Build Me a Budget Car Stereo System

SPST

I'm With Timmy
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2016
Messages
8,390
Location
Charlotte
Rating - 100%
12   0   0
Looking to have a car stereo installed. What's the best budget options? I'm looking at a Kenwood DMX706S head unit. I need to add 6.5 inch door speakers and 1 inch tweeters. The rear speakers are also 6.5 inch. I would like to add a subwoofer and amp also. I would also like to keep it under $1K with install included. Any suggestions appreciated.
 
Would you consider doing it yourself? You'll either save money or do a better job, or both.

Class D suborder amplifiers have gotten smaller and cheaper over the years. You can put modest power into a 12" sub in a ported box to get way more output than you would from a larger subwoofer in a sealed box with more power. You can also save money by using coaxial speakers in front instead of paying for separate mid-range speakers and tweeters. If it's in your budget, I'm partial to JL Audio for amplifiers and subwoofers.

Good luck. It's tempting to dive headfirst down the car audio rabbit hole.
 
I already have separate speakers and tweeters in the doors. I am not interested in doing it myself. I mainly want it for phone connectivity and Pandora. I don't need a window shaking system. Just decent sound upgrade from stock.
 
I already have separate speakers and tweeters in the doors. I am not interested in doing it myself. I mainly want it for phone connectivity and Pandora. I don't need a window shaking system. Just decent sound upgrade from stock.

Good. Knowing what you want is how to start.

The head unit you've chosen will run you around $350. A decent pair of 6.5" component speakers for the front will be $135. A pair of 6.5" coaxial speakers for the rear will run you around $85. A single 10" will cost around $120. A sealed sub enclosure will cost around $75. The subwoofer amp will cost around $175. The wiring kit for the amplifier will run about $25. The head unit installation harness will cost about $20.

That puts you at almost $1,000 without labor, but you could get it for less if you choose cheap stuff.
 
Check out Crutchfield. It's been a while but last time I was in your shoes they can help work within a budget to get you what you want without going over. They even have idiot-proof instructions on install, or they can refer you to someone local that can work within your budget as well. I don't see you having any problems getting this done under $1k.
 
Just a quick look around at Crutchfield found a factory refurb unit for 300, new for 350.

What car are you trying to do this with? That'll help immensely narrow it down and find ways to cut cost.

Are you dead-set on 6.5" mid-ranges based on preference or based on that being what the car has? (See question above)
 
Just to touch on, if you are upgrading the speaker, spend the money on a Amp that will power the subwoofer and doors speakers.
 
Just to touch on, if you are upgrading the speaker, spend the money on a Amp that will power the subwoofer and doors speakers.
That depends on the power output and channels of the head unit. If it supplies adequate power to the doors, you don't need to mess with all of the wiring and extras that go along with that. Plus you can save some cash on an amp that is solely used on 1 or 2 channels depending on the sub you want to set up.

IE>>> If you have a head unit that's 2x25, then you'll want an amp for 6 speakers (2 tweeters and four 6.5's).
If you have a head unit that's 4x50, you really don't need to worry about it, you'll never really hear a difference between having an amp for it or not. (This is the peak power output of the head unit he's looking at with a built-in amp at 22 watts RMS)
 
Last edited:
I just had an upgrade head unit on our van without changing speakers. Other things to keep in mind based on your vehicle: Do you need an adapter for steering wheel controls? Do you need a new microphone for the phone connectivity? New USB power (I had to upgrade to USB 3.0)? Satellite radio connectivity? Camera connectivity? Bluetooth?

My primary driver was to get Apple CarPlay. New head unit was about $400 and labor + all the weird harnesses and adapters was almost $1000. That was without any new speakers/amps/etc.

YMMV
 
That depends on the power output and channels of the head unit. If it supplies adequate power to the doors, you don't need to mess with all of the wiring and extras that go along with that. Plus you can save some cash on an amp that is solely used on 1 or 2 channels depending on the sub you want to set up.

IE>>> If you have a head unit that's 2x25, then you'll want an amp for 6 speakers (2 tweeters and four 6.5's).
If you have a head unit that's 4x50, you really don't need to worry about it, you'll never really hear a difference between having an amp for it or not. (This is the peak power output of the head unit he's looking at with a built-in amp at 22 watts RMS)

About 50/50 of those come with cross overs, 4 speakers then. Depending on the car I typically try to get as close to 50 watts rms as I can to get out of having to get a amp.
 
