1937 Dodge D5 Sedan
- Thread starter Sharps40
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Nice. That version of the 'Bird was underrated - a modern take on the '56-'57 that made an impression on young Red Marley. Ride on, brother! 'Bird is the word!
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
She needs headlights and prolly a valve cover gaske . 68k miles. Jag engine with 5 speed AOD and manual shift gate, 8 speakers and heated seats for my tired ass. Now Ol Bessy has a coup to pal around with. It's good to be retired.
Last edited:
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
About ready for start tomorrow. Tool laid out, including fluids. First thing I'll get fresh gas and put 4 or 5 gallons in the tank. I'm placing a real time temp probe inside the radiator and we have the Infrared Gun to match against the gauges.
Engine already primed and was making 55 psi oil pressure on the small electrical drill.
Push her out about 10 am. Stage the tools, giant fan and tie down the exhaust pipes. We will blow fuel from tank to pump and prime the main carb, stand by fire extinguishers and should be cranking by 1100 hrs.
I'll call you just before we turn the key so you'll be on hand
About ready for start tomorrow. Tool laid out, including fluids. First thing I'll get fresh gas and put 4 or 5 gallons in the tank. I'm placing a real time temp probe inside the radiator and we have the Infrared Gun to match against the gauges.
Engine already primed and was making 55 psi oil pressure on the small electrical drill.
Push her out about 10 am. Stage the tools, giant fan and tie down the exhaust pipes. We will blow fuel from tank to pump and prime the main carb, stand by fire extinguishers and should be cranking by 1100 hrs.
I'll call you just before we turn the key so you'll be on hand
Good Luck Tomorrow Sharps. I'll be expecting to hear the roar of Ole Bessie in High Point
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Ok,
Bought this car cause I've wanted a coupe for a while. A v-8 coupe is grand. And, its a Thunderbird, I love it. Very sporty. I even went into the deal in the full knowledge that a red car like this sort of shouts "Nymphomaniac Wanted, Inquire within." But, I'm getting nervous. Three Girlie hits in the first 24 hours of ownership. Ya'd think that was great.....not really. All Blue Hair, Buick operators in upper 70s and early 80s Realy nervous. Hiding out in my basement in Pekin.
MacEntyre
Shoot on Sight!
2A Bourbon Hound OG
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If the shoe fits, put it on!
Not that there is anything wrong with that...
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Prepped and key on at 1030 7 March 2020. Last run was fall 1991 when she was struck and parked. Video is a compilation of the 45 minute break in. 15 mins at 2000 rpm, 10 minutes at 1500 rpm and the remainder at 1000 and 700 rpm. BigTen blew fuel to the front, primed the line from pump to carbs and took care of filling the trans and radiator while I bumbled around and tried not to poop my pants or puke. I love this car.
Some minor weeping at the pump and thermostat to correct with new gaskets, but everything else is fluid tight. On to the last of the mechanical and hydraulic systems now and then we'll get to tuning and exhaust.
Your Gal is almost ready to gallop!
(I recon we'll start a trend. Give it a month and all the youngins will have flex pipe exhaust running out the front of their tuners!)
Prepped and key on at 1030 7 March 2020. Last run was fall 1991 when she was struck and parked. Video is a compilation of the 45 minute break in. 15 mins at 2000 rpm, 10 minutes at 1500 rpm and the remainder at 1000 and 700 rpm. BigTen blew fuel to the front, primed the line from pump to carbs and took care of filling the trans and radiator while I bumbled around and tried not to poop my pants or puke. I love this car.
Some minor weeping at the pump and thermostat to correct with new gaskets, but everything else is fluid tight. On to the last of the mechanical and hydraulic systems now and then we'll get to tuning and exhaust.
Your Gal is almost ready to gallop!
(I recon we'll start a trend. Give it a month and all the youngins will have flex pipe exhaust running out the front of their tuners!)
Tonight you sleep the sleep of the just. Goodo.
Take me for a ride in the car, car
Take me for a ride in the car, car.
