Help with Scope Terminology

BlackGun

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I need to know what this term means:

1/8 MOA (50” @100 yards on both wind and elevation)
 
So to make it simple, inches and feet are linear units of measure. A inch is a inch no matter how far that inch is from you.

MOA or Minute of Angle, is Angular units of measure. Like all angles is relative to its self like inches are. 1 MOA is always 1 MOA no matter how far it is from you, just like a inch is.

When you ask how big a MOA is in inches you have to know the scale between the two measurements. To keep it relative to reality, 1 MOA at 100yds = 1.047" in diameter. Keep in mind this is a scale. So 1 MOA twice as far away (200yds) is twice as big (2.094") and so on it goes, both ways. At 50yds the diameter of 1 MOA is .5235"

The 1/8 click aspect is the divider the manufacture wants to slice up the MOA with. So in this case the slicer is 8. IF you look at 1/4 MOA scopes the slicer is 4. Meaning each click moves the point of aim 1/8th, or 1/4, or 1/3, or 1/2 or 1 MOA away from its current location, based on the manufacture spec's.

So you can now figure out how much travel each click does at any distance.
 
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The 50” at 100 yards is the one I don’t get.

Everyone here has answered correct.
But, this can be a confusing subject.
It's already been stated in different way~s,,,,
I'll add, 1/8 click = means 8 clicks for ONE full MOA.
So if the scope is advertised as having 50" , then that is 400 Total Clicks from one side of the turret ( Elevation or Windage ) being run to the stop ( and NOT with a Pipe Wrench).
Why from one side ( one at a time, by the way)?
Because of the curvature of the scope tube.
One axis has to be in or close to the middle, otherwise you'll not get full travel from the erector tube.

I know Grim knows the following, but I'm split off from his description of center.
If the erector tube is in the middle ( or centered ) you should be able to obtain 200 clicks to either side, or 400 total from one side.
25" Up / down & 25" side to side ( 200 clicks ) will or should put the scope AT Mechanical Center.

So, what I'm sharing is, Mechanical Center is NOT necessarily Optical Center.
It should be but if glass have moved internally or other issues are at hand than an Optical & Mechanical center may not be the same.
Ideally, having a scope at or starting from Optical / Mechanical is a very good thing because you can judge the firearms condition ( meaning if things are straight / shooting straight ) while ruling out the optic as a possible problem, or not.



Safe Shooting
 
Thanks for the responses. I have a few more questions but I need to watch above video and look at ballistic data before I ask some of the other questions I have.
 
A few more question given the following:

1. I set the CZ455 22LR up with a Mueller 6-18x44 with high Talley scope mounts.
2. It took a number of turns to get a zero. Not sure how many but my zero is 50 yards (I think) and I moved about 70 clicks or less. Given 1/8 per click, 50” at 100 yards, should I have added 20MOA. I thought the high Mount would be enough. Do I have enough to go 200 yards with 40gr, 1255fps ammo if I move zero to 100.
3. What should I do for calculations after 100 yards?
 
Whatever your scopes adjustments are advertised.......they should double with range. Example..... If your scope has 1/8" adjustment at 100 yards.......double it. It will have 1/4" adjustment per click at 200, 3/8" at 300 and so on.......
 
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Whatever your scopes adjustments are advertised.......they should double with range. Example..... If your scope has 1/8" adjustment at 100 yards.......double it. It will have 1/4" adjustment per click at 200, 3/4" at 300 and so on.......

3/8" per click @ 300 yds, but the idea is spot on.
 
I almost feel like I should make all my scopes the same. Any suggestions for a zero distance for a 22lr if I shoot anywhere from 25 to 150 yards?
 
You can zero them at the same yardage, but you'll either have to hold under or over to hit what you're aiming at.
ballistics500011.jpg
Rimfire ballistics chart. As you can see 22LR is becomes fairly useless quite rapidly after 100 yards. If you were zeroed at 50, you'd need to hold over nearly 20" to hit the same spot at 150. That being said, if you're going to shoot at 50 all the time, zero at 50. Just remember your hold over if you try to hit between 50 and 100.
 
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