Breaker Replacement for Garage Receptacle

lowcountry

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Need to replace the breaker that runs my one garage receptacle. Receptacle is a GFCI. Since I will be running an extension chord for outside projects when needed. Should I go with a regular breaker or something with ground or arc fault?
 
Why do you think you need to replace the breaker?

If the recept is GFCI, you don't need anything redundant in the panel. Use a standard breaker. Arc fault is stupid. If you're using things with motors(ie yard tools and power tools) they have motors that arc.
 
I have a 30 gallon air compressor that trips the breaker immediately, but works fine on another circuit.
 
I have a 30 gallon air compressor that trips the breaker immediately, but works fine on another circuit.
It's possible that the breaker is wearing out. When this happens they do trend to trip on larger loads. GFCI receptacles can also trip on motor loads.

I wouldn't bother with an arc fault. Those were largely designed for arcing, heat producing faults that start fires in bedrooms and aren't very practical for this application and would be an unnecessary expense.
 
I have a 30 gallon air compressor that trips the breaker immediately, but works fine on another circuit.

I suppose it could be a worn breaker. Not uncommon and a cheap thing to test. Swap it with a standard breaker.

Depending on how far the outlet is from the panel, it could be voltage drop causing an amperage boost on the circuit too. Big motor pulls like that are susceptible to that issue. For example, my jobsite compressor will work fine plugged into a 20amp circuit directly, but plug it into an extension cord over 25ft and it's more likely to trip the breaker than not...
 
If your breaker's tripping and you really don't have anything else on that circuit, then replace the breaker. Don't bother getting fancy...it's not necessary.

Check to see what else is on that circuit. That may be the only receptacle, but that could be because someone ran a receptacle off your lights or something. Check it out and see what else is on it.

Then look at the wiring...if that circuit has 14 gauge wire, then the breaker should be a 15 amp breaker and no more. If it's 12 gauge wiring (which is all I ever use any more to wire up circuits in a house or garage, as a minimum), then the breaker should be a 20 amp breaker, and no more.
 
How many feet of extension are you using and what gauge?
 
Need to replace the breaker that runs my one garage receptacle. Receptacle is a GFCI. Since I will be running an extension chord for outside projects when needed. Should I go with a regular breaker or something with ground or arc fault?
Why do you say you need a new breaker?
 
Pay attention to the Chief! Breakers are sized to wire size , not load.

As far as AFCI and GFCI, how they work depends a lot upon what you bought. There are AFCI/GFCI that are marketed cheaply because they're poorly engineered and the algorithms that are in the microprocessors (which is how the device determines if you've just started up a light dimmer OR drilled into the black wire in Romex) are unsophisticated. Others are based on millions of dollars worth of testing and 20 yrs worth of field data and development.

The latter type costs more and work better.

I would never try and work around a GFCI in a garage or workshop. They may save your life.
 
Used to work for a major GFCI manufacturer. Some will nuisance trip and is best to replace them with another one.

They are technically not life saving devices, but rather death avoidance devices.
 
He's not having a problem with his GFI receptacle, per se...he's having a problem with his breaker.

Keep in mind that the circuit is simple, and therefore only a limited number of places where there could be a problem. This is why I said to figure out what all is on this circuit.

When you're having problems like this, here is what I recommend:

- Replace the breaker. They're cheap, no reason not to for this type of problem.

- Check ALL the receptacles on the circuit. Check all connections tight (hot, return, and ground). Make sure the receptacles are in good condition and plugs fit snug when inserted. Replace any suspect receptacles...again, they're cheap. And buy quality ones. Bad connections cause problems...they can trip breakers and cause arc damage and fires.

- Verify your GFI receptacles are wired correctly. If they're not, not only won't they function properly, but you could eventually have other problems. If it was not wired properly, replace it with a new one because it may have been damaged/degraded due to being wired incorrectly. While they're more expensive than plain receptacles, they're not THAT bad. And buy quality ones.

- Look at all the wiring on the circuit during these inspections...they should all be the same gauge...either 14 or 12 gauge. You should not have mixed wire sizes on the same circuit. Fix it if need be.

- Switches, lighting, etc...same checks for tightness and physical condition.


That's it, in a nutshell. Easy-peasy.

As for extension cords, others have already hit on it. For heavy loads, use a heavy duty extension cord (12 gauge). It DOES make a difference. Also, use the shortest cord necessary to reach your compressor and use only one extension cord...don't daisy chain them.

Most people don't think about extension cords much because they're so simple. Read the following link for basic info:

https://gizmodo.com/5903218/how-to-choose-the-right-extension-cord-for-anything
 
I agree strongly with the points about extension cords. My wife bought a cheap, electric pressure washer. When I tried to run it with "dollar store" extension cords, no go. Upgrading to the heaviest gauge cord I could afford, I can now run that toy 100' away.
 
The subject of "heavy duty" cable brings up the face that there are several different types of cable all with different usages. Some are wet, damp, or dry, UV resistant, oil resistant, can be buried, and hard duty. The highest duty is mining rated.

Here's a UL publication on this with a table list: https://www.ul.com/global/documents...ctrical/newsletters/W&CMG_April2007_Final.pdf

UL tends to go beyond and enhance the NEC but still coordinates with it.
 
I stand by my original question. :D
Sure the one you'd need is cheap, but it likely won't solve your problem. Breakers rarely go bad in a house. If it's tripping it's just doing it's job and you have a different issue. If the handle is all loosey goosey and doesn't have that positive click click sound then yeah it's probably the breaker. But if it goes click click snap snap I'd be prepared to look for something else.
 
@Friday yes, they rarely go bad, but if he's run heavier loads from appliances or tools, as he said it's the one receptacle, that does have a tendency to age them to where they trip more often when they're close to their rated load.
 
Why has no one summoned @gunbelt ???

Everyone knows he’s a master electrician
 
Put a new breaker and no more issues.

Thank you for the advice.

Receptacle is less than 2 ft away from panel and is a 20 amp 12 gauge wire. If I do use an extension chord for this compressor, it is 50ft and 12 guage wire which is what the manual specs out.
 
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