Car Dealer Experiences - Modern & Keffer... Informative and slightly amusing

Jerzsubbie

Senior Member
Charter Member
Benefactor
Life Member
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
10,527
Location
Mooresville
Rating - 100%
85   0   0
A friend wanted my help getting his fiance a new car, just an inexpensive compact sedan, so we zeroed in on Jettas and Elantras, both being sub-$15k. I've bought a handful of cars from dealers, have sales experience, have finance knowledge, and have no problem calling someone out on their BS, so it usually makes for an interesting time. While I am prepared for their BS, I always give them a chance to be well-intentioned and fair.

I'll try to be brief, but wanted to share in case anyone else in the CLT-metro area is in the market. We first shopped online, and Keffer VW Huntersville seemed to have the best prices for Jettas while Modern Hyundai in Concord had the best deals on Elantras.

Keffer VW Huntersville
Our first stop, offered $50 Amazon gift card for doing a test drive
Advertised 2017 Jetta S (base) for $13,535
Sales guy was new to the area, seemed a bit uncomfortable, but was decently nice
Test drove car, he was willing to let us drive however long we wanted, almost where ever. Better product specialist than sales person
Low balled us on the trade. $2500 Kbb private party, 1300-1500 via Keffer's trade in tool online, $800 kbb trade in value (worst condition), they offered $300
We didn't NEED to trade it so decided we'd sell it on CL for like $2k
We began talking numbers back in his borrowed office and they start off at $16,330
They added $100 to the online sale price, plus $1,000 for recent graduate discount we didn't qualify for, plus$1,695 for the "Keffer Advantage"
The "Keffer Advantage" is where things began to get good... It includes basic maintenance, oil change, extra 2yr warranty, window tint, edge guard film, state inspections IIRC
After breaking things down, clearly showing/telling them that this package is only advantageous to Keffer, and telling them we don't see the value in this package and therefore will not pay for it, they offered $482 for tint and edgeguard which was already applied to all vehicles and was "their cost".
I insisted that if $482 is their cost that they need to find a new tint guy because they're getting ripped off. I've had 2 sedans tinted for $200 and I'm just a 'joe blow' with a single vehicle, surely a dealer can get huge volume discounts.
It took me a while but I finally discovered that the recent graduate discount is only $500 not $1k, so they were padding in an extra $500
When we hinted at getting our own financing, they said they would add another $750 to the price because of another incentive from VW financial
They wouldn't give us an itemized list of incentives and wanted to keep playing games
Their bottom line was online price + $1k grad incentive + $482 tint = $15,017, we didn't bother moving forward with financing, and I could only imagine the games they'd try there
We left and from that point they had maybe a 25% chance of regaining our business but it would have cost them dearly.
Fast forward 3 days later, they called my friend saying they can't honor the $50 Amazon gc deal!

Modern Hyandai Concord
Stopped in Black Friday
2018 Elentra SEL $15,559, +$900 more than SE (base) model for touchscreen, backup cam, blind spot monitoring
Salesman was very nice, clearly enjoyed his job
Test drive was uneventful, got the exact car we were looking at
When we began talking numbers, price was about 2k higher than online price but immediately corrected without hassle
We decided to simply sell her old car on CL and not even try to trade it in.
The Modern xyz package, similar to "Keffer's Dis-advantage" was $1,100 but the dealer discounted the car $1470 on top of all of the mfg rebates. They were unwilling to budge more than $200. No surprises with incentives.
So only a few hundred more for the Elantra with more features and nearly double the warranty, albeit a marginally smaller car.
Salesman was pretty slow to return every time he ran off to get the test drive car, get numbers from finance mgr, get car detailed before delivery, etc but that was our biggest complaint.
Financing process was smooth and easy, rate was slightly better than expected, again no surprises
Certainly not the quickest buying experience but one of the most pain free.

