Generator Electrical Question

Les White

Less is more
2A Bourbon Hound 2024
2A Bourbon Hound OG
Charter Member
Life Member
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Messages
8,733
Location
DavieCo
Rating - 100%
23   0   0
I picked up a deal on a 6500ish watt generator last week.

In my younger years I spent some time apprenticing to be an electrician - Dad thought it would be a good idea to learn a trade since my grades were so bad. So I understand the basic principals. Wiring in a transfer switch to the breaker panel would be no problem... but I don't have the time to do it right now.

My short term plan was in the event of a power loss to disconnect the main, turn off all the breakers, backfeed the generators 240V/30A output into a 240V/50A circuit I put in for the air compressor (40A 4 wire range plug) , then bring critical circuits online via the breakers. I know it's not the recommended solution, but it'll work in a pinch.

The generators 240V output is a NEMA L14-30r, and there isn't a L14-30p within driving distance at the moment. The generator head has two 120v "hot" outputs and one neutral, the ground is connected to the frame. One hot goes to each side of the 240v outlet, then then continues on to its own 120v receptacle, the neutral connects to all the 3. (wiring diagram below).

Here's the emergency power question, in lieu of the correct locking connector why can't I just get two 25A 120V plugs, some 10g or better SO cord, plug one plug into each of the two 120V circuits, connect the two neutrals together on a new range plug, then run the two hots to the two hots on the same plug and just plug it into the circuit I'm going to back feed into. I know it'll look a LOT hokey (like a reverse Y splitter) , but the theory is sound. I think the end result is the same as rewiring the generator to a different output plug.... but without the rewiring.

I'm pretty sure it'll work, if I was 100%sure I wouldn't be asking.
 

Attachments

  • 20180912_192110.jpg
    20180912_192110.jpg
    49.3 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Last edited:
Electrically it would work, however, I would be more inclined to remove the receptacle and plug and then splice the wires together with wire nuts and tape it up.
 
I couldn't find a 4 wire dryer plug to a twist lock adapter, so I ordered these. SUPPOSEDLY they'll arrive today.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NATX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then a male to male cord is needed to connect the generator.
Would this help? https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerG...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P11EQ1K8B97ANB65PRPP


I looked at the extension cords on Amazon yesterday. Selected the $47 next day delivery option and it said they would be delivered on Monday... 5 days later. Smfh...
 
Not legal, but I did exactly what you proposed on my mobile home 20 yrs ago. It works fine. But scares the crap out of power co workers.
 
You can also make 2 cords and plug them into 2 regular outlets. But make sure they are on opposite lugs in the panel.
Any questions. Call me I can walk you through it.
 
Please don't make a 'suicide cord'. Should you backfeed w/o the approved disconnect,
PLEASE PLEASE put a meter on the mains to verify there is no backfeed into the power company.
If the main breaker is off, the only way is to put a meter on it to verify no power will reach the grid.
 
Disconnect the romex line from your refigerator and put a male plug on it,
(black, white and the ground leads) now you can plug this into the extension cord direct to the generator.
I did the same for our gas furnace. After the power is back on I reconnect to the breaker.
 
Good luck. Everywhere is sold out of the locking plugs..... Which is why I'm proposing the alternate solution.
City Electric in FV had them in stock.
Please don't make a 'suicide cord'. Should you backfeed w/o the approved disconnect,
PLEASE PLEASE put a meter on the mains to verify there is no backfeed into the power company.
If the main breaker is off, the only way is to put a meter on it to verify no power will reach the grid.
Thankfully I had generator disconnect installed when we built the house.
 
This will only partially work. The breaker for the air compressor connects to one leg of the 240 main inside the breaker panel. This means when back feeding, the breaker essentially converts the generators 240 back into 120, which is fine, it'll still power anything on that leg of the panel, but anything on the other leg won't get power - like the water heater.