About 50/50 of those come with cross overs, 4 speakers then. Depending on the car I typically try to get as close to 50 watts rms as I can to get out of having to get a amp.
True, I agree 100%, but this a budget build. To get a Kenwood head unit that would fit that spec and be like the one he's looking at you'd be spending close to a grand on just the unit itself. Since he's got tweeters and mid-ranges, a sacrifice in a little power is fine since it has the backup to round out the sound without a noticeable difference in quality.
 
I would also recommend Crutchfield. Have bought from them for years and they make it super easy. Also, their tech support is fantastic if needed. My son and I recently installed new coax Kicker door speakers in his 4Runner and also a new Sony radio with CarPlay. The sound is way better than the old JBL system that was in there. Next step probably this summer will be to add a small sub with a sub amp and a backup camera.
 
It's going in a 2008 Subaru Outback. No steering wheel controls. I guess I could always start out without a sub and amp and add them later if I don't like the sound with just the head unit and new speakers. I will probably have it done at Freeman's Car Stereo.
 
It's going in a 2008 Subaru Outback. No steering wheel controls. I guess I could always start out without a sub and amp and add them later if I don't like the sound with just the head unit and new speakers. I will probably have it done at Freeman's Car Stereo.

Don’t go to Freeman’s...I’ve known the owner and the family since high school. They’ll charge so much for install and it’s shoddy at best. I’ve done better installs in the rain at midnight in a Food Lion parking lot for a case of beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I used Crutchfield when I did my truck. Idiot proof instructions & perfect fit.

I didn't want a "system", just better sound for listening to music. To that end, a nice 4x40w JVC head unit & JBL 6x9s in all 4 doors did it for me. Think I was around $600 for parts (in '08) & did the install myself.

Crutchfield's kits & instructions really do make it easy & this from a guy who despises working on anything remotely electrical.
 
Dont pay someone, ask for help here.

A grand seems like plenty in equipment, but to pay someone to plug up a harness is ridiculous etc
 
Don’t go to Freeman’s...I’ve known the owner and the family since high school. They’ll charge so much for install and it’s shoddy at best. I’ve done better installs in the rain at midnight in a Food Lion parking lot for a case of beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Second this. Freeman’s has been doing terrible work for years.

Problem is that it’s hidden and the customer just doesn’t know it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have watched a bunch of install videos on YouTube. It looks pretty easy. I priced out a Kenwood head unit, Hertz tweeters, and Rockford Fosgate speakers front and rear along with all adapters, faceplate, wiring harness, brackets, and tools on Crutchfield and it comes in around $650. I may just go this route.
 
I have watched a bunch of install videos on YouTube. It looks pretty easy. I priced out a Kenwood head unit, Hertz tweeters, and Rockford Fosgate speakers front and rear along with all adapters, faceplate, wiring harness, brackets, and tools on Crutchfield and it comes in around $650. I may just go this route.

It really isn’t difficult. Just take your time and step by step. Crutchfield’s install instructions are car specific most times, so it makes it even easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have watched a bunch of install videos on YouTube. It looks pretty easy. I priced out a Kenwood head unit, Hertz tweeters, and Rockford Fosgate speakers front and rear along with all adapters, faceplate, wiring harness, brackets, and tools on Crutchfield and it comes in around $650. I may just go this route.

Here's the thing... Car audio is just like any other big boy hobby. It can get expensive in a hurry. You really ought to do the work yourself, but you're going to regret it if you go cheap on every component in the system.

What you're missing right now is bass, so upgrade the head unit and add a subwoofer and amplifier. Spend GOOD MONEY (your whole budget) on these items. You may be surprised at how good the front and rear speakers sound when they aren't trying to do everything from 20,000 Hz down to 20 Hz.

Then, after adding the bass, if you still think the mids and highs sounds bad, you can upgrade them later very easily.

Trust me. I've spent more on the stereo than I did on the new car. I've been down this road as a consumer and doing the work.
 
I'll start off with just the new speakers and head unit. If it doesn't sound a whole lot better than the stock system I can always add an amp and subwoofer later. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
I'll start off with just the new speakers and head unit. If it doesn't sound a whole lot better than the stock system I can always add an amp and subwoofer later. Thanks for all the suggestions.

I’d go this route. The main reason you wanted to do this was for the phone connectivity right? The rest is gravy at that point. A new set of speakers will sound awesome and you’ll notice a big difference, especially with the new head unit.

If you run into any issues don’t hesitate to ask, I may be able to swing through and give you hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’ll throw my two cents in here, been doing it a while.

