Glock slide going too far forward on the frame? This normal?

Jayne

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Just noticed this today on my G34, the slide appears to be going too far forward on the frame by just a little bit. It's very evident when you put it next to any of my other Glocks, none of them have that little tab thingy sticking out past the back of the slide. They're all sitting flush.

Google doesn't turn up any answers, just a bunch of nonsense so maybe this isn't common or isn't a big deal?

It's got around 8k rounds through it at this point. Going to stop by the range today and see if it's still firing normally. Trigger, reset, barrel lockup, etc all seem totally normal, and it's not been fully dissembled in 5k+ rounds... only pulling the slide on/off and barrel/recoil spring out to clean it. None of the frame parts, striker bits, slide stop, etc have been removed.

IMG_1325.jpg IMG_1326.jpg
 
Need more pics of internals - that don't look right tho.
 
$5 says your slide lock (the part with the disassembly tabs) is in backwards. The flat side should face the muzzle and the "hooked" side should face the rear of the frame. See the image below:

glock-slide-lock-installation.jpg
 
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No idea if there is a problem or not, but just for reference, I checked mine and it is not situated like this. 1635 rounds fired.
 
$5 says your slide lock (the part with the disassembly tabs) is in backwards. The flat side should face the muzzle and the "hooked" side should face the rear of the frame.

I've never had that part out of it, but I checked and it's installed the way you've shown. It does have a little wiggle to it though. I'm going to swap frames/slides around when I get home and see if the issue follows the slide or the frame.
 
Someone cut a chunk out of the top of your slide for starters!

The sales guy told me that was the 'speed plate' and it makes the gun go faster. Works in concert with the accuracy cut in the top of the slide making the barrel stay cooler and therefore be more accurate. I mean, he wouldn't have lied to me, right?
 
I've never had that part out of it, but I checked and it's installed the way you've shown. It does have a little wiggle to it though. I'm going to swap frames/slides around when I get home and see if the issue follows the slide or the frame.

Odd, I'll check my G34s when I get home and see how they look.
 
Ok that was, unexpected.

I took my low round count G17 and swapped the frames around. With the G34 slide on the G17 frame... things fit flush. With the G17 slide on the G34 frame... things fit flush. Wha?? Swap them back and the G17 is flush, G34 is not.

So it follows neither the frame nor the slide, but only when that frame and slide are together.

Put 150 or so rounds through it today, still 100% function with no weirdness. Perhaps it's always been that way and I've just missed it? I do ride my thumb on the back of the slide when I'm holstering out of some strange habit and I never recall feeling the little protrusion until this morning.
 
The problem is either with the rear portion of the lower barrel lug located too far rearward or the crossmember that functions as the slidestop is located too far forward.

But just for grins, check both parts to see if either is damaged.

I don't see anything being damaged, but there is play in the takedown lever piece. Might try swapping those between guns to see if it makes a difference.
 
The problem is either with the rear portion of the lower barrel lug located too far rearward or the crossmember that functions as the slidestop is located too far forward.

But just for grins, check both parts to see if either is damaged.
Dang, he knows Glocks, too.

Always glad when Tuner weighs in. :)
 
After taking the G17 and G34 apart and moving parts around, I'm pretty sure it's the slide stop (part #21 on the diagram) wearing in to the spot on the bottom of the barrel lug where it causes the lockup to happen.

I put my mostly unfired threaded barrel in to the G34 and leaving everything else the same it locks up tight and in exactly the spot you would expect. Any combo of parts works and locks up, except that the two worn parts (stop and original barrel) just do it slightly further forward of everything else.

Basically those two parts have worn together and are moving out of spec? I assume they're like brake pads and rotors, if you replace only one the wear on the one you didn't replace quickly wears a pattern into the new component? So replacing part #21 wouldn't do it for very long.

I'll keep an eye on it but it seems like it's not a big deal as long as the stop still stops the slide in a spot the trigger mechanism can reach the plunger safety and pull/release the striker.
 
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