Competition Glock Shooters. I need some advice.

Teacher

Teacher

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Hi. I know you competition guys play with lighter springs in Glock pistols. I have my Glock 34 trigger feeling pretty good, but I'm getting some light strikes. I put in a Wolff 4 pound striker spring & I wanted to see if any of you guys have used a Glock .40 striker in a 9mm. It seems like a full weight striker with the additional 0.15" length of the .40 would solve my problem.

My other option is a Jager Lightweight striker. I hear they're reliable with a 4 pound spring, but the Jager costs roughly $40 more than the OEM assembly.

If you know of something better please don't hesitate to recommend. Just to let you know, I don't want to be restricted to Federal primers only. I like to shoot a wide variety of factory ammo. I'm not setup for reloading at the moment. I usually shoot WWB, Blazer Brass, Freedom Munitions & Federal.

Let me know your experiences with these & hopefully I can make a good decision without wasting a bunch of money. Thank you!!
 
Teacher said:
Hi. I know you competition guys play with lighter springs in Glock pistols. I have my Glock 34 trigger feeling pretty good, but I'm getting some light strikes. I put in a Wolff 4 pound striker spring & I wanted to see if any of you guys have used a Glock .40 striker in a 9mm. It seems like a full weight striker with the additional 0.15" length of the .40 would solve my problem.

My other option is a Jager Lightweight striker. I hear they're reliable with a 4 pound spring, but the Jager costs roughly $40 more than the OEM assembly.

If you know of something better please don't hesitate to recommend. Just to let you know, I don't want to be restricted to Federal primers only. I like to shoot a wide variety of factory ammo. I'm not setup for reloading at the moment. I usually shoot WWB, Blazer Brass, Freedom Munitions & Federal.

Let me know your experiences with these & hopefully I can make a good decision without wasting a bunch of money. Thank you!!
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I have an extended tip striker in one of my guns and it is ok, but not worth the money IMO. That is unless you are getting one of the lightened strikers. You can play with spring combinations with that and get a wide variety of trigger pulls.
My advice, dump the 4lb spring. Get on Wollf Gunsprings site and order a 4.5, and 5lb spring. They only cost a few dollars. Then try both. I have a 5 lb spring in one g34, and a 4.5 in my backup. They both register the same trigger pull...dont ask me why. Get a 4.5 and a 5 and experiment. I also advise the maritime spring cups. That might give you a little bit of less resistance as well for the striker. I have the blue Turbo maritime cups from Ghost Inc. Get those today while they have a sale...10$ I think.
 
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Had a 4lb in my 17, would get one light strike out of 300, 99% Winchester primers. Bigger issue was not fully resetting the trigger to safety lever after a while.

Just got some 4.5s all accounts are both issues should resolve, time will tell. Also got the maritime cup, and polished a burr off the slide stop that was rubbing the trigger.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk
 
I shoot a G34 in Production.

Grip plug
Dawson adjustable sights
Whatever connector you like best
Maybe a trigger spring if you've got one.

I never, ever mess with anything inside the slide of a Glock. The factory parts in there are the magic that makes those guns work, and I've been burned messing with those springs.

Do anything in the lower you want.
 
Starkherz199 said:
I have an extended tip striker in one of my guns and it is ok, but not worth the money IMO. That is unless you are getting one of the lightened strikers. You can play with spring combinations with that and get a wide variety of trigger pulls.
My advice, dump the 4lb spring. Get on Wollf Gunsprings site and order a 4.5, and 5lb spring. They only cost a few dollars. Then try both. I have a 5 lb spring in one g34, and a 4.5 in my backup. They both register the same trigger pull...dont ask me why. Get a 4.5 and a 5 and experiment. I also advise the maritime spring cups. That might give you a little bit of less resistance as well for the striker. I have the blue Turbo maritime cups from Ghost Inc. Get those today while they have a sale...10$ I think.
Click to expand...

You said "I have an extended tip striker in one of my guns and it is ok". Did you mean a Glock .40 striker or an aftermarket striker?
 
Beef15 said:
Had a 4lb in my 17, would get one light strike out of 300, 99% Winchester primers. Bigger issue was not fully resetting the trigger to safety lever after a while.

Just got some 4.5s all accounts are both issues should resolve, time will tell. Also got the maritime cup, and polished a burr off the slide stop that was rubbing the trigger.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I noticed the same thing. I installed the 6# trigger spring & the trigger safety wouldn't engage during reset. I took it out & put the OEM spring back in. Honestly I like the way the OEM feels better anyway. The 6# spring had a lot of drag & it felt really gritty.

Right now I have the Wolff 4 lb. striker spring & reduced safety plunger spring installed. Everything else is factory. I didn't think I would like the OEM Minus connector but it feels great. I like the wall before the break instead of the Zev style connectors that feel like mush. Now if I could just keep the trigger this light & get rid of the creep I'd be loving it, but I don't think that's possible with a Glock unless you go with an aftermarket trigger. I can adapt to this setup though.
 
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My standard setup for any glock i shoot a match with:

reduced power Wolff firing pin block spring
extra power Wolff trigger spring
OEM Minus connector
High polish on all trigger parts
Wolff stainless guide rod and whatever weight recoil spring suits the caliber

I absolutely leave the striker spring alone and will only use OEM. What little you gain in weight reduction you start risking failure.

Teacher said:
I noticed the same thing. I installed the 6# trigger spring & the trigger safety wouldn't engage during reset. I took it out & put the OEM spring back in. Honestly I like the way the OEM feels better anyway. The 6# spring had a lot of drag & it felt really gritty.
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make sure the trigger spring is installed like an "S" and sufficiently oiled. Under dry fire circumstances after initial installation I have the see a trigger not want to reset like you are describing. It is a combination of the light firing pin block spring AND the extra power trigger spring. All springs in a glock work in relation to each other.

I think OEM striker and extra power trigger yields a better pull than a reduced power striker and oem trigger spring. personal preference.
 
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th0m said:
My standard setup for any glock i shoot a match with:

reduced power Wolff firing pin block spring
extra power Wolff trigger spring
OEM Minus connector
High polish on all trigger parts
Wolff stainless guide rod and whatever weight recoil spring suits the caliber

I absolutely leave the striker spring alone and will only use OEM. What little you gain in weight reduction you start risking failure.



make sure the trigger spring is installed like an "S" and sufficiently oiled. Under dry fire circumstances after initial installation I have the see a trigger not want to reset like you are describing. It is a combination of the light firing pin block spring AND the extra power trigger spring. All springs in a glock work in relation to each other.

I think OEM striker and extra power trigger yields a better pull than a reduced power striker and oem trigger spring. personal preference.
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The trigger would reset but the trigger safety wouldn't engage every time. I fired 85 rounds of WWB & 25 rounds of Winchester 147 HP through it yesterday with no malfunctions other than the light strikes. I definitely had the trigger spring installed correctly. I double checked that it was seated properly after I installed the trigger assembly. I've been working on Glock pistols for several years & never had a problem with OEM parts.

Another thing I noticed is that with the 6# trigger spring installed the trigger housing wouldn't seat as easily as with the OEM spring. I had to take a punch & pull it down through the rear pin hole & then push the pin through. Maybe I got an out of spec spring & that's why the trigger had so much drag & felt so gritty. Who knows.
 
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Teacher said:
Hi. I know you competition guys play with lighter springs in Glock pistols. I have my Glock 34 trigger feeling pretty good, but I'm getting some light strikes. I put in a Wolff 4 pound striker spring & I wanted to see if any of you guys have used a Glock .40 striker in a 9mm. It seems like a full weight striker with the additional 0.15" length of the .40 would solve my problem.
Click to expand...

