I'm About To Sell This.........

With the 4.0 engine....4.11 ring&pinion is about right for 33"-35" tires......unless its off road only. You can put around town at 50-55 mph while barely touching the gas. At 70 mph or so it turned about 2500 rpms.
I meant a difference in the engines as far as felt power.
 
I think @Qball and I share DNA lol.

I downgraded from a 2000 to a 2015. My TJ sucked for trips with a lift and big tires. Hell it sucked for anything over 50 lmao.

But we have family in Murphy. The Jeep was always a no go because it added so much time and expense. Plus a certain 90s era element of “can it make it over 8 hours?”

The 2015 JK?

Seats SUCK. TJ seats are better. New Jeep seats are made for what must be a 500lb human. And 5’9” 200lbs, I feel tiny and the lumbar is non existent. Tj seats cradled me.

Corny but my girl and I sit farther apart. Don’t like it. In the tj we were all up in each other’s business even if we were mad lol.

The jk v6 is rowdy and raucous without actually delivering on all that noise and vibration. Adequate at best. I rode in a supercharged and built version with 37’s and it still felt a little puny. I miss the tractor like feeling of the in-line 4.0 that never needed to get over 4000 rpms lol

And heavy! It’s only hope is an LS.

The Jk also has a ton of “Jeep things” that people disregard that the tj didn’t have or at least justified with a lower cost of entry. My 2015 has more leaks than the 2000. The heater is nowhere near as good and a common fail point. The interior makes 90s chevys feel less plastic. The gauges are the worst I’ve seen. Ever. Chrysler radio (despite being the top o the line) is sub par and clunky.

But I love it ‍♂️
 

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Oh and I want that rubi bumper. I’m about to saw the ends off mine and cap them. For some reason jk bumpers and plastic fenders look enormous and brittle. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but I like flat steel/aluminum fenders and stubby bumpers. ‍♂️
 
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Just got the new KM3s mounted and balanced to my new wheels today. The wheel and tire in the pic is just sitting in front of the stock rear tire. It's not installed on the Jeep.

These are 32x11.5/75R15. I'm not planning on lifting this Jeep. The bigger tires will be sufficient. Did a little research and discovered they won't rub at full stop steering but I'll add spacers if I need to.

Not planning on climbing any rocks so I should be good as far as the front fenders are concerned.

@DesignMine I'm still having to drive my JK for a little while longer. If your friend in Ohio is still interested, tell him I'm still driving it locally but not much. It should be available for purchase in April or early May.
 
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Well, I think I've got all my parts in and ready. Now I just need to get the new hood and torque box painted and installed and the rest of the Jeep painted, then I'll be ready to start.

The first thing will be pulling the front diff and sending it off to get remanufactured. While it's out, I'll do all of the underhood work.

Then when I've got the front end back together, I'm going to pull the rear diff and send it off to be remanufactured.

The last items to be installed are the new 32 in. BFG KM3s with Mammoth wheels.

Taking it tomorrow to a full service body shop to find out when the body work can be tackled. Once that is done, the rest will be done here at the house.
 
I would have started this project earlier had it not been for an accident my son was involved in with his (my old) TJ. He's been having to drive my JK while his was in the shop. His wasn't damaged much but it needed a new grill and front bumper and the shop was backed up with work.
 
Well, I got my 2005 Rubicon back from the body shop last week. Looks really good.

Started to drop the front diff down so I could send it off, axle housing and all, to get remanufactured.

Good thing I didn't have a flat when I drove it down from PA earlier this year. I found a rounded off lug nut on the passenger side. It still had the faux chrome cover jammed on it to hide the damage.

Dealerships. :mad:

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Yep. Both are 6 speed manuals. Driving around town you don't notice much difference. But as soon as you start driving hills or mountains, or pulling a loaded trailer, it's very noticeable.

All you have to do is look at the horsepower and torque curves for each engine.

Besides, that 4.0 liter is a simple time proven OHV pushrod engine. Personally, in my opinion, it's the better engine for a Jeep Wrangler.
Well you can thank the government for killi g the 4.0 , they couldnt make it meet the new cafe standards. So away she went.
 
Would have had the front diff dropped out today but Mother Nature decided to intervene. I can't send it off to get remanufactured until next week anyway.

The head of the differential department is on vacation until the 21st. He's going to oversee the work. I'm going from a 4.10 to 4.56 since I'll be running 32s. 4.10 would work but I'd rather go a little lower.

The dang rounded lug nut took me a day and a set of drill bits to get the right wheel off. Pretty much destroyed the wheel doing so but I'm discarding them anyway.

Everything on the front end will be new when it's back together. Then I'll drop the rear diff and send it off.

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Nothing like a nice ball joint set to remove the upper and lower joints. Makes a major headache no headache at all.

This is part of an OTC master ball joint set that I have. It's tailored towards Jeeps and Dodge vehicles but will work on some other makes as well.

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I've only been working on this a little bit at a time in the evening. Got it out and on the pallet last night.

I left the lower control arms on, not voluntarily, these control arms have bolts that need to be cut on both sides of the bushing. I'm replacing all of the upper and lower arms anyway.

Getting ready to take the sawsall to them.

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Easy way to get past that pesky top nut on front TJ shocks when you're replacing them. After removing the bottom bolts and nuts just lift the shock up out of it's bottom mount and give a sharp yank out towards yourself and break that chrome moly strut shaft. Snaps quite easily.

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