Bottom Line:
Modern was so easy to deal with that my friends didn't really need me there and it kind of took the fun out of navigating the typical dealership games. The overall ease of purchase rivals Carmax, whose financing policy frankly blows if you have great credit. I wouldn't even consider Keffer in the future due to an apparent lack of integrity.
 
It's been a while since I've bought from a dealer but Randy Marion Subaru in Mooresville was the best dealer experience I've ever had.
 
God, the games we play. I've been fortunate enough to write a check for the last 5 or 6 vehicles and that simplifies my life tremendously. I'll shop the lot and take stock numbers of what I'm interested in and do the research to find what they have in the vehicle as it sits. I'll pay 2500.00 over and the deal is done.
A friend of mine taught me this years ago and it works flawlessly... I'll allow the salesperson to "get a manager" once and then that's all, so you better make your manager choice carefully. I'm old, I'm short tempered and I don't have all day, my time is limited...
 
I’ve bought 5 vehicles from modern dealerships and have always found them to be fair and open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My wife went to Keffer same exact story. We left and she emailed the sales manager with an offer that was 2k less than their offer she had done some research and it was accepted.
 
The last time we bought from a dealer we did it online. That was much easier. We negotiated the entire deal, including trade, via email. All we had to do was deliver the trade for inspection to seal it.
 
I got two 10 month old cars, 99 sable and 99 taurus wagon from Hertz car sales, $200 doc fee,
they wanted 8% but I told them I can't hear him, (my way of saying rate too high). 3.5% at credit union.
Two almost new cars for what is less then a new car.
Still driving them both. Hertz in no longer in Raleigh but in Charlotte, Winston and Greensboro.
The price you see is what you pay. check them out on https://www.hertzcarsales.com/
 
Last edited:
Good write up.
Ive had some good car buying experiences, and some dang crap ones
One of the crap ones I think I posted here when the site first launched. It involved me telling them what I had to have (specifically the monthly payment), and they were all gung-ho. When I got there they pulled out the numbers and it was 50% higher than I said I needed to be at. What the crap? Then the manager didnt want to accept that his 'salesman' had told me one thing and then drastically changed by the time I got there.
 
The best way to kill a salesman’s game is to say this: I don’t care how much the payment is, I only care how much the car costs. If they don’t basically point you to the exit, you’ll know you have a chance.
 
Never step foot on a lot till you've negotiated your out the door price via email with all dealership within a 500 mile range. Best advice I can give you.

I saved 6k on my Jeep and had it delivered to my door from Charleston. I signed my paperwork sitting on my front steps.
 
Never step foot on a lot till you've negotiated your out the door price via email with all dealership within a 500 mile range. Best advice I can give you.

I saved 6k on my Jeep and had it delivered to my door from Charleston. I signed my paperwork sitting on my front steps.
I think I read your long post about this in another thread and plan to do just that when I buy my Tacoma in the next month or so.
 
The best way to kill a salesman’s game is to say this: I don’t care how much the payment is, I only care how much the car costs. If they don’t basically point you to the exit, you’ll know you have a chance.
Yup, one of my favorite parts of the dance. Most I see deflate a little bit, one at Toyota N CLT tried to debate with me that starting with a target monthly payment was how you buy a car, LOL. I had to explain to her that a monthly payment is a function of a handful of factors, an end result rather than a starting point. Never had anyone turn me away though.
 
The absolute worst way to start car buying negotiations is by telling them what you want your payments to be.

Well I told them what I wanted and just said that I had to be under XXX/mo or it wasnt worth my drive up there.
I didnt realize that was a bad thing.
 
Good write up.
Ive had some good car buying experiences, and some dang crap ones
One of the crap ones I think I posted here when the site first launched. It involved me telling them what I had to have (specifically the monthly payment), and they were all gung-ho. When I got there they pulled out the numbers and it was 50% higher than I said I needed to be at. What the crap? Then the manager didnt want to accept that his 'salesman' had told me one thing and then drastically changed by the time I got there.
As others have eluded to, this is a poor way to go about it. Do the math for yourself and tell them the price you need. Price of vehicle after all rebates/discounts, interest rate, cash down/trade value, and loan term will determine your monthly payment. Don't leave them any variables to play with!
 
