22 LR past 100 yards

KnotRight

KnotRight

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In one of the groups on FaceBook they is a thread about shooting a 22 LR at longer ranges.

At my range we have 100 yard and 100 meter range. On the long range, the first set of steel targets is 300 yards. You can setup paper targets no closer than 200 yards.

My 2 questions is what do you feel is a max "reasonable" range for a non-precsion rifle and what ammo would you use without breaking the bank?

I am shooting a Savage Mark II FV with a scope. The ammo that I have is just off the self ammo that you would find in BPS.
 
Love that rifle. Have you installed a 20moa scope base? If not I think you’ll likely run out of elevation adjustment in the scope before you get to 200. CCI-SV is my choice of moderately priced ammo.
 
CCI SV works for some. A step up that won't break the bank is SK Std+ or Wolf Match (same thing). You can go crazy from there.
The CMP is selling Eley ammo that is pretty good too, but you have to buy it by the case. They don't say which of their retail loadings it is, if any, but it works well for the price.
 
Like the others, I shoot my FV-SR out to 200yd with CCI SV. I use a 20MOA base, Mueller APT scope, and usually shooting steel which is incredibly fun considering the long delay before you hear "PING". Hitting my 6" steel at 200yd is pushing it for me (and the gun/ammo?).

If you want to squeak out some extra accuracy, try weight sorting your CCI SV ammo.
 
CCI-SV is the cheapest thing I can get to be consistent on steel at 200 with the FVSR. And reasonably good at 300. I would use Eley if I wanted to step up. It's what my daughter uses for competition. Her CZ loves it.
 
Still paying around shooting past 100 yards (300 yards). The next question that I have is how do you DOPE your scope? Or should I say how do you plug the data into a ballstic calcutor if you do not know the BC of the bullet?
 
Some folks may not agree but for me .22 is so finicky that my zero from last time is more of a starting point. It could be the cheaper scope. But wind, humidity, varying velocities on .22, etc and I seem to have to make minor tweaks almost every time I go out if I'm shooting 200 yards. Something to keep in mind.
 
I’m shooting a CZ 455 Varmint Tactical in a manners stock with a 24 inch barrel and a 10x50x60 mm Sightron scope. 200-300 yard shots are a foregone conclusion.
 
KnotRight said:
Still paying around shooting past 100 yards (300 yards). The next question that I have is how do you DOPE your scope? Or should I say how do you plug the data into a ballstic calcutor if you do not know the BC of the bullet?
Click to expand...
Here is my door sheet for my FV-SR. The gray lines are confirmed, the rest were filled in using a ballistic calculator based upon the confirmed data.

Disregard the mil holdover column, I messed up those calcs.
DF436A81-4557-49F2-B001-CD5C1CA6C67A.jpeg
 
I am shooting a CZ455 Tacticool with a Vortex Diamondback Tactical on a 25 MOA base and can hit the 12X20 plate at 400 yards consistently on the reticle with standard velocity ammo. Judging from my observations at .22 PRS matches, your FVSR should be able to do the same.

I chrono my ammo using a Magnetospeed, then plug the numbers into Strelok and Shooters Calculator. I then test those numbers on the range and note any variances in actual performance. So far, my numbers on Strelok have been pretty close to actual performance.

For a cheap standard velocity round that works really well in some rifles, check out Geco Bolt Action Optimized or Geco Semi Auto (it runs about 10-15 fps faster MV). Just be aware that Geco has a much thicker lube than most bulk ammo and some folks don't like that. I also use the Eley CMP Standard as a budget match round, as it has consistently shown a single digit SD everytime I have run it across the chrono - usually a 6 - 8 SD.
 
As the rifle sits right now, I am hitting a golf ball 80% of the times at 100 yards and any type ammo that is on sale. The scope that came on the gun is a cheap Simmons 4x12x44 SF 44 Mag mounted with out a rail. I have a EWG 20 MOA rail coming this week. After reading some of the above post, what distance would you Zero your scope?
 
KnotRight said:
As the rifle sits right now, I am hitting a golf ball 80% of the times at 100 yards and any type ammo that is on sale. The scope that came on the gun is a cheap Simmons 4x12x44 SF 44 Mag mounted with out a rail. I have a EWG 20 MOA rail coming this week. After reading some of the above post, what distance would you Zero your scope?
Click to expand...

I have mine zeroed at 50 yards.
 
KnotRight said:
As the rifle sits right now, I am hitting a golf ball 80% of the times at 100 yards and any type ammo that is on sale. The scope that came on the gun is a cheap Simmons 4x12x44 SF 44 Mag mounted with out a rail. I have a EWG 20 MOA rail coming this week. After reading some of the above post, what distance would you Zero your scope?
Click to expand...

50 but that’s me. And probably most common. Some 25 some 100.

if you know you will be shooting a particular distance most of the time, zero for that.

If you know you want to hold instead of dial and want to shoot 50-200, _your_ best zero might be at 140 so your reticle has hashes over those ranges without dialing.

If your scope has a resettable zero hard stop, then you will need to zero at the short end of the ranges you care about.

The important thing is to know your dope for all the ranges you care about, and get there and back to zero reliably.

Think about it this way - if you are dialing the scope instead of holding, you are zeroed at every range you have good data for. No particular range is really special unless you scope has a settable zero feature.
 
KnotRight said:
Still paying around shooting past 100 yards (300 yards). The next question that I have is how do you DOPE your scope? Or should I say how do you plug the data into a ballstic calcutor if you do not know the BC of the bullet?
Click to expand...

JBM Ballistics has the BC for Eley and Lapua/SK/Wolf rimfire projectiles:

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj_simp-5.1.cgi

At best any number you get from a ballistic calculator is a starting point. Rimfire ballistics are NOT centerfire ballistics. Several variables you can minimize or totally ignore for centerfire ballistics have a significant impact on rimfire; specifically shooting into the wind and humidity. A "small" 20fps velocity difference will change your POI by 3" at 250yds. When you are buying higher end ammo (Tennex, Midas Plus, and Center-X) you are paying for the decreased velocity variance, which can easily by 30fps to 50fps with club grade or basic target ammo.

These are my 100yd out to 300yd targets. The largest is 12" x 9" and the smallest is 2.5" x 1.75" [height x width]
Rimfire Targets sizes.jpg
 
We shoot 22LR to 400 yards at Woody's all the time. My ruger precision rimfire is zeroed at 100 and it's about 22 mils of elevation. I mainly use cci sv.

I would say on a calm day you can ping the steel at 300 with consistency, but 400 is more like pulling the trigger and relying on a good bit of luck. The 1.5 second flight time is also fun. :)
 
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