Drywall Repair

Les

Les

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I have removed some wood paneling that was glued onto Sheetrock and it has left the glue residue that is pulling off the paper layer of the Sheetrock in areas. I am looking for suggestions on how to repair this without replacing the Sheetrock. It is my understanding that once you get down to the brown paper that you will have bubbling issues if you just use joint compound over the areas.

Thanks for any help with this
 
If the paper is missing, you need to skim coat it with mud. I would give it a coat of Kilz first so the stains from the “brown” paper don’t bleed through.

If all the glue hasn’t been peeled off or the above done smoothly, it’ll look bad and you’ll wish you’d just went over the whole thing with a layer of the thinnest sheetrock available.
Just priming it will show where the fury paper was exposed and you’ll still see the patterns after you paint.
 
Tailhunter said:
If the paper is missing, you need to skim coat it with mud. I would give it a coat of Kilz first so the stains from the “brown” paper don’t bleed through.

If all the glue hasn’t been peeled off or the above done smoothly, it’ll look bad and you’ll wish you’d just went over the whole thing with a layer of the thinnest sheetrock available.
Just priming it will show where the fury paper was exposed and you’ll still see the patterns after you paint.
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This.
 
The stuff i linked to seals the paper so it doesn't bubble when you mud. I used it when i took the popcorn off the ceiling and it worked great.

Kilz after you've mudded/sanded to seal before painting.
 
Thanks guys, this is actually is where paneling was glued to the drywall to create a wainscoating up to the chair rail. We originally wanted to get rid of the chair rail but may just leave it to sort of give separation from the good drywall and the bad.

I considered putting up the thin Sheetrock over this but then I am going to have issues with door and window moldings etc.

The painter originally told me that it would not be a problem but now says this is going to be a difficult repair, I think I will start by telling him I understand that the price might go up and see if this entices him to fix it as described above with the sealer
 
Majicmike said:
Where are you located? If your around Raleigh we have guy that can fix it on the side.
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I am actually in Eden. The part that sucks is we just finished putting new hardwood floors down, the good part is the baseboard and shoe moulding is still off right now
 
Diablos said:
pull the chair rail and cut the drywall behind where the rail was. Pull all the bad sheetrock from the rail to the floor and put fresh board up. The joint will be hidden behind the chair rail.
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Since the base and shoe are off, this may be your best option. Even if you don't re-use the chair rail, you'd only have one more (longitudinal) seam to finish. Cutting, removing, and hanging sheetrock isn't particularly difficult. If you've got a pro who can mud & tape it, it's almost always worth the $$ (to me).

The amount of time you or the painter will spend "fixing" the glue damage will likely meet or exceed the effort/cost of replacing and having a pro finish the seams.
 
I agree but finding folks to do small jobs is nearly impossible from my experience but I will start looking
 
How do you deal with outlets in this DIY scenario?
 
Catfish said:
How do you deal with outlets in this DIY scenario?
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Assuming they're original, they should be attached to studs. Just cut new sheetrock around 'em. If they're cut-ins, they're a tad more trouble, but not too tough once one figures out how they attach tot he sheet.

Les said:
I agree but finding folks to do small jobs is nearly impossible from my experience but I will start looking
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Yep. That is the #1 problem these days... Still, it's easier to learn DIY seams than DIY skin coat over irregular glue damage!!

Just jump in. What could go wrong? :)
 
Windini said:
Assuming they're original, they should be attached to studs. Just cut new sheetrock around 'em. If they're cut-ins, they're a tad more trouble, but not too tough once one figures out how they attach tot he sheet.


Yep. That is the #1 problem these days... Still, it's easier to learn DIY seams than DIY skin coat over irregular glue damage!!

Just jump in. What could go wrong? :)
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YEAH I have said that more than once. The biggest issue I have right now is time. The painter is working and has most all ceilings done and though I feel pretty good about being able to do it I know how much I will over think it which will send me right down the Rabbit hole.
 
Am I understanding that the glue is lumpy and you need to remove it? If that's the case you should be able to sand it smooth without damaging the paper underneath. If it tore the paper off then a skim coat of drywall compound before priming.
 
