AR15 building

Englab314

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2023
Messages
48
Location
High Point NC
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
I am thinking of building an entire AR15 from scratch starting with the stripped lower and stripped upper. I am good on the lower receiver side but I have never built an upper from scratch, I wanted to see if someone close to where I live (within 30 minutes of high point) who has experience, would mind maybe linking up with me and kind of coach me in person if you will. biggest part is really barrel and gas system installation. I would obviously be happy to compensate you for your time! Thanks in advance!
 
sorry your not close to me but..
YouTube....
AR15.com has plenty of build nfo.

They are not that hard to put together.
The hardest part may be the gas port / gas tube / gas block alignment, they make all kinds of tools for that. Some even use "spaghetti " to line them up...

Do you have the 'Tools" to do it?
Upper receiver rod this one works best fit it into
a vice and go...

Midwest Industries AR-15 Upper Receiver Action Rod​

Castle Nut wrench also can double as a barrel wrench. (Sometimes)
Know your torque specs

-Snoopz
 
Last edited:
sorry your not close to me but..
YouTube....
AR15.com has plenty of build nfo.

They are not that hard to put together.
The hardest part may be the gas port / gas tube / gas block alignment, they make all kinds of tools for that. Some even use "spaghetti " to line them up...

Do you have the 'Tools" to do it?
Upper receiver rod this one works best fit it into
a vice and go...

Midwest Industries AR-15 Upper Receiver Action Rod​

Castle Nut wrench also can double as a barrel wrench. (Sometimes)
Know your torque specs

-Snoopz
Yea I gotta finish getting tools, I have some stripped upper but figured I’d get tools I know I’d need before continuing to buy the parts
 
I concur with @Snoopz. Hardest part is the gas block. Honestly If I was going to build an upper again I would go for a barrel with a pre-installed and pinned gas block.

I'm not super close to you either. ☹️
 
Last edited:
I'm not too far and I have, somewhere, most of the tools.

I've used the spaghetti trick to align the gas block before.

What is your goal? Just to be able to hit a 10" target 9/10 times at 100 yards? Sub MOA @100 from a sandbag rest?
 
The debates about this vs the G-reaction rod are nearly as epic as those about 9mm v 45acp.
I don't keep up on silly debates but I have the G. Mostly because it was one of the cheapest in stock at the time I bought it.
 
I'm not too far and I have, somewhere, most of the tools.

I've used the spaghetti trick to align the gas block before.

What is your goal? Just to be able to hit a 10" target 9/10 times at 100 yards? Sub MOA @100 from a sandbag rest?
Honestly either of those target scenarios I would be good with
 
If budget is a factor.....magpul bev block, magpul combo wrench. Wheeler and real avid have good starter and finishing punches. Not top tier stuff but won't break ya either.
 
If budget is a factor.....magpul bev block, magpul combo wrench. Wheeler and real avid have good starter and finishing punches. Not top tier stuff but won't break ya either.
Yea, I mean in my personal opinion any gun that goes boom is a gun that’s gonna do its job. A 3000 dollar AR in my opinion won’t save my life any better than a 300 dollar AR lol
 
It will come down to the minutiae. I spent over 1k on my first build because I went hog wild on the tools. Armorers kit, extra punches etc. The build wasn't anything special. Since then I have come to realize much of it isn't necessary.
When it comes to the build itself it's all in the details. A $50 dollar lower and a $300 dollar lower look much the same. Finishing and fit are the little things you notice. But I agree, get what works. Then you buy ammo put a light and a decent sight on it and run it. Train and get good. A $300 dollar built correctly in the hands of a good shooter will still beat out a $3000 dollar gucci gun in the hands of someone ill experienced.
Build to your purpose. If going all round good gun, look into microbest bcg, criterion, bcm, centurion. The barrel, bolt, gas and trigger is where I would put the most effort.
 
Last edited:
The debates about this vs the G-reaction rod are nearly as epic as those about 9mm v 45acp.
Yeah your so right but you forgot another comparison Ford vs. Chevy and so forth.
Glock vs. Sig ...etc 1911 vs. Anyone..

I dont like to get into debates, the Inet doesn't help any. Buy what you can afford or friend somebody to borrow tools and return them.

Could go on. An AR is just that an AR, can hang so much crap on it, but it's still an AR.
You can take a Pinto, drop a 302 and running gear, new paint but it's still a Pinto, may run faster, look / sound better...but

Like someone mentioned a $300 vs. $3000 AR which is gonna save my life better?

