broken forearm

vaskeet

vaskeet

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winchester 101 broken forearm that I would like to try to repair looking for advise and comments
1st pictures is of broken off with piece missing
next forearm with broken off piece sitting on it
last 2 show the broke off piece
the gun is a shooter not a showpiece so I dont care if repair is visible as long as it is strong

101.4.jpg

101.19.jpg

101.18.jpg

101.16.jpg

101.17.jpg
 
I've seen forearms repaired using wood glue to reattach the broken off piece and then fiber glassed inside to strength it.
 
Gorilla glue is good, but it's an expanding glue and will leave an unsightly bonding line and does not take finish. But it certainly is a strong bond. JBWeld makes a clear epoxy that will work on wood, but I've never used it before.

Probably the best would be plain 'ol carpenters/wood glue but you'd definitely want some kind of reinforcement.
 
ronn47 said:
Look at the repairs done to military guns.
They drill a small hole, glue and hold the pieces together with small brass all-thread rod.
Click to expand...
I'd probably use some sort of dowels epoxied in, glue the joint, a little wood filler along the seam, and refinish .
 
NO Gorilla glue! In comparison it’s weak and ugly.
I’d use Titebond III (it’s stronger than the wood), or Brownells Acra-Glass. You can use a small acid brush to put a thin layer on the exposed surfaces. The biggest trick will be clamping it. You can use a damp paper towel (water with Titebond, vinegar with epoxy) to wipe off the glue that squeezes out. The bonded line may be barely visible.
 
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Another vote for TB3 with some small dowels, just to mitigate concerns with the shear loads it will see under recoil. I'd probably do three based on the location of the break. Two in the "meaty" parts on the left side, and one on the far right.
 
www.brownells.com

ACRAGLAS® | Brownells

The word ACRAGLAS has proven, during the many years it has been used by shooters, to be a true and fair product description. For Acraglas, as its name implies, is an accurizing material designed for the exclusive purpose of making a rifle shoot mo...
www.brownells.com www.brownells.com
 
Average Joe said:
@NiceOldDouble may have a good suggestion. While this isn’t his usual repairs and restorations. I imagine the glue he uses would work with this one as well.
Click to expand...
Acraglass is great, as is West Systems.

Detached slivers are hard to clamp. They slip. Various tape products work well for that kind of break.
 
Here's info on the brass threaded rod repairs I mentioned up stream.


1684343282160.png


You can also use plain threaded brass rod which you can buy pre-threaded (say 6-32) or thread yourself with a die.
Simplest to just buy the machine screw at Home Depot. It comes with a convenient slotted head for installation, no need to cut your own.
The 6-32 thread requires a #34 drill (8-32 needs a #29 drill). Drill the hole, fill with epoxy, and screw in the thread. When cured, cut off excess thread flush with the surface.

Drill the hole, epoxied the hole and crack then screwed in the rod after clamping. Quick clean up after it set and file down the end of the rod. Touch up the wood with a little BLO and you're done. Easy to do and good way to save a cracked stock.

Brownells repair pins:

www.brownells.com

STOCK REPAIR PIN KIT | Brownells

With this Kit, plus ACRAGLAS and a vari-speed drill, you can do quick, easy, sure-to-hold repair jobs on cracked or broken stocks. Pins go in easily, won't further split the stock; cannot pull or shoot out; can be cut off at any length. Made of 'h...
www.brownells.com www.brownells.com
 
For that I'd probably use epoxy, although titebond will work. The epoxy is a little stronger. It's an easy fix, just need clamps. Dowels not really necessary, and would make the repair harder than it needs to be. Finish blend in shouldn't be hard either.
 
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