Take me for a ride, take me for a ride,
Take me for a ride in the car, car.
Take me for a ride in the car, car.
Take me for a ride, take me for a ride,
Take me for a ride in the car, car.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Brakes next. Went lokar front to back for the parking brake. Expensive but all matching maker and should work fine. I'll put it in first then follow with the brake lines. Ordered a coil of 3/16 tubing to plumb it and based on recommendation, all the fittings are for that line, eliminating many additional unions/less leak potential. Getting started on both next week. Antenna is on the way, probably mount up in front of the radiator, hidden. One its in and working, I'll call you from the car!
Last big part is the drive shaft. After that, nothing but driving and tweaking!
Brakes next. Went lokar front to back for the parking brake. Expensive but all matching maker and should work fine. I'll put it in first then follow with the brake lines. Ordered a coil of 3/16 tubing to plumb it and based on recommendation, all the fittings are for that line, eliminating many additional unions/less leak potential. Getting started on both next week. Antenna is on the way, probably mount up in front of the radiator, hidden. One its in and working, I'll call you from the car!
Last big part is the drive shaft. After that, nothing but driving and tweaking!
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
BigTen,
Thanks. Spent the afternoon following your instructions.
The weeping long bolt on the DS of the water pump did in fact enter the water jacket. Drained, pulled, dried, sealed and back in. Also, the weeping bolt in the PS of the second thermostat housing, blind hole but.....pulled the water neck, sanded the bottom flat. Cleaned it up and back in with the o-ring and sealant on the threads and the mating surfaces. I'll water it back up tomorrow and start her up. I'm figuring no leaks now.
In the big news, ripped out all of the excess parts for the steering shafts, put in three single joints and added the support bearing right where you said to put it. Dayum! All the bonk/clunk/push/pull is gone. Steers great and seemingly so little bind and movement in it that even the tiny #10 self taping screws used to position the bracket for welding don't break! Can't go down the road on those screws but good to know that the steering shafts are now bind free and smooth enough that even baby hands can hold it all together.
Thanks. Spent the afternoon following your instructions.
The weeping long bolt on the DS of the water pump did in fact enter the water jacket. Drained, pulled, dried, sealed and back in. Also, the weeping bolt in the PS of the second thermostat housing, blind hole but.....pulled the water neck, sanded the bottom flat. Cleaned it up and back in with the o-ring and sealant on the threads and the mating surfaces. I'll water it back up tomorrow and start her up. I'm figuring no leaks now.
In the big news, ripped out all of the excess parts for the steering shafts, put in three single joints and added the support bearing right where you said to put it. Dayum! All the bonk/clunk/push/pull is gone. Steers great and seemingly so little bind and movement in it that even the tiny #10 self taping screws used to position the bracket for welding don't break! Can't go down the road on those screws but good to know that the steering shafts are now bind free and smooth enough that even baby hands can hold it all together.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Up this morning working on the kinks in Ol Bessy, still waiting brake parts.
So, topped off the radiator, probably start it today, hopefully all the leaks/weeps are sealed.
Started filling the power steering pump. Wiggle the wheel, spin the pump with a drill and a belt, add more....got a quart in so far. Who knows what the capacity of a t-bird rack and Saganaw/GM pump is? I have two more quarts. I assume 3 is enough. So far no leaks, just my spills, missing the funnel.
Set the adjustable vacuum advance to mid point, engine revs smooth with the advance disconnected, but connected it idles fine then becomes rather rough off idle to WOT. 10 turns total advance in the can, ran it in to zero and backed up to the mid point, 5 turns out.
Trimmed the PCV hose as it was 3/8 inch too long and kept popping the pcv valve out of the grommet. A ragged edge with those cotton strings sticking out, so in the interest of a neat appearance, I decided to fix the ragged edge problem and learned life lesson 03182020.....
"Never use a lighter to burn off the ragged strings on the PCV hose while said hose is still connected to the engine." Very neatly cleaned up the visible end of the PCV hose and the back fire blew out my lighter for me!
So, taking a break and having coffee and calming my frayed nerves.
