AR build questions and opinions.

Sp00ks

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I know this has been discussed at length all over the place. However; I think the content on the new forum is worth the discussion. Not to mention it will help me tremendously and from a trusted source. I'm going to try and keep this short but I get long winded and will likely fail at that.

Lead up: I have a Barnes Precision mid length, 16" SS wylde chamber 1:8. I can't say enough about this rifle. It shoots so much better than I do. So this is the rifle I know.

I want to build one from scratch for no other reason than to say I built a rifle and well, then I'll have another rifle... Budget build and I'm not in a big hurry but would consider spending more on quality components if deemed reasonably prudent. I thought I wanted to build a pistol. I shot one yesterday and while it was cool, I no longer think I want one. I would love an SBR but I don't want to go through that process.

I am of the general opinion that a $500 rifle and a $1500 rifle are both going to be combat accurate but the better rifle should start to shine long range. I have nowhere to shoot past 100 yds and I have other systems on hand for distances longer than that.

So I will start shortly by buying a blank lower, likely an Anderson. My LGS has them for $80 which seems high to me but if I order one, FFL fee, Shipping, etc. It's going to come in close. If any of our sponsors out there have some at a decent price, speak up. I would rather give you my money, next would be to go to the LGS and at least keep it local. Sponsors a reasonable distance from South Raleigh, I don't mind a small road trip but I'm not going to drive to Charlotte, and it would give me the opportunity to meet some of you salty Bastards! :) Or a member that has one they want to get rid of for a reasonable price.

Next: Where would you spend your money on an AR build? Where do you spend the most money and where do you cut short to save $$?

My thinking is spend the money on barrel and bolt carrier, in that order. While I'm not a trigger Ho, I would like a smooth trigger with a clean break. I don't need a $250 trigger.

One more thought: I could upgrade some things on my Barnes, like trigger group and/or bolt carrier and use those parts for the new build. However; I have no issues with the stock Barnes trigger or bolt.

Summary:
Budget AR build, which components are worth spending more money on? From experience, thoughts on barrels, bolt carriers and trigger groups. Sourcing parts locally when it makes sense.

Go!
 
Lucky13bullets is a site sponsor and will treat you right. Think about buying everything you can from Don. His shop is in Kernersville.

I went thru this process about three months ago and spent a little extra money on the areas you mentioned...barrel and bolt carrier. The rest, IMO, is bling if you're only punching paper or ringing steel.

Another thing to consider is building your rifle on an 80% lower. I think there is a lot of benefit to owning something that can't be traced. Polymer80 makes one that is well-priced, robust, and extremely easy to machine with just a drill press.
 
trcubed;n34432 said:
Lucky13bullets is a site sponsor and will treat you right. Think about buying everything you can from Don. His shop is in Kernersville.

Another thing to consider is building your rifle on an 80% lower. I think there is a lot of benefit to owning something that can't be traced. Polymer80 makes one that is well-priced, robust, and extremely easy to machine with just a drill press.

While the prospect of a potential pants down man hug is enticing... I surely won't save any money with an hour and half drive at 14.5 mpg. I have been wanting to take a ride up there so there is definitely potential for a visit. I'm also a reloader and would likely leave there with only lint left in my pocket.... A good and bad thing.

I would love to do an 80% lower and agree with the benefit. However, I don't have a lot of confidence in my little drill press. My son is actually a machinist but I don't want him milling a receiver at work. I'm not sure the shop owner would support that. If one of our members here would be willing to help me, I would definitely consider this route.

I'll do some research on the 80% lower. 80% lower as my first build? Why the heck not... jump in with both feet....
 
Not sure where you're located, but if you decide on the Polymer80 and aren't too far from the east side of Wake County, I'd be happy to set you up on my drill press and 3 axis vise. I've done a couple of them and it's an extremely easy process. The last one took only 45 minutes or so, and most of that was spent arguing with my OCD.
 
Since you have an idea where you should splurge on quality parts, and are self-admittedly NOT a trigger ho, ALG's Adv Combat Trigger is a very affordable, quality option.
Is it a high quality competition trigger...no. Would you want it in a precision rifle...no. But, it is a smooth, crisp, improved 5.5lb mil spec that does not feel that heavy. I have one in a 5.56 SBR and an AR9 and I like them very much for my 'combat accurate' rifles.
 
trcubed;n34463 said:
Not sure where you're located, but if you decide on the Polymer80 and aren't too far from the east side of Wake County, I'd be happy to set you up on my drill press and 3 axis vise. I've done a couple of them and it's an extremely easy process. The last one took only 45 minutes or so, and most of that was spent arguing with my OCD.