Missed your initial inquiry. No, I would not do that. Glock uses the same striker spring in ALL models. If the strikers are different in size you may be asking for more trouble, again for a minimal gain in trigger weight reduction.
 
Teacher said:
The trigger would reset but the trigger safety wouldn't engage every time. I fired 85 rounds of WWB & 25 rounds of Winchester 147 HP through it yesterday with no malfunctions other than the light strikes.
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Sounds like your extra power trigger spring was overcoming the reduced power striker spring.

Teacher said:
Another thing I noticed is that with the 6# trigger spring installed the trigger housing wouldn't seat as easily as with the OEM spring. I had to take a punch & pull it down through the rear pin hole & then push the pin through. Maybe I got an out of spec spring & that's why the trigger had so much drag & felt so gritty. Who knows.
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Strange. What maker of the spring in question?
 
Teacher said:
It was a Wolff.
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Very weird.
Only thing i can think of that would prevent the trigger housing from seating easily is a connector that is not fully seated or a trigger bar sitting outside of the connector when you are replacing the housing.
If you ever figure out what is causing that do share.
 
Here's why I'm trying to keep this trigger setup feeling the same. This is a 10 shot group I fired yesterday, standing from 30 yards with 115 gr. WWB. This is probably the best group I've ever shot. It measures 1-1/16".

20170703_165530.jpg
 
th0m said:
Very weird.
Only thing i can think of that would prevent the trigger housing from seating easily is a connector that is not fully seated or a trigger bar sitting outside of the connector when you are replacing the housing.
If you ever figure out what is causing that do share.
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I had the connector fully seated & the trigger bar was definitely flush against the connector. The trigger housing was just barely above the rear pin hole. Like maybe 1/16" to 1/32". I think maybe the spring was causing the cruciform to push the trigger bar outwards. The spring looks fine. Here's a pic.

1.jpg
2.jpg
 
FlatFender said:
30 yards, or 30 feet?
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30 yards. Like I said, best group I've ever shot. I probably got lucky & couldn't do it again. lol

Here's another one I shot from the same distance, same ammo, etc. It's a little bigger but not bad. Measures about an 1 1/2". It's only a 5 shot group though.

I'll admit I usually shoot anywhere from 3" to 5 " groups at 25/30 yards. I was focused yesterday trying to get my sights adjusted & I just fell into the groove after about 50 rounds downrange. I was pretty proud of those 2.

new.jpg
 
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The effect the striker spring has on the trigger pull weight is tiny. Put a stock one back in and don't mess with it.

Source: put in a lightened Ghost striker spring, had it crap out in the middle of a match. Put a stock Glock one back in (thanks @bigfelipe) and couldn't tell the difference.

The reason you were able to shoot so accurately the other day was that you shot well. The gun isn't in some magical feng shui configuration of optimal accuracy. You're just learning to shoot. Don't get too attached to the gear. It's just a tool.
 
Ben B said:
The effect the striker spring has on the trigger pull weight is tiny. Put a stock one back in and don't mess with it.

Source: put in a lightened Ghost striker spring, had it crap out in the middle of a match. Put a stock Glock one back in (thanks @bigfelipe) and couldn't tell the difference.

The reason you were able to shoot so accurately the other day was that you shot well. The gun isn't in some magical feng shui configuration of optimal accuracy. You're just learning to shoot. Don't get too attached to the gear. It's just a tool.
Click to expand...

This is a group I shot the same day with my stock Vickers 17 at 25 yards with the same ammo . The trigger may not help you perform better but it helped me. I do believe the OEM parts are more reliable though. You can't really deny it, but I'm confident there's a combination of aftermarket parts out there that will perform. There are too many professional shooters with modified Glocks that don't malfunction for me to believe otherwise.

I did order an OEM Minus Connector for the 17 yesterday though. Hopefully that will help tighten those groups up some.

20170703_193837.jpg
 
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