Remember any trade is a separate transaction from the car purchase, often you can get a better price elsewhere.
 
I'll pay 2500.00 over and the deal is done.
Yes, I'm sure you get the price you want.
I spent 20 years as the manager the salesmen went to. I also did finance as well. The story at Keffer is all too common and disgusts me as a car professional but there are a lot of dealers that operate this way.

For those who want to know......
A new car dealer makes an average of $500-$800 on a new car(luxury vehicles higher) when working from invoice. In the last day or 2 of the month, if a sales goal from the manufacturer is close, you can get a new car for $500 under invoice/cost. (This includes all factory rebates to the consumer as well as the dealer rebates (called consumer cash or dealer cash). There are times that the manufacture's finance company offers either/or cash/rate deals to entice. e.g. 1.9% for 60 months OR $1000 cash back if financed thru (VW Credit, Hyundai Credit, etc). So, if you write a check, you would lose this rebate IF it is truly being offered (some dealers lie and the finance rebates are posted for the consumer to see to lure you in. IF you want to pay cash, take the financing with the $1000 rebate and pay off the entire loan with the first payment. You pay cash and get the rebate. Win/win.

Those aftermarket add-ons are a scam. That fabric shield, rust proof, decor packages that the dealer adds on and marked up 5x the cost are nothing more than a profit center. If "all" their cars have it then tell them to trade for one without the package or walk out. Their "cost" of $422 probably really costs $120 and if you have no need for it, why pay for it. Thank them and walk out.

On new cars, the dealer gets additional cash from the manufacturer if he hits certain sales goals. e.g. If a dealer sells 50 Hyundai Sonatas in the month, he may get $300 or $500 PER CAR SOLD back from the company. So, he'll get a check for $25,000 for selling 50 Sonatas @ $500 each. He could also get $750 per new car back if he sells 100 new cars for the month. So, 100 cars at $750 equals $75,000 back from the manufacturer. However, if they don't hit the number (50 or 100 or whatever) then he gets nothing. That's why dealers will take a loss on a new car on the last day if they are 5 short of their goal. They'd rather lose $500 each on the last 5 cars ($2500) to get a check back for $50,000 or $75,000.
The larger volume dealers get more back per car than the smaller dealers. It's called a stair step program. e.g. If you sell 30 Sonatas, you get back $300 per car. If you sell 40 Sonatas, you get back $400 per car and if you sell 50+ Sonatas, you get back $500 per car sold. So, the bigger volume dealers can (and do) sell the same car for cheaper especially during the last 2 days of the month.

Used cars are another animal. Dealers make their money on used cars and make no money on new cars. The dealer wants to make $2500 on a used car that they have less than 30 days. They'll mark it up $4000 and come down $1500 for their $2500 profit. From 31 to 45 days old, they want $2000 per car, profit. If a unit is +45 days old they'll take $1500 profit. The guy I quoted above said he offers $2500 and calls it a day. The dealer loves him. Max profit with no hassle. Do they take less? Yes, depending of the time of month you go in. Like all departments, the used car department has managers that get bonuses based on volume and average per sale. They may get a $5000 bonus if they sell 100 cars retail (not wholesale) on top of their profit percentage, then they will deal the last few days of the month to make their goal/bonus. Go in on the 10th and they will stick at their price but go in on the last day of the month and you may get the same car for $1500 less if they are close to their goal. The goal for an aggressive store is $2000 per used car for front end profit. Most well run stores hit this goal.

Yes, we love payment buyers. We can steer the buyer to cars that get the most profit for the payment desired plus we know we can bump someone $15-$20 on the payment. This type of sale the salesman is in control, not the buyer. Payment buyers get the worst deals.

Back end profit on cars is another category and can be discussed in another post if anyone is interested. This profit is from after you agree on the sales price and move to the business office.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I'm sure you get the price you want.
I spent 20 years as the manager the salesmen went to. I also did finance as well. The story at Keffer is all too common and disgusts me as a car professional but there are a lot of dealers that operate this way.

