Dissapointed in Tul steel case .357

Jayne

Jayne

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Since I only use the cheapst steel case 9mm in my G34, I figured I would keep the tradition going and try some of the Tul steel in 357 in my Taurus wheelgun.

It fired just fine, and knocked down steel plates with AUTHORITY, but....

It was nearly impossible to extract, had to hold the extractor rod against a post and tap a few times to get them to come out. The primers also seemed to stick out after firing which would bind the cylinder and require tapping the cylinder against the aforementioned post to get it to release.

It was cheap at $12 a box, but I can't say I'll get any more of it.

steel_357.jpg IMG_0623.jpg
 
Yeah makes no sense in a wheelgun, since you wont lose brass like you do with a bottom feeder
 
I have an AR that refuses to run Tul steel case ammo. I have another that eats it up with no problem. The one that won't, I have tried several different magazines, loaded magazines to capacity, loaded magazines to half capacity, I've tried everything. Brass cased ammo goes through it like poop through a goose.

I've never tried steel case revolver ammo. But, my buddy and I bought a bunch of 9mm Tul ammo and we had several (about 20%) that would not ignite the primer in a striker fired gun, Glocks. We ran the same ones through a hammer gun, an old Browinig Hi Power, and they would go off. I guess they had hard primers and needed a hammer to smack the firing pin.
 
My 9mm AR loves the Tula!

I've not tried it anything else though.
 
Geezer said:
9mm Tul ammo and we had several (about 20%) that would not ignite the primer in a striker fired gun, Glocks. We ran the same ones through a hammer gun, an old Browinig Hi Power, and they would go off.
Click to expand...

That's why I don't run a lighter striker spring in my G34, even though it would make the trigger a whole lot nicer it leads to a lot of failures to ignight with the steel case stuff. Some batches I'll still get a 1% failure rate, usually in a match. I just grab that round off the ground and load it into the next mag and it always has gone off on the 2nd strike.
 
For the love of pete, just buy a Dillon SDB.
It's painful to watch you fight with BS ammo issues.
9mm brass is selling for $12 per K.
I will give you 38spl brass. The press comes with one caliber so get 9mm. I have a 38/357 conversion you can use.
They use the same primers and powder.
 
This is my first time even seeing Tula steel 357. Its like looking at something from another world. I can imagine it being hard to extract. Given how cheaply 38 and 357 can be reloaded, I recommend putting together a low cost reloading kit so you don't have to worry about that anymore.

I run Tula in most of my semi autos without issue. All of my AR's eat it up with no problems (just slightly less accuracy) and it shoots well out of my 9mm's as well.

Federal aluminum cased 9mm does sometimes stovepipe in my CZ75, but I think its loaded light and has some feeding issues. Steel and brass cased ammo run perfect in it.
 
Slacker said:
For the love of pete, just buy a Dillon SDB.
It's painful to watch you fight with BS ammo issues.
Click to expand...

I've got a press, dies, brass, bullets, powder and primers to load 357, it just wasn't worth setting up to load a box of 50 for a gun I won't shoot for another 3-5 years or more. Basically it was a $12 experiment in laziness and this time it didn't pay off.
 
RedneckFur said:
This is my first time even seeing Tula steel 357. Its like looking at something from another world. I can imagine it being hard to extract. Given how cheaply 38 and 357 can be reloaded, I recommend putting together a low cost reloading kit so you don't have to worry about that anymore.

I run Tula in most of my semi autos without issue. All of my AR's eat it up with no problems (just slightly less accuracy) and it shoots well out of my 9mm's as well.

Federal aluminum cased 9mm does sometimes stovepipe in my CZ75, but I think its loaded light and has some feeding issues. Steel and brass cased ammo run perfect in it.
Click to expand...

