EcoBoost F150

Wow, I would expect your gas mileage to be a little better. I get 14mpg towing a 14k 20' trailer with my Rmax 60 and under. MPG drops to 10 when driving 70-80mph on the interstate to the mountains.
Is your a 6 speed or 10?
 
Thank you for this post.

I've been thinking of making a similar trade for the same reasons. My '17 F250SD 6.2 gasser beats me to death. It mostly bothers me after 11-12 hours standing and walking on concrete. My wife all but refuses to ride in it, said "It's not quite as bad as a hay wagon". Bilstein shocks only helped the ride quality a tiny bit, but at least they eliminated the side-step I used to get across bumpy sections of interstate (i.e., I-85 anywhere near Charlotte). I've been thinking about trading for a 2021 F150 with the max tow package, but I don't want to deal with all the nanny stuff. Our Subaru Forester has a bunch of that stuff, but it's easy to turn off.

Also, I get 13-14 mpg in normal driving, and don't care what I get towing (14' dump trailer, up to 12,000#). The 6.2 has been cheap to maintain, and makes the truck shockingly quick for what it is. Maybe some better-riding tires will help when the time comes to replace what's on it.
12000# is a lot for a 1/2 Ton. Some of them might be rated for it, but anything near 10000#+ and its gonna suck.

Other than that, it would be great.
 
Ordered a 2022 F350 yesterday. First time ever "ordering" a vehicle. Strange and exciting! I really believe this is going to be the new normal. Ford has already emailed me stating that they have received the order from my dealer and will update me throughout the build process all the way to arrival at the dealer.
 
I’ve had a 450 and a 550 on order since August for work. The trucks came in right after Christmas. Now the body manufacturer says 2-3 months.
 
12000# is a lot for a 1/2 Ton. Some of them might be rated for it, but anything near 10000#+ and its gonna suck.

Other than that, it would be great.
Agreed.

My SD is technically rated for 12,500#, vs. 13,000# for the 5.0 or 14,000# for the 3.5EB with the max tow package. But the bigger, heavier truck with the longer wheelbase should be a lot less prone to a tail-wagging-the-dog problem.

But, I tow 12,000# or so about 15 miles, dump the trailer, then tow the empty 3600# trailer back; once every 2 or 3 months. Not far or often, but it saves my biz about $8k-$10k a year vs. renting a roll-off and paying someone to pull it. Plus, I can use the trailer for other stuff.

Somedays it seems like it would be worth having a less-capable (but properly rated) tow vehicle to have a better daily driver.
 
Agreed.

My SD is technically rated for 12,500#, vs. 13,000# for the 5.0 or 14,000# for the 3.5EB with the max tow package. But the bigger, heavier truck with the longer wheelbase should be a lot less prone to a tail-wagging-the-dog problem.

But, I tow 12,000# or so about 15 miles, dump the trailer, then tow the empty 3600# trailer back; once every 2 or 3 months. Not far or often, but it saves my biz about $8k-$10k a year vs. renting a roll-off and paying someone to pull it. Plus, I can use the trailer for other stuff.

Somedays it seems like it would be worth having a less-capable (but properly rated) tow vehicle to have a better daily driver.
Landfill?

If thats all you might get away with it.

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Ecoboost update. F-150 2013 3.5 ecoboost with 119K. Anyone seen my coolant? These things can drive without it right?

I noticed my fan cutting on and off more frequently however, my temp gauges showed normal with the dial less then half way. I opened up the hood and the coolant puke catch can was EMPTY! I had no leaks on the ground. A trip to Walmart for the orange stuff and it sucked down almost a gallon to bring it up to the right level. This was a month ago.

Last week, I went and checked it was empty again. Another gallon to fill it back up and at that point I began to search for causes. It seems these ecoboost 3.5s are bad for coolant leaks. Its common for the hose fitting out of the puke tank to leak, the water pump to leak, the puke tank fitting to crack, and then the 2 lines off each turbo to leak (most hard to fix). Also are head gasket failures that nuke the engine at $10,000-13,000 for replacement. On the turbo coolant tubes, its not the tubes but the rubber ring inside the fitting that the tube quick clips into.

I topped it off again and ran to Newbern to fish last Monday (45mins each way) and it drained the tank again. The only wet area I could find (I keep my engine bay very clean) was the driver's side turbo which means one or both of the two fittings, incoming and outgoing have failed. This failure is common on the 3.5's and I've come find out it is a complete and absolute PITA to get to especially without a lift as there are 4 fittings on the BACK OF THE BLOCK nearly against the firewall. I took it in today and they told me I was right about where the leak was and that the parts were $170 (I saw $32 and $38 online and you need 2 of each) and labor was $1020 so about $1200 OTD with tax. This was not surprising as there are a lot of videos on youtube saying this. I told him I thought it was just one side but if you are going to replace one side lets replace both since the failure is common, he pulled up the time estimate on the computer, and it had 4 hours for the driver's side and 6.5 hours for the passenger (it's got more crap in the way) OR you can do both for 7 hours.