For those who want to know......
A new car dealer makes an average of $500-$800 on a new car(luxury vehicles higher) when working from invoice. In the last day or 2 of the month, if a sales goal from the manufacturer is close, you can get a new car for $500 under invoice/cost. (This includes all factory rebates to the consumer as well as the dealer rebates (called consumer cash or dealer cash). There are times that the manufacture's finance company offers either/or cash/rate deals to entice. e.g. 1.9% for 60 months OR $1000 cash back if financed thru (VW Credit, Hyundai Credit, etc). So, if you write a check, you would lose this rebate IF it is truly being offered (some dealers lie and the finance rebates are posted for the consumer to see to lure you in. IF you want to pay cash, take the financing with the $1000 rebate and pay off the entire loan with the first payment. You pay cash and get the rebate. Win/win.

Those aftermarket add-ons are a scam. That fabric shield, rust proof, decor packages that the dealer adds on and marked up 5x the cost are nothing more than a profit center. If "all" their cars have it then tell them to trade for one without the package or walk out. Their "cost" of $422 probably really costs $120 and if you have no need for it, why pay for it. Thank them and walk out.

On new cars, the dealer gets additional cash from the manufacturer if he hits certain sales goals. e.g. If a dealer sells 50 Hyundai Sonatas in the month, he may get $300 or $500 PER CAR SOLD back from the company. So, he'll get a check for $25,000 for selling 50 Sonatas @ $500 each. He could also get $750 per new car back if he sells 100 new cars for the month. So, 100 cars at $750 equals $75,000 back from the manufacturer. However, if they don't hit the number (50 or 100 or whatever) then he gets nothing. That's why dealers will take a loss on a new car on the last day if they are 5 short of their goal. They'd rather lose $500 each on the last 5 cars ($2500) to get a check back for $50,000 or $75,000.
The larger volume dealers get more back per car than the smaller dealers. It's called a stair step program. e.g. If you sell 30 Sonatas, you get back $300 per car. If you sell 40 Sonatas, you get back $400 per car and if you sell 50+ Sonatas, you get back $500 per car sold. So, the bigger volume dealers can (and do) sell the same car for cheaper especially during the last 2 days of the month.

Used cars are another animal. Dealers make their money on used cars and make no money on new cars. The dealer wants to make $2500 on a used car that they have less than 30 days. They'll mark it up $4000 and come down $1500 for their $2500 profit. From 31 to 45 days old, they want $2000 per car, profit. If a unit is +45 days old they'll take $1500 profit. The guy I quoted above said he offers $2500 and calls it a day. The dealer loves him. Max profit with no hassle. Do they take less? Yes, depending of the time of month you go in. Like all departments, the used car department has managers that get bonuses based on volume and average per sale. They may get a $5000 bonus if they sell 100 cars retail (not wholesale) on top of their profit percentage, then they will deal the last few days of the month to make their goal/bonus. Go in on the 10th and they will stick at their price but go in on the last day of the month and you may get the same car for $1500 less if they are close to their goal. The goal for an aggressive store is $2000 per used car for front end profit. Most well run stores hit this goal.

Yes, we love payment buyers. We can steer the buyer to cars that get the most profit for the payment desired plus we know we can bump someone $15-$20 on the payment. This type of sale the salesman is in control, not the buyer. Payment buyers get the worst deals.

Back end profit on cars is another category and can be discussed in another post if anyone is interested. This profit is from after you agree on the sales price and move to the business office.
Thank you. Awesome info.
 
When I was 21, I had a 2006 Rsx-Type s. Parents did help get me that car for graduation because I was going to swap motors in my 2004 from a base to a type s. It was my mom's idea and frankly I was against it because of the parts I've added (JDM parts, Turbo kit, Turbo supporting mods, 3" exhaust, boost controller, springs, etc.) and that meant they ALL had to come off but I was very grateful and with the money from most of the parts sold I used it to help buy it.