The only issue with drywall replacement is I will have to remove all the moulding around 3 doors and 2 windows which is stained.
 
Les said:
YEAH I have said that more than once. The biggest issue I have right now is time. The painter is working and has most all ceilings done and though I feel pretty good about being able to do it I know how much I will over think it which will send me right down the Rabbit hole.
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Most painters can do sheetrock also - did u ask him/her? If not he probably knows someone.
 
hey if you need help with any sheetrock I can do it all just not as fast as I was before because of my leg but my quality is still the same
always got paid the most for any company I worked for, but small stuff is no big deal. just tell me what you need I'll read and see also
 
ok sorry read your post now this is an easy fix and not something that would take a lot of time to fix. I'm not sure where your at but if you're not to far away or don't mind paying for someone to come a ways off I can fix it for you easily
 
Les said:
I am actually in Eden. The part that sucks is we just finished putting new hardwood floors down, the good part is the baseboard and shoe moulding is still off right now
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eddie0225 said:
ok sorry read your post now this is an easy fix and not something that would take a lot of time to fix. I'm not sure where your at but if you're not to far away or don't mind paying for someone to come a ways off I can fix it for you easily
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Apparently he is in Eden
 
I am going to talk to the painter tomorrow as he sprung this on me on Saturday afternoon. I don’t know where you are in Winston Eddie but I might take you up on the offer as I would much rather work with someone from here on this forum than a complete stranger/crap shoot.
 
This type of sheetrock repair isn't difficult. Heck, very little about drywalling is actually "difficult".

Use a wide blade knife when applying the drywall mud over these areas. And do it in layers...do NOT try to go it all in one coat.

In fact, trying to get things "perfect" in one coat is probably the biggest mistake people make when drywalling.

Have patience...apply smooth, thin coats and wait until it drys before applying the next. Done properly, you'll have little sanding to do afterwards, in fact.
 
eddie0225 said:
done properly there's actually no need for sanding
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EXACTLY!

Dad HATED sanding drywall. (He was a carpenter.) I learned from him at a young age. It's time consuming and extremely dusty, which means even MORE time cleaning and prepping before painting.

If I have to do any sanding, it's very light spot sanding using a sanding sponge and never involves a pole sander. All excess mud can be removed by the drywall knife blade between layers, no real dust generated.

EDIT:

It's kinda like painting...you can save all that masking time by simply learning how to put the paint where it needs to go in the first place. I never mask around windows and trim, as a rule.

Well...except for things like baseboard when I'm rolling walls and ceiling, and that's just to put a lip of tape there to keep paint specks off the trim while I'm rolling. I've already edged baseboard and trim beforehand.
 
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well my dad started out as a plasterer and then when sheetrock started went to it so I grew up doing it as free labor and learned as a plasterer, not a drywall guy so I got whole wall right not just the seams of the joints he taught me right ans alweays said do it right and you won't have to go back to fix mistakes later
 
eddie0225 said:
well my dad started out as a plasterer and then when sheetrock started went to it so I grew up doing it as free labor and learned as a plasterer, not a drywall guy so I got whole wall right not just the seams of the joints he taught me right ans alweays said do it right and you won't have to go back to fix mistakes later
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I have never done any plaster work. Watching guys do this and make a whole wall look smooth and flat is pretty interesting!

And yeah...if you don't have time to do it right the first time, you'll have to find the time to do it right the second time.
 
RetiredUSNChief said:
I have never done any plaster work. Watching guys do this and make a whole wall look smooth and flat is pretty interesting!

And yeah...if you don't have time to do it right the first time, you'll have to find the time to do it right the second time.
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strips are a breeze compared to whole walls
 
Diablos said:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HandyMark-HM1001-BF/204361779

I use these to mark the drywall
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Never used one of those but I have seen it. I use this thing called a tape measure ruler. If you make a hole close to the inside of the box when you stand up the sheetrock you can zip cut or sheetrock knife inside the box then trim a little extra.
I suck at taping and muddling. Still haven’t got the hang of the angle for mudding.

You can do like the Hispanics do on jobs. Put the sheetrock up and knee the shit out of it to put an impression in the sheet. Then you can let the electrician try to repair the broke boxes or depth of box issues. Not advisable though.
 
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