So, topped off the radiator, probably start it today, hopefully all the leaks/weeps are sealed.
Started filling the power steering pump. Wiggle the wheel, spin the pump with a drill and a belt, add more....got a quart in so far. Who knows what the capacity of a t-bird rack and Saganaw/GM pump is? I have two more quarts. I assume 3 is enough. So far no leaks, just my spills, missing the funnel.
Set the adjustable vacuum advance to mid point, engine revs smooth with the advance disconnected, but connected it idles fine then becomes rather rough off idle to WOT. 10 turns total advance in the can, ran it in to zero and backed up to the mid point, 5 turns out.
Trimmed the PCV hose as it was 3/8 inch too long and kept popping the pcv valve out of the grommet. A ragged edge with those cotton strings sticking out, so in the interest of a neat appearance, I decided to fix the ragged edge problem and learned life lesson 03182020.....
"Never use a lighter to burn off the ragged strings on the PCV hose while said hose is still connected to the engine." Very neatly cleaned up the visible end of the PCV hose and the back fire blew out my lighter for me!
So, taking a break and having coffee and calming my frayed nerves.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
83 years to get power steering. But its up and functional. Very nice. Thunderbird rack and GM Saganaw power steering box working together. Slight weep at the high pressure hose joint at the box but i was able to cinch it up another 3/4 turn and my hoses didn't pop! Closer and Closer!
83 years to get power steering. But its up and functional. Very nice. Thunderbird rack and GM Saganaw power steering box working together. Slight weep at the high pressure hose joint at the box but i was able to cinch it up another 3/4 turn and my hoses didn't pop! Closer and Closer!
MacEntyre
Shoot on Sight!
2A Bourbon Hound OG
Charter Member
Benefactor
Life Member
Multi-Factor Enabled
After a while, I wanna come visit, pick up the ammo ya gave me, choot some steel and go for a ride in that car!
Might even drank a beer afore it's time to go home.
Might even drank a beer afore it's time to go home.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Hydraulic brake lines are 98% installed. Just need to dog down the main line to the rear end and hook it up to the flexible line on the axle. All the line is copper/nickle.....bends easy without kinks, dosn't rust and really takes a nice flare. I used two flare tools, one on the bench and a smaller dedicated 3/16" tool for the tight spots under the car. Kept the system simple, just running a standard GMC Proportioning Valve (PV2) same as the old Blazer. It'll delay the fronts till the rears are engaged. It also provides a warning light in the event one half the system fails. We shouldn't need an adjustable valve for the rear and won't need residual valves as the Master cylinder is above the wheel cylinders. Too easy. Still waiting for the emergency brake pedal and front cable but should be able to put juice in the system this week.
Hydraulic brake lines are 98% installed. Just need to dog down the main line to the rear end and hook it up to the flexible line on the axle. All the line is copper/nickle.....bends easy without kinks, dosn't rust and really takes a nice flare. I used two flare tools, one on the bench and a smaller dedicated 3/16" tool for the tight spots under the car. Kept the system simple, just running a standard GMC Proportioning Valve (PV2) same as the old Blazer. It'll delay the fronts till the rears are engaged. It also provides a warning light in the event one half the system fails. We shouldn't need an adjustable valve for the rear and won't need residual valves as the Master cylinder is above the wheel cylinders. Too easy. Still waiting for the emergency brake pedal and front cable but should be able to put juice in the system this week.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Took three days off...from everything, including Ol Bessy....separated a rib in my back laying across the Dodges front seat frame working under the dash, then ripped the muscle the next day and then after recovering a bit, sneezed and ripped the muscle again. Needless to say, it ain't easy getting maturer, used to be able to lay about any ol way wrenching in or under a car, no problem-o. No more.
But, feeling well enough today and prior to getting "sheltered in place", (i reckon its coming in NC sooner than late) I was able to pull Bessy's rear wheels, paint the new drums and install the rear emergency brake cables. I'll finish up the hydraulics tomorrow and then maybe get my Tbird cleaned up.
