Best Dremel bit for making curved cut in .2” thick plastic?

fieldgrade

fieldgrade

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This will be a curved cut out of a rounded instrument cluster. I think a Dremel will be the best tool and I just bought one to replace one my kids have. I’ll be making two 2” curved cuts out of .2” thick plastic instrument cluster.

What’s the best bit? I don’t think what came with my $50 dremel kit has what I really need to do it.

The dotted “C” shaped line is what I will be cutting on either side of the cluster.
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Frack N Cylons said:
The first thing that popped into my mind would be to use a very fine blade on a coping saw or jewelers saw instead of a Dremel.
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Can’t easily get in there. Wires and cable immediately on the other side, and fairing on this side. I can get in with the dermel.

I’m going to buy another bit if someone will suggest one.
 
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Try for a medium router bit. Run it very slow so the plastic won't melt

The issues I've had was with a Dremel it's all free hand. The bits tend to snag and gouge. Then you have the plastic messed up.

Have you checked if a 2" hole saw will cut the curve? Place a backer (wood or plastic) that the pilot bit can be in as a guide if the hole saw is in an existing hole.
 
rdinatal said:
Try for a medium router bit. Run it very slow so the plastic won't melt

The issues I've had was with a Dremel it's all free hand. The bits tend to snag and gouge. Then you have the plastic messed up.

Have you checked if a 2" hole saw will cut the curve? Place a backer (wood or plastic) that the pilot bit can be in as a guide if the hole saw is in an existing hole.
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Guys, I appreciate the suggestions. I’m no stranger to hand tools. I just want a suggestion for the best dremel bit.
 
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hp468 said:
I’d go slow with a rotozip bit, cut inside the line then finish it to desired dimension with a little dremel sanding drum. A burr might work if you go slow and work it over the outline repetitively to slowly remove material.
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sounds good. Thanks.
 
Do you have the variable speed Dremel? Or is it just a single speed? I would use the little cutting disk to cut as close as you can to the line, and get the big piece of plastic removed. Then use a cutting burr like this at slow speed to finish it up to the line. I use that type of bit a lot at the foundry.

Amazon product ASIN B000CDORLS
 
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Red Marley said:
@fieldgrade , I would rough it out close to your line with one of the tools above, then use the sanding drum on the Dremel to bring the finish edge to the line. It’s easier to control the sanding drum. I’ve done this on fiberglass.
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I know it would upset someone but I would have allowed you to quote my post and just reply “this”. Carpel tunnel ain’t no joke, we need to minimize risks when we can.

😁
 
I have some tiny burr bits. I'll look tomorrow and show what I have. I'll mail you one if it will work.
 
LeeMajors said:
I have some tiny burr bits. I'll look tomorrow and show what I have. I'll mail you one if it will work.
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Thank you. I just picked up two small burr bits. Gonna give it a go.
 
Not bad for freestyle. Did the other side to match for the brake line. And done. Thanks fellas.
 
Me. said:
That’s turning out well, @fieldgrade. Did you just “go for it” with the bit, or make a test-run in the area that you knew you’d be removing?
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Thanks. Just jumped right in. I’ve got a pretty steady hand.
 
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