2008 Chrysler Town and Country

DCGallim

DCGallim

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Wont start, battery is good, all fuses and realys good. I put the key in the ignition and the bell rings and the mileage comes on but when you turn the key nothing happens, dash doesn’t light up, starter doesn’t kick on. It doesn’t have a standard key just a stupid fob thing. Not sure if it’s the ignition switch, the fob itself or the thing that reads the fob. I’ve tried both fobs and neither works so I don’t believe they’re the culprits. I know it’s weird a mopar with electrical issues.
 
Neutral safety switch?
 
Sounds like the way the starter did on my truck. Tap the solenoid with a hammer and see if it will start.
 
See if the small wire on the starter will light up a test light while key is in the start position.
If it lights up, starter replacement. If not, look at the electrical part of ignition switch
 
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Has it recently lost all power (like having the battery replaced)? My 2003 did this once and the problem was the computer needed to be retaught to recognize the rfid in the fob.
 
It's not a stater issue....dont waste your time with that...Could be a TIPM (totally integrated power module) problem...some of this stuff can be very difficult to guess at online though...wish you were closer. check your battery terminal connections....matter of fact, take them off the battery and clean them...Chryslers are very picky about voltage. if that doesn't fix it and it will crank when jump started, it probably needs a battery. after its running i'd have the battery load tested at a shop
 
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Mike Overlay said:
See if the small wire on the starter will light up a test light while key is in the start position.
If it lights up, starter replacement. If not, look at the electrical part of ignition switch
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I’ll try it tomorrow. The only thing that makes me think that isn’t it is I can’t even get the radio to come on when I turn the key to acc. Its like the switch doesn’t recognize the key is there when I turn it.
 
Gspec said:
It's not a stater issue....dont waste your time with that...Could be a TIPM (totally integrated power module) problem...some of this stuff can be very difficult to guess at online though...wish you were closer. check your battery terminal connections....matter of fact, take them off the battery and clean them...Chryslers are very picky about voltage. if that doesn't fix it and it will crank when jump started, it probably needs a battery. after its running i'd have the battery load tested at a shop
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Check clean and try to jump off was the first thing I did. Battery is good
 
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DCGallim said:
Check clean and try to jump off was the first thing I did. Battery is good
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another possibility is the battery having a bad cell...if so even jump starting might not work.told you the chryslers are picky about voltage. One way to know for sure would be to remove your battery completely and install the other cars battery if the terminals will allow it. Or disconnect your battery terminals and hook the jumpers straight to them.
 
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Will it turn over if parking brake on and transmission in neutral?
 
DCGallim said:
The more I look into it it seems to be the WIN module.
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They had some trouble with those years back but the recall campaign might be over. Could always call the dealer with your Vin and see if it's a candidate or check to see if it's been done
 
I once had a similar problem on a Jeep pickup, but even worse, it was intermittent. Took me a couple of months to find the problem. One night it did I it and I flung open the hood and started wiggling the battery connections. One of the posts turned a little with the clamp. Huh? Turned out that the battery terminal was broken INTERNALLY from the plate. Couldn't see it from the outside. Sometimes it would make contact and run fine; sometimes zip, zero, nada. Not a peep out of anything when it didn't work. Battery tested good when tested - until you turned the clamp. My money is on the battery.
 
Gspec said:
They had some trouble with those years back but the recall campaign might be over. Could always call the dealer with your Vin and see if it's a candidate or check to see if it's been done
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Wonder if they’ll just give me the part and I do the work. Really don’t feel like having it towed.
 
Before everyone pulls the trigger on a module let's check the basics. Check battery voltage. Check to see if starter is getting the start signal on the solenoid wire. Then let's expand to other things. The most common issues are the basic ones. Sure modules go bad, but let's make sure it isn't as simple as a starter motor before we condemn the WIN module or the TIPM. Sucks to replace those only to find out it was a loose battery terminal or a faulty starter motor all along.
 
Coltdefender1911 said:
Before everyone pulls the trigger on a module let's check the basics. Check battery voltage. Check to see if starter is getting the start signal on the solenoid wire. Then let's expand to other things. The most common issues are the basic ones. Sure modules go bad, but let's make sure it isn't as simple as a starter motor before we condemn the WIN module or the TIPM. Sucks to replace those only to find out it was a loose battery terminal or a faulty starter motor all along.
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Bad starter's don't cause dead instrument clusters.
 
Coltdefender1911 said:
Low voltage will. High resistance in a ground circuit will.
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??????????? Low voltage on the starter side of the circuit? Negative.

Ground's are always a possibility, but with partial power up of the cluster and the KII chime operating, it's doubtful.
 
Gspec said:
??????????? Low voltage on the starter side of the circuit? Negative.

Ground's are always a possibility, but with partial power up of the cluster and the KII chime operating, it's doubtful.
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Low voltage period. Not just on the starter side of the circuit. And yes. Low voltage will cause all kinda of crazy. Especially on a Chrysler. And I said high resistance in the ground circuit. Not quite the same as a bad ground.
 
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Will the fuel pump run to pressurize the rails?
 
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