Best news about the CoronaVirus is I can drive that new to me retro TBird unmolested.....The virus scare has all the "maturest" ladies staying in now (as you recall, in the first 24 hours of ownership of The Bird, the only girlies that threw themselves at me and The Bird were three Buick Driving Blue Hairs in the 80 year old and up range......seems they grew up in that era and fondly remember the early Birds this one is styled after....."Id sure like ya to ride me in that there Bird Young Man, Tee Hee Hee!"
Took three days off...from everything, including Ol Bessy....separated a rib in my back laying across the Dodges front seat frame working under the dash, then ripped the muscle the next day and then after recovering a bit, sneezed and ripped the muscle again. Needless to say, it ain't easy getting maturer, used to be able to lay about any ol way wrenching in or under a car, no problem-o. No more.
But, feeling well enough today and prior to getting "sheltered in place", (i reckon its coming in NC sooner than late) I was able to pull Bessy's rear wheels, paint the new drums and install the rear emergency brake cables. I'll finish up the hydraulics tomorrow and then maybe get my Tbird cleaned up.
Best news about the CoronaVirus is I can drive that new to me retro TBird unmolested.....The virus scare has all the "maturest" ladies staying in now (as you recall, in the first 24 hours of ownership of The Bird, the only girlies that threw themselves at me and The Bird were three Buick Driving Blue Hairs in the 80 year old and up range......seems they grew up in that era and fondly remember the early Birds this one is styled after....."Id sure like ya to ride me in that there Bird Young Man, Tee Hee Hee!"
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Ebrake is all in and working. Buttoned up the power steering...the leak was the valve at the pump. Replaced both rubber seals with viton rings. The rubber rings were crimped. Hopefully that takes care of the last of the leaks and I can fill the brake lines tomorrow. I had to make the brass adapter on the left. No combination of fittings would allow more than 3/4 turn on the hose fitting. No strength to seal there either. Made the new brass fitting from an oversize part and lapped it in for fit. After clean up I got 2.5+ turns (3.5 was maximum with no brass insert) in and a good compression fit.
Ebrake is all in and working. Buttoned up the power steering...the leak was the valve at the pump. Replaced both rubber seals with viton rings. The rubber rings were crimped. Hopefully that takes care of the last of the leaks and I can fill the brake lines tomorrow. I had to make the brass adapter on the left. No combination of fittings would allow more than 3/4 turn on the hose fitting. No strength to seal there either. Made the new brass fitting from an oversize part and lapped it in for fit. After clean up I got 2.5+ turns (3.5 was maximum with no brass insert) in and a good compression fit.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Bench blead the master cylinder, 15 minutes off, blead, back on. Opened the front caliper valves and 15 minutes to 4 to 6 inches of air bubble free fluid in the temporarily installed vertical hoses. Another 30 minutes saw similar results on the rear cylinders. So, system has mostly fluid in it now.
Can't pump it yet, as you see in the video, no turbulance in the master cylinder bowls, most like one or both of the brake cylinder rods need adjusting/are too short. Very likely its the rod between the master cylinder and the power booster. I'll check it out later.
But, got the system wetted out and didn't spill any brake fluid on the paint, so, nothing peeling off at this point.
Bench blead the master cylinder, 15 minutes off, blead, back on. Opened the front caliper valves and 15 minutes to 4 to 6 inches of air bubble free fluid in the temporarily installed vertical hoses. Another 30 minutes saw similar results on the rear cylinders. So, system has mostly fluid in it now.
Can't pump it yet, as you see in the video, no turbulance in the master cylinder bowls, most like one or both of the brake cylinder rods need adjusting/are too short. Very likely its the rod between the master cylinder and the power booster. I'll check it out later.
But, got the system wetted out and didn't spill any brake fluid on the paint, so, nothing peeling off at this point.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad.
Master cylinder now working. Kit came with miss matched parts. Deep throat piston and a short plunger push rod bolt. Naturally everything is metric inside. I found one metric bolt, don't know why, usually i throw them far out into the woods when I find them....but, made the bolt into a plunger to replace the short one and if you look closely at the video, you see the turbulence in both chambers and can just see the pistons covering and uncovering the ports. I have about 3/4" pedal free play, should be about 1/2" but I'll get back to that. I went ahead and bled the front calipers, no air in the forward system. Now for a celebratory cigar and back under the car to pull up the rear shoes, bleed the rear and adjust the emergency brake.
All that's left is welding, tune and a drive shaft. Too bad yer locked down in VA. Perhaps I'll get "sick"and you and mom will have to come here to care for me.
Master cylinder now working. Kit came with miss matched parts. Deep throat piston and a short plunger push rod bolt. Naturally everything is metric inside. I found one metric bolt, don't know why, usually i throw them far out into the woods when I find them....but, made the bolt into a plunger to replace the short one and if you look closely at the video, you see the turbulence in both chambers and can just see the pistons covering and uncovering the ports. I have about 3/4" pedal free play, should be about 1/2" but I'll get back to that. I went ahead and bled the front calipers, no air in the forward system. Now for a celebratory cigar and back under the car to pull up the rear shoes, bleed the rear and adjust the emergency brake.
All that's left is welding, tune and a drive shaft. Too bad yer locked down in VA. Perhaps I'll get "sick"and you and mom will have to come here to care for me.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Good progress on the stop portions of the job today.
Got the Lokar Emergency brake cables in place and finally adjusted. Not contained in the instructions is the 3 handed operation necessary to install and adjust: simultaneously hold the clamping block, pull all of the tension out of the rear most cables and then pull harder than you think you need to to lightly compress the return springs, finally, tighten down the cable anchor screws without letting go of the clamping block or rear cables. Well, got it done with two hands but it took all of yesterday and most of this morning. I don't know how, but I do hope and pray it never ever go's out of adjustment. Nice system but a real bastard to get installed and working.
Drivers side rear break drum was dragging, so I fitted the shoes to each drum and tapered the heal and toe of the shoes. It helped but finally figured out that Drivers side rear drum was binding when bolted down......its got a warped mounting plate For now its shimmed out 1/16" to allow for all the adjustments that had to be done before finalizing the emergency brakes but, it will have to be replaced with an new drum.
Chased down two leaks in the breaking system. The main line to the rear was leaking at the master cylinder. This was a good American steel fitting, 1/4 turn more stopped the weeping. As for the other leak, down at the driver front caliper, I neatly solved that problem. Simply twisted the fancy china chrome banjo bolt off in the hole and proceeded to replace it with an American made banjo bolt.
Awaiting the new power steering pump, finally found the leak on it, next to the hi pressure valve is a nice triangular shaped dent filled with solder.......I'll get it swapped out when the pump comes in this week and see if we can get our money back on the current pump. Resevour should never have been soldered.
I have to get BigTen some measurements on the drive shaft, he may have one that'll work. If not, we'll order out of Drive Line Specialists in TX. About the same price as local but I don't have to make a one+ hour run out and then back again to get it done, it'd just come in the mail 4 days after a 5 minute phone call.
Good progress on the stop portions of the job today.
Got the Lokar Emergency brake cables in place and finally adjusted. Not contained in the instructions is the 3 handed operation necessary to install and adjust: simultaneously hold the clamping block, pull all of the tension out of the rear most cables and then pull harder than you think you need to to lightly compress the return springs, finally, tighten down the cable anchor screws without letting go of the clamping block or rear cables. Well, got it done with two hands but it took all of yesterday and most of this morning. I don't know how, but I do hope and pray it never ever go's out of adjustment. Nice system but a real bastard to get installed and working.
Drivers side rear break drum was dragging, so I fitted the shoes to each drum and tapered the heal and toe of the shoes. It helped but finally figured out that Drivers side rear drum was binding when bolted down......its got a warped mounting plate For now its shimmed out 1/16" to allow for all the adjustments that had to be done before finalizing the emergency brakes but, it will have to be replaced with an new drum.
