For the Hell of it

KnotRight

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I bought a PSA 9MM lower last night. I built a 16" using their lower and bolt and have had no problems. The reason behind this purchase is I have a 9mm can coming in and want a pistol length barrel. What length barrel would you go with if you are adding a can?
The gun is going to be used mainly for home defense.
 
I bought a PSA 9MM lower last night. I built a 16" using their lower and bolt and have had no problems. The reason behind this purchase is I have a 9mm can coming in and want a pistol length barrel. What length barrel would you go with if you are adding a can?
The gun is going to be used mainly for home defense.

Personally...and this is just from an extremely limited field of experience...I would go with 7.5inch and building it as an AR Pistol. You are still getting the benefit of a longer barrel than on a standard hand gun, the addition of 4 points of contact with the firearm, the capacity bonus, and with a suppressor it will put the barrel length out to around 15-16 inches (depending on what you buy). I would think that would be an extremely handy self defense tool.
 
I’d buy one of the 8” PSA uppers, or 8” PSA SBA3 build kits.

My primary HD weapon is a 9mm AR with a 7” barrel and Octane 45. It’s a stocked SBR.

Finishing up a 4” AR 9mm pistol build with a recessed F1 can...but it’ll be a range toy and concealable truck gun.
 
I run suppressed 147gr Speer Gold Dots out of a 8 1/2” Ballistic Advantage are 1050-1065fps which is a very good velocity for performance and safely under the sonic crack level. Truthfully though the velocity city of a 147gr projectile only varies about 7-10fps per inch variance I. The barrels available were 5” to 10” range so I chose based on the barrel available and balanced it with overall length with suppressor. It so happens the 7” rail system I liked placed the muzzle device forward of the rail about right to run unsuppressed as well.
 
When changing out the muzzle break on the 7.5" 23, I had to remove the hand-guard to get to the backside of the break. Just wondering with a 7.5" barrel what length rail would you go with if you are putting a can on the gun? Should it be an inch shorter than the barrel?
 
BigWaylon, are the lower parts completely the same for an 223 and 9mm in the build kits?
For the most part. I know PSA includes a 9mm buffer with their pistol build kits.

I bought a standard lower build kit and a complete upper. So I had to swap to a 9mm buffer.

If I’d bought a full 9mm pistol build kit, it would’ve come with the lower. (I was looking at the kits yesterday and saw that).

Not knowing what lower you have, you also need to figure out mags. Glock mag lower? Standard lower with colt mag block? Standard lower with AR mags and EndoMag conversions?

But all the other parts ought to be the same.
 
BigWaylon, I am using the PSA lower (same one that I used to build the carbine, Glock). I was not sure if PSA lowers came with 9MM buffer or 223 buffer.
 
Personally...and this is just from an extremely limited field of experience...I would go with 7.5inch and building it as an AR Pistol. You are still getting the benefit of a longer barrel than on a standard hand gun, the addition of 4 points of contact with the firearm, the capacity bonus, and with a suppressor it will put the barrel length out to around 15-16 inches (depending on what you buy). I would think that would be an extremely handy self defense tool.
This describes my HD AR-9 that lives in my bedroom. It's a very handy length. I don't keep the can on it though. A red dot works well and believe it or not a SeeAll backup sight makes a good BUIS when rail length/sight radius is an issue, as long as there is some ambient light. The stray light from a weapon mounted light is enough.
 
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