'll work
Pulled the leads forward for the headlights and horns. Didn't hook them up yet, as I'll finish wiring the engine first. Since we are running halogen headlights, I'll be installing relay switches to keep the high ampherage away from the dash and switches. It'll also ensure full power go's to the lights as there will be no loss through the switching or long leads.
Straightened up the steering wheel on the column.
Found some exhaust doughnuts that fit the Flowtech Rams Horn exhaust manifolds.
Gathered up a battery box, just gotta decide where to put it. If the exhaust head pipe works out, we'll be running a single exhaust down the drivers side. In that case, I'll either mount the battery under the passenger side fender or perhaps mimic the factory installation by simply moving the battery from the floor under the drivers seat to the floor under the passenger seat.
Ain't gotten around to thinking much on the emergency brake cables but after an initial look at the 87 Jimmy, its quite possible those cables can be run in reverse and serve for an ebrake for Ol Bessy. If so, a nice and inexpensive factory like solution.
Ordered the next to last of the big parts. Brake cylinder/pedal and power booster is inbound, so is an exhaust head pipe that could work for us. Last big part to get is a drive shaft. So, walking
around the car and getting on to the littler stuff.
Got an idea for a stiffer and simpler steering bearing bracket. Started it today, will finish it this week.
Started pulling the wiring together for the front of the car, firewall forward. Some needs to be routed and connected before the brakes go in place on the firewall as the harness will run behind those parts. Pinned the wires for the steering column and hooked up those seven leads for turn signals, hazards, horn and ground. Laid in the 150 amp main fuse for the harness and got leads run for the alternator and starter. (awaiting the shifter so I can hook up reverse and neutral safety).
Finally finished up playing musical fan belts. Had to do many modifications to the Alan Grove bracketry on the front of the motor so it would fit a Dodge. As such, the recommended belt lengths were no longer suitable. Measuring around the pulleys yielded belts variously too short and too long. After a number of trips and belt exchanges, I've setteled on 39 inches for the power steering and 50 inches for the waterpump/alternator. Got pretty good contact around the water pump pulley, some adjustment remains in the brackets to take up any stretch after the run in and I think it'll work
Pulled the leads forward for the headlights and horns. Didn't hook them up yet, as I'll finish wiring the engine first. Since we are running halogen headlights, I'll be installing relay switches to keep the high ampherage away from the dash and switches. It'll also ensure full power go's to the lights as there will be no loss through the switching or long leads.
Straightened up the steering wheel on the column.
Found some exhaust doughnuts that fit the Flowtech Rams Horn exhaust manifolds.
Gathered up a battery box, just gotta decide where to put it. If the exhaust head pipe works out, we'll be running a single exhaust down the drivers side. In that case, I'll either mount the battery under the passenger side fender or perhaps mimic the factory installation by simply moving the battery from the floor under the drivers seat to the floor under the passenger seat.
Ain't gotten around to thinking much on the emergency brake cables but after an initial look at the 87 Jimmy, its quite possible those cables can be run in reverse and serve for an ebrake for Ol Bessy. If so, a nice and inexpensive factory like solution.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad.
Started wiring the motor and power brakes arrived. Kenny stopped over to look at Bessy. Impressed I think. Several good pointers and as a lifetime professional mechanic, sees nothing out of place. He provided the gift of a drive shaft. Believe its out of a chevy truck and the front yolk should fit right up based on what I see in the reference data. If so, all we have to do is shorten it a few inches and make sure the rear u joint is the same one that go's on a 12 bolt rear end and we'll be in business for well under the price of a new custom made unit.
Started wiring the motor and power brakes arrived. Kenny stopped over to look at Bessy. Impressed I think. Several good pointers and as a lifetime professional mechanic, sees nothing out of place. He provided the gift of a drive shaft. Believe its out of a chevy truck and the front yolk should fit right up based on what I see in the reference data. If so, all we have to do is shorten it a few inches and make sure the rear u joint is the same one that go's on a 12 bolt rear end and we'll be in business for well under the price of a new custom made unit.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
I really don't like drilling holes in Ol Bessy. But some things are worth it. In this case, power brakes. Roughed in, fit is fine, plenty of clearance. I'll finish it tomorrow. Prolly have to shorten the brake pedal too but, for now..... And don't worry about that multi-color wiring.......I'll put it in black loom and it'll look much neater on the firewall
I really don't like drilling holes in Ol Bessy. But some things are worth it. In this case, power brakes. Roughed in, fit is fine, plenty of clearance. I'll finish it tomorrow. Prolly have to shorten the brake pedal too but, for now..... And don't worry about that multi-color wiring.......I'll put it in black loom and it'll look much neater on the firewall
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Good day working on Ol Bessy. Things are moving faster now with most of the big work completed.
Got the power master and booster/pedal assembly in place and locked down. Will fiddle with the pedal height after the floor is in. For now, the brakes are ready to be plumbed and juiced up.
Looks like we'll have room for an acclerator pedal.
Checked the driveshaft we received. Back end will need shortened and either a transition joint of a larger joint for the 12 bolt. I think since we'll be shortening it, I'll just have it welded with a new yoke for the larger joint, easier to find if I ever need another out on a road trip.
Both exhaust head pipe and shifter remain on manufacturers delay. Maybe in a week or two we'll see them. Not sure how we'll work the exhaust, the fuel tank is offset to the drivers side, so all the room for the tail pipe is opposite, as you recall, factory outlet was down the passenger side. Will see, but I'm sure we won't be installing dual exhaust.
Completed wiring the motor. Hooked up the battery charger and run a test of the cars systems at 2 amps. Everything works. Electrically, all that remains to hook up are neutral safety, battery, headlights, front lamps/turns, horn, radio, cigar lighter, usb power taps, heater motor and fuel tank sender. It was nice to see all the lights working out back, the dome lamp inside and all the dash lights powered up and those turn/hazard signals blinking on the dash in green while the back end lit up the blue dot lenses.
I'll probably disassemble and cut coils on the front suspension again this month. My 180 lbs on the front bumper don't even flex the coils so, I'm sure the addition of 2 fenders, oil and water won't either. We are close enough to go ahead an approach final ride height out front.
Good day working on Ol Bessy. Things are moving faster now with most of the big work completed.
Got the power master and booster/pedal assembly in place and locked down. Will fiddle with the pedal height after the floor is in. For now, the brakes are ready to be plumbed and juiced up.
Looks like we'll have room for an acclerator pedal.
Checked the driveshaft we received. Back end will need shortened and either a transition joint of a larger joint for the 12 bolt. I think since we'll be shortening it, I'll just have it welded with a new yoke for the larger joint, easier to find if I ever need another out on a road trip.
Both exhaust head pipe and shifter remain on manufacturers delay. Maybe in a week or two we'll see them. Not sure how we'll work the exhaust, the fuel tank is offset to the drivers side, so all the room for the tail pipe is opposite, as you recall, factory outlet was down the passenger side. Will see, but I'm sure we won't be installing dual exhaust.
Completed wiring the motor. Hooked up the battery charger and run a test of the cars systems at 2 amps. Everything works. Electrically, all that remains to hook up are neutral safety, battery, headlights, front lamps/turns, horn, radio, cigar lighter, usb power taps, heater motor and fuel tank sender. It was nice to see all the lights working out back, the dome lamp inside and all the dash lights powered up and those turn/hazard signals blinking on the dash in green while the back end lit up the blue dot lenses.
I'll probably disassemble and cut coils on the front suspension again this month. My 180 lbs on the front bumper don't even flex the coils so, I'm sure the addition of 2 fenders, oil and water won't either. We are close enough to go ahead an approach final ride height out front.