Aluminum Case

tws3b2

tws3b2

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New to reloading. Right now I'm only loading 38spl. I will probably load 9mm later but I have no plans to load anything else. I only load as a pass time in the upcoming cold/wet winter months. And, to have a back up the next time the world goes stupid.
I use a Lee precision loading kit and have no plans to move up to a press. But, who knows, that could change. Just to wait and see.
I have a bag of 38 cases that I have saved from range trips. I found some aluminum cases from rounds I bought back when ammo was hard to find and that was all on the shelf. I remember reading " somewhere" that brass could be reloaded 7 or more times and aluminum 4 or 5. So, I loaded a few. Then got to thinking maybe I should check that out first. Only loaded 10 or so and went back to brass. I've check around and found where some say yes, some no and others maybe. Some said that the N R on the end of the case means Not Reloadable. Funny I never noticed the N R before.
So, here I am asking another dumb question. Does anyone load any aluminum? Or, do I just throw them in the "just in case junk box" or trash.
Thanks
 
Sleipnir said:
Why bother? Brass is easy to find and works correctly.
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^^^ This.

For any caliber where brass is readily available, I don't see the need to try loading aluminum or steel cases. If it were an oddball caliber where brass isn't available, then it might be worth a try.

Out of curiosity, I have sized a few aluminum cases and seated bullets in them, just to see if there was enough neck tension to hold the bullet. There was. I've heard of some people that reload aluminum cases when they know they can't retrieve their spent brass.
 
Frack N Cylons said:
I just noticed this. Were they Boxer primed?
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This is a Blazer aluminum case. I am new at reloading and not real familiar with boxer primed or Berdan. I don't generally use aluminum case rounds. As a matter of fact I've only used them once when I could find nothing else.They primed like brass, no problem.
20231023_150030.jpg
 
tws3b2 said:
This is a Blazer aluminum case. I am new at reloading and not real familiar with boxer primed or Berdan. I don't generally use aluminum case rounds. As a matter of fact I've only used them once when I could find nothing else.They primed like brass, no problem.
View attachment 689074
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That's not a normal boxer primer pocket. It's not Berdan either - It's something else. I would trash those for sure.
 
I’d like to see the inside of the primer from that case.
Avoid reloading AL and steel, brass is the far superior material for the application.
 
Another question if I can.
I weigh my rounds after loading.
Just wondering how much variance in each can I or should I expect in each round?
I load my powder at 3.9 and don't accept anything more or less. I've noticed that Hornady 158gr can weigh in at anywhere between 157.5gr or so to 158.5gr or so. I don't weigh brass or primers. But, I notice that a finished round can be as much as 1gr. Or more over or under the next. I calibrate my scales often and check with known weight. The powder dipper I use is very small and I can pretty much tell if I have over or under the correct amount just by looking.
So, my question is how much difference can be expected from one round to the next finished rounds.
 
tws3b2 said:
Another question if I can.
I weigh my rounds after loading.
Just wondering how much variance in each can I or should I expect in each round?
I load my powder at 3.9 and don't accept anything more or less. I've noticed that Hornady 158gr can weigh in at anywhere between 157.5gr or so to 158.5gr or so. I don't weigh brass or primers. But, I notice that a finished round can be as much as 1gr. Or more over or under the next. I calibrate my scales often and check with known weight. The powder dipper I use is very small and I can pretty much tell if I have over or under the correct amount just by looking.
So, my question is how much difference can be expected from one round to the next finished rounds.
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The variation in weight isn't likely just the powder. It's more likely difference in power + brass+ projectile.

Are you using mixed headstamp brass?

Are you loading seconds, pulled bullets, coated lead, lead cast from a variety of sources...
 
As has been over above I am sure...just dont mess with it. Brass is cheap, and often free for picking up. Just stick to what works well, it isnt worth saving fractions of a cent.
 
tws3b2 said:
Another question if I can.
I weigh my rounds after loading.
Just wondering how much variance in each can I or should I expect in each round?
I load my powder at 3.9 and don't accept anything more or less. I've noticed that Hornady 158gr can weigh in at anywhere between 157.5gr or so to 158.5gr or so. I don't weigh brass or primers. But, I notice that a finished round can be as much as 1gr. Or more over or under the next. I calibrate my scales often and check with known weight. The powder dipper I use is very small and I can pretty much tell if I have over or under the correct amount just by looking.
So, my question is how much difference can be expected from one round to the next finished rounds.
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Those weights written on the brass is what the brass weighs. You can see the difference left to right. That entire block (45 rds), shot less than 20 fps ES and the columns shot single digit within the column. This is for a precision extreme range rifle. I doubt you see any difference in your handgun loads performance weighing them.

IMG_1672.jpeg
 
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Aluminum oxidizes rapidly forming aluminum oxide on its surface. Aluminum oxide has a very high Mohs hardness and will likely wear out reloading tools much sooner.

Also a reason not to fire it in your gun.
 
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tws3b2 said:
Another question if I can.
I weigh my rounds after loading.
Just wondering how much variance in each can I or should I expect in each round?
I load my powder at 3.9 and don't accept anything more or less. I've noticed that Hornady 158gr can weigh in at anywhere between 157.5gr or so to 158.5gr or so. I don't weigh brass or primers. But, I notice that a finished round can be as much as 1gr. Or more over or under the next. I calibrate my scales often and check with known weight. The powder dipper I use is very small and I can pretty much tell if I have over or under the correct amount just by looking.
So, my question is how much difference can be expected from one round to the next finished rounds.
Click to expand...

Like Jimbob said, you probably won’t see a difference in a handgun round. Get the charge weight correct and call it a day, assuming your seating depth, crimp, etc is consistent.

Do you have any reloading manuals? I hate to sound like a Fudd but it is a great idea to get a few and read them in detail. I’ve always liked Lyman manuals.
 
Frack N Cylons said:
Like Jimbob said, you probably won’t see a difference in a handgun round. Get the charge weight correct and call it a day, assuming your seating depth, crimp, etc is consistent.

Do you have any reloading manuals? I hate to sound like a Fudd but it is a great idea to get a few and read them in detail. I’ve always liked Lyman manuals.
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Heck, I just answered my own question. I just weighed a box of pmc and Blazer new rounds. They varied as much as mine. Should have done that first I guess.
As far as the Lyman manual.
I have a couple data sheets that I've compared to powder makers websites. I'm not interested in any hot, +p or magnum loads or any other caliber. Just 1 or 2 mild loads for 38spl and 9mm bullets I plan to use. No need for another manual.
 
With pistol rounds, especially 9mm, weighing loaded rounds won't tell you much. Sometimes, the difference in weight of the cases, from max to min, may vary more than the powder charge.
 
Toprudder said:
With pistol rounds, especially 9mm, weighing loaded rounds won't tell you much. Sometimes, the difference in weight of the cases, from max to min, may vary more than the powder charge.
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Agreed. Shortcuts and assumptions when reloading result in a bad day at the range.
 
Use the brass. Ditch the aluminum and steel cases. Do not worry about the weight of the assembled round.
 
I toss the steel at scrap metal container at county recycling yard and the aluminum into an aluminum can.
 
I would not reload steel cases, just my opinion although others have had some luck with them. I have reloaded aluminum cases. They're cheap from the brass places. When I have used them, I only reload them once. Good for "lost brass" matches. I've done 9mm and .38 Special, both with pretty light loads. YMMV.
 
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