From the tools stand point , you don't need anything overly $$$$. My first builds were on Sendra lowers, long ago, a cheap castle nut wrench, most of the other stuff I had, Craftsman plain punches, torque wrench, rubber mallet, tack nail hammer, screwdrivers, etc. As time went on then it was good punch set, brass hammer, roll pin starters, upper rod tool, vise block, etc.
Lowers they are what they are $20 to a few hundred. Tolerances may be tighter, finish may be better. And speaking of tolerances,, they may be tighter but the question now is when you go to replace that part will it fit or will you have to make it fit? Bottom line "looks are looks" the target tells the story. I've still got some finished 80% lowers in the raw, they shoot fine / function great ..now looks forget about it, people laugh / poke fun, so be it. Its just another hobby, just like building 1911's or HK MP5, or any other thing...working on cars, working on wood..

That firearm is only as the operator behind it
Seen some guys with some big money tied up in long range rigs, couldn't hit the side of the barn from inside. And you have your beginner's buy what they can afford and they sometimes do great. And sometimes is it all about the name (branding)


-Snoopz
 
Last edited:
Main thing about $$$ and parts is longevity and QC. A higher-end barrel and bcg will likely last alot longer. The little lower parts and springs will wear out and/or snap in half if they arent made correctly or of appropriate material. There are cheaper companies that cut corners. They may not use the exact right materials or QC thier parts for micro-fractures or whatnot. I'd hate to be staking my life on something and have a part break halfway through a firefight. Not saying you must break the bank, just don't go out and buy the cheapest possible part.
 
I have "cheap" builds on poly lowers that'll still shoot close to MOA. Barrel, trigger, and glass will make the most difference.

Personally, for all around performance, probably a 223 Wylde in 1:8 twist, free floated. Not too light weight, not too heavy. True the face of the receiver and bed the barrel extension. Use a clamp on gas block. This purportedly will have the least affect on barrel harmonics. Bed the gas block to prevent any gas escape. I use adjustable blocks to be able to dial in the gas. Enough for it to cycle reliably with the widest selection of ammo without pounding the bolt. Torque everything to spec and use a thread locker.
 
Agreed...dont go cheap to go cheap.
Bolt carrier groups here are Toolcraft / original Colt.
The gutz, lower parts are Colt, Anderson, or Areo, DPMS. No off the wall brands..
Barrels here's where it's really all over the board for me, BCA, BA, some others. 223 Wylde 1/8 or 1/7 twist, free float handguards, adjustable low profile gas blocks, barrels are not skinny, but some are "bull" most of what I like to build is "retro look" all of them don't have one thing "hanging off them" maybe some glass that's it
anyway...Not looking for accuracy like I do in my M1A's, Kreiger barrels.

-Snoopz
 
Last edited:
Toolcraft carriers are fine. Have an extra bolt or two for just in case.

Faxon, BA, Green Mountain barrels are just fine for everyday/general purpose use.

I personally like SLR gas blocks but I think now there are many other options for quality adjustable gas blocks that would be fine.

Pick your choice of type of optic and get the best you can afford.

Wide variety of triggers. Do you prefer single or two stage? LaRue makes a great two stage. Used to make a single but I don't see it on their website anymore
 
Optics is about the only thing that I do well.
Depending on use or for what firearm platform, its mainly Vortex, (lately) then for the get down to it, it's S&B all the way....should note I have Leupolds on most of the other rifles it's good glass.

I always have spares, when it comes to the AR platform...make sure you got plenty "detents / springs " as they go flying into never ...never...land..
Been on the 9mm AR build lately..
Macon Armory barrels, toolcraft BCG, MA dead blow buffers, Colt platform lowers....

-Snoopz
 
Last edited:
Vortex is all I have at the moment. I liked the now discontinued Diamondback HP's and have a few. I have a few Strike Eagle 1 - 6's. I've since gone to the Viper HS series for anything new. They're about the limit of my budget. I buy most all of them refurbished from AAoptics.com.

I do need to "upgrade" to QD mounts on a couple ARs though. All of mine currently have Aero Precision mounts.

All of this reminds me that I have a complete build sitting in a drawer. Just need to get a barrel
 
I hear ya still got.most of my stuff boxed up from the move to SC. Gonna get a 14x20 building built for my reloading / building / gun work... have so many "projects " builds to complete its unreal..hoping I got everything down here.

