2000 Ford E250 5.4 Triton lean bank 1&2

BlackGun

BlackGun

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Code is P0107. Lean on bank 1&2. Fuel pump and filter changed 6 years ago. Could this be a vacuum hose issue? Van is running with no stalls but shutters some at start and at idle is inconsistant.
 
Changed 6 years ago? Maybe you got all the good outta them. I had a 97 that was doing that and it was a stuck egr valve
 
heavydoc said:
Changed 6 years ago? Maybe you got all the good outta them. I had a 97 that was doing that and it was a stuck egr valve
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That could be the problem. A bad erg valve does cause rough idling. Isn’t an erg part of the exhaust?

Edit: Is the erg under the hood or in the cab dog house cover?
 
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It is part of the exhaust and the air system. It takes a small amount of exhaust gas and runs it back through the intake. Mine was on the driver side towards the top in the middle
 
BlackGun said:
Code is P0107. Lean on bank 1&2. Fuel pump and filter changed 6 years ago. Could this be a vacuum hose issue? Van is running with no stalls but shutters some at start and at idle is inconsistant.
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Could be a lot of things. Could also be an exhaust leak or bad sensor but I'm sure you'd hear that. Exhaust leaks always throw a lean code.

Bad idle? Always check and clean the iac and look for vacuum leaks. You could delete your egr and see if it helps anything. The egr could be stuck open.

Egr is the devil.
 
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BlackGun said:
That could be the problem. A bad erg valve does cause rough idling. Isn’t an erg part of the exhaust?

Edit: Is the erg under the hood or in the cab dog house cover?
Click to expand...
The egr is not supposed to be open at idle and could be messed up and stuck wide open all the time. Working on things with engines in the dog house is a pain, good luck.
 
My V-10 Triton had a messed up EGR valve and it surged at idle, would stall out, and ran like crap. Replaced the part and the hose….problem solved.


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There's a few things that cause bank 1/2 lean codes on the 4.6/5.4 and V10 engines.

EGR Valve, PCV valve hose, or intake gaskets.

If the vehicle runs fine at WOT, while driving down the road, my money is on one of the first two.

If it falls on its face at WOT, fuel pump will be the problem.
 
Had great luck again. Brake pads out. Van needed alignment after new tires. Took it to mechanic for everything. Got it back today. Isle still off. They said it had a hose leak but I think it needs revisiting.

Had three visits to get truck brakes fixed again on the diesel. I’m around $7500 in these truck brakes over 15 years. Been without both vehicles for work 5 weeks. Never been so far behind in work.
 
What kind of trucks are these. Hydraulic or air brake. Either way neither are very difficult. I'll help you any way I can with info, or help if I am in the area.
 
I had a similar issue with a 4.6 liter (same codes). Mine was a cracked plastic intake manifold. Sprayed a generous amount of brake parts cleaner at the back of the engine and got it to stumble.
 
heavydoc said:
What kind of trucks are these. Hydraulic or air brake. Either way neither are very difficult. I'll help you any way I can with info, or help if I am in the area.
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Truck brakes are on a Dodge D250 Cummins 5.9L diesel, 1991. Its been to 2 dealerships many times and a multitude of mechanics. Most are loss of pedal which would go to floor. Pobably 25 visits over 15 years. I have a pedal again but who lnows for how long. Fourth booster. Got a new booster couple weeks ago and had pedal that wouldn’t press down and they say they put another one on. Who knows but the last three years I’ve been using a very honest and knowledgable guy but he was out with covid for weeks and he is the diagnosis mechanic/owner. Still have a brake and anti brake light on. Those lights haven’t went off since the first issue 15 years ago. Truck has been great except for brake issues.
 
Glade8r said:
I had a similar issue with a 4.6 liter (same codes). Mine was a cracked plastic intake manifold. Sprayed a generous amount of brake parts cleaner at the back of the engine and got it to stumble.
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Drove the van home from mechanics yesterday and it idled funny but this morning it did fine for 50 miles.
 
25 times? Find another mechanic, or learn it yourself. There's not much to the brakes on a 91 d250. If the pedal sinks with the engine off, it's hydraulic. So hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, not sure if it has a proportioning valve or not. Check rear drum adjustment, the "self adjusters" don't usually work. Brake fluid attracts water (hydroscopic) and rusts the hell out of everything internally, periodically flush it out. If they keep having repeat part failure (4th booster), they are using junk parts.
 
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