Building another silenced Ruger pistol

wired

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http://www.smallarmsreview.com/disp...i4T7lNgCjd0LPCAw1Piu4Y4wQG5x5Ea2jANeX_ZshHQnM

I'm home for a few weeks with Covid 19 so I decided to let my old Ruger Mark 1 from 1953 go into the afterlife instead of me. Not that he's shooting the bucket per se but he's going to get transformed into a Vietnam era tunnel clearer. Ive got a few Ruger pistols but nothing as short as that one.

Went out this morning and cut , knurled and threaded the front cap from 4140 steel. I rebuilt my old southbend 9" and its cutting straight and true.

Threads are cut 15/16-28 UN

Getting a little fevery so I'll head n for a bit. I MIGHT get the nerve up to cut the barrel today. Ive had this gun for around 25 years . Paid $75 for it at a garage sale and it had somebodies SSN engraved in the side with one of those buzzing things. Looked like shit. Anyhoo I surface ground off the side of the lower and send the whole mess into Ruger soon after for a rebuild and reblue. They did a great job even putting new grips on for free. I'm just not a standard model guy.

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Thanks for the link to that article - fascinating bit of history! I'm looking forward to watching how you do your build.
 
The way Covid works is you set something down and then spend an hour trying to remember where. Tubes threaded and receiver side barrel bushing built. I'll drill the bushing for a pin to locate the tube and broach the tube for the pin. I have to make a nut to draw the tube onto the receiver and lock it down. I like doing it this way versus just screwing on the silencer as it gets to be difficult to properly index a tube mounted front sight.
 
The silencer I am building is pretty short so I skipped my usual integral method and decided to do a thread on and lock everything in place with red loctite to keep the tube from turning. I have never had good luck with rockset. . Ive been working on Ruger mark series pistols for roughly 35 years. Ive never had one just unscrew on me. I had cut the barrel back to the receiver and threaded the barrel close to the base and was finishing up the last few threads with a die and it popped loose under about 10 lbs of torque. That NEVER happens. Anyway I unscrewed the barrel and finished up and ran it back in with red loctite.Weird.

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I'll probably just go ahead and parkerize the tube now. I'm not set up to blue anything. Its a real hassle for small jobs and rust bluing can be its own circle of hell. If anyone knows someone who can do some bluing jobs please let me know. I have some parts that need to get blued.

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2 1/2" I keep telling my wife thats all you need.

I was having a discussion with some guy on some forum. Facebook maybe He was showing off designs for his 9mm AR he was building. with ported barrel and a 3" expansion chamber ahead of the baffles. . I was trying to convince him that that his 1940's tech expansion chamber could better be replaced by a 2.5 to 3" short barrel and the space made up with a plain old set of K baffles like they didnt use in the 1940's because it really ceases to be a barrel and starts to be a shitty silencer once the bullet hits that first bore hole.

No one listens to me.
 
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I'll parkerize the tube tomorrow and get the sight screwed or soldered on. Took it out in the yard today and ran a mag full of CCI quiet and Remington golden bullets through my spectre 2 . No function problems.

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In Manganese Phosphate . I was thinking of doing it blue but given the military aspect I think i'll just park the whole gun. Still need to mount the front sight. I found a screw on sight in my crap pile so I'll locate and drill it AFTER the gun gets park'd
and the tube gets loctited on for the final time. My sandblaster ate a hole in the discharge valve while blasting the tube so I have to pick up a valve first.
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In Manganese Phosphate . I was thinking of doing it blue but given the military aspect I think i'll just park the whole gun. Still need to mount the front sight. I found a screw on sight in my crap pile so I'll locate and drill it AFTER the gun gets park'd
and the tube gets loctited on for the final time. My sandblaster ate a hole in the discharge valve while blasting the tube so I have to pick up a valve first.
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What material did you end up going with for baffles and tube?
 
The tube is 4340 steel, the end caps 4140 and the baffles are titanium for the first 3 and the next 7 ore 7075 aluminum. I cant bore the cap or baffles until the form 1 comes back in a few weeks
 
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The tube is 4340 steel, the end caps 4140 and the baffles are titanium for the first 3 and the next 7 ore 7075 aluminum. I cant bore the cap or baffles until the form 1 comes back in a few weeks


Thanks for the info, are you turning titanium in house or sourcing the unfinished baffles? Know the stuff can be tough on tooling
 
No I'm using the quiet bore baffles. Making that man baffles out of bar stock on a manual machine would be its own little circle of hell.
 
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