Vortex is what I use lately. Gonna check out the place you named. Spending $2,500- $4,000 for glass on an AR..just don't see it from where I'm sitting. The TRG42 338LM couple of the bolts yes..the others no so much. Not rich by no means actually a cheap "B" looking for deals / sales..

-Snoopz
 
It will come down to the minutiae. I spent over 1k on my first build because I went hog wild on the tools. Armorers kit, extra punches etc. The build wasn't anything special. Since then I have come to realize much of it isn't necessary.
When it comes to the build itself it's all in the details. A $50 dollar lower and a $300 dollar lower look much the same. Finishing and fit are the little things you notice. But I agree, get what works. Then you buy ammo put a light and a decent sight on it and run it. Train and get good. A $300 dollar built correctly in the hands of a good shooter will still beat out a $3000 dollar gucci gun in the hands of someone ill experienced.
Build to your purpose. If going all round good gun, look into microbest bcg, criterion, bcm, centurion. The barrel, bolt, gas and trigger is where I would put the most effort.
Gucci gun, I love it lol. Yea I mean here is how I see it, now granted I'm not knocking anyone who spend thousands on AR platform rifles or any weapon really. The way I see it though? This weapon isn't going to Iraq, or Afghanistan, or Iran, it's not going to be shot from under 4 inches of ice in a lake in the northern mid-west (like Stallone in cliffhanger) or any crazy stuff like that. In the extremely not even measurable percent chance that I would actually NEED the specific use of the AR15 for a self-defense situation or defense of my family? the job would most definitely be done within 7 to 10 rounds, and the bad guy isn't going to care what I spent on it, and he isn't going to unalive any differently because of the money I have in it. And no, I am no, just for clarification I'm not one of these "no one needs and AR15" idiots. In fact, quite the opposite. I actually believe that if it goes "BOOM" no matter what it is you should be allowed to own it. Yes, even a nuclear weapon if you can afford it.
 
Gucci gun, I love it lol. Yea I mean here is how I see it, now granted I'm not knocking anyone who spend thousands on AR platform rifles or any weapon really. The way I see it though? This weapon isn't going to Iraq, or Afghanistan, or Iran, it's not going to be shot from under 4 inches of ice in a lake in the northern mid-west (like Stallone in cliffhanger) or any crazy stuff like that. In the extremely not even measurable percent chance that I would actually NEED the specific use of the AR15 for a self-defense situation or defense of my family? the job would most definitely be done within 7 to 10 rounds, and the bad guy isn't going to care what I spent on it, and he isn't going to unalive any differently because of the money I have in it. And no, I am no, just for clarification I'm not one of these "no one needs and AR15" idiots. In fact, quite the opposite. I actually believe that if it goes "BOOM" no matter what it is you should be allowed to own it. Yes, even a nuclear weapon if you can afford it.
100% Couldn't have said it better myself.
 
Last edited:
Yeah your so right but you forgot another comparison Ford vs. Chevy and so forth.
Glock vs. Sig ...etc 1911 vs. Anyone..

I dont like to get into debates, the Inet doesn't help any. Buy what you can afford or friend somebody to borrow tools and return them.

Could go on. An AR is just that an AR, can hang so much crap on it, but it's still an AR.
You can take a Pinto, drop a 302 and running gear, new paint but it's still a Pinto, may run faster, look / sound better...but

Like someone mentioned a $300 vs. $3000 AR which is gonna save my life better?

From the tools stand point , you don't need anything overly $$$$. My first builds were on Sendra lowers, long ago, a cheap castle nut wrench, most of the other stuff I had, Craftsman plain punches, torque wrench, rubber mallet, tack nail hammer, screwdrivers, etc. As time went on then it was good punch set, brass hammer, roll pin starters, upper rod tool, vise block, etc.
Lowers they are what they are $20 to a few hundred. Tolerances may be tighter, finish may be better. And speaking of tolerances,, they may be tighter but the question now is when you go to replace that part will it fit or will you have to make it fit? Bottom line "looks are looks" the target tells the story. I've still got some finished 80% lowers in the raw, they shoot fine / function great ..now looks forget about it, people laugh / poke fun, so be it. Its just another hobby, just like building 1911's or HK MP5, or any other thing...working on cars, working on wood..

That firearm is only as the operator behind it
Seen some guys with some big money tied up in long range rigs, couldn't hit the side of the barn from inside. And you have your beginner's buy what they can afford and they sometimes do great. And sometimes is it all about the name (branding)


-Snoopz
Great points and inputs! So let me ask you this, what do you think the percentage in the shooting world is between those who are tacticool, and tactical? because here is thing, we all have seen the guys who spend 6000 dollars to go to the range just to look like operators like you stated "cant hit the broad side of a barn from inside of it with a 223 chambered rifle at a 100 yards" and then the guy in just a plain old Tshirt and blue jeans sets up at the bench next to him and has just a basic 250 dollar 223 rifle and hes nailing targets at 300 yards out one right after the other.
 
don't forget to lap the barrel to the upper receiver.
Probably unnecessary, but I have run across a couple barrels/receivers that have noticeable wobble when you try to mate them. Ideally the barrel nut should lock that down, but if you're wanting ACCURACY, you might want to consider it.

Eventually I'll go back and pull all my barrels to lap them. you know, when i'm out of chores.
 
Main thing about $$$ and parts is longevity and QC. A higher-end barrel and bcg will likely last alot longer. The little lower parts and springs will wear out and/or snap in half if they arent made correctly or of appropriate material. There are cheaper companies that cut corners. They may not use the exact right materials or QC thier parts for micro-fractures or whatnot. I'd hate to be staking my life on something and have a part break halfway through a firefight. Not saying you must break the bank, just don't go out and buy the cheapest possible part.
That makes total sense and stated perfectly!
 
don't forget to lap the barrel to the upper receiver.
Probably unnecessary, but I have run across a couple barrels/receivers that have noticeable wobble when you try to mate them. Ideally the barrel nut should lock that down, but if you're wanting ACCURACY, you might want to consider it.

Eventually I'll go back and pull all my barrels to lap them. you know, when i'm out of chores.
I lap my uppers when I true them. Then I "bed" the barrel with loc-tite
 
Great points and inputs! So let me ask you this, what do you think the percentage in the shooting world is between those who are tacticool, and tactical? because here is thing, we all have seen the guys who spend 6000 dollars to go to the range just to look like operators like you stated "cant hit the broad side of a barn from inside of it with a 223 chambered rifle at a 100 yards" and then the guy in just a plain old Tshirt and blue jeans sets up at the bench next to him and has just a basic 250 dollar 223 rifle and hes nailing targets at 300 yards out one right after the other.
I wish I could give you that, it would really be interesting to see. Man I've seen so much of this when I was a range officer. People at the range moaning and groaning
that they spent this money for this "firearm" what's really funny is when someone else asks them, "do you mind if I try?", bamm the gongs go off, the 10 rings get eaten
up, then the person that shot it just puts it down, says thanks and walks away. On several occasions the owner would ask "so what's the problem? The response back "YOU"
You don't know how many times I've said "wait for it...wait for it..here it comes"
Then you ask "do you reload" response in some cases is NO, so you have this Multi thousand dollar gun and you don't try to get everything out of it.
" This factory ammo is fine".... O..kay end of conversation.
Then like I said you got a guy just a plain gun with some decent glass or open sights, plain guy, nailing everything he's shooting at. Luck ? maybe..
Maybe he has the drive / passion to shoot and just shoot good with what he has. most reload, most will ask for help. and not bragging, just a simple person
Some it may be what they want or their perception. I don't know.
The one thing I spend money on is glass for some of my rigs, why...look through them under all kinds of light conditions, your eyes.
other rifles it may be Vortex (just an opinion) Oh and good barrels for the bolt actions, M1A's.. But once again it's a preference.

This is my opinion over the decades (remember opinion here) this may come out all wrong, and does not apply to EVERYONE. Name...Name ... Name, so you can say
the name. sometimes Yes, all the time No. I have this, I have that, preferences. it's what you want. Question remains can you shoot it?, I'm no handgun / rifle expert, have
my good days and my bad days. days where I'm really bad, just can't get in the "zone" I've thrown a many handguns in a Ransom Rest, from cheap to expensive, you've
got your good n bad on both sides. Not gonna get into which.

a little off topic it's just like in my muscle car days, you go get a motor part for a 454 Chevy Hi-pro if it was
for a vette it cost more, same part just a different number... just using this..

-Snoopz
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom