Dealing with baseboards when screwing gun locker to wall?

[MrBitey]

I have a SecureIt Agile 52 gun locker that I'd like to attach to the wall, and I'm wondering how best to deal with the baseboard offset that keeps the locker from being flush against the wall. Simplest solution would be to attach a horizontal wood board to the wall behind the top of the locker with the same thickness as the baseboard and then screw the locker into the board. Next simplest solution would be to cut out the baseboard so that the locker can be flush to the wall. Or maybe build a platform to raise the locker over the baseboard. This is in a walk-in closet, so I'm not too concerned about aesthetics. What would you do?

 

[GoWolfpack]

I would cut the baseboard away behind the locker. Keep the piece and reattach as/if necessary

 

[Schattenreiter]

Put a board behind the safe and leave the baseboard. Easiest plus you don't have to keep up with the piece you cut off.

 

[Catfish]

I used option #1. Use a board that's wide enough to be flush with the top of the safe

 

[Mirac]

I’d leave the baseboard and keep it from the wall. Then I would thru the years drop stuff back there ... never to be seen again.


Put the other board up high enough to prevent what I would do above.

 

[fieldgrade]

I’ve had the same safe in two closets in two houses. I just depend on gravity to keep it there.

 

[Windini]

Simplest solution would be to attach a horizontal wood board to the wall behind the top of the locker with the same thickness as the baseboard and then screw the locker into the board.

Yep.

 

[Pack72]

Simplest solution would be to attach a horizontal wood board to the wall behind the top of the locker with the same thickness as the baseboard and then screw the locker into the board.

I used this method with a storage cabinet. It also took care of the problem that the predrilled holes in the back of the cabinet didn't line up with the studs.

 

[contender]

Add a piece of sheet rock to the wall behind the gun locker. Cut it to fit the entire space that would be "open." Leave the baseboard alone.

Why sheetrock? A little extra fire protection. In fact,, many gun safes use sheet rock as their "fire insulation." So,, if you built a sheet rock "shell" to encase the gun locker,, you've upped the safety factor for the guns & stuff. A little extra never hurts.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

Cut the frickin' baseboard.

Baseboard isn't a big deal to patch, so don't use that as an excuse.

The purpose of a gun safe is to protect your guns. If you're going to enhance this by bolting it to the wall, then do it right. A flush mount to the wall will make it that much more difficult to remove.

Granted, no safe is 100% secure. To that end, what a safe is doing for theft prevention is buying you time. The longer it takes to access or remove your safe, the better the odds are that it won't happen or the perp will be caught.

If you offset the safe from the wall, you make it much easier to slice through the mounting bolts with something like a Sawzall or vibrating saw.

Cut the baseboard and bolt it up neatly to the wall.

 

[Snal~]

Leave the baseboard, shim the wall out with full sized plywood sheet (Same size as the safe, layers if need be) lag screw plywood to studs, lag screw or toggle-bolt safe to plywood.
Should be at least as secure as removing the baseboard and securing to the studs, but no removing the baseboard and no gap to catch and hold the "oh no's".

 

[Get Off My Lawn]

Cutting the baseboard clean is easy, put it on the back of a shelf. A couple of trim nails and caulk will make the cuts disappear.

 

[Timfoilhat]

Hang from the ceiling joists and screw it to the wall. All the security offered by mounting directly to the wall and the floor without the need for cutting trim, cobbled up backing plates or platforms. Also frees up space under it for ammo cans and stuff while protecting your guns from low level flooding. (I'm only semi serious in offering this alternative.)

 

[Flashpoint]

Any open space between the cabnet and the wall is just asking for a crowbar or whatever can be used to separate the two. Either cut the baseboard or use a full size backing board.

 

[BigWaylon]

You could make an upside-down U, the same size as the sides and top of the back of the safe are, out of baseboard. Flat (bottom) side out, and it would look like a solid board behind it, while being the same thickness as the existing baseboard.

 

[Tailhunter]

Cut the frickin' baseboard.

Thank you Chief.

 

[Dale Gribble]

Hell…just caulk it.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

Hang from the ceiling joists and screw it to the wall. All the security offered by mounting directly to the wall and the floor without the need for cutting trim, cobbled up backing plates or platforms. Also frees up space under it for ammo cans and stuff while protecting your guns from low level flooding. (I'm only semi serious in offering this alternative.)

Semi serious? Hell, this is a FANTASTIC idea!


Imagine burglars breaking into the house and finding that!

"Aw, $#*t! And we don't got no ladder, man!"

 

[GymB]

That model 52 will only hold 52 guns if they are derringers. I’d expect 6 or 7 long guns.
I’d cut the baseboard because I want the extra inch in front, if I wasn’t married I’d cut out the drywall and trim around the safe to get another inch.

If you don’t want to do that, then any of the suggestions for filling the space will work fine, but it’s not exactly a high security box so I might just bolt it to prevent it from tipping over.