Damned evap canister purge valve, again... sorta

Jayne

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Last year we (and by 'we' I mean @Short Fuse ) found that some rodents had eaten through the evap canister on my pickup. Damed rodents. As part of troubleshooting the P0449 code I replaced all the bits that usually go with it, the solenoid, the purge valve, etc.

Check engine came on with the same code again this week, and it came on instantly after resetting. Something was actually bent hard. I couldn't think what since everything was less than a year old, but when I crawled under there I found this:

evap_canister_wire_fix_try_1_1 (1).jpg

Guess the weight of the harness itself fatigued the wires and they just broke off. I tried to repair that connector today but there is just not enough wire left on the end to solder to. Ordered what looks like the right connector from ebay and will try again.

The real part is part of a harness, and it's not just the expense of it but also the fact that the other end is on top of the damn gas tank. If I can't repair this, then maybe the tank has to come down? I dunno yet, let's see if I can fix this one first.
 
Remove the connector by pulling out on the red tab. Look at the connector from the side opposite the wires and you should see a hole or holes next to the pins. Sometimes you can use a paper clip in this hole to unlock the pins and push them out in the direction of the wires. You should then be able to either replace the pins or solder the wires back on and reinsert them. Oh take the blue piece off before you try getting the wires out.
 
Oh take the blue piece off before you try getting the wires out.

I did take the blue thing off and try to get the wires out, it's pretty brittle and nothing obvious was popping them out. I can't work on it until next weekend at this point and by then my $9 part will be here.

Oh, and instead of trying to solder up under the truck on that thing, I actually put some spade connectors and sockets (or whatever you call the spade-goes-into part) on the wires and then built the connector part on the bench. That way I only had to make 2 solder connection on the reasonably long wires that were left and could just plug my 'repaired' connector in. Now that I have those spades in there I can just build another new one on the bench and not have to do any soldering/splicing under the truck. It's almost like I planned for it not to work the first time.
 
You can buy a pigtail connector from the parts houses. Splice the wires together, reconnect and your done.
 
Those things are the devil
 
All y’all... if you’re stuck with broken wires/pin connectors, please send me pics.
I have a pants load of connectors, pin removal and crimp tools.
I have done these repairs for decades, please don’t go through the crap I did to find mfg parts and crimp tools.
It’s a breeze if you’ve got the tools. Mine are collecting dust.
 
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Lucky you. I've been chasing a p0455(large evap leak) code on my colorado. I have replaced the fuel cap and the vent solenoid. Replaced the vent solenoid last Saturday and today the code came back.
 
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Lucky you. I've been chasing a p0455(large evap leak) code on my colorado. I have replaced the fuel cap and the vent solenoid. Replaced the vent solenoid last Saturday and today the code came back.

That was last year's code, a $500 fix when we found rodents had chewed up the canister along with some of the lines.
 
That was last year's code, a $500 fix when we found rodents had chewed up the canister along with some of the lines.
Ouch. I looked over my lines and had the canister out to replace the vent. So I need to verify voltage to my vent solenoid
 
Ouch. I looked over my lines and had the canister out to replace the vent. So I need to verify voltage to my vent solenoid

Need to watch the data on the fuel tank pressure sensor. Thatbwill tell you if you really do have a leak or a faulty pressure sensor telling the system it has a leak.
 
Need to watch the data on the fuel tank pressure sensor. Thatbwill tell you if you really do have a leak or a faulty pressure sensor telling the system it has a leak.
My fuel economy has been normal. I would think a pressure sensor would throw a different code. I'm by no means a professional mechanic . But I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully it's not the pressure sensor I dont want to remove the fuel tank
 
My fuel economy has been normal. I would think a pressure sensor would throw a different code. I'm by no means a professional mechanic . But I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully it's not the pressure sensor I dont want to remove the fuel tank
The pressure sensor is what is used to determine if a leak is present or not. When the evap system is trying pull the vapor, it is done by a vacuum to the canister and tank. If no vacuum (slightly, but present) is achieved at the tank, the pressure sensor voltage remains high.(ish). The pcm sees this and assumes there is a leak. After so many times, a code is set.

PO442, Po446, or PO456 says a leak of some degree, doesn't necessarily mean there is an actual leak
 
Light stayed off, although the scanner still showed a pending code... but then the wife took the truck in on her day off and got it inspected and it passed no problem. So, either it's cleared or they don't care about pending codes? Either way, the can has been kicked down the road for another 12 months. Look for my next post on truck evap issues at that time.
 
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