Emergency Brake Pedal to the Floor

BlackGun

BlackGun

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I’ve adjusted the distance before touching a couple times but no better pedal on my Dodge 1991 diesel pick up. Brakes are ok.

I’m thinking its in the pedal assembly. Before looking for an assembly anyone know what in a brake assembly can lead to this issue. It keeps going further down with the years. Thanks.
 
Likely cable link. Cable stretch over time. Look for a threaded adjustment, either near the assembly inside the cab, or at the bracket near the rear axle.
Had a Ford 8.8" axle on my old 93 YJ. The adjustment was at the axle end. Looks similar to the threaded collar to adjust brake tension on a bike but obviously bigger.
 
This should be the place for adjustment. Try that, and cables stretch, so it may need new cables. Unless the return spring on the pedal weakens. You should never need to replace it 21291049_cwd_bca660215_pri_larg.jpg
 
Try adjusting the rear brake shoes first. I'd pull the drums off and inspect before anything though. The parking brake (what yall are calling the emergency brake) works off the rear brakes. When the friction material on the brake shoes wears, the less bite the parking brake has until there is no more. This is why adjusting rear brakes and maintenance on a drum system is so important.
 
Scrubber3 said:
Try adjusting the rear brake shoes first. I'd pull the drums off and inspect before anything though. The parking brake (what yall are calling the emergency brake) works off the rear brakes. When the friction material on the brake shoes wears, the less bite the parking brake has until there is no more. This is why adjusting rear brakes and maintenance on a drum system is so important.
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^^^ this. Some disc brake cars use a small set of drum shoes inside the rear rotors for the e brake. When you run out of adjustment at the pedal or in the cable, it’s usually because the e brake shoes have worn too much and need either adjusting or replacement.
 
Scsmith42 said:
^^^ this. Some disc brake cars use a small set of drum shoes inside the rear rotors for the e brake. When you run out of adjustment at the pedal or in the cable, it’s usually because the e brake shoes have worn too much and need either adjusting or replacement.
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Had to adjust mine within the last couple months. Pedal would go all the way to the floor (‘03 Ram) and not hold the truck still when you put it in gear.
 
Scrubber3 said:
The parking brake (what yall are calling the emergency brake)
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You could adjust that smugness down about six notches.



Scsmith42 said:
Some disc brake cars use a small set of drum shoes inside the rear rotors for the e brake.
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That's about the only way for an E brake to work with disc rears. But a '91 Dodge definitely doesn't have four wheel discs.


It's not likely to be a simple adjustment of the shoe contact point. Replace the cable. And redo the rears while you're at it. Buy a set of all new hardware with the new drums and shoes.
 
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The cable will not solve the pedal issue even with the park brake touching. The cables have been replaced in the last two years and parking break cable adjustments. Two years ago all hardware and complete components were replaced for the driving brakes.

The drums and shoes look fine. I have no parking brake contact until it almost touches the floor. That’s a very long push on the pedal. When factory new the travel was merely 4”. Now 10” to 12”.

I’ve spent in excess of $7000 on brakes for the truck in the last 15 years. But its going nowhere. I will be buried in it unless the engine blows. Hell of a brute except brakes. Tax value is $1100. Worth $20,000 to me.
 
You could have saved us all the trouble if you had put all that in the OP. At least I could have saved myself the embarrassment.

Springs maybe? That's all I got. If all the springs and hardware were reused when you replaced the shoes last there might be something corroded or worn out in there.

If contact isn't gradual and instead is all or nothing maybe the springs that pull the shoes away from the drums are so worn out there don't resist the e-brake pedal movement.
 
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The link cable on my '99 Taurus attaches to a bracket at the rear disks, the bushing on the cable rusted away causing a lot of slack.
I held it in place with vise grip and used Rectorseal 400 epoxy putty to replace the bushing.
 
The residual valve that maintains pressure on the drum lines is probably the culprit.
 
Things to check for the emergency brake:

Proper cable linkage connection.

Cable adjustment.

Cable stretch (part of cable adjustment).

Cable clamp intact and tight for the brake line on the frame near the brake drum/rotor.

That last one can sometimes slip by. If the cable sheath isn't clamped down like it should be, it can move when you apply your emergency brake. This can result in the emergency brake not properly engaging, or on the flip side of the coin, not properly releasing.
 
GoWolfpack said:
You could have saved us all the trouble if you had put all that in the OP. At least I could have saved myself the embarrassment.

Springs maybe? That's all I got. If all the springs and hardware were reused when you replaced the shoes last there might be something corroded or worn out in there.

If contact isn't gradual and instead is all or nothing maybe the springs that pull the shoes away from the drums are so worn out there don't resist the e-brake pedal movement.
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Sorry. I guess I had eliminated most by asking only about a pedal as the fault.

But you made a great point. When we did the brakes not every spring was replaced as the spring kit had more than just this truck so the tough as hell to get on and off stayed.

@RetiredUSNChief the cable sheath suggestion has me thinking now. That has not been checked. I’ll check it when I dig in next week.
 
BlackGun said:
Sorry. I guess I had eliminated most by asking only about a pedal as the fault.

But you made a great point. When we did the brakes not every spring was replaced as the spring kit had more than just this truck so the tough as hell to get on and off stayed.

@RetiredUSNChief the cable sheath suggestion has me thinking now. That has not been checked. I’ll check it when I dig in next week.
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I need to fix the one on the driver's side of my car. The bolt head on the clamp broke off. Either I need to EZ Out the broken piece (haha, I know...good luck with that) or simply drill/tap a new hole for a replacement clamp.
 
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RetiredUSNChief said:
I need to fix the one on the driver's side of my car. The bolt head on the clamp broke off. Either I need to EZ the broken piece out (haha, I know...good luck with that) or simply drill/tap a new hole for a replacement clamp.
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You know it'll be both of those. In order that you typed them. Oh the joy of a broken bolt..
 
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