Go pioneer for your head unit and get one that has selectable crossovers. Pioneer has one of the stronger internal amps, and you can set the high pass crossover at 80hz to limit bass to your door speakers allowing them to play louder without distortion.

Get door speakers for front only, don’t waste money in rears (you don’t need them for proper staging anyway). Get a set with the highest sensitivity possible, they will make the best use of power from your head unit.

I highly recommend a vehicle specific enclosure for your subwoofer, unless it’s just going in the cargo area or trunk of a car or van/suv and you can afford the space. Try for at least a 10”, but you may be bound by the factory fit enclosure limitations. The pre loaded factory enclosures from companies like kicker and jl audio work great also. Get a 250/1 or 500/1 amp and the appropriate sized wiring kit, and set the low pass crossover for 80 hz or so.

With these suggestions, you could build a system well under $1000 that should blow away any factory higher end stereo.
 
Last edited:
Is there a simple (cheap) way to add bass to a factory Ford Edge? I’d like to really hear in a company car, Neil Peart, John Bonham, Keith Moon, John Entwistle (Ox), Geddy Lee, etc.
 
Last edited:
Got a Crutchfield catalog in the mail today and thought this short article might interest @SPST or @Pink_Vapor

642513CA-BAFD-4955-AFCE-069564F88DC7.jpeg 67C20DAF-2BE1-4DCC-A587-A10AFC585C4A.jpeg
 
Got a Crutchfield catalog in the mail today and thought this short article might interest @SPST or @Pink_Vapor

View attachment 188430 View attachment 188431

Thanks, you just cost me another $200. I dropped the $150 Sound Ordnance sub, RCA patch cables and wiring harness in my cart now.
So far I have the head unit and all wiring and dash kits. Front component speakers, rear coxaial speakers and all wiring and install kits. And now a powered sub with all wiring and cable kits. $850 for it all. I'm capping it there and hoping for the best. The install videos don't look too bad. I've put auxiliary fuse panels, switches, relays, extra lights and comm/music systems on several motorcycles so this shouldn't be to much worse than that. Thanks
 
Thanks, you just cost me another $200. I dropped the $150 Sound Ordnance sub, RCA patch cables and wiring harness in my cart now.
So far I have the head unit and all wiring and dash kits. Front component speakers, rear coxaial speakers and all wiring and install kits. And now a powered sub with all wiring and cable kits. $850 for it all. I'm capping it there and hoping for the best. The install videos don't look too bad. I've put auxiliary fuse panels, switches, relays, extra lights and comm/music systems on several motorcycles so this shouldn't be to much worse than that. Thanks

I think you’ll be pleased. And like I said, if you need a hand just say the word. If I remember right (I’m on my phone and can’t see it) you’re in Charlotte, so a short drive and I can help out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think you’ll be pleased. And like I said, if you need a hand just say the word. If I remember right (I’m on my phone and can’t see it) you’re in Charlotte, so a short drive and I can help out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the offer. If I get stuck anywhere I may just take you up on it.
 
Last edited:
SPST - smart choices man. I think youll find that audio stuff is usually REALLY simple. Just take your time getting dash panels off so you dont break off any tabs or anything.
But if the wiring harness is from them then it's plug and play. Then changing out some speakers - again, hard part is taking door panels off. YouTube is great for DIY tips on safe removing.
 
I've watched tons of videos. The powered subwoofer install is about the only thing I'm really concerned about.
 
I've watched tons of videos. The powered subwoofer install is about the only thing I'm really concerned about.
My son and I will probably be installing a sub and amplifier this Saturday along with a backup camera that he is getting for his birthday tomorrow. You are welcome to come over and join in and we can do them all together if you want. You know where I live.
 
What’s your concern?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not real sure on the wiring of the powered sub.
I also bought some sound deadening mat. I figured that if I have to take the door panels off, I might as well put sound mat on while I'm in there.
 
I'm not real sure on the wiring of the powered sub.
I also bought some sound deadening mat. I figured that if I have to take the door panels off, I might as well put sound mat on while I'm in there.

I don’t know if they’ve changed a lot since I played with those, but from what I understand it’ll be a power wire and a signal wire, and that’s it. Power wire should go to the battery, and the signal wire should go to the head unit. Done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don’t know if they’ve changed a lot since I played with those, but from what I understand it’ll be a power wire and a signal wire, and that’s it. Power wire should go to the battery, and the signal wire should go to the head unit. Done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I think it's just the power, ground, signal and two RCA cables.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom