AR10 failure to go into battery and doubling

Tim

Tim

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Twice today my AR10 doubled, so I'm looking for some guidance.

- Factory FGMM and PPU ammo
- Diamond Back receivers and bolt
- 18" Ballistic Advantage barrel/extension passes go/no go gauges
- Geisselle SSA-E trigger
- no more than a couple hundred rounds through it
- factory recoil spring and 5.x oz buffer
- PMag, not loaded to capacity, 5/10
- Omega 300 can

It didn't want to go into battery when first charging. Would pull back the CH and the bolt would either hang up with the cartridge 1/2 way off the magazine or would require a hard smack in the FA As if the spring were seriously under powered.

It was COLD, 35*

I usually run a little on the dry side, but I lubed the heck out of it (Hoppes Gun Lube, not #9) with same result.

If I didn't catch the out of battery condition on a fresh magazine, the hammer would fall, but not fire. No firing pin mark on the primer. I'd then drop the magazine, let the charging handle/bolt fly to seat the already nearly chambered round. That round would fire and load from the magazine reliably.

Here's what I suspect happened when it doubled. The fresh magazine, 1st round, I suspect was "nearly" seated but not fully locked up. The round fired and the timing was off enough that the 2nd round fired as well.

- What's the likelihood that the cold was enough to impact spring performance?
- 36* is COLD to me, but not really all that cold for a mil-spec rifle?
- ??
 
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Firing pin and its channel are clean and it is at spec length? I would first check the reasons it might be slam firing.

How much engagement does the disconnector have? Maybe that SSA-E is a little to close to the edge to reliably hold every time? Trigger is second thing to check.

Beyond that, no ideas. I don't think 36 deg is cold unless you lubed the firing pin with something that got tacky. It should be dry.

But you probably know all this already.
 
I had one doing the exact Same thing and had exact same trigger. Sent it to Ruger and they said trigger pins. I took the ssae trigger out and replaced with a milspec trigger. Never had any more problems after that. Maybe it was pins, but it could be that trigger. I did notice a small notch on the bottom of my bcg where it was hitting something in lower. Good luck and I hope this helps


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Tim said:
It didn't want to go into battery when first charging.
Click to expand...
If you're running with a PA10 and depends on what OEM parts have been used, PSA had a problem with the PA10 chambering.
Newer rifles have been shipping with the , Mod(?), extra parts removed.

 
YeeHaa said:
If you're running with a PA10 and depends on what OEM parts have been used, PSA had a problem with the PA10 chambering.
Newer rifles have been shipping with the , Mod(?), extra parts removed.

Click to expand...


It's not a PSA, but I'll check it out any way. Thanks'
 
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Wouldn't use my firing pin to work on the bolt unless it was life or death but anywho, good to know. I had a few problems with chambering rnds that was traced to fired brass that had not been sized properly (read without a small base sizer die), not crimped properly (need more crimp) and the brass and completed round were over length. Did all those things no more chambering problems. Next set of problems. Brass getting mangled. My gun is over gassed or factory rnds such as FC or WW 147 or 149 grain rnds are just to damn hot for the PSA PA-10. Federal Gold Medal Match. No problem Reloads off the left side of the reloading table, no problem. Full strength loads are over gassing the gun and beating the crap out of the firing pin, cam pin, firing pin retaining pin and the brass. Fixed all that but still need a new firing pin. PSA charges to damn much to ship a part.

Also, went to the range the other day. Fellow sitting there with pained look on his face. LMT 308 AR won't fire. Would I take a look. Yep, broke it down, firing pin fell out of the BCG. His "buddy" the firearms expert, took it apart, "cleaned and lubed" it and put it back together wrong. Firing pin after the retaining pin. I put it back together right and it runs fine now.
 
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jimmyjames8 said:
Wouldn't use my firing pin to work on the bolt unless it was life or death but anywho, good to know. I had a few problems with chambering rnds that was traced to fired brass that had not been sized properly (read without a small base sizer die), not crimped properly (need more crimp) and the brass and completed round were over length. Did all those things no more chambering problems. Next set of problems. Brass getting mangled. My gun is over gassed or factory rnds such as FC or WW 147 or 149 grain rnds are just to damn hot for the PSA PA-10. Federal Gold Medal Match. No problem Reloads off the left side of the reloading table, no problem. Full strength loads are over gassing the gun and beating the crap out of the firing pin, cam pin, firing pin retaining pin and the brass. Fixed all that but still need a new firing pin. PSA charges to damn much to ship a part.

Also, went to the range the other day. Fellow sitting there with pained look on his face. LMT 308 AR won't fire. Would I take a look. Yep, broke it down, firing pin fell out of the BCG. His "buddy" the firearms expert, took it apart, "cleaned and lubed" it and put it back together wrong. Firing pin after the retaining pin. I put it back together right and it runs fine now.
Click to expand...


Given that in my OP I said I was using factory FGMM ammo, how would over gassing or poorly resized brass affect chambering the first round off a fresh magazine? or doubling/slam fire?
 
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AR10 platforms can be finiky as they are but you add ALOT of drama using anything from PSA and some other budget friendly companies. I would recommend 1. don't use pmags ever in an ar10 they absolutely suck nuts, 2. get an adjustable gasblock to tune the gun or 3. sell that thing and go buy a cheap DPMS because they work unlike the rash of cheapo junkers that have hit the market as of late. Its not worth the headache or drama you get from some of these things
 
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TO BE CLEAR.....THERE IS NOT A SINGLE PSA PART ON MY AR10
 
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Kac, dpms, bushy all those steel mags work about 100 percent. The magpul mags are good for pictures but they have a bad rep for feeding the ar10 well. Any of those cute 25 round windowed mags are more décor than function
 
Tim said:
Given that in my OP I said I was using factory FGMM ammo, how would over gassing or poorly resized brass affect chambering the first round off a fresh magazine? or doubling/slam fire?
Click to expand...

I've had FGMM stick in my bolt guns and PA10 going in and coming out. It aint what it used to be. Need a chamber checker to sort them now. PPU was over gassed in my gun.
 
Noveske13 said:
Kac, dpms, bushy all those steel mags work about 100 percent. The magpul mags are good for pictures but they have a bad rep for feeding the ar10 well. Any of those cute 25 round windowed mags are more décor than function
Click to expand...


Thanks, I just ordered a couple DPMS steel.
 
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