On top of that the "handyman" who lived here before put in some jackleg panel outside next to the meter that has breakers for the well pump, shop, dryer, and heat pump in it. (the original dryer circuit has a massive dead short in it somewhere - found that out the hard way - and rather than just replace the line, he ran a new one to the outside sub panel) I have no idea how it's fed or connects to the main. If the heat pump is on that sub panel, then WTF is on the inside panel labeled FURN with a 60A breaker? smh..
 
Last edited:
This will only partially work. The breaker for the air compressor connects to one leg of the 240 main inside the breaker panel. This means when back feeding, the breaker essentially converts the generators 240 back into 120, which is fine, it'll still power anything on that leg of the panel, but anything on the other leg won't get power - like the water heater.

On top of that the "handyman" who lived here before put in some jackleg panel outside next to the meter that has breakers for the well pump, shop, dryer, and heat pump in it. (the original dryer circuit has a massive dead short in it somewhere - found that out the hard way - and rather than just replace the line, he ran a new one to the outside sub panel) I have no idea how it's fed or connects to the main. If the heat pump is on that sub panel, then WTF is on the inside panel labeled FURN with a 60A breaker? smh..

Probably the air handler on that 60A if it a heat pump. 60A for the heat strips
 
My current set up is a 12 gauge drop cord to the fridge / freezers. One to a power strip / surge protector for TV, computers, phone chargers, and one 3 end drop cord for shop fan and lamp.

I know it’s not professional, and looks awful lol, but it’s working fine. I spliced and cut the main breaker during Mathew, just like @noway2 says above.

I even unpluged the fridge long enough to cook, fried pork chops last night on a 750 watt hot plate. Cooking a pot of chicken and noodles now. When the rain clears I’ll grill.

Running my 6500 Predator, with my fathers bigger 12000 Duramax just on standby. Trying to save fuel, as no telling when we’ll get power back, so just running the small generator and getting by with the fan. Next year I’m hoping to have a professional done backup with propane.
 
Last edited:
I looked at the extension cords on Amazon yesterday. Selected the $47 next day delivery option and it said they would be delivered on Monday... 5 days later. Smfh...

When it shows up, call them and tell them it didn't arrive on time, either they will refund it or give you a credit.
 
It'll be hell to pay trying to fit #10 SO cord inside those 120v cord caps. Those things are 20 amp max and just not built for #10/30 amp wire. And that range plug that you pictured will work, but it's another pita to assemble and they're pretty much flimsy crap. That part however is do-able.
That 14-30P is what you need. In normal times lowes and HD always have plenty, that's a common cap. And even the 14-30 cap will complain with SO cord, that stuff is just huge. It's for exposed/harsh use like concerts where people are walking on it.
Regardless of whether you go with the two 120v caps or the 14-30, see if you can't get some #10 SJ cord instead. If you can't find that, I'd still get some 10-3 romex instead of SO cord to get you by. Not to mention SO cord is expensive. After the storm leaves and things go back to normal you can build a proper #10 SJ cord.
 
Last edited:
Myself I would be hesitant to comment on some of the above without seeing it in person. I feel your pain as I was without power 2 weeks during Hugo. The power cutoff switch for the power line was in my front yard for repairs and Duke Power would give me power for 5 minutes and shut it down over and over while doing repairs.

I would would use the generator as provided with plugs unless you have an electrical meter and some sound knowledge of electricity. One thing I caution is the amp rating of your drop cords and the length of them. Look for an embossed rating ex: 14/2, 16/2. Long runs will decrease the voltage at the appliances. Try not to go over 50 feet if possible.

Don’t overload the power strips. Lights take very little amperage, refrigerators once started are usually under 6 amps for bigger units. Forget trying to power the stove and air condition on a small generator. Most importantly I highly recommend not hooking anything to the breaker box unless you take all three wires lose from the breaker, neutral (white), and ground. You could wire nut a drop cord to the circuit wires from a cord from the generator plugged cord to the romex wire following the black, white, bare copper.

If you use drop cords feel the cords and check to see if they are getting hot to the touch. If they are warm you have too much amperage on a cord which is too small.

If you hook up to live circuits in a breaker box you risk killing someone working on the power lines.
 
Back
Top Bottom