Chased down two leaks in the breaking system. The main line to the rear was leaking at the master cylinder. This was a good American steel fitting, 1/4 turn more stopped the weeping. As for the other leak, down at the driver front caliper, I neatly solved that problem. Simply twisted the fancy china chrome banjo bolt off in the hole and proceeded to replace it with an American made banjo bolt.
Awaiting the new power steering pump, finally found the leak on it, next to the hi pressure valve is a nice triangular shaped dent filled with solder.......I'll get it swapped out when the pump comes in this week and see if we can get our money back on the current pump. Resevour should never have been soldered.
I have to get BigTen some measurements on the drive shaft, he may have one that'll work. If not, we'll order out of Drive Line Specialists in TX. About the same price as local but I don't have to make a one+ hour run out and then back again to get it done, it'd just come in the mail 4 days after a 5 minute phone call.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Quick walk around Ol Bessy now that she's clean. Got her seat/trunk divider made up and installed. Put the rear seat back on, its the last surviving bit of upholstery your Dad made for her all those years ago. It'll serve as the pattern and theme for the new threads this winter. The rear seat bottom cover is a leftover from the late 80s when I was going to put in new seat covers, way back when Kanter Automotive and even JC Whitney still had interior parts for this car. We'll never afford NOS or Reproduction door sills, but like the aluminum grill surround I made up, aluminum angle serves fine and takes a nice polish. I'll get the lower door seals in place tomorrow or next week. Got her a trunk tool box, rooted through my tools and mostly filled it with AeroSpace grade pieces left over from years of munitions work. The best for your Gal. She has a full set of tools to keep her tuned anywhere she go's. Soon......
Quick walk around Ol Bessy now that she's clean. Got her seat/trunk divider made up and installed. Put the rear seat back on, its the last surviving bit of upholstery your Dad made for her all those years ago. It'll serve as the pattern and theme for the new threads this winter. The rear seat bottom cover is a leftover from the late 80s when I was going to put in new seat covers, way back when Kanter Automotive and even JC Whitney still had interior parts for this car. We'll never afford NOS or Reproduction door sills, but like the aluminum grill surround I made up, aluminum angle serves fine and takes a nice polish. I'll get the lower door seals in place tomorrow or next week. Got her a trunk tool box, rooted through my tools and mostly filled it with AeroSpace grade pieces left over from years of munitions work. The best for your Gal. She has a full set of tools to keep her tuned anywhere she go's. Soon......
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Dad,
Uncle Vicks 1940 Battle Throphy is the longest. Looks like Ol Bessy can carry mine and yours on the hunt this winter.
Trunk should hold at least 2 dead deer and the rifles.
Uncle Vicks 1940 Battle Throphy is the longest. Looks like Ol Bessy can carry mine and yours on the hunt this winter.
Trunk should hold at least 2 dead deer and the rifles.
OP
Sharps40
Price, it's all about the price
Ok. Driveshaft inbound. $400 delivered. 3.5 in steel, Spicer joints. 2 weeks or less.
Front regal/Eldorado brake hoses on. No leaks yet but radiator hose clamps failed and coolant is dripping.
Measured the trans output angle at 3 to 4 degrees down. Rear pinion was 4 degrees down. So I started installing the pinion shims bigten brought. Looks like 6 degree shims will get me where I need to be along with some windup in the soft springs. Just need 2 bolts for the spring pack to finish the job. Get em sat after a morning turkey hunt.
Finally linked the phone to the car. That took 83 years. But made 2 calls. Crystal clear on both ends.
All in all a good day.
Front regal/Eldorado brake hoses on. No leaks yet but radiator hose clamps failed and coolant is dripping.
Measured the trans output angle at 3 to 4 degrees down. Rear pinion was 4 degrees down. So I started installing the pinion shims bigten brought. Looks like 6 degree shims will get me where I need to be along with some windup in the soft springs. Just need 2 bolts for the spring pack to finish the job. Get em sat after a morning turkey hunt.
Finally linked the phone to the car. That took 83 years. But made 2 calls. Crystal clear on both ends.
All in all a good day.