Measuring charges faster

Namerifrats

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What's you method of measuring your charges for general shooting like factory duplicate loads. Not precision rounds. Powder measure, auto scale/dispenser, etc? I currently use a cheap Lee perfect powder measure. Then I weight every 3rd charge to watch for consistency. Usually ok by 0.2 grains + or - my target charge. I don't load high end or hot loads. Usually around the middle range of given data. For me though, measuring charges is the slowest part of my process. I'd like to speed it up a little, without just trusting a powder measure totaly. I've looked at the RCBS Lite powder dispenser/scale. Looks like it will drop an accurate charge in about 20 seconds or so. Still kinda slow.....but no real worries on being too much over or under. While it's doing it's thing I could move the previously charged case from the press to the load block and place the next case. (I load on a single stage currently) That takes a few seconds....but I'm not having to manually drop and trickle to get the charge where I need it. Then there is the thought of two of the RCBS dispensers running at the same time. They would provide charges as fast as I needed them but double the cost. What's your method? BTW, I reload for many calibers. The speeding up part is more for 9mm, 45ACP, 357 Magnum, etc.
 
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Set the measure. Run 10 or so back into the hopper, check next 5-10 if it seems stable I'll run them until I refill the hopper only weighing if something looks off. I check a few just before and after refill usually.

I have loaded thousands of rifle rounds and tens of thousands of pistol rounds this way, not one squib, not one hmm, that seemed hot or light, no surprises if I randomly chrono some. If the load was developed the accuracy remains ok. YMMV.
 
Your current powder measure should be OK...… two tenth's of a grain isn't a big deal unless it's long range precision or max charges. It only takes a couple of seconds to charge a round..... I do weigh a few charges early on to be sure my charge is consistent, but as long as everything is good.... I don't weigh anymore unless I change something or something doesn't look right (Ex.. the amount of space left in the case after charging doesn't look consistent with previous rounds).

The RCBS ChargeMaster Lite is a nice piece of equipment...… I have only used ball powder with it so for, but I trust it..... on auto mode it's usually waiting on me.
 
I get a cup that when filled hits about the middle of the range. So for 9mm between about 3.6 and 4.1gr titegroup. I do some test runs with the scale and then just start scoopin. I can do a tray of 50 rounds in no time. I can't tell the difference between this method and measuring; it's rarely over a few tenths of a grain difference. The only rounds I don't do this with are super sonic 300blk, 30-30 and 300win mag.
 
I use a Lyman 55 measure and usually once set up pretty much consistently within the .2 +- range. I try not to hurry and weigh every 10 rounds or so in a belt and suspenders kinda thing. Habit I guess. I'm not loading 1000 rounds at a time, maybe a hundred or so. I could probably go to every 20 without much concern once setup is in a groove swing,
 
I use two RCBS Chargemasters when running stick powders for large rifle. They are fast, and accurate from small charges to large. For ball powders for 300 BLK and such as that I run that RCBS measure. I run Dillon presses, so for handgun I just use the Dillon measure.

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The first thing you need to do is install a powder baffle into your measure and then only use a measure that is ALL metal with close tolerances. Be consistent in the operation of the handle and you'll discover consistent charges being dispensed....

Free powder baffle templates can be downloaded from Uncle Nick's powder Baffles.... and made from alum roof flashing or flattened soda/beer cans....
 
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I like the RCBS Uniflow but i also got good results with the PPM in the past. Why do you feel a need to check so frequently? Are you having problems bigger than the 0.2gn you mentioned?

If you want to gain trust in your measure run a test. Weigh ~25-50 throws and write them down. When you see it doesn't wander, set it and get to work loading. Then just check at the beginning and end of each session.
 
Comments from someone that did a lot of statistical process control and also weight counting as a manufacturing engineer in an earlier life. This is my overall summary since getting back into reloading and having the time, now retired, to do some tests and also have reloaded over 2500 rounds in the past year or so.

I use the RCBS uniflow. Have the typical Balance scale. Think it is Redding and was bought circa 1968.