I've always wanted a Evo and Mistubshi had released the Evo X a year before. I emailed every dealership east of the Mississippi on a Octane Blue with aero kit and sound package.
Long story short I found a dealer in Ohio that had exactly what I wanted but it was a 2008 (it was 2009). MSRP on the car was 39,000. Which I picked it up for 30k sale price, not including trade in. I think I ended up paying 15k out of pocket, which I then later sold it for 26k 3 years later.


Funny story regarding all this was my really good chick friend loved road trips. So I invited her to make the drive up to Cincinnati and back. We left at 1am and when I got right in to Charleston West Virginia I asked her if she mind driving a bit.

"I would but I can't drive stick"- she said.
"Class is about to start" - I replied

She couldn't get it down quick enough for me to feel conformable to go to sleep. That's when I got use to drinking black coffee. I drove all the way there and all the way back. Got home at 9pm that night and was so excited because before picking the car up I had order a tunner and some other parts. After I picked it up, I washed it at a local car wash and then proceeded to take 2 and 4" blue painters tape to tape up the whole front bumper, hood, fenders. Stopped at a rest stop in VA and woman runs up me saying " are you ok?...you've been in a wreck!?" She points to my front of the Evo. I told her why I did it and she looked at me all bugged eye and just walked away.

One of the most fun cars I've ever had.

299508d1501433437-official-octane-blue-evo-x-picture-thread-sidesunset.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yes, I'm sure you get the price you want.
I spent 20 years as the manager the salesmen went to. I also did finance as well. The story at Keffer is all too common and disgusts me as a car professional but there are a lot of dealers that operate this way.

For those who want to know......
A new car dealer makes an average of $500-$800 on a new car(luxury vehicles higher) when working from invoice. In the last day or 2 of the month, if a sales goal from the manufacturer is close, you can get a new car for $500 under invoice/cost. (This includes all factory rebates to the consumer as well as the dealer rebates (called consumer cash or dealer cash). There are times that the manufacture's finance company offers either/or cash/rate deals to entice. e.g. 1.9% for 60 months OR $1000 cash back if financed thru (VW Credit, Hyundai Credit, etc). So, if you write a check, you would lose this rebate IF it is truly being offered (some dealers lie and the finance rebates are posted for the consumer to see to lure you in. IF you want to pay cash, take the financing with the $1000 rebate and pay off the entire loan with the first payment. You pay cash and get the rebate. Win/win.

Those aftermarket add-ons are a scam. That fabric shield, rust proof, decor packages that the dealer adds on and marked up 5x the cost are nothing more than a profit center. If "all" their cars have it then tell them to trade for one without the package or walk out. Their "cost" of $422 probably really costs $120 and if you have no need for it, why pay for it. Thank them and walk out.

On new cars, the dealer gets additional cash from the manufacturer if he hits certain sales goals. e.g. If a dealer sells 50 Hyundai Sonatas in the month, he may get $300 or $500 PER CAR SOLD back from the company. So, he'll get a check for $25,000 for selling 50 Sonatas @ $500 each. He could also get $750 per new car back if he sells 100 new cars for the month. So, 100 cars at $750 equals $75,000 back from the manufacturer. However, if they don't hit the number (50 or 100 or whatever) then he gets nothing. That's why dealers will take a loss on a new car on the last day if they are 5 short of their goal. They'd rather lose $500 each on the last 5 cars ($2500) to get a check back for $50,000 or $75,000.
The larger volume dealers get more back per car than the smaller dealers. It's called a stair step program. e.g. If you sell 30 Sonatas, you get back $300 per car. If you sell 40 Sonatas, you get back $400 per car and if you sell 50+ Sonatas, you get back $500 per car sold. So, the bigger volume dealers can (and do) sell the same car for cheaper especially during the last 2 days of the month.