That is very tempting and I'm close. South of you.

I presume from the name, they are a polymer material. I assume since your suggesting it, you haven't had any issues with it being polymer? I also like the weight reduction aspects albeit it can't be a lot of weight.
 
Yes, they are a reinforced Nylon. They had some issues around the rear take-down pin when they first came out, but those has been resolved. I'm very pleased with mine. My son built one for a 300BO and he's tickled, as well.

And you're right. Since an aluminum lower weighs next to nothing, it's hard to save weight there.
 
The barrel is a good place to put extra money.
But ...

the barrel is a waste of money if you don't buy a quality hand guard and barrel nut. It that free float is not stiff enough to free float, then even a match barrel's accuracy will suffer.

The gas block is another thing to look at. If I ever build another long range gun the gas block will be exposed.

A good trigger is a must. If you dont want a Geissele (because of the cost) look at ALG.

ALG has good lower parts kits too.
 
If I may make a suggestion. Build light.

Not uber expensive alloy parts, just not fat. A LW or pencil profile barrel, a reasonable handguard (suggest ALG not the lightest but light, robust and affordable), and a no frills buttstock.

I have a heavy 18", a 16" "M4" profile with quad rail, and built my wife a no frills carbine around a 14.5 LW BCM barrel. Just over 6lbs empty, it's not as accurate as the others, but plenty good for GP use, and just a pleasure to shoot and carry. If she's not going I take it.

Barrel and trigger are where to focus funds.
 
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Beef15;n35309 said:
If I may make a suggestion. Build light.

Not uber expensive alloy parts, just not fat. A LW or pencil profile barrel, a reasonable handguard (suggest ALG not the lightest but light, robust and affordable), and a no frills buttstock.

I have a heavy 18", a 16" "M4" profile with quad rail, and built my wife a no frills carbine around a 14.5 LW BCM barrel. Just over 6lbs empty, it's not as accurate as the others, but plenty good for GP use, and just a pleasure to shoot and carry. If she's not going I take it.

Barrel and trigger are where to focus funds.

Yes, a lighter build is absolutely on my mind. I love my Barnes but it is a heavy rifle. Light weight hand guard, minimalistic stock.
 
A lightweight or pencil barrel's accuracy will start to suffer, and noticeably so when the barrel heats up and/or the rate of fire increases. And the POI shift with a Suppressor on a pencil barrel is generally much increased over a heavier contour barrel (if you ever go that route). I'm not saying lightweight barrels don't have their uses, just that they have pros and cons like anything else and you should know what you're getting into.

I'd put my money into the trigger, the barrel, the rail, and the optic.
 
Decent barrel, good BCG, CMC trigger, a grip you find comfortable, better controls(strike industries is affordable)...
 
If it doesn't have a good barrel, all that other crap you hang on it is useless.
ive built a couple billets and they don't really shoot much better than any of my forged builds. They do however make a fair trigger good, and a good trigger great.
Great barrel, good trigger, well made BCG, good free float handguard and you should be golden, provided you put a piece of glass on it that is worthy of your investment.
 
Sp00ks said:
trcubed;n34432 said:
Lucky13bullets is a site sponsor and will treat you right. Think about buying everything you can from Don. His shop is in Kernersville.

Another thing to consider is building your rifle on an 80% lower. I think there is a lot of benefit to owning something that can't be traced. Polymer80 makes one that is well-priced, robust, and extremely easy to machine with just a drill press.

While the prospect of a potential pants down man hug is enticing... I surely won't save any money with an hour and half drive at 14.5 mpg. I have been wanting to take a ride up there so there is definitely potential for a visit. I'm also a reloader and would likely leave there with only lint left in my pocket.... A good and bad thing.

I would love to do an 80% lower and agree with the benefit. However, I don't have a lot of confidence in my little drill press. My son is actually a machinist but I don't want him milling a receiver at work. I'm not sure the shop owner would support that. If one of our members here would be willing to help me, I would definitely consider this route.

I'll do some research on the 80% lower. 80% lower as my first build? Why the heck not... jump in with both feet....
I have a drill press and jug to do the 80 if you want to some by the house and use it.
 
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