Direct Thread Mount sticks to the barrel...

[Tim]

I'm feeling a bit dumb for asking this one, but it's been a rough week and just need someone to give me a solution. I built an F1 can with this direct thread mount:

When I remove the can from my rifle, the mount is not budging and the tube is coming off....so all of my baffles, etc. could come tumbling out. It doesn't' seem to matter that I'm really cranking down the tubeend cap connection and just going 'snug' when spinning onto the barrel.

What's the best way to get the end cap to behave?

 

[BigWaylon]

Antiseize on the barrel threads? Tighten end cap into tube tighter? Even use a drop or two of loctite?

or get some slots/holes milled in the end cap so you can use a spanner wrench

 

[bennnn]

I've had this issue, and lately I've been thinking about dropping two flush mount set screws 180 degrees from each other through the tube and into the end cap. I'm contemplating putting them most of the way into the end cap so they really have some bite.

What are y'alls thoughts on that fix?

 

[Tailhunter]

Antiseize on the barrel threads? Tighten end cap into tube tighter? Even use a drop or two of loctite?

or get some slots/holes milled in the end cap so you can use a spanner wrench

Anti-seize - seems like a winner.

 

[Bailey Boat]

Craftsman strap wrench w/rubber strap......

 

[Catfish]

Does the other endcap also screw off?
If so red locktite and forget about it

 

[Djstorm100]

Go shoot the firearm to get it warm/hot and then take it off. Also actually tighten just a tiny bit and then loosen it will work. Both methods have worked in the past.

Use this for future:https://www.amazon.com/Thompson-Center-Arms-Seize-1-44oz/dp/B00162MKRC

 

[Criminalcamel]

I had the same problem with a Form 1 Can. I threw a red silicone O ring I had in a drawer in the dead space before the threads begin and cinched it down with a strap wrench. Makes it a PITA to get off, but the can doesn't rotate off the mount now. Disregard if you are a mag dumper. It'll take some heat, but they will eventually melt.

 

[11B CIB]

You don't want it backing off when shooting; use some Teflon tape on the barrel threads. It'll keep it from backing off during firing and also keep it from sticking

 

[Tim]

great suggestions guys, thanks

 

[backwoodsshooter]

I'm feeling a bit dumb for asking this one, but it's been a rough week and just need someone to give me a solution. I built an F1 can with this direct thread mount:

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i676.photobucket.com\/albums\/vv128\/WNCSeabee\/DSC_1250_zpsuopobeif.jpg"}[/IMG2]

When I remove the can from my rifle, the mount is not budging and the tube is coming off....so all of my baffles, etc. could come tumbling out. It doesn't' seem to matter that I'm really cranking down the tubeend cap connection and just going 'snug' when spinning onto the barrel.

What's the best way to get the end cap to behave?

SDTA end cap? I had the same problem with the same end cap. Since I know its going to get beat up in some way shape or form, I just used a pair of vice grips. But learned a leather belt works without leaving marks

 

[BigWaylon]

Does the other endcap also screw off?
If so red locktite and forget about it

With most F1 cans I've messed with, you need both caps off and push the baffles out. They don't just fall out like my Octane, Warlock and Spectre stacks.

 

[ncengravers]

Drill a hole and use a spanner wrench.