Used cars are another animal. Dealers make their money on used cars and make no money on new cars. The dealer wants to make $2500 on a used car that they have less than 30 days. They'll mark it up $4000 and come down $1500 for their $2500 profit. From 31 to 45 days old, they want $2000 per car, profit. If a unit is +45 days old they'll take $1500 profit. The guy I quoted above said he offers $2500 and calls it a day. The dealer loves him. Max profit with no hassle. Do they take less? Yes, depending of the time of month you go in. Like all departments, the used car department has managers that get bonuses based on volume and average per sale. They may get a $5000 bonus if they sell 100 cars retail (not wholesale) on top of their profit percentage, then they will deal the last few days of the month to make their goal/bonus. Go in on the 10th and they will stick at their price but go in on the last day of the month and you may get the same car for $1500 less if they are close to their goal. The goal for an aggressive store is $2000 per used car for front end profit. Most well run stores hit this goal.

Yes, we love payment buyers. We can steer the buyer to cars that get the most profit for the payment desired plus we know we can bump someone $15-$20 on the payment. This type of sale the salesman is in control, not the buyer. Payment buyers get the worst deals.

Back end profit on cars is another category and can be discussed in another post if anyone is interested. This profit is from after you agree on the sales price and move to the business office.

I think you're confused on which invoice I pay from....
 
I used to work at a small town dealership. Life is hard, small town car dealing is too. Your bonuses are lower and you have to be honest. If Keffer ever tried those tricks here, after the blue hairs told the story, they'd be packing up and headed back to Charlotte. Those who rant and rave about profits and do their tricks and "deals" in the big high volume dealerships would do much better if they laid everything out on the table and gave the customer a choice. He may not buy, but at least he'll come back. The people here have less heart attacks and take much less blood pressure medication...they sleep better too. Small town dealers make car buying more like buying a new pair of shoes. You pick out what you like and they try to fit it. Sometimes it doesn't work out. Most times it does. If you're lucky, you'll be working for an owner who isn't concerned with building a dynasty. It's much more challenging being honest. It increases his self-cred too. ;)
 
Here's a process for online buying. It includes a second round where the better offers get to compete with each other and know who their competition is. I'm sure it drives them nuts: http://mb.clark.com/showthread.php?34680-And-the-process-has-begun&highlight=process+begins

One time I got a really pushy payment salesman. When he asked how much I wanted to pay per month, I told him zero. He was dumbfounded and I explained I don't WANT a car payment. I refused to negotiate this way and when he wouldn't stop I went off n him. The manager came running up wanting to know what the problem was. :rolleyes:
 
When I was 21, I had a 2006 Rsx-Type s. Parents did help get me that car for graduation because I was going to swap motors in my 2004 from a base to a type s. It was my mom's idea and frankly I was against it because of the parts I've added (JDM parts, Turbo kit, Turbo supporting mods, 3" exhaust, boost controller, springs, etc.) and that meant they ALL had to come off but I was very grateful and with the money from most of the parts sold I used it to help buy it.

I've always wanted a Evo and Mistubshi had released the Evo X a year before. I emailed every dealership east of the Mississippi on a Octane Blue with aero kit and sound package.
Long story short I found a dealer in Ohio that had exactly what I wanted but it was a 2008 (it was 2009). MSRP on the car was 39,000. Which I picked it up for 30k sale price, not including trade in. I think I ended up paying 15k out of pocket, which I then later sold it for 26k 3 years later.


Funny story regarding all this was my really good chick friend loved road trips. So I invited her to make the drive up to Cincinnati and back. We left at 1am and when I got right in to Charleston West Virginia I asked her if she mind driving a bit.

"I would but I can't drive stick"- she said.
"Class is about to start" - I replied

She couldn't get it down quick enough for me to feel conformable to go to sleep. That's when I got use to drinking black coffee. I drove all the way there and all the way back. Got home at 9pm that night and was so excited because before picking the car up I had order a tunner and some other parts. After I picked it up, I washed it at a local car wash and then proceeded to take 2 and 4" blue painters tape to tape up the whole front bumper, hood, fenders. Stopped at a rest stop in VA and woman runs up me saying " are you ok?...you've been in a wreck!?" She points to my front of the Evo. I told her why I did it and she looked at me all bugged eye and just walked away.

