Long Range Bolt Gun

NCFubar said:
On mine the barrel screws seem to like 38 in-lbs and action screws 26 in-lbs. Go on and bite the bullet and buy a torque screw driver ... it is OCD but I think it is well worth ... optics mounting is another major use.
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Been eyeing the wheeler on amazon for a while now...
 
NCFubar said:
On mine the barrel screws seem to like 38 in-lbs and action screws 26 in-lbs. Go on and bite the bullet and buy a torque screw driver ... it is OCD but I think it is well worth ... optics mounting is another major use.
Click to expand...

What was your testing process for setting the the torque on the screws individually? My wheeler will be here tomorrow..
 
Gear, if you want to go down the rabbit hole it was a real stupid matrix. First off I pillar bedded the action and had to start fresh there (I hadn’t messed with having the barrel threading yet). I started with what I felt was barely hand tighten action screws which was 20 in-lbs and moved up 1 in-lb front and back firing at least 3 sets of 5 shot groups to see how it reacted. Once I got what I believed the best action screws torque I then started on the barrel screws the same way. After I got the barrel screws set I was dumb enough to retry the action screws ... which actually did slightly change. I am not sure just how many hours I spent doing this ... but I have done almost as bad on bracketing handloads for centerfires. Some play golf to raise their blood pressure ... I screw with trying to make a .50” group shrink to a .49” group :confused:.
 
NCFubar said:
Gear, if you want to go down the rabbit hole it was a real stupid matrix. First off I pillar bedded the action and had to start fresh there (I hadn’t messed with having the barrel threading yet). I started with what I felt was barely hand tighten action screws which was 20 in-lbs and moved up 1 in-lb front and back firing at least 3 sets of 5 shot groups to see how it reacted. Once I got what I believed the best action screws torque I then started on the barrel screws the same way. After I got the barrel screws set I was dumb enough to retry the action screws ... which actually did slightly change. I am not sure just how many hours I spent doing this ... but I have done almost as bad on bracketing handloads for centerfires. Some play golf to raise their blood pressure ... I screw with trying to make a .50” group shrink to a .49” group :confused:.
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Lol ain't nobody got time for all that! I plan on separating the barreled action from the stock then setting torque on both screws to like 5 in/lbs and shoot groups and increase the torque by 5 in/lbs each time
 
hlpressley said:
After looking high, low, and even underneath a 455 Tacticool was not to be found. Since I knew I wouldn't be happy with any other 455 I have decided to wait until they surface again or I come across a used one.

In the meantime, I have no patience when I'm bored, I ordered a Mark II FV-SR. Planning to get a Boyd's stock and the DIP metal bottom right away. Have also been looking at glass and I'm thinking of trying the PA 4-14x44 or the Vortex Crossfire II 6-18. I've actually read much better reviews on the PA than the Vortex. Thoughts?
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I have the exact same setup you're going for, including the Boyd's stock and Crossfire II 6-18. Mine is still relatively new and not even completely broken in yet, I think I might have about 250 rounds through it. The Vortex does the job but I wish it had a MOA reticle instead of the generic BDC, I have no experience with the PA.

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Edit: Late to the game as usual, should have noticed this thread was several pages!
 
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I use a 20. Which seems like it is going to work just fine so far.

Need to edit this. Wrong thread. On my 22 it is a 0 base. I was thinking of my 308 which is 20.
 
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With novice research, and only 19 mils of adjustment in the scope, and a drop chart showing 7.75 mils at 200 and 14.59 at 300 with CCI SV, looks like I will need a 20 MOA to be able to perhaps dial it all. Just need to check if that will still let me zero at 50Y.
 
My DOPE with 25" Anschutz 64 MPR and Lapua Center-X (Typically 84 degrees and at least 75% Humidity)

With a 50 Meter Zero
100 Meters = 7 - 7.5 MOA or 2.07Mil - 2.2Mil
150 Meters = 17 - 17.5 MOA or 5.04Mil - 5.22Mil
200 Meters = 27 - 28 MOA or 8.00Mil - 8.30Mil
300 Meters = 43 - 46 MOA or 12.74Mil - 13.63Mil

.22LR loves Hot and Humid... the more heat and humidity, the less adjustment you will need.
If it is below 60 degrees and below 50 humidity, you will need to add more.
 
That Cabela's mat looks like a perfect fit for the truck bed! Do the darker sections get fairly hot in the sun? More relevant in the summer than now obviously.
 
Exile_D said:
That Cabela's mat looks like a perfect fit for the truck bed! Do the darker sections get fairly hot in the sun? More relevant in the summer than now obviously.
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Surprisingly it doesn't. I've had it out on the 100 degree days and haven't had an issue with it getting excessively hot. I suppose it's in the material that it's made of. Great mat!
 
Exile_D said:
That Cabela's mat looks like a perfect fit for the truck bed! Do the darker sections get fairly hot in the sun? More relevant in the summer than now obviously.
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Looks good enough to facilitate having a date on the truck bed. Goodbye astroturf
 
I wish I had a place to shoot long range.... ATM I can only stretch my 22s out to 80yds or 100yds if I want to drive the Chester.....

@hlpressley what scope is that?
 
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Flashpoint said:
What do you plan to replace it with?
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Athlon. Only because that's what I have on all of my rifles and I want to consolidate to one reticle. The PA has been great for me! I shot 3" targets Saturday and Sunday from 25 to 200 yards by dialing and holding without a single issue. It always tracked reliably and returned to zero each time. I don't necessarily think the Athlon is better, they just have more options for my other rifles.
 
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