So my beer, fishing, ammo, gun fun money is gone for awhile now.
 
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My kingdom for a paragraph break.

I have an F150, What year model is this?

ETA- I see my request has been granted.

The deed to the 1/4 acre will be in the mail later this year.
 
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My 2019 f150 ecoboost 10 speed is at the dealership 106000 miles. 9000 dollar transmission waiting to be put in. Extended warranty paying for it. But 12 week backorder. Cam phasers did 4 months earlier 4000 dollars. Extended warranty paid for 1.5 months in shop. Bought used in March 2022 really nice looking truck all service records. Traded in a perfectly good 2014 F150 5.0 for this newer piece of junk.
 
Any of y’all trailering with the 3.5L EcoBoost V-6? I’m hearing pretty good things about them. The most I would ever pull with it would be a UTV on a car hauler trailer.


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My buddy trailers his 20’ center console with no problems.
 
Ecoboost update. F-150 2013 3.5 ecoboost with 119K. Anyone seen my coolant? These things can drive without it right?

I noticed my fan cutting on and off more frequently however, my temp gauges showed normal with the dial less then half way. I opened up the hood and the coolant puke catch can was EMPTY! I had no leaks on the ground. A trip to Walmart for the orange stuff and it sucked down almost a gallon to bring it up to the right level. This was a month ago.

Last week, I went and checked it was empty again. Another gallon to fill it back up and at that point I began to search for causes. It seems these ecoboost 3.5s are bad for coolant leaks. Its common for the hose fitting out of the puke tank to leak, the water pump to leak, the puke tank fitting to crack, and then the 2 lines off each turbo to leak (most hard to fix). Also are head gasket failures that nuke the engine at $10,000-13,000 for replacement. On the turbo coolant tubes, its not the tubes but the rubber ring inside the fitting that the tube quick clips into.

I topped it off again and ran to Newbern to fish last Monday (45mins each way) and it drained the tank again. The only wet area I could find (I keep my engine bay very clean) was the driver's side turbo which means one or both of the two fittings, incoming and outgoing have failed. This failure is common on the 3.5's and I've come find out it is a complete and absolute PITA to get to especially without a lift as there are 4 fittings on the BACK OF THE BLOCK nearly against the firewall. I took it in today and they told me I was right about where the leak was and that the parts were $170 (I saw $32 and $38 online and you need 2 of each) and labor was $1020 so about $1200 OTD with tax. This was not surprising as there are a lot of videos on youtube saying this. I told him I thought it was just one side but if you are going to replace one side lets replace both since the failure is common, he pulled up the time estimate on the computer, and it had 4 hours for the driver's side and 6.5 hours for the passenger (it's got more crap in the way) OR you can do both for 7 hours.

So my beer, fishing, ammo, gun fun money is gone for awhile now.
Im having the same exact issue with my 2012 ecoboost with 118K. Noticed the fan running on high constantly, low coolant level but couldn't spot any leaks. Now the leak is making its way to the ground, guessing its the driver side turbo leaking at the fitting. I've watched the same YouTube videos, and Im trying to talk myself into making the repair. My plan was to replace the one coolant line that doesn't go to the back of the engine between the fire wall and the engine, and all of the fittings on the turbo. If your blend door actuator hasn't shit the bed, it probably will soon. My truck only blows heat/air out of the vents, unable to switch it to defrost, and the transmission shift issue at 1st and 2nd gear. I installed a catch can on my motor when I bought the truck used at 50K, and also drilled a small hole in the bottom of the intercooler, as they were known to hold water. The theory was they intercoolers were holding water, then ingesting a slug of water into the motor and locking them up.
 
I do worry about the cam phaser issue. I do not let my oil changes go past 5k, or 50% on the computer. I read there was a theory that running the oil up to 10K between oil changes may have had something to do with the cam phaser issue.
 
You guys have me paranoid about coolant leaks in my Expedition now...
 
You guys have me paranoid about coolant leaks in my Expedition now...
yea it is with any of the 3.5 ecoboosts. There is a bright side though, all the other leak points are easy fixes with parts sub $150ish. The exception is the leak at the turbos and the difficulty there is in accessing it as parts are cheap as well.

It all boils down to cheap fittings being used to speed up assembly. The 5.0s have a similar issue with their push-on fittings that have the o-ring in the fitting that surrounds the inserted tube.
 
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