One of the most fun cars I've ever had.

299508d1501433437-official-octane-blue-evo-x-picture-thread-sidesunset.jpg
LOL, come on man, everyone knows you tape up your front bumper fter you've been in a wreck!

And just imagine how much fun you would've had with that car if it was a Subaru! ;):D Had a 13 WRX for 3yr and loved it! Turbo AWD is an awesome combination for sure!!
 
I got two 10 month old cars, 99 sable and 99 taurus wagon from Hertz car sales, $200 doc fee,
they wanted 8% but I told them I can't hear him, (my way of saying rate too high). 3.5% at credit union.
Two almost new cars for what is less then a new car.
Still driving them both. Hertz in no longer in Raleigh but in Charlotte, Winston and Greensboro.
The price you see is what you pay. check them out on https://www.hertzcarsales.com/


We bought my wife's mini-van from Hertz earlier this year. Most hassle-free car purchase we've ever made at a dealership.
 
We bought 3 cars from hertz...i'll second what cub said
I'll have to keep that in mind. My commute vehicle is just shy of 250k miles. I'm hoping to get two more years out of it, which would put it at 300k. Anything past that is a bonus.
 
She should check out the Hyundai Veloster too. More fun. Most deceptively roomy car I've ever owned. More fun to drive than the Ilantra. Not as ugly.
 
LOL, come on man, everyone knows you tape up your front bumper fter you've been in a wreck!

And just imagine how much fun you would've had with that car if it was a Subaru! ;):D Had a 13 WRX for 3yr and loved it! Turbo AWD is an awesome combination for sure!!
haha I kept going back and forth on STI and Evo but went with the Evo for price. I knew which ever I had I would love.
 
I'd like to get a 2017 F150. What month would be or would have been the best time to buy 2017 models?
Go on Saturday Dec 30th. Arrive at 8:30am. Expect to spend all day there because it will be busy. Try to have a specific truck picked out so you can control the process. Tell them no trade (if you have one tell them after you are done negotiating). Tell them you are ready to buy right then and there but you have an engagement at noon so no fooling around. Be prepared to walk and actually get up to leave if you feel you are being jerked around. If they let you walk then they are at their limit.

Why that day?
End of month goals.
End of year goals.
End of the model year trucks and cars.
Any and all rebates will be on the table.
They will be serious in trying to move every unit.
Salesmen have their bonuses riding on selling.
Managers have their bonuses riding on selling.
Manufacturers have their sales goals to meet for the year.
On that day all they will care about is moving steel, not gross profit.
Best day in the year to buy a car or truck.
 
Go on Saturday Dec 30th. Arrive at 8:30am. Expect to spend all day there because it will be busy. Try to have a specific truck picked out so you can control the process. Tell them no trade (if you have one tell them after you are done negotiating). Tell them you are ready to buy right then and there but you have an engagement at noon so no fooling around. Be prepared to walk and actually get up to leave if you feel you are being jerked around. If they let you walk then they are at their limit.

Why that day?
End of month goals.
End of year goals.
End of the model year trucks and cars.
Any and all rebates will be on the table.
They will be serious in trying to move every unit.
Salesmen have their bonuses riding on selling.
Managers have their bonuses riding on selling.
Manufacturers have their sales goals to meet for the year.
On that day all they will care about is moving steel, not gross profit.
Best day in the year to buy a car or truck.
Any chance of this working for a 2018 that's been on the lot less than a week?
 
Any chance of this working for a 2018 that's been on the lot less than a week?

Sure, you'll get their best deal at that time for that unit but the rebates will be a lot less (no factory support) and (depending on the desirability of the unit) the "need" to sell a brand new model isn't as great. You will get a good deal but not a screaming deal.
 
Back
Top Bottom