The aluminum cases are the only ammo my '75 doesn't like. It will do ok but I get a lot of cases not wanting to extract.
 
seen a guy who was saying his gun was having tons of trouble with the aluminum case ammo from federal. He was saying that the bullets weren't set deep enough and other stuff sizes were all wrong and what not. Said it had done something where it jumped so bad when the slide came back it got him.....to me he was limpwristing it and nearly lost it,either way he called federal and was raising all kinds of hell with them wanting new ammo. I'm sorry but if your gun is shooting something and its screwing up because your not doing something right don't say ammo is bad after its been shot and then want them to make good on ammo that shot
 
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probably the lacquer on the case doing it when you fire the shell it gets hot melts the lacquer and if not ejected right then it'll get cool and stick noting wrong with either just how it does tight chambered guns will have same problem if they are bolt action. Just take them out soon as you shoot
 
I didn't even know they made anything outside of 9mm, 40, 5.56, and 7.65. Of course, my knowledge of their available stock is limited to a WalMart education. I've had "good stuff" Federal 38 and/or 357M do this in my GP100, where I had to politely tap the extractor post against something to eject the shells.
 
eddie0225 said:
probably the lacquer on the case doing it when you fire the shell it gets hot melts the lacquer and if not ejected right then it'll get cool and stick noting wrong with either just how it does tight chambered guns will have same problem if they are bolt action. Just take them out soon as you shoot
Click to expand...

Proven false, time & time again.
 
Jayne said:
Since I only use the cheapst steel case 9mm in my G34, I figured I would keep the tradition going and try some of the Tul steel in 357 in my Taurus wheelgun.

It fired just fine, and knocked down steel plates with AUTHORITY, but....

It was nearly impossible to extract, had to hold the extractor rod against a post and tap a few times to get them to come out. The primers also seemed to stick out after firing which would bind the cylinder and require tapping the cylinder against the aforementioned post to get it to release.

It was cheap at $12 a box, but I can't say I'll get any more of it.

View attachment 5454 View attachment 5455
Click to expand...
"So what are you doing with the ammo you have left", asks the vulture?
 
Slacker said:
Proven false, time & time again.
Click to expand...
proven false?? I've shot a ton of lacquer coated shells the crap melts when you shoot it if your chamber is extremely tight like in a revolver then yeah it can make for sticky/build up in chamber I aint saying its running/dripping out. I've shot and cleaned out chamber from mosins enough to know that chit does melt. Yeah if you get it out semi quickly before it sets again it'll leave some once it resets it will go with case or least the majority of it. The taurus has more shells in it than a 5/6 shot other gun so the cylinder will cool quicker as it isn't as heavy
 
eddie0225 said:
proven false?? I've shot a ton of lacquer coated shells the crap melts when you shoot it if your chamber is extremely tight like in a revolver then yeah it can make for sticky/build up in chamber I aint saying its running/dripping out. I've shot and cleaned out chamber from mosins enough to know that chit does melt. Yeah if you get it out semi quickly before it sets again it'll leave some once it resets it will go with case or least the majority of it. The taurus has more shells in it than a 5/6 shot other gun so the cylinder will cool quicker as it isn't as heavy
Click to expand...

Take a spent tula, put a torch on it and wait for the lacquer to melt.
 
Whats happening is that the steel case is stronger/stiffer than brass. Because of this, it fails to fully fireform to the chamber walls, leaving room for gas and fouling to get past the case and into the chamber, causing the stickiness you see Eddie.
This appears to many, and has been called by many "melted laquer". For many years this was considered apparent, but recently testing has revealed it to be what I explained above.

Just regurgitating as I am no expert. But I have had many problems with steel cased Tula in one of my rifles, which I actually am starting to think was caused by a looser chamber. But just speculating.
 
Slacker said:
Take a spent tula, put a torch on it and wait for the lacquer to melt.
Click to expand...
take a piece of plain steel and put a bunch of thin coats of lacquer on it and torch it nothing will happen other than the lacquer burn off but put a flash of heat on it then stick another piece of thin metal to it and see if it isn't sticky just saying. Lacquered wood thats had a good coat on it for years is not and won't act the same as a newly painted piece. I've messed and played with all kinds of ammo and powders for years not saying I know anything but I have learned a lot and mostly is nothing surprises me much anymore
 
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