Dissambley for restoration

lowcountry

lowcountry

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As mentioned in the "What Did You Do In The Garage Thread," I am ready to start working on my 83 CJ-7. I want to tear it completely down and go from the chasis up. I know this is going to take and while and I know it is going to be expensive, so I am prepared to take my time. Before I start attacking it with a can of PB Blaster and an impact wrench and through caution in the wind, what I should I do now before I want to kick myself later?

Here is what I am thinking:
  • Drain fuel tank and flush coolant out of motor and radiator (which are both in great condition).
  • Keep all hardware organized and labelled no matter what the condition for reference later.
  • Take detailed measurements of front clip to make fitment of a new body easier later.
  • A new wiring harness will be used, but I will keep the old one as a reference.
  • Take lots of pictures.
  • For the motor, what should I do to protect the piston walls? It spins freely now and I would like to keep it that way.
What else should I consider or any pro tips or suggestions?
 
Everything you have said is right on the money. I will add label everything.

When we used to remove engines for long term storage back in the day, we would first,
drain the old oil.
Fill the engine all the way to the top with mineral oil.
Spray all exterior parts with fluid film
wrap the engine in plastic.

Just make sure to drain the mineral oil and refill it when you go back up. And a good steam clean to clean all the fluid film off of the outside.
 
posting to subscribe.
 
Thanks for the advice. Hey @Elmo how are your motors stored?

20170808_145318.jpg

I will be lucky to actually start on it in a month, but it will be fun and worth it.
 
lowcountry said:
Thanks for the advice. Hey @Elmo how are your motors stored?

View attachment 18618

I will be lucky to actually start on it in a month, but it will be fun and worth it.
Click to expand...


Our engines don't sit very long after they are built. They are stored on a wooden or metal skid and depending on the engine, they are either standing vertically upright resting on the bellhousing end, or are resting horizontally as it would in the vehicle. They are wrapped in plastic. All of our engines are live run tested with the OEM recommended non-detergent motor oil. There is some residual oil left in the engine after it is tested and packaged for shipment. That's all that we do because as I stated, they don't sit very long at any of our warehouses across the country since we pull inventory from all locations when there is a need for one elsewhere.

If it were me and the engine was going to be sitting outside the vehicle for an extended period of time, in addition to draining the old oil and refilling the crankcase with new oil, I would just pull the spark plugs and install some plastic spark plug hole caps in the holes. Then, every so often, pull the caps and using an oiler with a narrow nozzle, squirt some oil down along and around each cylinder wall while manually turning the engine over at the crankshaft. But honestly I think you'll be safe unless you are going to let it sit outside for an extended period of time.

Also, Thank You For The Business!:)
 
Thanks for the info Elmo.

Hopefully I will get a little work done in the garage this weekend and be able to roll the jeep in. I start my first semester on my Master's Wednesday so my free time just got reduced significantly.
 
Got locked out of the house this morning so took advantage of not being able to do homework and cool morning to mess with the jeep. Pulled the hardware for the soft top off, removed back seat, and sprayed body bolts with PB blaster. I also vacuumed out the interior since I am trying to keep everything as clean as possible in the garage. For as little as I did, it was fun. Looking forward to a break in classes to do some more work. Not much to see.

20171105_101859.jpg
 
Not much of an update, but worked on getting the front seats out and some of the exterior hardware. Seat riser are good, but the sliders are rusting out. Thought about trying to reuse them, but replacements are available and would be stronger. I am keeping the hardware categorized as items are removed so I know what goes where. Going to pull the windshield frame and attempt to remove the windshield next. So far this project has been a great "get-away" and enjoyable.

20171218_104649.jpg
 
I used to frame off restoration show cars in the 90's.

  • Drain fuel tank and flush coolant out of motor and radiator (which are both in great condition).- I'd just drain them.
  • Keep all hardware organized and labelled no matter what the condition for reference later.- We used a bunch of paper lunch bags, mark them with a sharpie, then place them in boxes starting in the back. When you reassy, take them from the front.- lots of pictures with references to the bags
  • Take detailed measurements of front clip to make fitment of a new body easier later.
  • A new wiring harness will be used, but I will keep the old one as a reference.
  • Take lots of pictures.
  • For the motor, what should I do to protect the piston walls? It spins freely now and I would like to keep it that way.- We restored expensive Vettes, we'd do as Jasper mentioned, a squirt of oil in each cyl & spin it. You should be good.
  • Kill all the rust, it's car cancer
 
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