First, I mounted the Redding scale on a separate shelf around eye level. I used a small strip of aluminum strapping and screws to hold it in place on the shelf. I put two thicknesses of duct tape under the leveling screw. With it held in place, the zero stays constant and the tape absorbs vibrations and being on an isolated shelf keep it accurate.

Next up was to experiment with my powder flow or charging techniques. BTW, I did discuss this with a buddy that did some match shooting over the years and he, independently, has been working on the same charging techniques and we both came up with the same conclusions....we are delivering MORE consistent charges.

Here are our basics....

Fill the reservoir close to the top. The more weight or mass in the reservoir, the more consistent.

Tap, using your fingers...not a hammer...the side of the reservoir about 10 times randomly around the circumference to settle or distribute the powder.

When you hold the reloading tray, or an individual shell, under the dispensing tube, LIGHTLY hold it in place. Do not force or push upward.

The charging technique it to consistently raise the lever and let it just barely touch the stop or the top. Don’t slam it up or go crazy. That gives you a more consistent fill. Then the same thing on the downstroke.

We each USED to snap the handle smartly against the top stroke...thinking that the vibration or impact would keep the powder uniform. NOPE. Just the opposite. More inconsistency.

When the level in the reservoir drops more than an inch....replenish it. I found that when it dropped around 1/2 - 3/4 inch, my results were a little better if I tapped the sides to resettle the powder. Obviously retap the sides when you add more powder. I DID disassemble the powder measure to make sure there was not any residue or build up. Cleaned all the surfaces with a soft rag (cotton T shirt).

The ONLY other comment is on the powder. Several Bullseye shooters and other competitors recommended the N-310 for 45 and the N-330 for 9mm. CFE Pistol was also recommend for both. I have loaded a variety of rifle and pistol calibers over the years. After changing my techniques and using either of these two powders, I am convinced that I have the best loads possible. For casual plinking we both chose Unique. The above tightened up our charges....so they should improve your charging accuracy regardless of powder.

NOW, if you get into competition and measure the shell capacities and throw out the highs and lows; sort bullets for weight and concentricity, digitally weigh every charge, etc......you WILL have better ammo. But for us and many competition shooters, these are the best methods.

BTW... we both weigh about every 8th to 12th charge and if you don’t keep the reservoir level consistent (within the original level....at say down an inch), your charges will lighten up. Maybe 0.1 - 0.2 gr. That might be spread over a 50 round tray....so the charges WILL lighten up as the level drops.

The ONLY other change was in our “processing”. We have started to run 200 - 300 shells through the sizing, depriming, belling and priming stages (first two dies). We store the shells (usually sorted by headstamps) in plastic jars or bags. Then when we need ammo, we just charge and seat. That allows us to focus on the accuracy.

I also found that many competitive shooters do the same.

This is our experimental results and conclusions.....others may have different opinion and results.
 
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A little late on this thread. I use an old orange Lyman #55 my dad handed down to me. It will throw perfect charges every time with most ball powder. Stick powders are another story.
 
Follow-up
Buddy made a Uncle Nicks or Nicolas powder baffle for his Redding measure. He did a lot of experimental loads. He said it took a while for the Unique to settle in. But had 0.1 accuracy. Convinced me that I needed one. I DID do some investigation and the Dillon setups come with a combo baffle. Some experienced loaders also, even it, replenish the reservoir (called a hopper) every 50 rounds.

I made up one. Used the same size “flow” cut as my buddy. It Tightened up the loads using TiteGroup and CFE and N-330. Really made a big difference. I have an older RCBS Uniflow ll measure. It has the 1.75” hopper. The newer RCBS, I think, can be bought with a small and regular or maybe large cylinder. Bottom line, the only issue that I have run into is that some light loads under 4 gr with the N series powder will cause the cylinder to have some resistance.

But....I tried it with Unique. I did NOT get the same or improved consistency. I removed the baffle and filled the reservoir to about half full. When I would tap or bump the side of the hopper or reservoir about every 8th charge and replenish after a drop of 3/4”, I got way better results. Almost as good as my buddy.

I DO recommend making one of the baffles. Took all of 10 minutes. I have a “pick” for mine so if I want to run Unique or maybe some. Red or Green Dot, I will not take the time to get it settled and use the above technique.
 
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